Timmyb

There were a few sections of the chassis that had a bit of growth so we thought we would attack it and try clean it up while we are doing it up. It didn't look so bad, but when we pulled it apart looks a bit worse then I thought. Anyway, I've been working on this for the past 2 days, I'll keep the pics coming as I continue.

I noticed a difference between mine and yours. I have a tab on the front to prevent any accidental uncoupling. It's attached by a chain to the handle. They are really simple design (I like simple things) and shouldn't give you too many dramas. If you uncouple a fair bit give it a bit of grease on the block the that locks the jaws.

So what's the story with your one? What problems is it having?

This looks like it operates on the same principal as the k-hitch ones we use down here in Australia. If it does, then there is a block that slides down between the jaws once they lock around the pin. Once again, if it does use the same design as the k-hitch ones then there is no adjustment but it's a simple rebuild, only 3 parts. Sorry I can't help with what make it is.

If it's a 4v em6 then it's a low revving engine I'm pretty sure (but correct me if I'm wrong). From what I've read they put out nearly as much torque as an e7 400 so they aren't too bad. I have a e6 300 but it's only a 2v and makes 300hp at 2100 rpm. I've only ever drove a few Mack's, and not your type of engine but mack are built to work. The first mack I drove was empty and I thought it was a slow old thing. But loaded up with 25ton of rio bar and it pulled no differently. I'd have a stab in the dark and say if your engine is running right, it's worth sticking with!

You can buy these black box looking things on the net. They have "audio amp" wrote on the side. It plugs between the speed sensor on the back of the gear box and the computer and changes the pulses. Not sure if they work on mack but my brothers use them on cat and cummins. You can adjust the dial so your trip computer will show up what ever speed you like, for when Mr police man wants to plug in to your rig. I can dig up more info if you like?

Thanks for that keg1, so that's all you changed? The bloke I spoke to is trying to sell me the linkage arms that go under the dash also. Not sure exactly what the watts kit consists of?

Just throwing a few ideas around regarding converting an R model over to electric wipers. We have a 1990 model valueliner which came from the factory with electric wipers. Same set up as air except an electric motor instead of air one. But when I talked to my local mack bloke I was told it was different and I'd have to buy the complete system. Over $1000! Found some kits on eBay to convert older cars to electric. Wonder if you could use such a kit on an R model. This one is for a Chevy or GMC truck. $130 roughly. If the swipe/arc of the wiper blade isn't right perhaps redrilling the crank on the spline of the motor will fix that? Any ideas on if this will work or not will be great. Am I missing something?

Yeah thanks for your input Joe. It wouldn't be doing it day in day out, but rather setting it up for the days when it's needed. We only have one other mack to compare it too, which has an e7 400, 12speed and 4.17 rears. It's pulls 42.5ton (85,000lbs) quite well. Was thinking (or hoping) that extra gears and and lower diff gears would make the difference.

I'm considering doing this as well. I have a 2v e6 300, high reving engine not a maxidyne. It's matched up with a mack 10 speed and 4.42 rears. When the truck is finished and rego'd it will be pulling 50ton or 100,000lbs so I'd like a few extra gears to keep the engine in the usable power range. Also with the double over drive eatons it will lower my cruise rpm at 100km/h from 1800 to 1700. Would like to hear from anyone with a double overdrive eaton and how it pulls after the swap.

Hi Mr Black. I'm also from Aus and I agree it seem a few people seem to swap it out. Get a price from your local mack dealer to see what a remanufactured box is worth. I suspect it may be a price thing for most people. Let me know what you find out, as I have inquired about an 18speed eaton and would like to know what a mack box will cost.

Superdog405, you literally had me laughing out loud. Lol, I like your view on things. But hey, you gave it a go right!

So just to update on this, under the tank straps has started to rust. Cleaned it up and it's pitted the steel a bit. Anyone know what thickness the steel used in tese tanks are? Anyway I'm not going to cut corners, the end will be coming off and an internal inspection done. Fingers crossed all goes well. I appreciate all the feed back. Regards Tim.

Yeah it's a steel tank, and it will be painted afterwards so using body filler to finish it off isn't a drama. We have owned the truck for a few years but it was purchased off my uncle. The RHS tank has had metal strips welded under the tank straps where it would have rusted/corroded away. So I'll be sure to check this tank out, thanks for the heads up. Cutting the end off would surely work... It's a bit beyond my skill level so I'll try the other methods first I think!

Thanks guys... I like the idea of pressurising the tank. Gearhead, is the pin gun method similar to a slide hammer? A combination of all your suggestions might work well... I'll definitely keep you guys posted. Thanks for your input.

This is an otherwise straight fuel tank. It's let down by this one, rather decent size dent. Just after some options on how to remove it... I know I could just bog it up, and that will be my last resort. But was hoping for some more suggestions, so hit me guys!

We gave one that's the same. Left side lower than right side. Our truck is an Australian truck, so driver is on right hand side, and we have an air starter tank on the right hand side. Both fuel tanks are the same size, yet still the left has sagged despite more weight being on the right. I suspect a lame spring, as the shackle seems to be on a greater angle.

I agree with most of the above posts. Machine Polish is best, but YouTube has taught me a lot. But on our trailers we run machined rims... And to clean them I use soapy steel wool. Makes them look really cleanly and shiney, and the water beads on them like they've just been polished. It takes about 5 mins a rim, and costs bugger all. But don't use it if your after a polished look!

There are some great tips on YouTube for polishing. I would practice on an old piece or a bit that won't be seen before jumping in. In my opinion, aluminium is sorta like paint. If your gonna use sand paper be careful cause fine lines/marks will show up in finished product. Oh, and it can be a dirty job!

I used to drive an old truck with air ride cab. Ride height valve was never hooked up and it was rough as! When I installed a new one it was like a completely different truck. Double check the valve. Also when I did mine there were instant response valves and delayed response valves. I went with an instant response one. Hope that helps some.