AZB755V8

I did see the Eaton website on the torque rating for that trans. That seems incredibly high capacity compared to anything else they offer but they would know. I do have 1880 universals back to the first rear then 1810 between Rockwell rears on my Superliner. I don't think mine came that way but was beefed up for heavy pulling. I don't think the 1880 parts are that common or at lease any more. Saw one CL713 with that big of driveline once doing Texas oil field work.

Well introductions are in order for a virgin here. Welcome to the forum by the way, before you get started by just jumping in. Until more is known... The cheapest fastest way to more power is: 1) Sell your current Mack truck 2) Buy another Mack with a bigger or more powerful engine and maybe a few more gears. 3) Cheapest Fastest way without knowing more of what you are talking about.👍

I don't think that a 1710 yoke will work with a 1810 yoke in the first place. The across cap dimension are 6.094 and 7.547 respectfully. An 1880 is 8.094 across. Get the 1880 on one end and a 1710 on the other end of each driveshaft would work. Doing so would just have a much lower torque rating for the 1710 u-joints. Maybe the Aux Trans has a lower torque capacity as well.

Welcome to the forum! Wow I lived in Mentor for 41 years across from the High School then in Az since. There should be someone here that can help with parts. I think those head lights are similar to the ones on an LT. If you cant find original SoCal Speed Shop has a real nice chrome pair for use on roadsters that are real close and reasonable priced. By the way next time list your parts wanted in the "Parts Wanted" section.👍

The nozzle is the tip portion of the injector body. All injectors have nozzles it does not matter how makes them. You can not just replace the nozzles on the injector body at your work bench. This must be done at a fuel injection shop to get the proper opening pressure and check for spray pattern with new or used parts. If you get the whole injector with nozzles to replace the ones in your engine that would be a lot of money that you do not need to spend. If you just want new nozzles then tell the shop replace then even if they are not bad. That may take time to get them ordered in. Southwest Injection in Phoenix is who I use and they had my injectors cleaned, pattern checked and opening pressure set, back to me the next day. It can't get any faster than that. If your shop takes a week you might tell then to put a RUSH on on it and pay a little more for the RUSH service. Columbus Diesel is a good shop, in Columbus Ohio that I would recommend, talk to Dan there.

The O-rings are the issue, replace them, it is an EZ fix, get the O-rings from a Bosch injection shop. Take the injectors to a Bosch injection shop and have them cleaned and have the opening pressure checked and brought back to factory spec. The opening pressure does change over time and a different shim under the injector spring is all it takes to get it right and setting it with the proper equipment. Let the pump shop tell you if the nozzles need replaced they will check the spray pattern when they are cleaned.

Well all the coolant heaters I have ever used are 110 volt and plug into house or shop current. The heater is an element like used in electric water heater. If you ever noticed the chrome plug on a truck that looks like a trailer connect plug, by the grill or drivers door, it is where the extension cord plugs the heater power into. Go to "engine block heater" on Ebay and look at them and buy on.👍

I was looking back about 15 years ago for one. The only way even back then was to find a transmission with the twin disc clutch input shaft. There is a different bellhousing for the twin disc as well. Not the same as a single disc clutch. Don't know your setup but South Bend Clutch can beef up the springs and use ceramic pucks for better torque capacity for ether clutch.

There is one that looks like that around Twin Arrows Arizona. It can be seen from the 40 to the north. Think it belongs to pawn shop there, it has something painted on. Long shot...

Yes on two O-rings and washer. Some injectors only have two O-ring grooves. I am just putting injectors back in from the pump shop. Newer ones have 2 groove from Turkey, Older ones have 3 grooves from Bosch. This engine was missing and had low RPM idle, one injector was bad out of the 8, it was the one with fuel on top of injector and under the cap... that should solve my issue. Newer injectors have military nozzles, but so did the old ones!! 👍 It's a big bad runnin Puppy.

Thanks for the information on the O-rings. It is more than likely the problem and the least expensive to fix. 👍

I have had fuel on top of the injectors when removing the caps but not enough to get by the treads or raise the oil level. The reason I did it was there was a miss in the engine. In my case it was a bad injector. I need to learn as well here. If the O-rings were bad the only way the fuel would get into the oil would be coming up through the hold down cap treads. The only way that would happen is if there was back pressure in the return lines. Is that correct? Just asking but 3-5 gallon of fuel is a lot to get past something, be it B&P's or O-rings. That is low pressure side of the system. To check the O-rings it would be EZ to put air pressure through the return line and check for bubbles at the caps after valve covers are removed with a little spray of soap.

The issue is fuel getting into the oil not "bypassing oil into the fuel somehow". The injection pump has worn barrels and plungers. They actually put the fuel pressure to the injectors at 4000 psi. You are not going to find a leak with 45 psi of air. The B&P seal with metal to metal and very tight clearance between the two parts. So tight that fuel can not get passed until the parts wear and clearance opens up and leak fuel passed into the oil in the pump which drains back into the engine oil pan. You need a injection pump rebuild or find a good used pump. The charge pump is not the problem. Change the engine oil ASAP, bearing will be going out with that much fuel contamination. By the way WELCOME to BMT!!

There is NO right or wrong here Guys. The fact is that the E9 was a good engine. It did have problems just like any engine. I recently have been talking to Steve Trevitz about my E9 that he personally spec 1500 hp at the flywheel, I have since turned it down a few hundred HP. Yes I have dropped a valve seat... on a Reman head with 18K miles on it. It is known that the press fit on the seats needs to be on the tight side of spec or more. The biggest issue with the E9 was when increasing HP not everything was modified to do so and with operator error bad things happen. This is directly from the MACK engineers mouth... Steve was the E9 engineer from the start of the E9 to the end of the E9 at MACK. Steve is a MACK engineer and still works for MACK... oops... VOLVO now. He was the design engineer of the 4 valve head that turned the 866 plus some cubic inches into the E9 and its variants. I have ask him for some photos and information of the creations that MACK was involved with, there are many. Most of these included multiple turbos, bigger injectors and 13mm pumps. Marine, over the road and military were the main uses. Prototype rated at 360hp, production Rated at 400hp@1800rpm to 900hp@2600rpm with reliability and continuos use in mind right from MACK. I may get info on these engines some day but Steve is to sick to even dig that out at this time, 20 years after production stopped in the USA. No not ill but the engine had so much potential and was abandoned by VOLVO (me saying that not Steve) to promote their 16L engine. With power abound just like the 350 Chevy that started at 170hp and now over 650 hp today from Chevy, well over 1200hp race. If all engineered correctly it is no problem to tune engines up if needed. The fact is that correct information or really any information was not released from MACK to do so. Just to put it to rest the engineering and information was there.... at MACK. On a clutch's, I got a 4400lb LIPE in the Superliner, works great, just a workout to push. I thought it was a beefed up stock clutch with ceramic pads not special. It is cast iron and is NOT a competition unit by todays standards. No cast flywheels or pressure plates in anything but street class pulling now. A multi plate slipper clutch is the way to go for big torque capacity, ask Back in Black, think he has had one for several years now. Dale Frances can get one together with billet flywheel for an E9, $$$

Mack T2100's are defiantly not a fast shifting thing. I like an 18 spd myself because it can be shifted several different ways, 8,12 or 16 depending on the load plus the low hole that is rarely used making 9, 13 or 18 spds. Start skipping or not splitting gears and it seems like forever for the engine to wind down and go into the next gear. You want a throw into gear trans and easier to shift an Eaton is the way to go.

Matt did this truck. It took me 16 years to get all really good parts to put it together. There are 6 donor truck in to this B755. I did not have the time to put it all together and Matt had it for two years if I recall right. 2013 Gerharts was the first time I saw it complete myself. I did a short punch list of "to does" and it was shipped out to Arizona. I have done or am doing the restorations on other trucks myself. Frame from California, Borden Dairy, B773 Engine from Ohio, Kuhnle Brothers Tank Lines, R795 Quadraplex duel plate clutch Transmission fron New Jersey, R719 Cab, hood & radiator, Rears 6.34, from Texas drilling company, B75 4.17 carriers from Ohio, 1967, R719 All mounts and brackets from PA, B755 New fenders, doors, interior & glass from Mack, NOS a lot of little stuff from Tidewater Mack, back in the day. Wheels from Georgia, Ford 1980 vintage. Reworked for stud pilot mounting.

Both of these B-755 are 1965's, wonder how close the serial numbers are between them. Both B & L cabs in B-7xx series were available to end of production in 1966. When I choose the color for the truck the painter really did not want to paint it. He had never used that color on a truck. It tuned out nice and everyone that comments on the color likes it as well, including the painter after it was done. When I got the truck cab from a drilling company out of Texas it was a darker shade of a similar color. Thanks for liking it to.

Nice looking black B, got the cab and hood for mine out of Texas as well, look like what is on the plate. There are more than a few B-755's still around. There was a number of differences from a B-75, mostly to do with raising the cab to fit the engine. Most do not have the original 864 in them anymore. OEM B-755 had the NA 864/255hp. It was Mack's first attempt at bigger HP but the engine was plagued with problems. Then came the twin turbo 864/305hp in 1967 in the R Model. The injection pump was a nightmare! I had a running 864/255 for my B-755 but choose to go with a 866/375hp when it was restored. Most of the bad problems were worked out in the 866 except for constantly cracking cylinder heads.

Thought I has the only "dumb ass" still on AOL. I don't care about any of the crap they flash or headline, I just need email and am to old to change even with a bad thing. Just sayin... still am married for 25 years now, to late to change.... and it still works...

Kind of depends of if you are buying or selling. Selling value way more than it is worth. Buying way less and it is a Deal. In reality it is the history and condition it is in. The value is only as much as someone is willing to pay. There are very few Magnum's still working these days so the value is in the collector market. Without inspecting the truck the range I have seen is between $15,000 to $95,000. One was listed recently for $95K on a Mack resell site. Needless to say that truck was on there for months, don't know if it sold or was taken off for no interest at that price. If this truck is nice and needs no real work $40-50K would be a fare price only because it is a Magnum. That is without adding the emotional attachment value that can add zero to $$$. If the engine needs rebuilt or has transmission/rears, problem that can be a $10-20K or more repair alone. Nice looking and desirable Mack from the photo!! So what is the price? Are there more photos and information?

Thanks for the info. Sorry for asking but what is a "mob"? Is it man or guy here in the US? That chromed badge price is almost right on for what I was thinking, converts to $112 USD. So I will not be doing the V-8's as they are already available in AU and fairly priced. I will be concentrating on the Bulldog.

I understand that there are different ways of doing things but every time I go and change it up, it comes back to bite me. It is not the fastest, cheapest or non-original way. It is just the way it was done and I respect that. If I was doing this to make as much money as possible I would not approach it like this. If silver is what is wanted, just pay for it, the difference is about $75 between hollow and solid silver, hollow is not going to happen with me. In perspective there will be approx $125 in a chrome plated bronze one. To do the bulldog in Solid Silver (6.25 ounces) the price is $250 each, double that of chromed, and there will not be any like it again. If done it will be one run only. Finish weight will be a bit lower due to gating and finishing. I am simply offering to do a small run and not get Mack/Volvo to worry about trademark stuff no more to it than that. Embroidery we are doing, $60 a shirt, reflective piping, plus flat rate box cost. You can figure which ones are Guys and Ladies

Yep, Thats the stuff. We make it here in the USA. Real American designs and production. Small but we hope to grow it into something. We are also doing embroidered mechanics shirts (full back & shirt pocket). Factory direct on the shirts to our design and we embroider here in Arizona starting now as well.

Kenny, Things move slow around here but you are responding to an almost 5 year old tread..... Anthony has not been on this site since March of 2016. Safe to say the truck has GONE into different hands.

I can have that weight in a few days. Silver is about $23-25 an ounce now It'll be a few days for an exact weight from the CAD program. Silver is $23-25 an ounce now. I'll get exact but figure 6-7 ounces. It would be a way cool belt buckle by mounting to a back plate like rodeo buckles. We don't do that but....