Red Horse

With a bushel basket of money and a lot of time, anything is possible. Instead of bastardizing a Mack, if I had a good 3406 and a good 13 speed RR, I would find another Ford with a bad engine and swap it out- or any chassis that readily accepts the 3406. My biggest concern would be its not going to fit without a lot of mods and in any case, throw the radiator shell away because there is no way that stock radiator will cool that 3406.

I have a friend who has a very clean 88 R tandem dump (I think its a 688SX), big rears, and the 1071. He has a guy who drives it from time to time and the guy does not think its a six speed but rather uses the low hole air shift with the stick in other than first. As a matter of fact, he says he takes off with the splitter in "L" and the stick in 2nd. He then says he goes back to 1st "D", then second "D" etc. Any opinions? This harmful? As the chart for the 1071 says 1st LL is a 23.08 ratio and 1st "D" is a 8.59. When the splitter is in "D" is it a 1 to 1? And constantly driving the respective 5 speeds in the box? I made that assumption and dividing the 1st "D" ratio (8.59) into the LL ratio of 23.08, I come up with a reduction of 2.68. If that is so, then by starting in 2nd with the splitter in "LL" with a 2nd ratio of 4.59 I come up with a ratio of 13.37 (4.59x2.68). Am I correct? And again, and more importantly, is he doing this trans harm by running with the splitter in LL in anything but 1st.? Appreciate any education anyone can give me. And for the record, the spec sheet for the 1071 shows trhe followqing ratios: LL 23.08, 1st 8.59, 2nd 4.99, 3rd 2.84, 4th 1.66, 5th 1.00. Using my "theory" and if you used LL beyond 1st, you would have the following ratios: LL 23.08 1st D 8.59, 1st LL 23.02, 2nd D 4.99, 2nd LL 13.37, 3rd D 2.84, 3rd LL 7.61, 4th D 1.66, 4th LL 4.44, 5D 1.00

10-4 Rob- Thx guys

Guys, My B is 12 volt. I put a new Galion dump body on it and I want to replace my old frame mounted stop/tail lights (2) and turn signals with two new integral stop/tail/turn signals. Can I use LED's. Some people are telling me my flasher won't handle the LED's

rob- I'm afraid your skills (and energy) are way beyond this old boy! I'm really rethinking this issue now. If I compare gear ratios (ignoring the low hole) I find the following. What I did was pick the TRD720 ratios that came closest to the TRXL 1071 ratios Gear TRXL 1071 % change TRD 720 % change 1st 8.59 7.25 1L 2nd 4.99 42 4.16 2L 43 3rd 2.84 43 2.34 3L 44 4th 1.66 41 1.33 4L 43 5th 1.00 40 1.00 4H 25 .78 5H 22 Again, huge difference in rears as the 1071 would need a gear change to a 4.670 and the current ratio is 6.67 I'll try driving it this way with a load in a few days.

Thx Rob. I'm also brain dead as After I did the post I did a search on "cable clutch" and found that I raised this issue in 10/09, a few months after I bought the truck. I got some good info at the time-just never did anything with it. But my 6.67 rear has some play in it so I figured before I fool with that I should face the bigger issue. The original carrier is a CRD -62 and that was replaced with the CRD 118 in later versions of the RAD 111 axle. A 4.60 is the highest ratio you can get. Bob

Guys, From prior posts you might recall my B has a Maxidyne with a duplex (TRD-720) and a 6.67 rear. I can get a 4.60 chuck and a TRXL-1071. Has anyone put this 6 speed in their B? I gather I have an issue with the clutch right as the TRXL has cable actuation with a suspended pedal?

thx Larry- I think it was on "oldmacksrus" but now I can't open any of those info threads that the site has.

Guys, Anyone have the gear ratios for the TRD 720?

10-4 rob- I hear you

10-4 guys- thx- I have Duplex behind a Maxidyne in my 56, and everyone keeps telling me the back half won't take the torque of a 237 so I'm planing ahead.

Guys- Rob says .."air shifted." I'm talking about the one with two sticks- not the one with the air valve on the stick.

Guys, What is the proper nomenclature for the six speed TWO STICK-not air shift- that was used with 237 Maxidynes?

So what kind is that? (the snake, not the grouser!)

I believe you are correct-for sure its NOT a Euc. The ATHS mag of a few months ago had an article on Clines- don't have it handy but the reverse windshield appears to be a hallmark of Cline.

Name: Mack B-68X (1960) Date Added: 07 November 2008 - 06:21 PM Owner: Red Horse Short Description: Currently chassis View Vehicle

thx5thW- Maybe its a common to double reduction rears.

Guys, I was under my B-61X -it's a bit of an oddball, Duplex with a Maxidyne- and noticed that there is about a 1/4-1/3 turn/amount of play in the rear end. Its a CRD 62 with a 6.67 ratio. Truck does not "bang' or "clunk" but I was surprised to find that much play. Any opinions?

Fifth Wheel- Very nice job. I'm not sure I have the energy to do that. Like I said, I have a triangle-about an inch on a side that broke out. Short term I will tape it and maybe I'll try to do a fiberglass patch job for a long term solution.

Guys, thx for your comments. I put the air cleaner back on today andI've got about a 3/4" triangle opening. In the short term I'm going to use some Gorilla Tape to cover it but I think the solution is (as was suggested) to take the air cleaner off and then fiberglass a band around the housing

The Air cleaner connector that comes out of the side of the cowl (B-model) is some sort of composite /plastic/rubber which after 54 years is brittle. I broke off about a 1" chunk of it and was thinking this has to be a common problem. This part is also a tough one to get out so if I found one in good shape in a junk yard, I would not want to spend a lot of time trying to salvage it. Anyone have any good suggestions for a good "bridge" to connect from the air cleaner to what is left of the factory piece coming out of the cowl?

220 Cummins had good advice- not only did I order the insulators from Cleveland Tank, but after snapping the first "T" bolt off, I dragged out the Sawsall and cut the rest of them off. I then ordered new straps from Cleveland.as well. Good service and fair price. New ones were powder coated with good quality "T" bolts, washers, and stop nuts.

Well 220 I checked out their website and sent them a question, got a prompt answer and ordered the insulators this afternoon- fair price too. Thx again

thx "220"

Guys-thx for all your suggestions. Just for kicks I'm going to try the local Mack outlet. I probably should call Watts but they don't list it in their online catalog.