MACKTRUCKS4

Talked to Charles today. He wasn't much help with a bigger cam. He said I will have to get the cam out and take it from there. He needs the part number off the cam. He said he has a friend at Mack that will be able to help him with what cam has more lift and duration. A regrind is $150 per lobe and $60 to weld a lobe. They do all the cam repairs for Mack Corp.

I have to replace my cam in a mechanical 400 Hp E-7. I have a 427 turbo on it with super-flow injectors, making about 490 Hp. My question is what different size cams do they make? Should I go stock? or could I go with a bigger Hp cam? Like one for a 427 or 460 Hp. I like my horsepower. Not worried about economy.

If you check the ratio's and they do match, double check by pulling the side cover off of the rear you put in and check the gears themselves for the right ratio. I have heard stories of shops putting in the wrong ratio inside and not changing the outside numbers. I too at one time had the same problem and it turned out to be miss-matched ratio's. The front rear would get hot because the power divider was jumping due to the ratio's not matching.

I changed my transmission in my superliner. I went to a 12 spd. from a 9 spd, the same od that you are talking about. I lost 6 miles per hour, top speed went from 82 down to 76. I went to a 12 spd because I needed different reverse's for what I use the truck for.

Ok, now that I got the air problem fixed, now the trans seems to shift very sluggish between hi and lo. Could it be to much lube in the cylinders, and restricting the air flow? Possible slowing down the shifting?

I too at one time had a front rear go bad and if I were a betting man, (which I am) I thought it was the trans. Turned out it was the rear. Also I had a problem with my 12 spd., it would only come out of high gear on the highway when you would find the spot of rpm's when you had no drag on the motor, it would slide out of gear but when you started pulling, it would go back in. It turned out when the shift rail was put in, the alignment bolt was not in the hole on the shift rail. It was off just enough to let it shift in lo with no problem but in hi, it would slide out. Does your problem happen in both hi and lo, or just one?

You guys are no help but you sure are entertaining. I got the problem fixed (with a 20 lb. sledge) no really, I took the top housing off yesterday for one last time and after some closer examining I discovered that someone installed the wrong o-ring on the hi-lo piston which was letting air by-pass it enough to cause my head to ache. I got all the new parts last fall and let someone else put it together so I would have something to do in the winter time (fixing it again). It's a good thing I procrastinate because I did not clean off my bench for all the old parts were still on the bench to compare. Lo and behold the two o-rings were not the same, one was thinner which made for a not so good seal. I can put this one to bed.

You all are just looking at it all wrong, he is filling the glass for his friend, you know the one," with friends like that, who needs enemies."

My air is leaking "only" from the vent in the bottom of the high-low cylinder. And because I replaced all internal parts, I think it may be the selector valve, which I only rebuilt.

I have all the rebuild manuals for mack transmissions that a friend gave me. With them, I made sure I put them together right. I tried to put it together wrong and you can't. I used mack o ring lube when I put it together. The torque limit lines are blocked. I think it may be the selector valve. I rebuilt it but it may be worn so I think I will put a new one on. I will order one on monday.

I have a 12 spd. (1070B) in my superliner. The problem I have is I have air leaking out of the vent in the high-low cylinder on top of the trans. I've rebuilt all the shift rails and pistons, checked all the plumbing, rebuilt the selector valve, changed the diversion valves, and can't seam to get the air to stop leaking. It only leaks when the selector is in direct, neutral, or reverse. It stops leaking when it's in high. I'm ready to blow it up. I need someone good with transmissions.

I have some but will need most of them. I have a friend that is parting out a superliner. What parts do you need, I can check to see if he has them.

OK, now what trans works best? what about rears? size? and what about lockers? Do they even make a locker for Mack? what suspension? double frame? Also custom crankshaft? or is that custom CAMSHAFT? that I've heard of but not a custom crankshaft. What is a slipper clutch? I can see the black smoke already!!!!!!

That is the very truck I saw at the Bloomsburg fair last week that got me going on building a superliner puller.

My wife and I took a trip up to Niagara falls for our 20th wedding anniversary on Sept. 24th, and while driving through New York somewhere, I saw one of these trucks on the back of a heavy hauler. It was going the other way and I could not find my camera fast enough. I do know the truck was "HUGE". It was painted yellow.

Does anyone know where to have a E-9 hopped up to big horsepower? There has to be someone out there that really knows how to crank out the "Big" ponies. I am thinking about building a puller out of a spare superliner I have and a spare E-9 I have.

Does anyone know if all E-9 engine parts interchange. Parts meaning block, heads, crank. I was told the only difference was injectors, pump, and turbo between the 400, 440, 450, and 500. I picked up a spare E-9 400 for parts and need to know what will work and what won't.

I just added some pictures of the show and some from the Buck pulls saturday night. V-8 mack rulled the pulls. Just check my gallery.