AZB755V8

Pete, It would be easier if you would post what you got as most here do not have a Type 45 fire engine parked out back to compare. But we may have an idea were to get or match up the light you are after.

Keep hearing about shipping cost killing deals on trucks. There is a company that totes around ambulances and service trucks for disaster areas. They do fill in transport for stuff like we mess with. When I had my B-755 shipped from PA to AZ the cost was a $1.00 a mile as one of his trucks was deadheading back this way. Thought it was a good deal. Got a 26 foot long frame from Denver to Phoenix hauled for $600. A little less than $1.00 a mile. I could not get my truck there and back for that money. Anyone need the info PM me and I can dig it up, Think it was, Kansas City Transport. Guy's name was Stan.

I am using the Lizard skin or similar for doing under the whole fiberglass hood and fenders to quit things and get a good look. There are a lot of spray-in bed liner shops around here as well. "They put that shit on everything". There are whole $50-60k Jeeps running around Arizona covered with that stuff. The inside of the Mack cab is a little different, I use that mat stuff that is $68 a pack not the $190 DuraMat over priced stuff. Used it in my LTL restoration and really does work. There was no rust in the cab just a few mount and wire holes to weld up. The Superliner cab is the same, no rust. Arizona is real kind to metal parts even for 30-50 year old trucks. No need to seal anything here for moisture. The spray stuff just does not come off even if a metal modification needs done or to show the condition of the metal to Guys at a show. It is good stuff though.

Getting my 3 trucks ready to go. Will be there Thursday- Saturday. RW, B, LTL.

This Black panel is what I am looking for, just like in my Superliner. I can digitize any logo and embroider it on any material, that is part of my business. Just trying to find the panels before I go though all the work to get something close to original. If I do, is there any interest in me doing more for a few others? Not thinking of the whole interior but that is a possibility since the whole interior is out of my truck to Dynamate it to quit it down and lower the temp on hot days. Got the patterns....

This has been brought up before but I hope there are panels available now, new, aftermarket or used. Door panels came in several different colors and maybe a few styles for the R Cab doors. I "Had" a really good set in my Superliner until yesterday when I remover the passenger seat. Covered the door seal and aluminum trim with a towel and tore the 30 year old vinyl lower door panel with the mounting plate edge still bolted to the seat upon exiting the truck. I have called all my sources for a good used set as both sides have to match, of course. This included the local, only Mack dealership in Phoenix, several Mack bone yards, even Barry at Watt's. Parts are obsolete and have been for years in any color. All I want is a Black set in good condition without taking these to an upholstery shop to try and match up. Original manufacture is out of business so is there any of these panels laying around somewhere? If not mine have to go and the bottom portion under the trim band be reupholstered. I never noticed but the ones I have do not match from side to side in the first place. One side has 4 centered buttons in the lower details the other side has none.

Introductions are in order being a virgin to BMT. Welcome More info is needed. But first if you have a primer on the fuel pump have you pumped until it starts to get a little harder to pump them try and start? Check the fuel lines for cracks or lose fittings that let air into the system. This will cause the prime to be lost. If it is the charge pump it usually come on slow and gets harder to start over time. Same with a bad secondary fuel filter. There are several post here about E9 fuel pump issues recently. Have you read any of them first? Sort of like the answer is here you just have to search and read before asking the same question

I was in the same position as you years ago. I was allowed to use the machinery in the shop i worked at after hours on my own stuff. Had the same issues or guys just tying up machines to be Dicks. Go to HGR Industrial Surplus in Cleveland and get a nice used lathe and Bridgeport. You will ask yourself why you didn't do it years ago. Got a nice Brown & Sharp surface grinder $600 and a Do-All saw $900. A servo drive Monarch EE toolroom lathe for $1600. Just the convention from tube drive was $20,000 to have done.They were made for over 60 years and super accurate. Best thing I ever did for myself.

I heard both stories on what the Gold bulldog meant. I had gold V8 emblems on one truck and it was a 1972 Maxidyne. Wonder if that is what it meant as well. The Gold color on the Maxidyne engines is what I remember but as Rob is saying they quit using Gold and went to other colors apparently because of an EPA issue.

I did not hear the story why Mack quit using GOLD on the Maxidyne engine or was it at the end of the actual Maxidyne engine run? The old v8's, silver was Thermodyne and Gold was Maxidyne. Before that the color was a green drab that was on most mack engines up to 1965 or so. I do remember the blue, red, gray and black engines and a few copper.

Hauled Coca-cola, That explains the Red with White mustache paint. More than likely never had any rust.

There is no need for funning back and forth like I started. What you are doing is way out of the "normal" trucking, with permits, escorts, DPS involvement , etc. just to move 2 feet on a road and take 2 lanes. As implied like a Alaskan bush pilot comparing experiences to a 747 transcontinental air-captain. There is just no comparison. Back to the trans, what is your trans of choice? What is the spec's on your trucks? Who many truck are hooked to a load at one time? Any shock load with that much weight is going to damage some driveline components even with a good driver, it happens I am sure.

What is your empty/ loaded weight? What trans are you using that holds up to your loaded weight and what engine, rears? If you are talking about that monster Fuller 18 speed it will handle more torque and shift better than the Mack trans by a good margin. Is there an auxiliary trans involved as well? Excuse all the questions but curios to your application. "Normal" 80-90K day run loads is what I am used to and talking about.

Really, Junk??? Those 18 speeds are all I got in my trucks with no issues. Have to replace the clutch brake once or twice, a $20 part, but almost indestructible. The trucks went though a few drivers and owners though. Come on face it a real driver can shift a Mack 18 speed with no issues. An old Quad-box would be out of the question and was junk too? All you Road Ranger pansies have syncro's to get the next gear. Guess the next time its an automatic for you Guy's. If it keeps grinding have it looked at but first don't try and shift it fast. Get some seat time, maybe a lot of time, let the rpm's wind down about 350-400 rpm's before going for the next gear. You just can not fast shift a real truck transmission. A Mack triple coutershaft trans does have a learning curve. Yes it would be nice if it fell into gear but then anyone could drive with one. They shift just fine, do need the right touch to drive and a little brains.

Even if you had the parts breakdown it would be of no use, just about all the parts are obsolete. Plus few pump shops still have the ability or knowledge to work on them. It would be fun to see if the Volvo Tech could time the pump after reinstall these days. If after checking lines, if not the issue. It maybe the two plastic valves and springs in the supply pump. Get the number off the supply pump and there still maybe a rebuild kit for it. There was not for mine at the time I had this issue. I took the plastic valves and emery papered the grooves out of them and have not had the issue since. The AMBEC V-Pump itself is not supported be anyone now. I have a few of them and the only thing that I can have done is to re-calibrate pressure, flow and governor. Injector parts are easier to get but these American Bosch replacement parts are hard to come by. Have to say those old V-pumps just keep on going, it is usually something else. It can be the lines, fittings, hand primer seal, injector O-rings, old or bad fuel filter.... There was a post for this same issue awhile back here at BMT and the problem was resolved. Take a look at it so we are not going over the something twice.

Add more fuel and bigger turbo. advance the timing about 5-8 degrees.

Beautiful one of a kind Bighorn! Found it on Hemmings for sale. You got that right a whole crop of cabbage. New cab and all, must have been outside at Chrysler plant for the 35 years until sold in 2010 to need a new cab and full restoration. I would really like to have it but way out of my ballpark. Price: $149,000 Firm

Are you talking english here, heard of Tap Out but not related to a Truck? At 14,000 RPM you are more like running a jet engine or is that a typo?

First what one do you want, Make, slide or solid mount? Were are you located? Shipping would be a lot more than what an old 5th wheel is worth. I Got a Fontaine No Slack slider from early 80's if you want it come get it, for free, going to scrape in a few months. There are a few guys here that have them laying around if I am to far away.

Should have said engine that I ever have seen or heard of in a Mack. That F model looks like it was at the end of the road. As for Big Al's, I have only heard one running the others were broke and parts were very hard to get.

I heard the same thing about the 864 naturally aspirated, it was available in 1962. It was Mack's first BIG HP attempt. That was told to me by a Mack engineer the was involved with the E9. The Twin turbo 864 was available for sale starting in 1966 in F&R models. It is a shame, but truly there are very few of the 7600-8250 of those engines produced that are still running and less than 10 of the twin turbo's for sure. I have seen one or two TT in Mack fire trucks as well. There is only one engine that I know of more rare to see, a Big Al, but was never in a Mack.

That is simply incredible!! The work that has been done and to just start to put it back together now. WOW!! It will be perfect I am sure. Are you keeping track of the hours and cost so far, what is the estimate on the total time and expenses you planned on? My L cab was in great shape to start when I restored it. I had a lot of money, my time and outside labor in it and NO body work was required, You are making a whole new body, just incredible. Is the frame, engine and all else being done to this level as well, it will be priceless!! I am starting to restore an 88 Superliner and almost ashamed to post the project compared to this. Outstanding!!!

If that was the price I got it would be a BIG issue to. Thought my trans guy was a little high for a rebuilt dyno tested Allison at $7000. That is out right with $3000 core charge included. I do need to make an adaptor/ spacer ring between trans and engine, mount shifter. Have the drive shaft reworked for length but that is it. I am doing the trans in and out so just my time and plate of aluminum for spacer. No engine work needed as it is all mechanical. If all you are doing is swapping an existing engine/ trans into your truck that is a real high price in my book. Plus the cost of the donor truck.... No Way. Just keep you combo in that truck and put a good cut-off under the donor truck, if needed, and drive both. You'll be time and a lot of money ahead. Not to mention when you have service done in the future, no one will work on bastardized combo.

Doing the same thing with a HT745CR cable shift behind an E9 at the moment for the simplicity reasons. Don't need the super low first gear but instead using the 777 high torque ratio torque converter. I start now in 5th or 6th gear with an 18 speed and have plenty of torque. Then if all works out drop the rear ratio to 3.42's or 3.11's from 4.17's

The thing that I run in on uploading photo here is file size. I get the error for "now" normal size I-phone size files of 2-3 Megs. I resize with a free app, Photo Size Optimizer, and all my photos work then. There used to be a Windows Office app that worked great on my old computer but with the new improved Windows it was deleted... Google the free one and see if that helps with photo downloading.