Noid93

I guessing if you had bad exhaust flex pipe, you have a bad pipe elsewhere. Its faily common to have leaks right by the heavy steel clamps that hold the pipe to the frame.

So you say 1) True 2) True 3) True 4) True 5) True 6) ?????? Any idea what the static timing is on a 454 or a 427? I do have a blixxton powerbox adding a little extra fuel to this thing, and would like to time it like a higher HP engine?

I guess I laid it out in that fashion, but no. I'm so curios as to the exact funcion of this thing, and the principles behind timing and smoke and a diesel engine.

i have seen alot of walking beams with missing bump stops. The front one especially would cause the issue you speak of. Usually if the U joints are being streched beyond their limit, you will see marks on the yokes where the yokes have been touching. If you have half round joints( two caps have caps on the end with hex bolt holding them, two caps are held in by straps with 12 point bolts), the 12 point bolts will have the heads smashed in some fasion. Each series of joints have a particular angle limits, but im guessing you have 1810 or maybe 1760 as an intermediate shaft and 23 -30 degrees is acceptable when your talking 13 to 18 inches center of joint to center of joint. Check this out http://www2.dana.com/pdf/IJ900.pdf

Just had my Vmac II checked out for a few issues like a sticky rack, truck would kill at stop signs and cut out in the middle of a light or heavy pull. Just got pump back, need to set timing, valve cover say 6 degrees BTDC #1. And im thinking, " if i set this thing at 6 degrees BTDC, it shouldnt smoke that bad at startup like the Vmac 1 & 2 do?" What does the 20 degree econovace on the Vmac 2 do exactly. Is it all advance or does it also retard timing Follow me and reply to confirm or deny 1)More advance gives more time for a shot of diesel to burn in the cylinder, which equals less smoke, higher cylinder pressure, less bottom end feel(torque). TRUE/FALSE 2) Less advance gives you more smoke, lower cylinder pressure, bettter "seat of the pants" feel or torque, higher EGT due to unburt fuel and less air exchage (lower rpm generally) TRUE/FALSE 3) The mack Econovance system take oil pressure to advance the timing for a smooth idle? (this causes the smoke at startup?) TRUE/FALSE 4) The Econovance system only adds to the Advance(not retarding) of the pump, (6 degrees static plus 20 Econo = up to 26 degress in the proper situations) TRUE/FALSE if false, explain 5) The static time this pump to 6 degrees, is too shallow for a clean/smoke free start up and it requires more advance to run smooth at idle. TRUE/FALSE 6) If 5 is true, the econovance adds aprox _____? degrees of advance at idle? Thanks in Econvance NOID93

How bout a reputation bump mower man(i've never got one).... Thanks Gentlemen

Overhauls are usually only required if the cylinder protrusion above the deck isnt high enough. Low cylinder height doesnt seal the head gasket properly, and can cause premature failure of head gasket. If you have good protrusion, good cross hatching on cylinder walls, throw two new heads on for good measure(yours are probably cracked anyway and the valves are tired and springs are weak), 6 injectors if they havent been serviced recently ($90 a pop, thats cheap) and a head gasket and out the door it goes for $6500 if done at a dealer. My 97 E7 had 780-820,000 miles on it when the head gasket went and i had $6200 into all this and a water pump. Cylinders were up, walls looked great, and it didnt use more than a gallon of oil on 10,000 miles. I got 860 on it now and i sure as hell dont regret not doing a full overhaul. When i priced an overhaul at the time i did the head gasket, it was $14-16,000. I saved $10,000. I belive that overhauls are only nessesary if you have failure in the cylinder, rods, or bearings. A bad head gasket only requires a gasket and heads as long as the cylinders have not settled. E7 engines that have been taken care of should go a million miles or more as long as there is no catastrophic failure elesware. Excessive blow by and oil consumption or traces of metals or soot in oil analysis a good indicator of tired rings i.e. cylinder packs. Hope this helps

It appears a new oil pump would be needed with this shaft also, based on an issue that these shafts had with oil pump drive gear.. http://hr.mckenzietank.com/maint/Bulletins/45-sb219009.pdf I went ahead and had a keyway machined into it, and plan on using an extreem mating compound to mate the two parts together. There is still a very minor interference fit yet, so i belive this should hold. Im not a huge fan of welding a shaft that hard and tempered. One would think a keyway with a minor interferenc fit, plus the compound to keep the gear from walking off the shaft, and the air compressor coupler is right there, so it cant go anywhere..(i hope)

VIN 072852 - 97 CH613 I wont put a used shaft in for fear of this same scenario. Either way, if i cannot get a new one, i'm going to modify this, or another used one.

So, air compressor quits working the other night. Haul truck home, Did some reading her on BMT, tore into it today, and i have the same issue as gambi80 and others... Press fit shaft on the rear end of shaft has spun on the shaft. Here is the kicker, NO PARTS IN NORTH AMERICA OR WAIT TILL OCTOBER TO MFG MORE!!!! So i propose to you, what is the correct fix now; 1) Weld gear on the end of shaft 2) Half moon key shaft 3) Drill and tap a slot above key for set screw to prevent walking the gear off the end 3) Re-create tolerances like you would on a crankshaft(weld it up, grind it down) 4) Straight keyway 5) (place your idea here) Any combo of the above?

Which bolts do i take out, the four that go in vertically on the block that attaches to the accesory drive? And i belive i need a gasket too?

Just reading some other econovance posts and i see there are some screens in the econovance block. My truck seems to take FOR EVER to clear up in the morning. Just replaced braided line that feeds oil to it. I am wondering if these screens could be the culprit. What is the original purpose for these, and is it possible that they are acting as an orfice and not imediately allowing oil to get to my econovance solenoid? Are there any reasons NOT to remove them? Please tell me more.... 97 CH613 400(+30% w/ blixxton box),835K miles

My 97 does the same thing. All i do is make sure the wires going to the gas pedal have plenty of slack through out the entire movement of the accelorator pedal. Somehow the wires works themselves backwards through the wire saddle until its tight. Check the conector for corrosion and grease with dielectric grease and it should be good for a year or so....