Jump to content

h67st

Pedigreed Bulldog
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,320

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    30

 Content Type 

Everything posted by h67st

  1. h67st
    What I've seen done before is to rinse down from the top with mineral spirits or other petroleum solvent. If it's dirty enough you could even soak in a bucket or cutoff barrel of solvent. Blow dry or allow to air dry.
  2. h67st
    This truck is definitely the nicest build I've seen, I've enjoyed watching the progress.
  3. h67st
    McMaster Carr didn't have anything close to this size. I should have called Watts with KKergall's part number but I had already searched ebay for "throwout bearing return spring" and found a guy with springs for old Massey Ferguson tractors...similar size so I bought one. It works well. I stabbed the trans to the engine, it went in easy the first time so I must have done something wrong. I'm still waiting for the pump and injectors from the rebuild shop, as soon as I get them I can paint this and put it into the chassis.
  4. h67st
    Volvo virus.
  5. h67st
    My understanding is that since this is a dry liner engine, you can do that...right? I used to work on Cats (wet liners) and we had to keep the SCA level up or the liners would pit and eventually eat a hole through the wall.
  6. h67st
    Does anyone know the part number or someplace to get a new spring? I have one but it's worn out. It's about 1-3/8" long, 3/4" diameter, and .060" wire diameter.
  7. h67st
    Weren't the first Paccar engines a lot of trouble?
  8. h67st
    I like that one.
  9. h67st
    When I grew up in the 60s and 70s in Ohio we called them spoke wheels, and any disc wheel we called budds. You're right--it just depends on where you live, there are different names here and there.
  10. h67st
    I get that some people think these old trucks should be kept historical, but there are thousands of B models out there and I'd much rather see someone fix one up like you're doing than to see it sit out and rust into the ground. It's really neat to see one on the road and like you say if it's driveable then it will be on the road more often.
  11. h67st
    They're just trying to get other dog to take their picture.
  12. h67st
    I bought a 66 Fairlane years ago with a spun bearing, it had sucked up a chunk of brittle valve seal into the oil pump and twisted the oil pump hex shaft in two.
  13. h67st
    Saw this pic on the web...the guy said the driver went over 400 miles on the Aussie Outback like this. What a mess!
  14. h67st
    Looks like you did a real nice job of masking off the non-paint stuff...can't wait to see the finished product!
  15. h67st
    Jim posted a lot of great pictures over the years and he had a lot of good info on the old Macks.
  16. h67st
    You could take the lift pump off and see if the check valves look good.
  17. h67st
    On mine, the front mount bracket is split with 2 bolts holding it together so you can set the engine in it.
  18. h67st
    Yesterday I went to install the front pulley hub. I bought a 12" piece of 7/8" all-thread from McMaster-Carr for $5.00 to press it on with (worked great). However, I should have read the repair manual before I put the front cover on--turns out you're supposed to use a special collar to line up the cover with the crank. I took the cover loose and eyeballed it to get it centered, we'll see how accurate my eyes are. I wish Mack would have doweled it at the factory like they do the flywheel housing.
  19. h67st
    The reason I say put a gauge on it is because when I was a mechanic we found fuel supply lines collapsing on the inside, tank vents not working right, and stuff floating in the tank that would get sucked up against the standpipe. Any of these could cause an intermittent power problem.
  20. h67st
    Man, you're really moving along! It's looking great. Where did you get the new latches? I could use a pair of those.
  21. h67st
    I assume you changed all your fuel filters? Did you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? It would help to put a gauge in the cab so when it acts up you can see if the fuel pressure is good. I don't know what the pressure should be but one of the Mack guys may be able to chime in on that.
  22. h67st
    If it was in AZ for a long time, maybe no rust. Here in the midwest we dream of old Macks with no rust.
  23. h67st
    I found a couple of NOS markers that are identical to KD517s but sold under Napa brand name. They have rubber bases that are almost flat on the bottom to fit the L and H cab but take the regular 517 lens and cover. I'd rather have the metal bases but if I don't find any then I'll use these.
  24. h67st
    My truck has a Tu-Flo 500, I googled the part number (227326) from the tag and found highwayandheavyparts.com had one reman for $480 plus core charge so I bought it. I found one at a Mack dealer also, believe it's a new one but they wanted $1,000 for it. I got the gaskets from Barry and a water pump from John Chalmers.
  25. h67st
    The only note I have is about an "olive" color, it's Kirker 811. I'm sorry I don't have anything on a beige or brown. What are the part numbers you have?

BigMackTrucks.com

BigMackTrucks.com is a support forum for antique, classic and modern Mack Trucks! The forum is owned and maintained by Watt's Truck Center, Inc. an independent, full service Mack dealer. The forums are not affiliated with Mack Trucks, Inc.

Our Vendors and Advertisers

Thank you for your support!

Mack Related Links

Popular links

BMT Forum Logo

HTML tutorial
×
×
  • Create New...