fifth wheel

I have been using nothing but Rotella T in the crankcases since 1972. They changed the formula or somthing (adding polymers?) about 10-12 years ago, I am not going to do anything different. I do add a little Marvel Mystry or two cycle oil to the fuel tanks, (gas and diesel). FW

Intake .010 - exhaust .025 cold. FW

If you have a Commercial pump on there you need to add a return line from the valve to the tank. On most single acting systems they plug this port, and when the spool is in the body down position the oil has to pass back through the pump and suction line to the tank. If the body is light it will still drop slow. FW

Your frame is about to fail, when it does the cab shield will come down thru the cab, any cracks is OUT OF SERVICE. FW

You need a rear mounted PTO/ in sync with engine speed. FW

Check fuel pressure. I had the same problems a few years ago, not quite full rpm's. It was in the hot side of the turbo, it would be fine idle to about 3/4 throttle, at full throttle it didnt have the power it should, if I loosened the Marmon clamp on the hot side of the turbo it would rev up a little more. The flange on the cartridge was pitted and worn enough to allow the impeller to rub the hot housing at high speed/temp. With a new cartridge I still had to dress up the inside of the hot housing. If they sit for long periods rust builds up, doesn't seem to be the problem here. When its in spec, full throttle,full load, exhaust haze to a trace of smoke. 77V14800's FW

The buddy/Thank you switch is part of the headlamp circuit,but as stated earlier it is not a switch issue. No further comments your Honor. FW

The circuit for the round B/R lamps is, ground to low filiment (low beam), ground to high filiment (high beam).Power up a lamp on the bench with both filiments and see how hot it gets. Seems to be a switch problem, the R model headlamp switchs don't have a long life, and I have to change them often. FW

It is a manually operated valve that charges the t/t protection valve and will not return to a no delivery status upon breakaway or pressure loss. FW

What I was trying to address is that,a tie rod with right hand threads of different thread pitches is orignal equipment in the B model era, they may have used LH-RH type also. The FA 600's use RH-RH into the mid 60's and possibly later. FW

I believe that system is protected by circut breakers. FW

On the earlier trucks with FA 517, 519, 522, 600 axles the cross steering tube ( tie rod) has two different pitch threads so you have fine adjustment. At times you have to drop one taper and advance one end to get where you want to be. The female threaded end type years ago is a servicable joint, not the case here. I have straighted many cross tubes over the years. FW

The 743 cid engines have much the same block, crank, rods, and heads. With HP 195-335 acheived from the right combination of camshafts,cam timing, pistons, injectors, dampeners, supercharcers,and turbochargers. Intercooling and aftercooling will make a difference, but it all has to be in the right combination to get the performance for a long engine life. A friend of mine said I am gonig to put a turbo on my 220, I said what for? I want to hear it whistle. OK. The last whistle he heard was the head falling from the sky when it blew off. FW

The parts book for a gasoline powered trucks lists the following, Jack 8 ton, Wrench, socket Wrecch, axle (SW44) Handle,socket wrench Bar, pilot Socket,Spark plug wrench Extension,Spark plug wrench Handle, Spark plug wrench Wrench, Engineer's 7/16x1/2 Wrench, Engineer's 9/16x5/8 Wrench, Engineer's 3/4x7/8 Wrench, adjustable Driver, #2 phillips screw Driver, #3 phillips screw Driver, 3" screw Driver, 6" screw Hammer Pliers, 8" Padlock, tool box The early LT's had the battries on the LH side the RH side is the tool box. later truck batteries both sides. FW

I am sure I have one, PM me. FW

Check the pump drive, I have seen the back of gear boxes broke off trying to drag with something locked up. Goin to eat good today, FW

A couple of my trucks have that much.

That sums it up.

When I changed from a natural to a turbocharged engine, you could hear the turbo scream through the fiberglass tube. I fiberglassed the whole pipe, it helped some. Moving the piping out of the cab solved the problem. I used a B 81 tube.

My 1st choice Grover, 2nd choice Grover. FW

Had the same symptoms a few years back, broken pinion tooth front carrier (crd 92) Haven't tried one but I bet you use a fiber optics scope through the fill plug to look in the pinion housing. FW

He needs to put his new toy away and play with his skateboard, he has a bigger problem than a broken frame. Good luck FW

The cab is mounted about 2 inches higher on a B615, compared to a B61. Is the column 2 inches longer?. On a standard B model with a 22" steering wheel you have about 2 inches between the windshield and rim of the wheel. FW

The fifth wheel you need is used on the military 5 ton tractors, and shouldn't be hard to find. I have one I will part with PM me. FW

I have that front sheet metal, (hood, shell, headlight panels and frame extensions) I will part with. Send me a PM. Thanks FW