AZB755V8

Shrinkage is figured in a % of finish size. Normally a single % is good enough but in complex parts a dual %% is calculated for lateral and longitudinal shrink as in jet turbine blades. This is no issue and they will be as good a originals or better. I was a moldmaker and QC manager for jet turbine molds in my past and now make sterling silver jewelry for a business. Our 3D wax printer is a high end $50K unit specific for high detail parts. These emblems are really quit simple to produce. The issue is that I have to send patterns out for casting. Bronze is a dirty metal and our silver & gold casting machine would be contaminated melting anything but silver and gold. Idea anyone what these in real silver... gold would be $$$ just because of gold price not labor it would be the same. Check out the jewelry at: www.rebelroselife.com Yes the site is female focused.

The price that I am quoted is for the Bronze casting that will be polished. The Bulldog came that way and not chromed. The V-8 came chrome and gold plated. Prices from Mack when I got some of the last V-8 NOS over 20 years ago was $65 chrome, $95 gold. I don't know what the Bulldog was priced as it only came on the chrome valve covers and does not have a part number on it. By the way I have seen the V-8 emblems go on Ebay for far more than $100 each. Even triple chroming should not add more than $25-30 each. The casting originals will be 3D wax printed to correct for shrink and investment cast. Just seeing if there is any interest so I know how many to make for myself and maybe a few other guys.

I have a need for a few of each of these very hard to find Emblems. Even harder is to find them in new condition. I am seriously considering having some cast out of bronze. The E9 valve cover Dog was bronze originally and just polished. These were produced one year only from what I can tell around 1993 for the black engine with chrome valve covers in CL700's. The V8 came be chrome plated and they did come gold plated but not solid bronze. These were used from 1963-1979 but I can be corrected. They will be made in the USA and not cheap but affordable. Thinking around $85-95 a piece. Would any of you have an interest in them and maybe the price will come down with a larger order. I am working on the patterns now and finished cost with a foundry. If I used these actual parts for patterns the castings will be about 2-3% smaller due to casting shrinkage. That is not a lot smaller but will be noticeable compared to an original.

I would go back to the basics. Take the two heater wires from the mirrors and put 12V to them and feel if there is heat. If not the elements ate burnt out. On the right mirror motor take the two wire to it and see if it moves them reverse the wires and see if it moves the other way. As for switches get the volt meter out and start checking if the correct terminals have power, for switch position. If all that checks then it is the wiring between the mirrors and switch or your wires are on the wrong terminals.

Some others things old guys send the new ones to find or do. A Pussyfor the wait for them to ask what's a pussy for. Always a good laugh. They never ask again. An adjustable socket wench. Kitty Litter, They alway ask what for and where is the cat. It's for soaking up oil, dumb ass. Worked with a guy (real name) Dick Head. Tell the new guy to go meet Dick Head and make sure to say "are you a real dick head". We would be fired or socially unacceptable now for all the stuff we did to the young ones in the shop but that is how they learn. It was all good fun. We are all doomed with how everything is now anyway.

Just think these same Millennial will be running the country soon enough. It is a truly sorry truth of the mentality of generations to come. If it is not on a video or cell phone screen it is not important. If effort or thought is involved it is to much stress for Millennials. I have two of them still at home and can one up the stamp thing, " Dad we don't have toilet paper" I say go get some. " Dad there is non under the bathroom sink" I say then go get some. "Where?". I say at the store at the corner of the street. They used paper towels for a week before I ran out myself and got some. The point is: If it is to hard to wipe your ass what can you do anyway!! VOTE, asked my Millennials, they said no, it was to much time to find out what were the issues to vote on let alone figure were a STAMP comes from!

A Superliner is a good one to start with. Buy the best one you can afford. EVERYTHING is expensive to replace and parts are harder to find as the age of the truck gets older. I have had trucks done by professionals, done my own and purchased one that just needed a little work and had all the right stuff. Going down the line: Wheels cost $275-300 new. Repolish is approx $125-175 a wheel. I have bought repolished wheels for $175. An old or scrap wheel is worth about $50-70. Scrap the old ones and get new, there is nothing like new wheels and tires. Danny's truck wash by me in Phoenix, AZ does polishing all the other polishing you asked about. Call them and they should be able to give you a ball park price. The more you can polish the more you can spend in other areas. Frame restoration is going to be what you are willing to accept. A perfect frame with no rust pocks, holes welded, painted in and out will be expensive $20-50k. Just to grind down, sandblast and repaint like you stated will be at least $10,000. A nice Superliner went for $15000 with aluminum frame, E9, and nicely painted in the past a member here had it. They were out there, maybe still. Air lines and hoses are things that you should be able to do. Having a hobby truck is having something to tinker with and work on. There are things the go wrong, break and just need replaces. You will go broke if a truck shop is going to maintain your vintage truck. DOT Hoses, lines and fittings, $1500 should cover it for parts. American Big rubber tires: $3500-$4500 for a set of 10 Hope that give you an idea of what you could be looking at. Buy the best condition truck you can to start with and you will be money, time and work ahead. Then go out an have fun with it.

Look like you did some homework. I know the Kirker # is correct, I still have a gallon. If you want it I will pull it out and see if it is still liquid. Just pay shipping. All those # could be correct.

Time is short on all these, only two days to bid!! There maybe good buys for some of you that have been looking. Get one or two and store them for a few years and make some money.... just a thought.

Yep, There is a lot of Superliners back in Ohio and PA still. Sort of glad I moved out west, I would have a fleet of B's and RW's down by the barn and more than likely be divorced by now because of the Mack addition... 👍 Think these trucks will be nice buys for a few guys. Look like complete running trucks. Hope none take boat rides....

Just stumbled on this, surfing the web, A LOT of SUPERLINERS with E9's and nice B model sheet metal. ONLY 3 days to bid!! https://www.proxibid.com/asp/Catalog.asp?aid=148842 Good Luck,

Saw that to, it was dated (sold) on that site before it went on Ebay. He made a few K on the deal.

Me, you and a dozen other Guys are looking for one, Good luck hunting!! Been looking for years for a a good one, hens teeth are easier to find. I even called Denver Truck in PA, years back, to see how much it would be to have one built like the one they did for Willard's E9-LTL. Priceless!!

See you have some LTL frame parts. My stanchions are good but would you have a front engine mount for a 275? Mine has a crack, second one in the truck, and I would rather fine a good one than try and weld this one. Also would you have the rear aluminum cab mount? I have an aluminum rear cab mount that was damaged the first time the front engine mount broke, and the engine dropped, tearing it up with the universal joint when the trans pivoted up and front of engine went down.

Sad that someone lost there life just being stupid for a split second, well a few seconds anyway. But come on how can a person be so caught in the moment to "Not See the Train Coming" let alone feel the vibration under his feet. Maybe the best, that is the person that is so focused on the cell phone screen that they would probably kill someone else a day later driving a car and videoing or texting. Think people are getting dumber and dumber with each generation, case in point. Life is not a video game, can't just press reset and start over. Feel Bad, No, he could have avoided the Train, the Train could not have avoid him. Had a guy jackknife my rig by nailing me behind the cab when I was moving in a left hand turn in the left hand lane last year. My big ass trailer is mirror stainless on the back with all LED lights, really hard to not see it even if the sun is not shining. 4 lane Hwy, He came up the left berm at 55 MPH, no one in the right lane for a mile. His cell phone was laying on the car floor when they pulled him out, Dumb Ass was discharged that night, truck was in the shop for 2 months. Can't Fix Stupid!!

Just trying to help with PS for those how need or wanted it. You are correct there were more truck produced into the mid 60's without power steer than with. That is when you could tell a trucker by the size of his forearm. Got a B with and an LT without. Choosing I'll drive the B over the LT any day. 👍

It can be as simple as the fuel return restrictor valve, back to the tank on side of pump, leaking down. This will drain the fuel from the pump galley. Easy way to tell is put a galley pressure gage in to a port or tee into supply line from charge pump, I have the gage in my dash now. After mine sits it will pop-off easily with 6 cyl then when galley pressure is above 5psi the others cylinders chime in. In the transfer pump there are 2 disk return check plates, usually a fiber disk with small spring, that can be worn and can leak fuel back to the tank that way too. Last thing if you have a hand primer on your transfer pump the shaft seal can be leaking air back in to system when truck sits a lot. It will leak air in as it is the highest point in the fuel system and not fuel out. I replaced the return valve and primer so last is the transfer pump. Once it takes more than a second for the engine to fire up and other cylinders to catch in 5-10 seconds.

If that is the price that turbo can be purchased new from a speed shop for that. Chances are the exhaust housing will need changed to work on a diesel. Checking on Jegs Speed Shops the housing are about $170. The reason for a change will be when you want to start making boost. The smaller the A/R number the lower the RPM's to spool the turbo. Other thing is the amount of boost, these turbos will make 50PSI Plus with no issues. Injectors and pump need to be worked on for flow and timing to balance the increase in air going though the engine. If you have emissions testing I would not do it. With added PSI everything else need to be looked at. It is not as simple as bolting a big PSI turbo on and go like hell. Head bolts, couplings and gaskets seem to snap or fail at elevated boost pressures.

Photo's or it does not exist, engine and truck, Please. PM me if Bob does not have the mat he started the post with. The contact I have for a NOS L Cab floormat sold one to me for my LTL. He may still be around and have one left.

No, I have not been to his yard. Been in AZ for 15 years and only back to PA for family and Macungie show a few time since. He is up for new and different things like that JD project. I made the aluminum fender panels for his black and red B75 that he used the radiator for the intercooler and put another radiator in back of for engine coolant. Can't remember if it was an intercooled Mack or Cummins engine. Think he sold that truck years ago.

I know Kevin All and a little on the steering box. When I was looking, some 15 years ago, to do the power steering change over I traded Kevin for some parts and knowledge. The box mounts in the same location as the original, have to drill frame for different mounting bolts. I got a power steering box from him to work with a 6cyl. engine, I have a V8 and this convention will not work for a V8, just no room. Besides mounting the new box the lower end of the steering column shaft need to be cut and a universal joint keyed to the shaft. A short splined shaft mounts on the box and mates with universal joint. Supply and return hydraulic lines need to be run to a pump and reservoir. I still think I have the power steering box from Kevin if anyone is interested. $200 plus the shipping. I'll go look for it if someone is interested. PM me.

Kenny, You are not starting off on BMT with a good note. First we all can read and Bold print is not necessary and is used rarely. As in this thread You must read and not ask if something is sold or where it is located as in another post if the truck is sold, sold ,sold.... especially back in August 2015 as stated here. We are here to help with anyone interested in knowing about Mack Trucks. Your second tip-off was your Frightliner, not misspelled so get with the program good buddy.👍

The Cobra body is polished aluminum with brushed strips. Same material as the original ones built in the 60's. Kirkham Motorsports in Utah has the bodies and frames roughed built in Poland. They then finish the rest here in the USA the customer has to supply the engine. Copper and Bronze bodies are options but way more money and 400lbs plus heavier. This car is a little over weight with that engine at 2600lbs. Fuel adds 270 more plus me. It ends up about 3lbs per HP for power to weight ratio.

No damp roads here but oil at intersections is a big issue. If it rains it is like ice starting and STOPPING. Yes, a Cobra can get out of hand in a split second, that is what makes them fun and a hand full in any configuration. Not for the faint of heart to be behind the wheel. Have had people (women) screaming from first gear on and getting out with a smile on their faces and shaking, no wet seat yet but said close! That was after having them strapped in with a racing harness. This all under 75MPH and in third gear of course.

RR has alway been Adequate in every way, maybe some day I'll drive one, maybe never own one. No.... HP Rated "Just About Enough" and detuned at that, down to about 1000HP at the crank. There are but VERY few places to crack it open due to street conditions, like the boys in blue, without drawing BIG attention. I got a CDL to worry about too. License Plate reads "Venomis" Misspelled but we only have 7 digits to work with in AZ. Funny but no one can USE that kind of HP in the car or truck that was 1000HP at crank or to the wheels. BUT it is nice to know that it is there if ever needed.... 👍