AZB755V8

Most guys on here would agree that a LTL, B-75 or Superliner are true classics. In that order of age and scarcity. Also for parts availability, none to some. The wow factor is an original LTL. Think you would want an LTH that has steel instead of aluminum components. The Good LTL is beautiful and seen it in person but the only thing LTL is the sheet metal. Even my LTL has been repowered but all else is true 53 LTL. Depends on what you want to get and pay for. But you are asking: If you like what you got find some nice sheet metal, be it LTL, B-75, Superliner and mount it on the frame and drivetrain you have already. There are many truck done that way, remember the BRC from Mack? You would have a one and only. There were 6x6 B-models but very few and no 6x6 LTL's. It would certainly be a standout. Just a thought and money ahead.

I bought L and B cab vent window seals from Steele Rubber Products in the past. Along with the window track with whiskers and lower wiper strips. That was 10 years ago. I just looked on their website and they still offer the B Cab vent window seal and window track. It would be worth a call to ask if there are any old stock L cab seals still available. I think I have a set of L cab seals left from the last restoration in good shape. I got new ones and shelved these. It will be a few months before I can get back there to look if anyone is interested?

Don't know what you are asking but the 864 is the worst of all the Mack V8's. The bore and stroke are 5x5.5 for 864 and 5.25x5.0 for the 865/866. E9 is 5.375x5.5. Rod journals are all different. 864 Bad for multiple reasons, first Mack V8, bad heads, bad injection pump, low power, most all non-turbo'ed. These days parts are nonexistent. Sold my last 864, 10 years ago for $400 locked-up and for parts, had the twin turbo set-up and sold that as well. 865/866 are better but still had head issues and the V-pump. E9's good "IF" taken care of. Will make good power but overheating will kill them. Still had head issues. They did have both the V-pump and inline pumps.

Dude, Don't get your wad in a bunch. All that is being said is stock the E9 is formattable. You talk about an E7 which is a good engine. No where have you said you have RUN the E9 truck before having to have MORE POWER. How does the E9 pull compared to the turned up E7? You sound like my son, before he even get to run something he is trying to make it bigger, better, faster, stronger. Going broke trying to do it too. I'm the old man, a hot rodder from before I could legally drive. I keep saying leave it alone but NO he does what he does and Man it is impressive. Only thing it runs for a week or two and BANG, Dad, I broke this one too. All to impressed the outer Guys that just laugh and say let us know when you get it back to getter so they can laugh again! All said He is the fastest and coolest for a short time. Meanwhile I'm in my stock truck driving be him week after week. Even being asked if he can use my truck, HELL NO!! You want to know how to turn it up I told you to go back and read some of my past post, it is ALL THERE. Think even part numbers and specs to do it. So get off your horse and come down to earth and talk to us old farts. You what the knowledge be a little humble. Yes, My Superliner is turned up 1500hp at the flywheel, 1150hp/4000ft/lbs to the ground. It was done to Steve Trevitz, the Godfather of the E9 at Mack. He did all the HP mods for the tanks, marine, land speed, E9s. Single turbo, double and quad turbo setups. A lot of that knowledge is gone when he passed away. The Superliner is a single turbo EX-sled puller, had to turn it down to pull a trailer, way down. So as I said I work on it more time than I drive it, and for what? To roll coal, dust (literally) any car with less than 500hp, pull a house down. Not many people care anymore. Get a new High Output 500/1200 as I did and have a blast and it is under warranty! It has more than any chipped Powerstroke that I had before and is stock. The Old E9 when the water intercooler as on it. 13mm inline, 94mm turbo. Had to turn it down to pull the trailer and other trucks to shows. Dropped valves, wasted turbos, trashed heads, replaced pistons and sleeves, etc. $$$ and time. Just so you know a Mack Trans will not shift above 2500rpm, so you better be in the right gear first. 6.7 Powerstroke

Well that depends on several things. How much do you have to spend? Can you do your own work? Is there emissions testing where you are at? The V-pump is what you have on that 1988 E9 and can go to 650 and that is about it but at a cost. That is where the cost and doing your own work comes in. Parts are scarce these days and big $$$ if found. You will break it or the trans, clutch, diffs, driveshaft, etc. Better have a spare engine or two for parts. If that does not scare you this has to not be your money maker and "The Spare Truck" as reliability will not be there, not to mention a one driver truck. even at 500hp. In the wrong hands this truck will be down more than running. This is from personal experience. Find some of my past post on the E9s for some education. My RW is really tuned up but rarely out without having to work on it.

I have those fiberglass flairs on my RW and they where from AU. I have the 425 floats on the front. This as like 10 years ago the cost was approx $400 for the flairs and $650 for the UPS shipping. So if you want them plan on over double that cost today.

Vlad, Think these are the Wheels you are referring to. They are Accu-Ride not Alcoa. They were an option on the Ford 9000 back when? I had to have then reworked for stud pilot from hub pilot so they would work on the old B model. It took some searching 15 years ago to find 10 good 24.5 rims even back then. They have the oval 5 holes but do have the correct wheel contour of the old Alcoa 5 hole split rims. Second photo is for comparison. At a distance you would have to take a second look to see the difference in the holes.

The 88's are definitely V Pumps. The 90 is also with a rare chance of an inline. A photo of the engine will tell all. The inline pumps started to be used in late 90 and the total change over was in 91. The Superliners was gone in 92 and a few of them had the inline. I don't know of but a few conversions to the inline pump over the years. My Sperliner had a whole E9 transplant out of a 93 CL Elite that had the inline pump already. It is a better pump for big HP but there is nothing wrong with a V pump in every other application. The V has 11mm plungers and is good for around 750hp. The inline about 1000hp with standard 12mm plungers. With 13mm plungers the inline is good for 1500hp. I don't know that I would pass on an E9 in a nice truck with ether style pump. If you want it stock at 450-500hp ether will work great and plenty of power. To convert from one pump to another is not that EZ. Either way you have to have custom lines and brackets made as they are discontinues a long time ago.

It should be the Powers steering reservoir that is making all the mess. They leak even on a good day and all the time. The manifolds are rusted so there is no oil just running on them not when this E9 is running. There would be no oil remaining like that after a good days run. Good thing is the manifold seal is more than likely good with that nightly oil covering it. Can't tell what you got until it is running anyway but can speculate here. The big issue with these is breather blow-by and valve guides not oil leaks. If you are looking for a complete E9 I got a whole MH with less that 100K miles and sitting for 20 years. Sell it for less than you are talking for just an engine.

Hi, Did not get that past email. I did send info to your email today.

Hi, You can email me: jeff.caron@aol.com Let me know what you need. Got them all as shown, these are really nice! I did not expect to ship to Australia so shipping cost will be whatever it is with your preferred method.

eBay, Like $10 with free shipping. All you should need is the primer. It is leaking air so loosing the prime.

I did not have a Deere track loader but... Had a Cat 931B track loader with that same pin on Deere backhoe. Used it a lot for building my house, barn and maintaining the 18 acres of woods I had for years. I could not give it away about 5 years ago. Actually Sold for $2000 made me Sick but went for Scrap price. It looked good and did not need even paint. There was Noting wrong with it but age. It did not have ROPS and that was a issue. It had a 4&1 bucket as well. Rebuild tracks, new shoes, new sprockets, new oversized hinged lower mouth bucket, Engine with 250 hours, drive clutches, brakes. Hoe needed bushings but dug anything I wanted. Only used about 4 gallon of fuel and hour. Always started and ran well even when it was close to freezing. You do not want to drive a track loader on frozen ground or snow!! It was the perfect machine for anything around the property. With that 4&1 hauling firewood & taking out tree stumps was a piece of cake. You can hook a log splitter up to the hydraulic hoe lines and just leave the engine idle and split anything. Could really carry about 2 1/2 tons in the extended bucket with the hoe on the back, needed the counter balance weight. Open the bucket and push like a Dozer. If I still had property it would be the machine to have. These older machines are not hard to work on just heavy parts and big wenches. Cat charges $$$ for parts but only thing I sent out was the engine block to get bored and line honed when it was rebuilt. Weight came up here The 931B with hoe was 22,000lbs. The Deere should be no more than 16-17,000. You should be able to haul this on a 20,000 tilt bed equipment trailer. Think the hoe pins are 1 1/2" Dia. Just get round bare stock and drill the ends for carter or spring pins.

That certainly looks like it is Bi-metal with a large radius. It maybe a piece off a well worn crankshaft thrust bearing. The rear side bearing does wear especially with a stiff clutch and being held down for extended periods of time. This could be the outer lip that is generated as the crank wears into the bearing. Crank walk and adjusting the clutch would be a sign of this.

You both know that Mike passed away, Right? Sorry to let the administrator & moderator of this forum know of Passed events.

I lived in Cleveland at that time but did not see that truck. If you are wanting info on the RW/E9 swap I maybe able to help. My current Superliner stared life with 6 cylinders and grew some balls around 2005. The swap was done at Madison Mack and build primarily for sled pulling. Since then it has been retired and turned down to pull a trailer to an occasional show with some other Mack's on the deck. You need some Mack V8 or valve cover emblems let me know.

I have posted in the past on these emblems that have been in the works for 4 years. Finally they are finished and ready to ship. These emblems only came on the 1993 Elite CL and impossible to find originals for almost any price. These were on the valve covers of the E9 black engines and maybe on the E7-400's not sure. The only way to get them was on the valve covers, there was no Mack part number for only the emblems. A lot of time effort and $$ went into getting these done and they tuned out Great. I am using several sets on my E9's and have some for sale. $125 each, $20 shipping. Free shipping or gift for 2 or more, you will like the gift. PM me if interested There are 3 finishes to choose from This is the way the back comes. The pins can be cut off to use 3M emblem tape. Drilled and taped 8-32 thread or use speed nuts. 0.270 inch OD. Original emblem the molds were made from.

The emblems are as accurate as can be. The bottom emblems are the originals. Take a look at the pins compared to the top 4 emblems, they are the same spacing even with the taper to start the kwik-nuts, they are a direct fit. I have original emblems with the pins broken off, one of the reasons for making these. 3M high bond tape works great if the pins are missing, cut-off or drilling is an issue. I have mounted emblems with 3M tape for years. All newer car emblems are mounted with the 3M high bond material.

Finally got the V8 emblems to the finish line after 4 years. Through Covid, bad molds, supply chain logistics issues, companies going out of business everything has been experienced doing these emblems. The end result is Excellent and a Great recreation of the originals. You will be hard pressed to tell the difference. The Original emblems the molds are made from are on the bottom of each photo. Both the Silver & Gold finish is very nice but I will not guarantee the finish for outdoor exposure. If exposed to the elements they will need chromed. They are electro-plated, environmentally friendly, as chrome was not an option without even more hassles. I have had the original emblems rechromed for $25 each as they were gold originally so not an issue to have these Chromed. Heavy weight not pot metal as most recreations emblems are. If you have tried to get these from Mack they had the price at $95 each 25 years ago. I have seen them go on eBay for $200 plus each and pitted. Price is $100 each with free shipping on (2) or more emblems and ready to ship now. I can do CCards. PM me if interested. Thanks for looking.

Only place I know of is Frances Engineering in Painesville Ohio. I got a set a few years back from there. He certainly has more. Google it to get the phone number. Talk to Dale.

A mechanical tach can be used on any size engine or cylinder count. They all rotate at a standard RPM rate so any tach will read the same. On an E9 the V-pump is mechanical with the tach drive on the front of the auxiliary drive housing inline with the injector pump. The inline pumps are electronic tach's with the pickup on the flywheel. A solution is adding a sensor and pickup on the harmonic balancer and go with a new electronic tach.

Nice to see that replica interiors will be available. Put me down for a black kit provided that the stitching is the double 3/8 width with corner radius as the original heat set vinyl with proper chrome door trim. Normally the head liner has the fine holes and not solid, is that part of the production kits? I was looking at doing kits but COVID killed that and production equipment was sold.

Yes, as I said "tweaking" causes issues! Junk that engine at that point. It is a lot harder to do that to an E9 but plenty of those got junked from turning them up to far. Ever seen one pop head bolts? Not hard to do.

There are a lot of "ifs" to consider with getting more power out of a factory rated engine. Tons of time has be engineered into them for power, durability, reliability, etc. Knowing this I went to Mack, years ago, to get a few answers from the master engineer of the E9, Steve Trevitz. Haven't talked to him in years "retired" but getting more out of an engine usually takes little for a 50-75hp/250-300 torque gain. That is all you should be looking for, because "tweaking" causes other issues. Standard injectors are fine for this gain. I can say that the the Military/Marine Mack injectors are for 200hp plus gains with a lot of other modifications. All that you need is a new S300 Borg Warner turbo, same size as what you got. Turbo technology over the last 25 years is incredible. You will get a lot more boost out of it. Have your fuel "at a pump shop" increased 15%. Maybe add a few degrees timing. Pyro gage, That is all. Along with head studs a light right foot and keep an eye on coolant temp, cracked heads will happen with heat. NO stabbing the throttle, epecially unloaded, you will snap the crankshaft. Have a good clutch and just you driving it, not a multi-driver engine now. Guys get drunk on power and this engine will have a very short life.

PM Sent