HarryS

Looks like a Superliner in there too.

Was it Oakley Tank Lines?

Lookin' good. I didn't see the valve cover bolts in the pictures but have a question about them. I did valve cover gaskets a few months ago and noticed the bolts have a groove in the shank and am not sure what it is for. Is there a baffle that goes over the rockers? Or I thought an O ring but the bolt bottoms out before you get to that part.

I agree but not before a good ass kickin'.

I like the heavy duty drive on ramp.

The pitman arm finally came off using the recommended bigger puller, bfh, then some heat. I also had a hard time getting the steering shaft tube separated then there was a spacer between the steering box and frame that had to have been on since the truck was built in 1960. It had to come off before the box would come down and over the axle. It took lots of heat and prying enough to get a hydraulic spreader in and finally separate the spacer. Rather than tackle the rebuild I will have it rebuilt and hopefully not have to worry about missing something. Weller Truck Parts was recommended and they are close enough to not have to ship. They say a week to ten days turn around. They seem to be all over the country. Anybody had experience with them?

Those look like simulators to me.

That was going to be my next question. Hard to tell if it is tapered or just spline. I can see where some dirt was painted over when the frame was painted so that tells me it's probably been on there since new. I did not have to remove the pitman arm when the hyd steering assist was added. The puller should be here by the end of the week. Based on your's and Vlad's experience it looks like a three step process. Puller BFH and heat.

Welcome aboard. A number of years ago I had two late 1940,s Diamond T trucks with Hercules engines. One was a JXB the other a JXD. The difference was the bore. As I recall parts for those engines at that time were available due to one of the fork lift manufacturers using the same engine.

Well I didn't get too far. I don't have the right puller for the pitman arm. The ones I have that fit are three arm automotive type which aren't strong enough and the others are too small. I ordered one that should work on ebay. It says used once and was half price of a new one. Should be here the end of next week. I did get the steering wheel off without too much trouble.

Speaking of chains reminds me of being in the mountains of Germany when in the Army many years ago. They did not plow and the snow built up. We ran the deuce and a half's with all wheels chained. The tandems had double chains. Definitely a rough ride if not in loose snow.

Welcome. Lots of good information on here especially for fire trucks. Looks like we may be neighbors. I live on Aden Rd near Rt 234.

Thanks for the pictures. That's a big help to know what's inside. The last time I remember opening up a steering box years ago there were many ball bearings that went everywhere. That was on a antique car. I have had the steering wheel off a few years ago so hopefully that won't be too bad but as I remember it is not drilled for a puller. Hopefully I can get the box out in the next few days then see what I run into.

The play which I agree is excessive is pretty much the same (about 8") with engine running or not. Even now with the drag link/steering valve disconnected.

Vlad, Your description of the hydraulic steering assist operation is spot on. I had the valve checked and it is working as it should. What happens when driving is you feel like you are chasing the front end. When you turn the steering even slightly in one direction the truck follows and when you turn it the opposite direction there is a delay due to the play. I raised the front end and moved the steering lock to lock and then tried adjustment of the box and didn't get any additional adjustment. I checked for centering of the steering wheel by counting the revolutions, didn't see any marks. I disconnected the drag link/steering valve to see if there was any looseness in the pitman arm, nothing there. At this point I don't see anything else but the box. To remove the box it looks like the steering wheel would come off then the tube which is clamped at the steering box and as far as I can tell there is no disconnect for the steering shaft as Terry mentions. It looks like it should come out from the bottom once unbolted from the frame and removal of the pitman arm. I don't know if I'm adventurous enough to get into the box.

That really sucks. Hope you can improve to where you can do the things you like.

Thanks for the reply. I see two things to check. I did not have the wheels off the ground and did not go full left to right and return. The other thing to check is for movement at the steering box output shaft. The steering box and steering shaft as far as I know are one unit with no u-joints. The Garrison valve replaces the drag link with the lines running from the pump and to the hyd cylinder which attaches to the spring u bolts at one end and the tie rod on the other. The reservoir does have the filter in the canister. I had leaks in the valve and the cylinder and both of those have been fixed. I will check the two things mentioned and report back.

There is about 6"-8" play in the steering wheel on my 1960 B-61 with SG-26 steering box. All the front end components check out. I have a Garrison hydraulic assist power steering set up seems to be working as it should. There is an adjustment on the side of the steering box which is as tight as it will go. The other problem with the box is a it leaks at the drag link stud. What is the next step for a fix?

I noticed the seller doesn't have much feed back. Seems to be a woman dealing in purses and so forth. I'd say that needs to be an in person deal.

Busted! So I will admit to being a pack-rat.

I've got a nice set with one little stone ding in one of the housings. I'm not sure what to do with them.

Sad to hear. May he RIP.

How about the pervert Senate staffer defiling our hearing room: https://www.foxnews.com/politics/sen-cardin-breaks-silence-staffer-fired-sex-tape-filmed-hearing-room-breach-trust Worst part is the idiot thinks it's a victim.

Years ago I had a Diamond T with a Hercules engine that had a large Zenith carb with a governor between it and the manifold. It had your same symptoms. I ended up hollowing out the governor and blocking all the vacuum holes and ports. It was then just a spacer. It ran fine after that. One other thing to check is the fuel pressure.

I found an old B Model operation manual for gas powered trucks. It calls for 10* BTC with 91 octane gas. That was when gas was gas with lead and without alcohol. The closest thing in today's gas would be non ethanol with the same octane rating if you can find it. Probably have to experiment from that point.