AZB755V8

Introductions are in order for first timers, Welcome! Nice project, Automatic would be the way to go over manual to it. The HT740/750's are way to much trans for that engine, total over kill. MT or HT 640/650 series are even big. You would be looking for the older cable shift trans, no electronics for simplicity. There are several different ratio 4 and 5 speeds to chose from. You do get one more speed out of them when the converter locks up so a 4 acts like a 5 and so on. There are usually government rebuilds for sale on the net. Prices are all over the place. Second approach, school bus DT466 & Allison trans would be more what you need and easy to find as a unit with electronics.

Hi, I have an R Model drivers door shell, new aftermarket same as from Jones supply and others when available. I have used these doors on my truck. This door is damaged, take a close look as it is dented about inline with the handle and right above belt line by handle. It was damaged in shipment to me. It would take an hour or two to get it right but usable as is, no rust just dented. Good for a work truck and has work truck price $150 plus shipping.

I have said the same thing related to the E9's I mess with. It isn't that they can't make a lot more than stock HP. The Mack engineers had the recipes for more power but reliability, durability and environmental issues capped HP. Not to mention beefing up transmissions and rears to handle the extra torque.They did a good job at keeping those "secrets" I mentioned before that make everything work. Volvo killed anything and everything that may have been archived years ago. It's all gone at least at Mack!! OH, Ya come to think Mack is gone for the most part to!!

If boost comes on like that you certainly have enough and look else were for power. The little mods are the secrets and are hard to find, but make it all work. To much timing is not good and may not be the issue. EGT will get to 1050plus easily, but you have mod'ed it to get more boost, something has to offset the gain. The factory setup is meant to be conservative. There are more than a few issues with the directions you are going. It is like having 5 people in the kitchen to make a cake and each in charge on one ingredient. The chances of screwing it up is pretty good as no one knows the whole recipe. Then add an oven that isn't quit right. I am only into mechanical set-ups, no electronics (old school). Then the guys into tuners, then a hybrid of both. To many different approaches will end in disaster. That said, your issue is fuel delivery. It is a combination of volume and duration. In both Mech and Elec most big mod'ed fuel systems, pump, injectors, lines, do not operate at max capacity but peak efficiency. A matched 13 or 14mm pump/injectors,etc will not be set to max flow but flow to crankshaft duration which is critical, shorter is better, longer will just make a lot of smoke. This should be able to be corrected with programing your ECM, but not many places doing that, just add on blixxton or such. Going Mech is going backwards (old school) and less tunable. Few people have the time, understanding and money to get a mod'ed engine to work to expectations, then work it everyday without issues and downtime. No emissions where you run, at least for the 99?

A 2.50x8 thread cap will not fit a 2x11.5 thread. The right brass cap is $26 at AlumiTank. Just helping but some guys make it hard to be helped.

Try AlumiTank they have all the caps plus make some really nice tanks!! https://www.alumitank.com/parts/fuelcaps.php

There is probably not a lot of people to talk to about swapping turbo's on anything. Good luck if you find someone and then get them to work with you. I was alway told it is a liability thing. Antrim would be the experts at getting the turbo and other adjustments right. I have a S500-91 on my E9 and had to down size the housing to get it to spool lower at 1200RPM. I would actually like to get it down to 900, and closer to stock, but already have the smallest split housing for that turbo. There is plenty of air with a S475 even with the smaller housing. It just gives a larger RPM range to use. Had a Holset T50 before but it would not spool until 1700RPM, truck was used mainly for sled pulling. It would not pull a trailer at at cruse speed, alway had to drop a gear to get it to build boost then hang on.

If you have the old line Columbus Diesel can make one for you. You have to give them the length, ID and OD diameter. They will need your old fittings and spacers to put on the new line. The line will come straight and you will have to bend it to match the original. If all else fails it is way to get one. Dale Frances Engineering in Painsville Ohio would probably have one. Give his shop a call.

Just did a quick check on the BW 171702. It is available new $759. Just get it from a turbo shop, it will not be Mack but you can tune it. It comes with a 1.32 A/R turbine housing just as the one you have. If yours is a bit laggy go down to the 1.15 A/R housing and it will pull better than your 93. Boost will come on at 200-300 lower RPM's and it may make more boost than your current BW475 so be carful. Total with 1.15 housing should be around $1000. Have fun!!

Pump timing is nothing to play with and think it is right. I admit I do advance the timing a few degrees in my stuff but after that it can lead to big problems. This guy had the timing way off and the truck ran like a wild dog for a short time but putting a hole in a piston with just timing, it must have been a whole lot?? Know piston failure can be done with more fuel and added timing to it. Just for my education, I learn from BMT also.

Normally the delivery valve is removed and a old holder and old cut injector line are used. The "dump" tube method is used to check timing this way. This can be done with compressed air and a glass jar with water in it. When the flow goes to a bubble using air that is port closure. Using fuel and a little pressure the flow will go to a drop. I have not heard of setting timing with the #1 delivery valve in place by just turning the pump to get pressure and flow. I can say it is over 1000psi to open a delivery valve. There are other ways to check timing on a Bosch pump but it is done with a timing light tool. Most Mack engine manuals have a few pages on the different ways to set timing as well. Hope this helps.

Oil pressure is not an uncommon problem with a lot of engines. I was making a little fun of adding 90 weight, do not do, but if all else is OK the fix is lower end bearings and pump spring. Not knowing any more about your engine or service, maintenance that can add to the issues the fix is straight forward and would take about a day or so to do labor wise. The V8's were harder on bearings than the I6's and if not replaced at every 250K the engine would be toast. If done with proper scheduled maintenance a million miles before rebuild could be had on the V8. Some others here would probably say a longer interval on a bearing roll on the 6 cylinder engines. I think 670k miles is pushing it though.

Roll in some new main and rod bearings. Probable has over 500K miles on it. Oil pressure is OK at 1650RPM so pump should be fine just replace pressure spring. Or... put some 90 weight in it and the pressure should go up for awhile....😀

Yes it can be done but I would say the bumper is the least of your things to find. There are 3 brackets that are needed to make the center tow pin work. The flush mount brackets can not be used with the extended bumper. They are lighter duty items and the extended bumper brackets are massive compared to them. The photos are of a Superliner II and a CL713 which is very similar if not the same except for bit of extended frame in front on the CL. The brackets from a Superliner II or CL713 will work the bumper narrows at the ends on a Superliner and is straight on a CL. I am considering the same bumper switch, the actual bumper is the easy part.

Looks like Allen Nelson's LT. Think that is the one with an E9 in it. Probably not even working it hard, just a stroll in the park. 👍

I got one for Superliner II that I will be selling with rectangular light holes. Real nice chrome steel maybe stainless, it shines real good and next to new, I'm sure not alumiclad. No corrosion, rust or bends. Just need it for the next month or so. I am thinking of going to the Macungie Show in June and can have it there. $400 OBO with free ride

Think you might be looking for a long time. There are engine manuals and chassis manuals. But there are no installation manuals for DIY engine swaps. The only manual is here at BMT and it is all the guy's knowledge. This is why this site is what it is. The information is stored in the minds of men that have worked on these now old trucks. It is information that is slowly becoming obsolete along with all the old iron. A transplant with a totally mechanical engine can be done but you better know someone or have someone do it if you don't know how. Better to buy a Superliner with an E9 in it already. It is not just the engine needed but, bigger radiator, intercooler, possibly clutch and transmission to consider. Not to mention all the brackets, hoses and tubing needed. Just finding all the parts needed will take years to accumulate to actually do it right. The cost of all this extra stuff will be more than a good running take out E9 then add labor that will not be cheap if you can find someone willing to do it. One thing for sure is everything is real big, heavy, greasy, dirty and rusty to work with and not a beginner mechanic's first project. Hope it happens though

How many years did it sit there to grow all that Green hair? It surly would be a thumper with that KTA Cummins turned up to 600HP. Was it abandon or just enjoying retirement growing old in the arms of Mother Nature?

It will be fine as a hobby truck. No real load on it and low mileage per year, it will be a perfect candidate for hobby and cool factor. I have an ENDT 866 in my B model and have had only little problems other than putting miles on it in a year. A few little fixes but no real new parts needed, don't let that scare you. If you get it put new rod and main bearing in it and a new oil pump spring, just as Lmackattack said. It would be nice to see another V8 stay running and taken care of.

See you are a newby here. Welcome... You did see that post you are asking about is 6 1/2 years old... Right... The inline pumps are hard to find these days. If you do find one be prepared to pay for it. Most know what they are worth and going for on here. The marine and military E9's rated over 750hp had the inline pump with 13mm plungers. The standard E9 inline had 12mm plungers. The V pumps had 11mm plungers. You want an inline pump call Dale Frances Engineering in Painesville, Ohio. He has the military inline pumps and a few pumps off pulling trucks for sale. No deals and not cheap.. but he has them.

I has a Cat 931B for years. It was a real handy machine for just about anything. Had a 4 in 1 bucket and pin on John Deere 16 foot removable hoe on the back. It sat for the last ten years I had it and leased the house and barn. Put a fresh battery in it a shot of ether and it fired right up every time. It was stored inside most of the time I had it. Rebuilt the engine, undercarriage, drive clutches and brakes... over the years. Sold it for $2000 after owning it for 25 years, no one wanted it, had descent paint on it to. Ran fine and still could move a lot of dirt around. Funny but use to be working it with the girl I was dating sitting to one side, Ya know sort of like that Green tractor song, over 25 years ago. We'll be married 25 years in May. Actually got my first Mack to pull it around in the early 90's.

Don't know about an RD frame. The RW and MH and CL frames are wider at the front to fit the E9 engine. There were some DM's with E9's as well. A strait frame may not work as is but anything is possible. Even the aluminum frame waistcoats E9 trucks had the front part of the frame wider.

I will be trying to make door panels in the next few months. The machine being used to do most of the work just got fixed this week. The panels will be embroidered for the inserts not heat set like originally done and be very hard to see any difference. Original style, solid and perforated, naugahyde material will be as close to original as possible. I am after the original look but original NEW panels have not been available for over 10 years, in any color. Colors I will make are, black, tan and maybe, red, gray. I am not planning on making a lot of these but we will see how it goes. If well maybe a whole interior kit.

Not mentioned yet. While you have the oil pump off put a NEW pressure relieve spring in the pump. It is a $15 part that does fail over time. Just a good precaution.

That Lizard Skin is really good stuff and You defiantly have the history the facts. The Arizona connection a little funny. In the summer on a black or dark color car you can cook an egg on the hood or roof with no problem. My kids left string cheese on the car fender in the sun, it melted and stripped the paint under it. Heat is a issue here and I did not know that the LS was so good at controlling it. I Already have the mats on the inside of the cab and will consider putting it on the under side of the cab for heat. Wonder if the LS could be sprayed to the back side of the interior panels and stick to the cardboard to help with heat? It would be cleaner and faster than masking and spraying the interior of the cab. Could probably roller it on and get a good result. I will be using it on the inside the the hood and fenders.