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h67st

Pedigreed Bulldog
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Everything posted by h67st

  1. h67st
    Saw this pic on the web...the guy said the driver went over 400 miles on the Aussie Outback like this. What a mess!
  2. h67st
    Looks like you did a real nice job of masking off the non-paint stuff...can't wait to see the finished product!
  3. h67st
    Jim posted a lot of great pictures over the years and he had a lot of good info on the old Macks.
  4. h67st
    You could take the lift pump off and see if the check valves look good.
  5. h67st
    On mine, the front mount bracket is split with 2 bolts holding it together so you can set the engine in it.
  6. h67st
    Yesterday I went to install the front pulley hub. I bought a 12" piece of 7/8" all-thread from McMaster-Carr for $5.00 to press it on with (worked great). However, I should have read the repair manual before I put the front cover on--turns out you're supposed to use a special collar to line up the cover with the crank. I took the cover loose and eyeballed it to get it centered, we'll see how accurate my eyes are. I wish Mack would have doweled it at the factory like they do the flywheel housing.
  7. h67st
    The reason I say put a gauge on it is because when I was a mechanic we found fuel supply lines collapsing on the inside, tank vents not working right, and stuff floating in the tank that would get sucked up against the standpipe. Any of these could cause an intermittent power problem.
  8. h67st
    Man, you're really moving along! It's looking great. Where did you get the new latches? I could use a pair of those.
  9. h67st
    I assume you changed all your fuel filters? Did you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? It would help to put a gauge in the cab so when it acts up you can see if the fuel pressure is good. I don't know what the pressure should be but one of the Mack guys may be able to chime in on that.
  10. h67st
    If it was in AZ for a long time, maybe no rust. Here in the midwest we dream of old Macks with no rust.
  11. h67st
    I found a couple of NOS markers that are identical to KD517s but sold under Napa brand name. They have rubber bases that are almost flat on the bottom to fit the L and H cab but take the regular 517 lens and cover. I'd rather have the metal bases but if I don't find any then I'll use these.
  12. h67st
    My truck has a Tu-Flo 500, I googled the part number (227326) from the tag and found highwayandheavyparts.com had one reman for $480 plus core charge so I bought it. I found one at a Mack dealer also, believe it's a new one but they wanted $1,000 for it. I got the gaskets from Barry and a water pump from John Chalmers.
  13. h67st
    The only note I have is about an "olive" color, it's Kirker 811. I'm sorry I don't have anything on a beige or brown. What are the part numbers you have?
  14. h67st
    Doesn't look rusty...it would be a good project.
  15. h67st
    That's going to sound good!
  16. h67st
    I think I have a code at work, I can check in the next day or two.
  17. h67st
    No, I don't know any details on them.
  18. h67st
    The Pete went for $17,600...that's a lot but it is a rare truck, especially this far from the left coast. The KW went for $7,150.
  19. h67st
    That was a Craigslist ad, it's not there any more.
  20. h67st
    The correct Mack interior green is Axalta (Dupont) 44419. Here are some other codes that have been posted here on BMT: Omni(PPG) Acrylic Enamel #MAE 45735 Mack part #312sx19p2 NAPA 42198 Sherwin Williams B7-42198-00-Y
  21. h67st
    Glad you saved it! It looks great, and that gravel pit is a really nice background for the photos.
  22. h67st
    I took my clutch to the local clutch shop and surprisingly (to me and them both), they had one on the shelf. For anyone out there that has a 15" clutch with a 2" shaft, the part number is CD-15200VBS.
  23. h67st
    Looks like you get to do most of the dirty work.
  24. h67st
    That motor sounds good.
  25. h67st
    I got to enjoy putting the rear crank seal in today...I've never done one of these lead wire things. The manual says to use a wood dowel to roll the wire into the groove, lotsa luck with that! I ended up using a big wrist pin to force the thing down into the groove. Hopefully it doesn't leak.

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