GEOD998

BC Mack, I'm glad to see you are well on your way to being up and running-great pics too. Amazing how that little bit of rust causes so much work. I never did get around to fixing mine. I injured my shoulder ,which put that project (and many others)on the back burner...still trying to catch up. BTW-the easy access with that cab over is kinda like cheating to us guys who have to do it all on our backs -George

thanx for that info Maddog!

Dupont Imron is great stuff indeed-or it was last time I used it ...sure it still is. As I understand it Magnums were painted with it from the factory. Black metalic body and black on the frame. If I remember right, back in the day,there was an optional hardener you could add to it also,dont know if it got DEP blackballed or not . tippi98custom with that treatment,your frame should last forever.

that aint bad..not bad atol-thanx

thunderdog-did you get em from you friendly nieghborhood Mack dealer?hate to be nosey(not really) ,but, how much they set ya back?-ballpark figure......thanx

figures-thats the only piece I need

anyone know if superliner headlight bezels are still "get-able"?

very nice upgrade. They arent as cool,but I thought you could still get the originals from signal stat. I havent bought any for a few years tho-

After blasting, if needed, I've used the whole POR15 process when doing car and truck frames and underbodys. The stuff aint cheap,but it holds up really well -its very hard and very flexible when you use the whole system. You can topcaot with anything you want-but I suggest doing so soon after priming,so you dont have to sand as much( thus losing a few mils of protection and busting your hump to do so) I've never had a problem,and I have stuff out there working and abused thats at least 10 years since redo They have the wash,prep,primer and paint. I'm fairly certain they have a couple filler products for pits also. Just make sure to use respirator..even if spraying just a little outside-I've had bad experiences when I didnt-hack,hack. Check em out online-----George

good pics of a bad situation-I will let you know of any "breaking" news

Really?-I never woulda guessed Next time I get out that way ,I'll try to snap some photos.

also know a guy who has a clean 4wd Oshkosh single axle dump w/15 ft plow. really low miles-if interested I can get specs. I know nothing about them,but, when you're in it you can look down into my superliner like looking into a vette when in an F250. I was thinking about buying it. I couldnt trust meself in rush hour traffic when driving it tho-- pretty sure its a 57 redone and retagged by oshkosh in 77- think it has some kinda crazy twin overhead cam CAT in it.

not sure--did you want a U mdl single axle dump? or you wanna go with a 4wd ford? A friend has a U. I can get specs if interested

@ theakerstwo- I appreciate your input and I was thinkin the same thing at first,but as BC Mack said the access hole is so small and located so far to the rear on this tranny,I dont think it can be done. I will look at it again tho. I've done similar things on fullers and even other mack trannys, but this is the most ignorant setup I've ever had the displeasure to work on. @BC Mack-whatever you do-dont rely on stalling it ( I have found its not easy to do with that motor). Make sure your fuel shut off is adjusted well and everything on the cable is tightened down.You tend to pull on it harder when a wall is getting closer than you do at the end of a normal days running . I'm going to try to get mine out onto the pavement with a little more "runway" and try a higher gear and more go pedal action. I have ,however, already started to dig out the stuff we use to pull trannys. It would be real nice if we could slide it back enuff without having to lower it down. Even better if I didnt have to do any of it. Keep us updated-I will do the same. Good Luck to you-be safe-George

I've been tryin to wrap my head around this clutch, and if I'm thinkin right(first time for everything:)) no matter what type of clutch configuration is in there(single plate,double plate,whatever) ,the only thing that would cause this problem is the front clutch plate being stuck to the flywheel-right??? I think I'm gonna beat on the P.P.a little more ,then, I'm gonna take 'er for a ride...maybe up and down my hill. Again I ask-Anyone know what the 4 T-60?torx bolts reccessed into holes in the back(trans side) of the P.P.are for??? I see the adj for wear bolt(5/8 head spring loaded)and the 2 1/2head bolts that hold the adj do-hicky on,but the torx bolts have me perplexed...which is usually a sign to leave them alone...if I was smart...which I aint -thanx to all for the advice thus far

I'm wondering if a pnuematic de-scaling tool would help? I'm thinkin if I only loaded 1-2 needles, I may be able to get them in between the flywheel and clutch plate. With the angle and distance,you almost need a tool with "slim jim" flexibility, and that may fit the bill. I see harbor frieght has the small one on sale for 29 bucks,so it'd be a cheap gamble.I'd like to have one for the old cars and trucks anyway. Anyone ever try it ???

BTW-I'm asuming the bell housing is bolted to the block internally?as in remove the tranny,pressure plate,clutch then bellhousing bolts are accessable-cause I cant see any bolts between the two of them.all the tranny bolts are easy to get to,but that will be the only easy part of a tranny pull. I was thinking if I could sneak the bell housing back a tad,I might get a peak-but no joy there either

84 superdog----yep-the t.o. brg and fork is moving all the way back-can even see the levers and springs moving in the rear of the pressure plate. On this pressure plate there are 4 torx head bolts recessed around the housing-along with the single normal "adjust for wear" 5/8 bolt. Does anyone know what those do? I was figuring if I could back all adjustments out,it might give it a little more room to move when I get to beatin on it. I know adjustments shouldnt have any effect when the clutch is depressed ,but, if rust is bonding stuff together I figure it cant hurt....any thoughts? BC Mack-one helluva piece of engineering -eh? lots of places for an access hole that would give a great view of the clutch plate- flywheel- but no hole

unfortunately the access pnl on this bellhousing is under the t.o.brg and about the size of a post card . The angle and clearance to get something between the clutch and flywheel is a real b@st@rd. I'm tryin to make a tool,but it aint lookin good. - wishing for my E-6 and 12915 roadranger right about now ------- thanx

Anyone have any tips for getting a clutch to free up? My 85 superliner V8 with 10 speed mack tranny just doesnt wanna let go and there sure ain't alotta room to work on it. Help! please. I really dont feel like pulling this tranny. I'm finally at the point where I'll try anything short of that to get this bugger loose. Thanks --George

@LEVERSOLE- are you gonna post them?

is there a record of cab numbers? I'm far from an expert on such things,but, as with the previous owners of my Magnum, these folks probably didnt/dont know what they had/have,so changing stuff wouldnt have been a big deal. With that low mileage, I would think the interior would have survived.

thats good to know-thanks much

thanks guys. I hear that JC Taylor is no longer writing policies for antique"big trucks" but I will try anyway. I dont know about Grundy. I have an app from Gulfway here,just was nervous about how to proceed,the woman on the phone wasnt lookin to have any conversation,just get my email and send out the forms. As I said in the OP,not sure how the ins.cos. look at such things...one would assume that as long as you're paying premiums and not making claims they would love ya, as most ins.cos. do.

OK it's been too long since I asked a stupid question-so here goes. Has anyone here tried to get insurance for an antique truck while you were still restoring it? Does Gulfway(or anyone else) understand this process? My problem is, I now have rearraged things here so I can get this truck into the shop most of the time,but, as soon as I back it out -so I can do other things ,its illegal without plates/insurance ,so I need to remedy that. The truck is perfectly fine "work truck quality"as it is,but its definately no show truck right now, it has cosmetic issues that I intend to fix and get it to "show" condition. I'm not sure how to value the truck for insurance purposes. To be honest, I'm not even worried about comprehensive at this time,altho it would be good to have some. I worry about how the ins. co. will look at my application- if I go too low they may think "we dont insure junk"-if I go the 20-25K route they may think me crazy by thier criteria. I dont know,I've never dealt with this type of insurance before. If anyone has any experience with such things how about giving me a little insight into the inner workings of an ins. cos. mind. Thanks alot-George