steelman

Macks are my thing, but i have a few IHC's. 1917 K, 1924 modell 33 and 63, about 1927/8 model 93, 1965 loadmaster (i believe) with a detroit v6 and allison automatic (former us govt truck). Also remnants of a transtar cabover (cummings and tranny-runs). I sold several KB8 and 9's a couple years ago.

Sorry for the late reply. I just saw this. Phil Baumgarten had very high quality reproductions of cab plates, radiatot badges and other items made which he sold to collectors and hobbiest such as myself who owned and restored older Macks. These were 1920's, 30's, 40's and 50's. B model hood and radiator tags were about the newest items he had made. He was very active in the old truck hobby, and quite active in the ATHS. He had moved to Florida, and died about 20 years ago. Very nice fellow and always ready to help anyone. All of the remaining stock was sold to someone who I do not remember. The radiator tag you have was used on the AB Macks from about 1924 on. It may have been used on some other models as well. Phil told me he had them made in Tiawan by a very good company , and he was very careful to be sure the quality was excellent. Not long before he died, he told me the demand for the older items was drying up, and it was getting harder to put together the minimum size orders necessary to have them reproduced. They show up for sale from time to time on ebay, where they sell very quickly. Steelman

That works. I worked a number of years for Dow Chem before starting my own steel fabrication shop. We regularly worked on tanks that had contained very explosive materials. They had protocols to follow which included cleaning and steam clean, sniffing with meter before hot work (welding/cutting),etc. Safety first, always. I would use CO2 or argon bled from a weld bottle to do what TJC transport spoke of on small tanks (50 gal+/-) if i could not find dry ice. Now days, my insurance company won't let us work on any tank that held a flammable material, or even weld on a gasoline powered vehicle.

The serial number of your truck indicates it is a five ton. Serial numbers 10,313,001 to 10,314.000 were built between October 1926 and April 1927. This puts your truck being built in the June/July 1927 time period. The removable head engines, also called high hat engines were introduced in 1928. Your truck should have originally come with a jughead engine. Hope this helps. Steelman

A bar is one barometric pressure, which at sea level is 14.7 psi. To convert bar to psi, you simply multiply 14.7 times the bar number. Therefor (2.5) x (14.7)= 36.75 psi.

Not in North Carolina, but not too far away in Richmond, Virginia, Thurston Spring is an excellent shop that has been here forever. They can do most anything including making new springs. Probably less than 125 miles from Wilmington.

Mad dog, Give me some time (4+/- weeks) to finish recovery, and I will try to get you what I can off my truck. I had a bad accident, four surgeries, and am now recovering (last nine weeks). Right now I cannot even get to my shop to take a picture. I am going crazy sitting still, but nurses and physical therapy just about every day for a little longer. Send me a PM and I will send info as soon as I can. Carey

I would be I interested I the cab and doors. Hood also if available. Could pickup with gooseneck trailer or rollback if you have a way to load. Please send me pm. Thanks. Carey Leitch, Fredericksburg, Va. (50 miles south of wash., DC)

Do you have access to a good bearing,seal supply House? Given shaft sizes, depth of seal and type of seal (which should be apparent to a good supplier), and you should be back in business in a day or two.

Mad dog, The little B I have is painted Mack green like Tackaberry's. George sold it to a fellow on Cape Cod who had it for years. He had an electric over hydraulic eight foot landscapers dump body put on the rear. He had a little accident with it and dented the front fenders and radiator surround. Sent it back to George to repair, put a patch panel on the bottom of the passenger door and repaint. At some point he decided to sell it, and I bought it and brought it home last year from Maine. I pulled the dump off and have a stepside body going on it like Tack's and the red one. I am repainting it and freshening it up. It runs well (5.9 Cummins and automatic) and George put a over,under and direct brownie box behind the auto. You can pull stumps (or trailers) in underdrive, and in overdrive it will really cruise. I am 6', 265 pound, but fit in it easier than I do in a regular B model. Very comfortable, and VERY COOL looking. People notice it. I plan on making it my daily driver after repaint. Re the fenders, he made a lot of cuts and fitting to make them look correct for the smaller tires. The cab is narrowed 4 inches, and the radiator shroud is also narrowed and chopped a few inches. The two front running lights were eliminated when narrowed. The truck is amazingly well proportioned, like 5/8 scale. George did a wonderful job building these. He told me he did six Macks and two Pete's. I am recovering from surgery right now, but would be glad to share Info on it after I recover. Send me a PM with your email..I have an integral sleeper I wanted to modify and put on another little B. The cab is too far gone to restore, but I looked at stretching it and creating a four door. I have the chassis and everything ready to go. The amount of money and time it takes is substantial.. I could probably finish it if I live to 150 years.

Sent you an email with my wish list thank you.

The red B model, like some others mentioned, was built by George Sprowl in Maine 20/25 years ago. They were built on Ford one ton frames with 6bt Cummings engines. The cab, fenders and cowl were cut down to make them look appropriately to scale. I am lucky to have one of them, and love it. He really did an amazing job. I looked at building my own for years, and it is a lot of work. I also looked at dt360 and dt466 engines (I have some of both), and the power, size and parts available with a Cummins 6bt make them hard not to consider. Look at the horsepower, torque, weight and maintenance cost of a full size Mack power plant, not to mention fuel consumption in what amounts to a pickup truck, and you might start to rethink this. I looked at Mack, Ford, Chevy and Dodge frames, all of the power plants noted above, as well as other issues. There are folks on this site who have built nice B model pickups using 3/4 ton, one ton and full size (class 5-8) frames with gas and diesel power. It might be worthwhile to reach out to them before you get in the deep end of the pond.

I agree with the 30 or 40 weight engine oil, but do not agree with non detergent. When I started in the hobby 56 years ago I was told detergent oil would wipe out Babbitt bearings, etc. 56 years later, and a mechanical Engineering degree , I have used detergent oil, and it keeps everything cleaner, and have had no bearing break down. No more sludge in the bottom of the sump, etc. The additives I do agree with. In the transmission/ rear end (shaft drive), I use 75w, 90w or 75w-90w oil. Same for steering gear. The magneto wants light weight oil like sewing machine oil (3in 1 oil), and the manual says about four drops. Spring hangers and Clevis want engine oil, and chassis wants grease. I have used marine waterproof grease for chassis as it doesn't want to melt away it seems. Just my 2 cents worth.

Mike Harbison is correct. Mack has built their own engines from the beginning. Mack Juniors and Seniors were Mack designed and built. Being interested in early Macks for the last 55+ years, I have run into many "experts" that called Mack part of IHC and other such rubbish because of the corporate name, International Motor Co. Take a look at the book "Mack" by John Montville someday. Came out in 1974, but they are around. Very well researched and written by a very nice fellow.