Noid93

I just installed a toggle switch (non oem) into the fan clutch override connector and hope that it doesnt effect any other operation. I tapped a switched 12v into the jumper(green) wire that came installed in it from factory. I want it to act just like the factory switch is in..... This is what i did. Is this how the oem switch works?... Or does it block the Control and only transmit 12 volt to the fan terminal when the switch is on?... and what is the "???" terminal for? If nothing else i could use a vin from a truck with an electric fan override switch. I did read where the fan should stay on for X amount of time after the override is shut off, and so far it does that.

It could be the large master solenoid/relay over in front of the passangers seat. Mine acts up once in a while doing similar things. i think its only twenty bucks right from mack. Don't replace it with anything eles. most solenoids are only momentary duty. this is a full duty solenoid

http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=4365&view=&hl=trunion&fromsearch= This will answer all your questions.

Easy ride height check-- Dump the air in the suspension when it is shaking. IF the shaking goes away, it is set to High(lower the susp. on leveling valve). If it doesn't go away, the ride height MAY NOT BE set high enough(if it is a driveline issue at all). Easy easy way to check for ride height isssue....

Easy task too. 5 or 6 bolts on the top of the head and pop the old parts out and new in. Thats about it. 20 min job for a first timer.

Does anybody know where to get a taller than 14 inch bumper. I looked and called a few places and 13 and 14 is the most common but i met a guy at an eathonal plant with a 18 inch chrome or stainless bumper. Cant find a name on it. Or a Manufacturer. Called a few places and "yes, we have 17 inch bumpers", drive there(with a tape measure) and its a 14 or 13. Any idea where to get a 17 or 18 inch tall bumper and actually HAS ONE at that height. Any help would be great... Thanks NOID http://www.northeastfiberglassproducts.com...il2.asp?uid=146 this says 17... actually measured one, it was only a 14 Wonder if these are what they say also---- http://www.ds-sewing.com/truck_acc/bumpers/Mack_bumpers.html http://southernstamping.com/mackbumpers.html

There is a "kick down" as well on the allisons. If u have an air throttle that moves a air cylinder on the injection pump, it uses the same air pressue pushing agianst a little cylinder and spring to move a linkage on the tranny to tell it how much throttle you are giving it. First thing, you need to find out if it is a cable modulator or air modulator. If it is a cable modulator it can be adjusted if it is not broken. Remove the end from the transmission, which is located on the left hand side (in your case the passenger side) just above the top of the oil pan about 2/3 of the way back. There will be a pin inside. Have someone step on the throttle to see if the pin moves in and out with the throttle. The engine may have to be running to do this. If the cable is not broken, then locate where the cable attaches to the throttle linkage. At full throttle you should be able to pull the end of the modulator cable about 1/8" past the throttle linkage. If you have an air modulator(located same spot) Remove the air cylinder. Apply shop air to the air inlet side of the air modulator. If any air leks by to the plunger side of the modulator, replace the modulator." Hope that helps

I have a 97 that was doing the same thing, no overhaul though, and all it was, was the rubber hose on the breather tube/pipe had collaped, what little blowby i had, could not escape out the breather pipe. Instead, it pushed out the only other place it could, the dip stick tube. Not saying this is the problem, but i know i was relived when thats all it was on mine.. let us know what you find.... Curt

Manny, these trannys require very high and very low rpm shifts. Usually run the rpms up to 1800 in 1st gear pull it out of gear, and start pushing it into 2nd about 1300 rpm and it should fall in about 1250. You can damn near smoke an entire cigarette between gears. For down shifting, just the opposite. Run it down to 1200 and pull out of 5, rev it up to bout 1800, and slide it into 4. Best of luck.

I agree. You cant get boost without fire and damn good fire at that. If you are not getting lots of fresh air in (CHECK AIR FILTER..i know its simple but i've overlooked the simple things before myself) good MIST of fuel ( check injectors) at the RIGHT TIME (check fuel and valve timing), free flowing exhaust (check for back pressure, buildup in manifold, or manifold leaks). It seems like most the big problems can be a result of overlooking minor details.... I have also saw where the elbow that feeds filtered air to the turbo will collaps over the turbo inlet and block air from getting in, but only underload. Its hard to see the turbo underload so look for the possiblity of the elbow being soft, flimsy or push on it to see if it can even collaps that far.... Also i am not sure how the torque sensors work in the eaton fuller transmissions but if that is reading wrong, that may not apply full power. I have also heard of many electric throttle/foot pedals only giving the computer a reading of 50-75% throttle. When it is hooked up to the computer, check to see if the computer shows %100 throttle when you push it down. One poster said that a new throttle made his truck drive like a whole new truck... PS Raf, if your turbo has a low bust, get it a pushup bra... Just kidding.... I saw the headline and laughed. I knew what u meant... boost

From what i have seen, the aftermarkets that bolt in are more than suffecient. When i do mechanic work for maxville during my slow times, I have seen him use them. I belive the first one he used was about 4-5 years ago and just as recent as 9 months ago. One on his personal tankers, and one on a log truck. Never had a problem with any of them and you can bet that a log truck, and for sure his slurry tankers see some of the hardest conditions possible. I would recommend the aftermarket for just the time savings and would sure have no problem trusting them as far as strength goes. Now obviously they have only been in his rigs for 5 years tops, but absolutey no cracks or breaks on the aftermarkets camelback trunions....

What transmission do you have, A mack or an eaton fuller... Beacause an eaton fuller 8LL is to be shifted as an eight speed(similar to your pete). But a mack 2060,70,80 can be ran like a five.. The eaton fuller 8LL trans should like low rpm better...

Oh yeah, here are some links... Turbos, injectors, and blixxtons--- http://www.rochesterfuel.com/products/dies...ck-c-2_107.html Best price on blixxton http://www.performancepartsdepot.com/Produ...e=Blixxton+Mack

PLEASE keep in mind that the blixxton itself is not the core issue. Its the operator. Guns can be dangerous too, if put in the wrong hands. Yes, you may be shortening engine life, twisting the block and so on, BUT with a full dash of gauges, proper knowlege, and paying close attention to your truck, This is a safe alternitive to OEM HP hikes. I've looked at how my turbo specs compaired to a 460, max boost ratings, Injectors(400-454 all the same tip), etc. Baisically, other than a larger turbo, my factory 400 has the same injectors and compression as the 454, but by my choise i can run 10%(440hp+/-) or 30% (520hp +/-) AT MY OWN CHOISE. Just as i would be responsible for pulling the trigger. It is as simple as plug and pay with this chip, but it is wise to even call your dealer and see what max hp the recommend from factory, without any other mods. For example- you can only push so muh fuel thru a small injector. Try pushing excessive fuel through and pump fatigue may be the price you pay. THE BEST PART IS THAT THIS CHIP HAS NO EFFECT ON THE 427 AND BIGGER MOTORS. YOU WILL NOT SEE EXCESSIVE SMOKE AND WILL NOT HATCH A MOTOR 3 DAYS AFTER INSTALLING SOLEY BECAUSE OF THE BLIXXTON. DO YOUR HOMEWORK!! Props to Jzack- THERE IS A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A DRIVER AND AN OPERATOR!!!!! I would never put these on a fleet. Too many drivers. But i like to think of myself as an operator. I too have had better fuel economy with this because i can maintain a set speed and not always accelerating back to 60 mph after a hill. I do recommend this product based on my personal experience.

Knock on wood(please take the time now to do so...........) YES. Pulling 6.4-6.8 mpg hauling 66,000 lbs of spuds in the box, grossing 90-92 thousand. Big fall harvest in progress right now and that will be my average gross untill at least december. When im pulling hard hills north with corn i get as low as 5.6 mpg, but if im running along the mississippi with corn or soybeans i maintain bout that 6.4 mpg. Boost upwards of 35+ on 60 degree or less days, and yes, The best $300 i ever spent........Rochester Diesel almost has me talked into the turbo upgrade with new, bigger rubber elbow on the intake side either.......

Mine has a one and a two sticker on it. The one position is 30% and the 2 position is 10%. I know that sounds funny, but that is what the sheet said that mine came with and i didnt read that for a day or so after i had it and when i switched it to 1, it came alive more yet... If yours doesent have that one and two decal on it, with the wires hanging down and the switch pointing down, top twards you, i belive that one is the switch pointing away from the wiring harness...Thats how mine is.. Any other questions, i think rochester fuel is very knowlegable on macks. Check out their site. Injectors, Turbos, Blixxton http://www.rochesterfuel.com/products/dies...ck-c-2_107.html

I would not recommend a exhaust brake(behinde the turbo). The performance of a jake is second to none. The brake power of an exhaust brake is not even close to that of jake brake. The exhaust brake just blocks the flow of the exhaust. A jake will open and close the valves on the engine heads at different times to make the engine take power instead of make power. I would not settle for anything less...

yes, it is located up on the top of the trans. Easily acessable from the floor of the cab( especially on the ch/cl).

Got a reman T2130 trans in my 97 CH. In late October last year I swapped my trans (and clutch) out due to a fierce rumble when I got above 65 mph(and louder at faster speeds unloaded, while maintain or lightly accelerating). The noise was not constant but it went from quiet/no noise to loud and faded away to nothing about every 1-2 seconds. After finding all the metal filings and chunks of bearing(No BS) in the bottom, I opted it was time to put a trans in b4 I wrecked a $3K core, even if I was down 3 days during my busiest grain season. This noise I thought would go away with the new trans, but could still hear this noise. It was and still is about 25% as loud as the trans I took out. It has that pitted bearing noise. My trans did not make this noise 2 years ago. The reman company did not have one rebuilt waiting on the shelf but had a core that needed to be rebuild. I asked if they could have it done 2 days later or i was going to have to buy it from a competitor. They said no problem, we'll have done by then. I’m not saying that they missed something but is it plausible that a job rushed can have more chance for error? The work that has been done when i took it in for warranty is as follows..... all u joints inspected or replaced first drive shaft and slip shaft inspected, repaired, and balanced including hanger brg checked for metal in diffs-none (rear rear- new 1 year ago) Intermediate shaft checked out They think they may have traced it to the difference in tire height. They took my intermediate shaft off and locked the diff and drove it and the noise went away but any ch or cl owner knows the loud buzzer that goes off the whole time your diff lock is on that could have covered the noise. The tread is new on the rears and 65% on the front driver(LP 24.5). I read a post on here at one time about having to put all your higher tread tires on one side vs to the back on Mack axles. I have an air lock power divide if that makes a difference. Imp not sure if the work they did today with the int. shaft and u joints is going to help or not. Any ideas b4 we pull the trans. Imp 75% sure that it is the trans(why would it be quieter but still there after a trans swap) but i am hoping to track down or eliminate all other possibilities quickly so i don’t lose any more loads during down time..... Thanks CURT Reply here or email or call even to get more info.... Noid93@hotmail.com 715-495-9383 - Anytime

Check the rubber hose on the breather pipe especially right by the valve cover were it runs horizontaly. I had the section of rubber hose on the breather pipe right by the valve cover collapse and caused the blow by to accelerate through the orfice and made it look like a lot of blow by and scavange oil with it. It also made the crank case pressure a little higher than normal pushing oil and fumes out the filler tube and dip stick. I have saw it on 5 truck with 600,000 mi on it. My truck was breathing heavy out of the dip stick and filler tube also. Replaced the hose for bout 3 bucks. Easy fix.... Just something to check.

Check the rubber hose on the breather pipe. I had the section of rubber hose on the breather pipe right by the valve cover collapse and caused the blow by to accelerate through the orfice and made it look like a lot of blow by. It also made the crank case pressure a little higher than normal. I have saw it on every truck with 600,000 mi on it. My truck was breathing heavy out of the dip stick and filler tube also. Replaced the hose for bout 3 bucks. Easy fix....

I am looking to take a single axle tractor and make it a power unit. I need it to drive down the road at full speed(baiscally normal operation) pulling a tounge hitch piece of equipment. Then back this piece of equipent into a pit, hook the pto up(running at 1000 rpm using 300hp ) and use the engine as a drive unit. The problems are: 1) I need a transmission that will reverse the rotation of the drive shaft to 1.5 to 1. I know the twin stick mack trans will do that but it has a 4.27 to 1 ratio in reverse-high gear and cant spin the motor at 4270 rpm. I have a way to send power through an axle and disconnect power going to the wheels via the power divider. Is there a trans with that high of a reverese? OR 2) Does anyone know of a cheap transfer case that will reverse direction on one output for the pto and maintain the same rotation for the axle driving down the road? Thanks for all the help. Keep in mind that i require 300hp to do this and need stout parts... CURT

From what i can tell, the injectors on the 1990 modle e6's(thats all the farther back my manuals go), the injectors are the same part number from the 300 to the 350 hp AS LONG AS THE BOTH HAVE BOSCH PUMPS. the ambac pumps use ambac injectors. The bosch use bosch. Which are the same part number. I would guess that the 87s and 88s would be similar.

your engine at 1800 rpm with the jake on high(with s3b or s4d turbo) should be building more than 7 pounds of boost according to the mack manuals. My truck that was factory at 400 hp( has a different turbo than yours) builds up to 14 psi with jake on high at high rpms.... max boost under load 28 to 35 psi(keep in mind my truck is chipped with a blixxton power module)..Your boost on load is perfect. 97 e7 @427------- 24 to 32 psi. Thats right out of the mack manual.