HarryS

I am a big fan of the 39 & 40 coupes also especially with a nicely done flathead. That one looks to be really nice and unmolested.

Really looks great especially the painted tanks and fit of the pipes.

Here is another example of "when seconds count" and how they deal with it in Texas. http://www.gunssavelife.com/?p=6008

Very nice. Well deserved.

Sounds and look great. The cab is very cool can't wait to see it.

This pretty cool rat rod type 1960 Cadillac 4 dr showed up at our local (DC area) Cadillac LaSalle Club show last month. It is powered by a Cummins 5.9 with a 5 speed trans. It has turbo and supercharger with airbag suspension with a stock Caddie rear so he has to be careful with the torque.

That's really funny. I'm afraid to send to any liberals they may think it is real.

Thanks guys for the info. I'll be back at it tomorrow.

Had the shutters working fine until last week when they stopped closing. The air pressure seems strong to the shutterstat but from there to the shutter piston it seems weak. When I use shop air (120#) direct to the piston the shutters close and open. I removed the cap from the shutterstat and there is a screen and felt washer/filter. They both appear to be OK with no clogging. Is the shutterstat repairable? If not are replacements available. Thanks, Harry

I agree with "Keep It" if you can but if you must sell it take your time and find the right market. Here's a link to an LJ that sold at R & M Hershey Auction in 2012: http://www.rmauctions.com/lots/lot.cfm?lot_id=1053816 This truck was an older restoration that was beginning to show it's age and it was gas on top of that. It sold for $33K.

...It is a canister type filter set up nothing real fancy mine holds about 2.5 gallons of oil. Can you still get the filter elements for these?

Don't give up on it if you really want it. Many an E-bay sale falls through, so I would contact the seller to let him know you are interested That's what happened in my case. The buyer that outbid me was so busy giving shipping instructions and being a BFD he forgot to pay, even the deposit. So it does pay to let the sellers know you are a good plan B. There is also another B Model wrecker on ebay ,http://www.ebay.com/itm/1960-Mack-B61-B-Model-Mack-with-Wrecker-Body-/251376759742?forcerrptr=true&hash=item3a8738f3be&item=251376759742&pt=Commercial_Trucks#ht_70wt_872 quite a bit more money but no bids. Looks like a nice truck. O feedback from seller which means "Be Careful".

I see the auction is over and it sold for a really decent price. Hope you are the new owner.

What a great gift for your dad. He sounds like the kind of guy that would enjoy the real thing. As mentioned before rust is the biggest problem to deal with unless you have the skills to do the work yourself. This message forum is probably the best resource for anyone getting into the fun and enjoyment of B model ownership. When you consider the cost of ownership you have to factor in the amount of enjoyment it gives in return.

Very nice. I think the grill guard really makes the front look good. Chrome is the way to go. Pipes look good too.

That is super news. I'm happy for you and like others wish you many more anniversaries.

I wasn't able to find the video mentioned but did come up with this B Model. It wouldn't let me copy the picture but here is the link: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.hankstruckpictures.com/pix/trucks/jim_steele/steam_tractor_show/59_mack_b67_orange_blossom_john_lamke1.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.hankstruckpictures.com/js_steamshow.htm&h=545&w=800&sz=312&tbnid=qSvuLfNKPB2JUM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=132&zoom=1&usg=__DLcjmarSi5uEl1tnroZUf1FZ7Ak=&docid=D2FMpPx3IBqeqM&hl=en&sa=X&ei=EytfUq-rMujyyAGZ0IDwCg&ved=0CEQQ9QEwBQ What a link! Anyway the truck looks pretty good in that shade of orange.

Sweet! Looks like you'll be driving soon.

I just went through that when I had the duplex direct switched to a 9 spd overgear. The speedo was off by about 20%. I changed the driven gear which is located down in the hole on the trans. If you remove the cable connection nipple you should be able to pull the driven gear out. As it turns out the drive gear has to be a match. Changing that gets a little more complicated you have to pull the driveshaft and housing from the rear of the trans, Once that was done it works fine. The cable end at the transmission on mine is square. I'm also having trouble with the tach cable which has the strange looking tang at the drive end and a square drive at the tach end. The tach end of the cable has about half inch broken off and doesn't make full contact so the readings vary from 0 to 800 regardless of engine speed. I sent the tach cable and housing to Bob's Speedometer in Michigan on Tuesday and he called this morning saying he has fixed the cable along with lubricating it and is returning it today for $15 + shipping. That's what I call service.

Sounds like either a fuel supply problem; fuel pump pressure, restriction or debris in fuel line, pin hole leaks in fuel line or connections, debris in carb or other restriction or it could be a vacuum leak which could be anywhere from the inake manifold to the wipers or maybe a vacuum brake booster if so equipped. Cool looking truck hope you can sort it out without too much aggrevation.

It was on the History channel this past Saturday night. I'm sure they will replay it. I still can't believe those prices and some of the buyers were dealers buying with the idea of reselling. I would not want to be at the end of that chain.

Here's a link to the article in Old Cars Weekly: http://www.oldcarsweekly.com/features/going-lambrecht-chevrolet-sale-living-hype?et_mid=639924&rid=241919733 Where are those people when I'm selling.

Very nice.It makes it all worthwhile when you can take them out on the road.

I finally got to checking the cable and at the engine end it was fine but the instrument end was not tight. When I removed the instrument end to take a look the crimpted on square end was very short and not fully engaged. I was able to get it in and tightened. I took the truck out today and the tach worked great, for about 5 miles and it slipped back to not registering much above 800 rpm. At least now I know that I need a new cable. Thanks again for the advice and vote.

Sounds like a specific order for a repair. I'm surprised they didn't take the air cleaner too.