AZB755V8

Setting the valve lash is the same as an E9 except you do not have set the bridge first. There is no bridge on a 2 valve ENDT865. Lash clearances is listed on the valve cover tag. Got both engines and set valves real EZ as long as you can bar the the engine over, both with Dynatard. Don't worry if the Tard does not work, it is useless anyway on both engines. By the way the E9 head gasket will not work on the ENDT865/866 series engines, Different bore and fire ring diameter. 865 gaskets are still available at least in Australia I am told from Mack. END864 is totally different as well.

I like the Green leaker but when it had the Maxidyne, that was PURE SEX on wheels and all Why Oh Why did the swap happen?

No snow in the Phoenix valley, elevation 1100 ft.. Whiteriver is only 30 mile up the mountain from Phoenix. I see snow when I want to. Go from 80-90 degrees in Phoenix to 10 degrees in Flagstaff in 1.5 hours, 120 miles, 80 MPH average, to ski, Snow Bowl slope, it runs 9:00am-5:00pm, when back down the mountain and jump in the pool at night at 80 again. Best of both worlds.... True the only time my 2007 F-350 Dully was in the snow was in Flagstaff several times and when I went back to Ohio for Christmas one year. Funny these people can not drive in the rain or snow, I was having a blast in snow and 4 wheel drive being from Ohio. As I said there is no rust or bastard bolts to torch off. Working on this stuff is just like it came from the factory. But as soon as you expose it to water and salt it's rust clock starts ticking. In the Saturn car thing, those body panels are plastic not metal. Bought one for the father-in-law, Worked on a few back in Ohio, looked good but under the plastic the metal body structure rusted like hell, plastic kept the moisture in. Sort of like Tupperware. Pontiac Fiero, wife first car, the car from hell as I called it, was the same plastic skin and rot from underneath. Get rid of the moisture and the rust and corrosion will stop. My brother got my 1998 F-350 in 2008 from me here. In 5 years he was asking me to find doors and tailgate. Wheel well lips were rusted through and exhaust was gone.

That maybe true up in the mountains but not around here. Of course bringing back a vehicle from a low moisture environment to rain and snow, salt is just going to expose it all. There are stone chips, dents, cracked paint, no paint that are no big deal here but back in the rain and snow belt is a death warrant. Sorry, I understood after reading your first question. There is nowhere to get a car that is NOT going to rust or corrode, in the case with aluminum, in 4-5 years in the environment you live. That is even with a new one. Corvette maybe for upper body preservation or move to a different climate to increase overall car life expectancy.

I would say Arizona is the place to pick up a vehicle. Yes there is a lot of sun damage, exposure, to more than a few but far from all. Most higher end cars are perfect, low milage, garage kept and service maintained. I have had fiends come out and drive a few back to Ohio for themselves. I lived there and everything underneath is rust after a few years, after 20 plus years in AZ everything is just as it came from the factory plus a little collected dirt and dust. Had traded a 2007 F350 last year and it was on a truck back East before I drove the new one off the lot. It was great even interior, paint, except for the engine, the reason I traded it. started to leak fuel into the coolant, I put $10k into the engine already. You can more than count on the A/C working good, have original exhaust, etc. There are military and civilian aircraft stored out here for a reason, no corrosion due to low moisture. Tires, hoses, belts, bad fuel are a different issue even stored inside over time. Best thing is no mildew or interior smell. Original age is a trend here now, patina and faded paint, interiors, is something that guys pay big money to replicate. Some even strip the paint and want the rain and sun do its thing. Not my taste but desirable to some. Got to admit at shows these guy's alway have someone to talk to about a clean original survivor. The foe paint and aging not so much.

Sorry for you loosing a good friend. I can totally relate, with my St Bernard gone now for 4 weeks. He lived a great life and made it to past 11 years old. His Australian Shepard buddy is lost for the time being. Funny but the things that you talk about that were a bother are the first things you miss. The snoring, farting, tripping over him at the bedroom door at night, wolfing down food, scaring the crap out of people that came to the front door and in my case in the pool everyday of the year and try to come in the house soaking wet. Swore I would never get another big dog but now waiting on a litter of pups to be born in a week and pick out one or two. I feel your lose.

The evaporator coil is in the air box under the dash. The condenser coil is mounted in front of the radiator or a Grilldenser. Maybe a little confusion there. i did have to find the one condenser coil that matched the size I had to fit it into. The CL 700 parts worked perfectly and I did have to tell the parts guy to special order it. Just as You said the current part as a little different in size sometimes. The new part I used was smaller and does work better in the RW. I used the Red Dot parts that are currently made and sold by the OEM, Red Dot, and others that cross reference them. Mack may not have them but Red Dot or Kysor made the units for Mack and still stock or cross reference most of the parts. Changing over to R134 takes different parts than what came on pre 1993 R-12 systems and a little retro-fitting is required.

The evaporator coil is the same, I just had mine tested for $20 and reused. This is what the parts look like installed. Just cap your Grilldener ports and reroute the lines to the condenser mounted under the air2air. Part numbers for: Pump, Condenser, Dryer and showing expansion valve. Installed with new Condenser, Dryer, High pressure switch, New high pressure lines. Don't forget to get the high pressure tap in your hose fitting, I did the first time. (red cap) New pump, was shinny until running in rain for a couple of hours. Get low pressure tap in hose fitting. (blue cap) n New condenser mounted under the air2air between radiator and hood bracket. Driver side view of condenser. Plenty of room but I did move the radiator back 1 inch. It was not needed with this version of condenser coil that is thinner than older ones.

To convert system is replacing the condenser coil in the grill, expansion valve, pump, high pressure switch, dryer and higher pressure lines. Use the same evaporator coil and everything else. I had the Grilldenser used in the 88 Superliners and switched to the 94-96 CL700, R134 condenser which fit perfectly under the air to air engine intercooler, smaller and works better. I used the original Grilldenser the first time with R134 pump and other parts, it worked but not well and seized up the pump after a year. This time I installed the new condenser coil, used the A/C this past week and could not keep it on high fan for long, it is cold! If you need part number I have the invoices, let me know. Whole thing with parts and R134 charge was around $1100. The name of the place is APPAK not appax. Phone: 602-254-1116. Great customer service.

I just went through the A/C in a 1988 RW and converted the R-12 system to R-134. APPEX in Phoenix was a big help with all the parts and had most in stock. You will have the old R-12 if not converted already.

I was just at the ATHS show in Reno this past weekend and the owner of the Overdorp F Model gave this to me. Nice guy and we talked a little. The magazine is for their Mack fan club sort of like the old Overdrive magazine used to be. I can not translated but Tekno stands out as the manufacture.

No can do on this engine, no puff limiter and boost is less than 12 psi max on the twin turbo set-up. Clear no smoke exhaust, Pump needs turned up plus turbo boost is low. Injectors may be fine but that old spider pump need to put out more fuel. Then worry about turbos and boost psi. For hobby I would not worry about low power unless you plan on pulling 32 tons to a show. Check pump timing as it can be off wit not enough advance.

I would like to see that but todays OTR are not going to be OK with rubber rear suspension and and a 30 year old Dog. Nice truck but needs to stay a dump and be saved.

Sounds a little strange to be triple framed, 54K rear and have air ride. Definitely a special spec truck if it is. That heavy spec it will be geared low, maybe 60mph max.

I did talk to the Mack engineer that got the 4 valve heads on the E9 and got the story on the Big 6 and E9. The Big 6 was in development and had lower end durability issues. The END865 was in production and most all the bad problems worked out over years of production. It was deemed easier and faster to use the big 4 valve head on the aging V8 than to continue development on the Big 6. The V8 was increase to 998 cu/in, the new 4 valve heads installed, lower end crank and oiling beefed up and all came to be the E9. It came down to using what was there and not starting from scratch. Mack knew they needed a big engine and the E9 was it. Glad it was produced in number and made big power.

Yes parts are still available. The oil pumps normally do not go bad in the E9. The pressure relieve spring does over time. It wears the side of the spring in the housing and pressure is reduced as a result. Dale Frances Engineering in Painsville Ohio has all the parts from Mack when they cleared out Hagerstown. 440-254-4046 I know he has the springs, I got 2 last year. PAI is a good source to.

Just think about it... There is no one that would have anything like it, period! Endless cost, not many people alive to work on it or run it, no parts available, no place to even fire it it up without causing a seen. Sort of like old trucks, I'm in lets start a pool, I got a $100 to through in. Oh, it takes two days and a couple of thousand bucks in fuel oil or coal just to get it hot enough to move if the boiler is certified and have some track to run it on. Maybe a static display wouldn't be out of the question. Great lawn ornament??

A Mack LTL and a W71 both had been restored around 2000 and both are two of the nicest restorations around still. Both powers by a 275 Supercharged Cummins.

I would agree if the truck was still a working dog. But being a retired truck and having an easy life now a little smoke every now and then is OK, just like farting in the wind for an old guy. Smoking a cigar would be out of the question for old guys like me but I do it anyway, I earned it. In my state and I think Dan's as well collector vehicles with collector insurance are emissions exempt. No pay for hauling permitted, just shows and transporting the others in the collection. I am glad to see a 30+ year old dog rolling down the road these days even if it smokes a little and it not used everyday, it earned the right to still be around and running. You do know that none of the "old" trucks we still have will pass today's emission standards. They are all grandfathered in for emissions if they are still working dogs I think except for California and need to be brought up to Cal, standards with after treatments or the truck removed from the state permanently. No disrespect intended

Just doing an A/C change over on my 88 RW now. Depending on the year of your truck you will have to change out most of your system anyway. Before 1993 R-12 was used and is now on its way permanently out, R-12 is no longer made and the price is on the clime for it. R-134A is what is the norm and was mandated to be used in 1994 and newer stuff. The only thing that was reusable was the A/C core in the air box. New valve, hoses, compressor, condenser, dryer and high pressure switch are needed. Total cost on parts is about $800 plus labor. It is all Red Dot parts to do the retro fit. The back wall Red Dot unit would have to have all these parts if you have an R-12 system. If it is a 134A system it would be the unit and longer lines (which are pricey, $360 for my system) provided nothing else is wrong. I have heard the back wall units work much better than the under dash ones. The only thing is that room is already tight in an R model cab so I went the way I did because of space not function. At the same time I put in sound and heat insulation in the cab and doors to help with well, sound and heat. It is suppose to be good to lower the temp about 15 degrees and sound 10 Db. I will see when the truck goes to the ATHS show in a few weeks.

Introductions are in order for first timers, Welcome! Nice project, Automatic would be the way to go over manual to it. The HT740/750's are way to much trans for that engine, total over kill. MT or HT 640/650 series are even big. You would be looking for the older cable shift trans, no electronics for simplicity. There are several different ratio 4 and 5 speeds to chose from. You do get one more speed out of them when the converter locks up so a 4 acts like a 5 and so on. There are usually government rebuilds for sale on the net. Prices are all over the place. Second approach, school bus DT466 & Allison trans would be more what you need and easy to find as a unit with electronics.

Hi, I have an R Model drivers door shell, new aftermarket same as from Jones supply and others when available. I have used these doors on my truck. This door is damaged, take a close look as it is dented about inline with the handle and right above belt line by handle. It was damaged in shipment to me. It would take an hour or two to get it right but usable as is, no rust just dented. Good for a work truck and has work truck price $150 plus shipping.

I have said the same thing related to the E9's I mess with. It isn't that they can't make a lot more than stock HP. The Mack engineers had the recipes for more power but reliability, durability and environmental issues capped HP. Not to mention beefing up transmissions and rears to handle the extra torque.They did a good job at keeping those "secrets" I mentioned before that make everything work. Volvo killed anything and everything that may have been archived years ago. It's all gone at least at Mack!! OH, Ya come to think Mack is gone for the most part to!!

If boost comes on like that you certainly have enough and look else were for power. The little mods are the secrets and are hard to find, but make it all work. To much timing is not good and may not be the issue. EGT will get to 1050plus easily, but you have mod'ed it to get more boost, something has to offset the gain. The factory setup is meant to be conservative. There are more than a few issues with the directions you are going. It is like having 5 people in the kitchen to make a cake and each in charge on one ingredient. The chances of screwing it up is pretty good as no one knows the whole recipe. Then add an oven that isn't quit right. I am only into mechanical set-ups, no electronics (old school). Then the guys into tuners, then a hybrid of both. To many different approaches will end in disaster. That said, your issue is fuel delivery. It is a combination of volume and duration. In both Mech and Elec most big mod'ed fuel systems, pump, injectors, lines, do not operate at max capacity but peak efficiency. A matched 13 or 14mm pump/injectors,etc will not be set to max flow but flow to crankshaft duration which is critical, shorter is better, longer will just make a lot of smoke. This should be able to be corrected with programing your ECM, but not many places doing that, just add on blixxton or such. Going Mech is going backwards (old school) and less tunable. Few people have the time, understanding and money to get a mod'ed engine to work to expectations, then work it everyday without issues and downtime. No emissions where you run, at least for the 99?

A 2.50x8 thread cap will not fit a 2x11.5 thread. The right brass cap is $26 at AlumiTank. Just helping but some guys make it hard to be helped.