Hook n ladder 1

..or any decent shape bull bar for same truck.

Thanks men!

My clutch brake stopped working a few days ago. There was a slight grown everytime I went to activate it. If it needs to be repaired or replaced does the clutch also have to be replaced or is it separate. Its a 98 CH with a10 speed eaton.

Thanks for the info. The foreign MC is funny lookin especially with the "R" model bumper.

My idea includes a raised room sleeper. Not sure what size yet. I dont know if I need to stick with a Mack sleeper or if another make would work. Another issue is to try to hunt down an MR tractor ( id have to lenghthen the frame) or get a straight chassis maybe a garbage truck and convert it to a tractor. The prob with that is Id have to replace the spring suspension with air ride. Anybody do this before and how bad did it cost??? The USPS trucks would be a good start but kinda short and have automatics which I wouldnt want. Since the MR is as aerodynamic as a brick the automatic would cut into my MPG. That brings me to another question for you guys...I run a CH613 right now. its lines are sleeker and smoother than the MR. Does a conventional get that much better MPG than a tilt cab?

I'm looking down the road a year or two but thinking about making a over the road tractor on a tilt cab MR or MRU. The original idea is take this chassis and put a sleeper on it with some fabrication between the cab and sleeper. It would be a split tilt ( ths sleeper would not tilt) very similar to modern fire apparatus (Pierce Lance in specific). Used sleepers are a dime a dozen and could probably put any make sleeper on that chassis. This idea is in it's infancy. I'm looking for problems or ideas. I understand the ride quality of a tilt cab. I drove an MR years ago for Waste management. I'm probably looking for at least a 427hp with 13 speed. and air ride even maybe air ride on the front. It's a crazy idea but could be a fun one. Thanks for any help.

I need to replacemy exhaust piping on my 98 CH613. I have duals and need to replace from the turbo pipe to the mufflers. My local Mack dealer told me to go pound sand. I'm looking for 5" a couple of flex pipes a Y or a T, 2 90* elbows and some straight pipe. Im either looking for parts or a kit. is there a shop in the chicago area that specializes in custom exhaust ? the Mack dealer called me back and said "that truck didnt come with duals!! Yea no SH^%) Can someone steer me in the right direction? Thanks!!

Did the single axle tractors have 23,000lbs rear ends?

Anyone have or know where I can get spec info on the MRs the USPS has purchased? My fire Dept. is looking to acquire a single axle MR tractor and I'm having problems getting info. I had gotten some but a whole info sheet would work better. Also if you have any info on where many of these are at that would be great. I live in the Chicago area and see tandem axle MR tractors but not many single axle. Info on the internet is spotty. Thanks.

Where would you measure? At the rear of the frame? I did that and got about 42". I pull a flat and had about 30,000 lbs on that axle group. I lowered the suspension about an inch and a half and the ride was alot better. Im gonna track down the model suspension so i can get the adjustment right. Also the plastic gauge says measure at front axle but some of the tech sheets i looked at from hendrickson looks like they measure at rear axle. which one is correct?

My 98 Mack Ch613 has Eaton rear ends with hendrickson air ride. I had used the measureing device (the plastic hendrickson measureing thing) to measure ride height and it measured ok. but it seems too high. The tractor looks "jacked up" in the rear and the air bags look to be filled to capacity. The ride is rough as hell and with a load on under acceleration the truck vibrates like hell. Is there any other way to measure it? Like maybe putting a level on the frame rails? It just doesn't seem right regardless of what the plastic gauge tells me.

Need your ideas men. 98 Ch 613 with reman 427. Never had any problems. I did pm yesterday, changed all filters etc. Truck running great. about 100 miles down highway it starts to buck alittle then smoothes out...did it a few times. i think the motor shut down but fired back up a few times. ( i was still in gear) then i seemed to lose power 1600 rpm then 15 etc. I got to 1400 and pulled into a rest area. Shut off engine, Opened hood. everything looked ok even filters were fine. Got back in and everything seemed fine. It may be running BARELY a little rougher. No check engine light either. Any ideas? Motor installed in 2008. I might have 25,000 miles on it.

I need a grill for my 1998 Ch613. New or used. I can't find much out there on the internet. Anyone have any suggetions? I'm in the Chicago area.

Any word if Mack will come out with a glider kit? I could use a Axle back granite glider myself. It sounds like alot of fleets are interested because of numerous problems with the 2010 emission (all makes not just Mack). I talked to a fleet guy who oversees 1000 trucks. Had 200 2011 models on order. Got 20 had problems with everyone and cancelled remainder of order. They are looking into glider kits for the rest of their fleet. Of course they dont run Macks but he said they would like too.

Do you have anti-lock brakes? If so it could be the ABS valve leaking. The valve leaks and also makes the valve behind the dash sound like it's leaking. The abs valve should be mounted on the frame rails near each brake chamber ( there are 2 for the axle with abs...one on each frame rail).

Adam, what's it doing? Vibrating, shaking?

Are the axle back Granite and axle back Pinnacle hoods interchangeable?

Its not a brake chamber. its an anti-lock brake valve with air lines and an electrical connector. Its mounted inside the frame rail. there's one on each side above the first drive axle.

I didnt get a chance to finish my question...when the parking brake is released the abs valve leaks. This abs valve is before the brake chamber so I dont think its rust from the chamber. If i pull/push the parking brake knob a few times it eventually stops leaking. and once it stops i dont have any problems with it unless i set the brake again.

98 CH 613. Left side ABS valve ( inside framerail...a few airlines and an electrical connection )leaks at the diaphragm on the bottom. I replaced it once and its leaking again but not all the time. When it leaks down to about 80psi I get a "malfunction" light on the dash. Is the new valve bad or is it an ECM issue/

That is what I was looking for. If I ever make enough cash in trucking to buy a new truck....an axle back Granite day cab with that bar on the front. Mine would be red. I don't think that bottom bar in the center is supposed to be curved. I think it should be straight.

I'm looking for pics of an axle back Granite with an Ali Arc bullbar on it. Aliarc has pics of everything but an axle back on their website. If you have them can you email them to me at cctrans1@yahoo.com. thanks.

I have a 98 CH613 with a 427HP and 10 speed. I might have some trans issues with the 10 sp. I might swap to a 13 speed. I can use a few splits on the high side. Can anyone give me a ball park price on what a swap might cost (parts and labor)? Other than drive shaft is there any other mods that need to be done? Has anyone done this? That's a stupid question I know some of you gears heads have done this

The Jake might need a tune up kit. I'm not sure what is involved or how much it is but after a while they wear.

Hey Johnnyboy you wouldn't mind if I tacked on a question to your thread would ya? It's about my 98 Ch613 with Hendrickson air ride. thank you, sir. Here it goes.....my torque bars seem to be banging (when I'm empty) at the top of the...I guess it's a bracket. There is a rubber pad there but it's about a quarter inch thick.(all 4 are about the same thickness.) Do these pads need to replaced? How thick should they be??? How much $$$ are they?