h67st

It's hard to get much for a B model that's not running and has rust in the cab. Those are the two price-breakers.

I will say this, the seller is pretty honest when he says it's in very rough condition. The cab is pretty well ate up, and I imagine the rest of it is similar. https://www.ebay.com/itm/154560492971?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3Dc3ec7c72f4b64bad8eb6a9f986dabc12%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D8%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D224559542740%26itm%3D154560492971%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2334524&_trksid=p2334524.c100667.m2042&autorefresh=true

Looks like some good work went into this truck, but I just can't get past the paint job. It's on a Winnebago chassis, located in Florida. Starting bid $26,000. https://www.ebay.com/itm/224559542740?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

And the chimp could probably drive without slides and a wife beater shirt on.

Tax free!! Man, Swish, you are generous!

I would think if you're willing to drive a B model, air conditioning would be the least of your worries.

There's two advantages to longer wheelbase-- better ride, easier handling. Shorter wheelbase means you have to be more attentive to the steering wheel to keep 'er going straight on the highway. Of course, then you have a larger turning radius.

I use masking tape myself--hard to see markings on bare steel (dark color). Pencil shows up real well on masking tape (light color). I never had to do this when I was young.

He'll be able to take care of himself while others are throwing their hands up wondering what to do.

No, can't tell from the photos.

Really nice looking B model, too bad it's wrecked. They're asking $16,800, it's in Illinois. https://www.ebay.com/itm/203512643423?ViewItem=&item=203512643423&vxp=mtr

Does the hole for the rad cap look factory-made?

Agree with Joey...look at those check valves. My hand primer was sucking air, caused mine to lose prime overnight.

Agree with Joey...look at those check valves. My hand primer was sucking air, caused mine to lose prime overnight.

I believe JB is correct on that.

Swish, I never thought of greasing the pins at each lock but it sure makes sense! I did that on my H, now I just need to get it driveable so I can try it.

So, if it sets the spring brakes, why does it say "not for parking"?

Swishy, that flip lever valve you showed is made by Bendix, they call it a TC-4 (part number 282368 or 282382) and they say it's for controlling the spring brakes. I've got a question...this valve was in one of my trucks, I didn't chase the air lines to see what it does. Can someone tell me what it's for?

In Atlanta, starting bid $4,500. Looks pretty rough but you sure ain't gonna find many of these for sale! https://www.ebay.com/itm/144070295088?hash=item218b423e30:g:M4IAAOSwkFBgwUsD&vxp=mtr

I used the schematic in this Bendix brake handbook to help with plumbing the system. I'm using Bendix valves because they're very common and cheap. dcweasel is correct about the anti-compounding, especially if you have aluminum spiders like mine. I used a QR-1C quick release valve on my rear axle to achieve the anti-compounding. For my spring brakes, I used Haldex GC2024 which have a #20 service side and a #24 spring side. They are $92.00 with free shipping from Finditparts.com. They are adequate for a bobtail hobby truck, not sure about hauling freight with them. I rotated my spiders one bolt hole to get them away from the frame rail, but they are only about 3/4" away from the 10:00-20 rims (you'd have more clearance if you went with tubeless or 10:00-22). 1837032478_BendixAirBrakeHandbook2002.pdf

I tried to move mine with rear driveshaft removed, no go.

CAC = charge air cooler (aftercooler). Before you start changing expensive parts, I'd check the transfer pump and check valves real close.

Snowman, that is a fine-looking Ford. Eastbound and down!!

There's a lot of real estate on that truck until you get inside the cab!!

The colors are great, I like the contrasting 5th wheel.