AZB755V8

manual to electrionic speedo By superdog405, April 9 in Electrical, Electronics and Lighting Take a look at the last post when you go there and it should get your speedo working. Just try the sending unit wires, This was done the same way to my truck years ago. Post is located here on second page of this section, last date May 15.

The MH for sale is a strange one. 8 Lug buds are not a normal thing ether. Looks like it has the Canadian spread too. I have not seen that length of cab ether but have seen the short one as in the photo above. It maybe some type of Canadian Special Spec. Surely a one off or super low production unit.

To go to a street pull and have fun, take a stock E9 and try it for a season before you go all in. To make 1200-1500hp is not that hard to do with an E9. If you are planning on working the truck and pulling on the weekend is not a safe bet. It is like having a race care you drive on the street, there are many issues, some being emissions, insurance, reliability, DOT, to name a few. I have an E9 Superliner puller with 1500hp at the crank and over 1150hp at the wheels and know what I am talking about. In puller form it will not pull a loaded trailer without issues. If you want to give me $100K you can have it, there is over that in it... Even a "stock street" class is far from stock these days. The point is that there is much more that needs to be upgraded to handle the over stock torque and HP. The pulling rules have changed over the years not to mention the safety for yourself and the spectators. billet flywheel and clutch, trans blankets, drive shaft loops, etc all need to be in place to compete at an elevated level. It all cost a lot of money and even more to maintain it. The knowledge is not easy to come by to get everything to work right and other pullers are not going to tell you all the TRICKS. If you are serious about a puller talk to Dale Francis (Francis Engineering) out in Painsville, he is close to you in northeast Ohio. Dale has been building E9's and KTA's for years and has the parts and knowledge to get anything to really run good. He and Dick Bonner run the Mackimus Prime Superliners. He can get an engine together for you, HP and price have no limit at his place. Just don't waste his time and try picking his brain, if you do you will see what I mean.

I have an E9 that is turn up real well, actually I have backed it down a bit lately. It had 4 electric fans and no viscous fan on the engine. It worked well but put a good load on the alternator all the time. It was done for pulling to get the 50-75hp that a viscous fan would use at pulling RPM. The engine driven fan works and I have tried the original as well as a retrofit unit with fiberglass (plastic) blades. It is mandatory in most sled pulls to have plastic fan blades now a days. Make sure you have the big 4 core radiator and it is clean inside and straight and clear fins on the outside. Mike is running an Aluminum radiator but in all the engines I have, a copper core actually cools better. Heat transfer by the thermal numbers is greater for copper over aluminum. Yes, Aluminum for weight in a race car... is the way to go. The big thing is no matter what the power output 500 or 1000hp the easiest thing to control heat is backing off the throttle when the water temp and pyro get to high. I have only had to back-off a few times pulling a good grade loaded, but still passing anything and everything in sight. It will recover in 2-3 minutes then lay into it again!!! When you put a good load on the alternator, like with electric fans, with an E9 or spin it past 23-2500 RPM's the belt likes to flip in the pulleys. I always have a spare belt or two in the tool box. I am working on a two belt set-up to stop the belt roll.

I had a 1967 R700 that had that same color interior so that color is Mack original and correct. It had a steel dash cab but with the steering wheel on the right, I mean left side. Beautiful work and a gorgeous truck, something to be very proof of for sure, hope it look as good 5 years later

Before you do anything find someone that can work on it if you don't know anything. It is going to cost you and Good work requires Good pay. It is not hard to turn anything up to a point but parts will be braking and there is always something to fix or make better. Big parts cost big money as well then modifying them to work is an art in itself. Guys that don't know anything in any type of racing don't last long or need a lot on money to have someone that does know. Even if you are just doing a street class and expect to place or win, the competitors trucks have modifications, good luck, which is part of racing as well. IMHO

Believe the side louvered hood was only 3 years. 1950 is when I think they changed to the flat sides with the chrome , for sure 1951.

I have a few of the V8's and will have to check for this condition when they are pulled down. I don't think .002 from deck to sleeve counter bore is out of line, so to speak. Isn't it in the manual .002 is in spec for parallelism? That is a little thinker than a piece of hair (.0015). Think that is all that it is the counter bore. If you are thinking the whole sleeve bore is out that would mean that the piston is side stepping at least .006-.008 from top to bottom of the stroke and rod a lot further at the crankshaft. Your rod bearing would have to show signs of a strange wear pattern if this condition existed and I would think that rod and bearing failure would have happened long ago. I did not see that the deck was checked to flatness in all the post here. If the deck is not flat that would give you the .002 reading. There are not any engines that I have had bored that the deck was flat to begin with. Heat cycles and working stress do tweek blocks over time. Pulling a good flat head down on a not so flat block will pull the block flat. A side note: I had a 400 Chevy done up for a race car. I assemble my own engines and did a check on the machine work before putting it together. It was decked, bored and alien honed. The bores were out of round by a lot, almost .003 in two or three cylinders. I did tell them to deck it and do the rest of the work with deck plates and main caps torqued, which they did. I took the block right back to the machine shop and said they owe me another block. When they torqued the plates on the block every bore was dead nuts zero. I've run that engine to 9,000 rpm's a lot and it is still fine. The point is checking the block with no stress on it is not the same as when everything is torques to spec. Did Mack use deck plates when machining the blocks? If they did I would certainly leave it along and put it back together the way it is. Quality is a big issue with a lot of things, look at the reman Mack stuff anymore it is not what it use to be. The quality is just not there. Had a set of four reman head on an E9, went 16,000 miles and dropped a exhaust seat. It was a mess, piston, liner, head and turbo junk and out of warranty for time. The truck was not driven much, 16,000 in 7 years.

The thing you have to look out for is the clutch cable. The one on my truck is high were as "back in black's" cable is under the crossover tube if I recall. I could have the crossover tube up an inch or two and would help with a clearance problem with my turbo tube. I needed to recess the tube a bit to clear as in the photo. The cut-outs in the hood comes up to the molded fiberglass support then reinforced with a piece of 1/8 stainless plate. The side support/cover the intake runs though are made of 1/8 aluminum plate and bolted to the cowl edge and have a band-iron enforcement behind. the lights look good at night. These are 13 inch Vortex stainless cleaners which look good and work great. No real clearance issues with ether door. The side vents will be inoperable and behind the cleaner mounts. You have to extend the lower cab pins and hood mounts forward.

Everything said is spot on. That is exactly how mine is and it was Fab'ed up and looks good with the stainless cleaners. There are no parts at Mack for any of this anymore so make it up as you go. Get some good photos of the set-up and cut and piece the system together. Some cutting, fabrication and welding required. The outside air cleaner do give the Superliner a great look.

Sounds a little funny talking about Mack Butt, but I do think a little funny at times. So we are talking about the ass end of a Mack? Well I like my asses a little big and hanging out a little. Sort of like a Butty Butt on a nice woman. Never thought about the ass end of my Mack's Butt, but the 3 tractors I have all hang out there just the way Mack intended. Photos of nice Mack Butt (Tail) to follow if needed.....

Here is one in New York, not to far from you $8900 Looks like you could drive it home in a day. Make an offer of $8K and you will probably get it. https://syracuse.craigslist.org/cto/6140856802.html

If you are considering a E9 swap there are a few things to change: Front engine mount, 4 core radiator, big intercooler, maybe an oil pan if it was in a cabover. Most 1005 were not intercooled but the E9 400 and higher HP were. Make sure it has the power steering pump on it, it is gear driven and a must for a Superliner. There are two different bellhousings, make sure the engine was the right one for the Mack trans. Your trans may not have the torque capacity to handle an E9. Drive shafts will more than likely have to be built heavier, E9's twist little driveshafts. Even low milage engines can have issues. For that money it should have good oil pressure but to be sure I would roll a new set of rod and main bearings in it to be safe. Replace the oil pump springs while you have the pan off too, they break. There are a few complete E9 Superliners on Crag's List for $8500 or so now, maybe consider them, you will have that in the engine swap and a few parts easy with a lot of variables that can cost $$$

The end result of the failure is oil starvation to the rod bearings. If the bearings were .010 over I don't thing the engine would have turned over in the first place. I think the real issue is the main bearings. This rebuild would not be the first time main bearings were installed wrong. I have seen bearings with the oil groove in only one shell, it maybe the case with an E7 engine. That shell must be installed in the block and the ungrooved shell in the main cap. The engine will have oil pressure but no real amount of oil to the rods if the grooved shell is in the main cap.

The pump that I have is small for the volume of oil you will need for the setup. I did not use it for that reason, however an E9 or 825/875 pump would work. I think that drive gear was used on the bigger pump on my truck. You should have a spare pump for your stuff, if not one is on Ebay now for an E9. The thing is you will need the 3 bolt mount for a 2 bolt pump. The auxiliary drive on an 864 has the 3 bolt mount. The only thing I don't know is if the drive gears are interchangeable from engine to engine and pump to pump. The bigger tank you have would work well. If you what the mount with or without the pump $50 plus shipping, As of a few years ago the Garrison was still available new. Less than $1500 complete if I recall right.

A lot of difference with that water to air setup. I did that to my E9 last year and figure about 8-10% increase in HP for about 15 seconds. No pulling out West but Drag racing is. That water gets hot fast. Make sure to run (2) 3500GPH water pumps, you'll need it. That is a honest 1.5 plus gallons a second through the intercooler. I used (2) 1.5 Diameter inlets and outlets and reinforces milk hose. You should be well over 1000HP now with all the mod's. I'll be looking for you at the PA and Ohio pulls. You change classes? I didn't think changing intercooler type was aloud in pulling.

Williams and Bosch make air throttle control valves still. If there are no parts from Mack there maybe directly from Williams? If not there has to be another currant control that can be retrofitted. The air cylinders are available from many sources, not a Mack part, but maybe even a direct fit. Google: micro air cylinders. The other option is to convert the throttle to the old cable type that was used on the older V8's with puff limiter.

The 3 stick LTL I did a lot of work to. Full interior restoration All sheet metal to bare metal and repainted

Mike, had time today to get a few photo's of the setup The mount for the cylinder, have to put the same height spacer in the passenger side or trim down the drivers side to compensate for thickness The control valve and mounting to steering link and Pittman arm The hydraulic cylinder and mount to drag link 864 mount and small pump, small tank, mounts with 3 bolts, I do not have the gear, don't know if you want it, let me know 825/875 Pump and tank in my B755, a lot bigger pump like on a single steering box E9, a double box pump and tank are even bigger Cylinder mounting bracket

That KB12 was Don's pride of his collection. It did have a lot of gears and if I recall a 2 speed rear. It is supercharged cummins powered. I got to talk with Don at his last Gold Mine open house before he passed. Don' know what his kids are doing with things but he had a lot of cool old stuff. He started his 11,000 cubic inch 3 cylinder engine for the guys, man what a monster!! The exhaust sounded like cannons going off.

It would be Great to see another B71 out at shows. I have only seen one at at the Oregon ATHS show a few years ago. Looking at the photos it is about as original as you are going to fine and is not rusted or dented to hell. Being new to old Macks i hope you have a lot of hands on mechanical experience, aware that everything is big and heavy. and have a very large bank account to get a restoration to the finish line. It is definitely a low production B with the Cunnings, 3 stick and has been sitting for year. It will not be going anywhere fast if the price is $25K. Before you go Mack crazy and buy it contact Dan Thomas (Mackdaddy) in Oregon he has and knows of a lot of trucks worth something in that area. His restored trucks are second to none, he may even have what you are looking for, super nice guy. I know he had a 3 stick LT with a 275 Cummins, in restoration, that he was selling awhile back. Just a side note, It is cool to have a lot of gears but after the novelty of driving it and shifting every 10 seconds wears off you will be driving it with the Duplex ad shifting the Brownie from direct to high for the second overdrive only. There are no synchro's in any of these trans and it takes a lot of practice to fell the gears in and not blow a shift and grind. Get two sticks in natural at the same time, pull over to a Complete STOP and start over

I cant help with the wiring but did convert my Superliner Speedo to GPS. It is a lot simpler than anything else. Hook up antenna , power and it works. No sensors or wiring to figure out. AutoMeter or Speed Hut both make GPS Speedo's. You can get an exact dial face match to the mechanical Speedo (or any face you want) from Speed Hut.

The pump mounts the same way but is no the same. The 325/375 is different from the E9 and 255 as well. I think it has to do with the gear tooth angel. The pump gear and mount is engine specific. I have to see if I got the pump iI sent Matt back, it was off a 255. I think it was rebuilt or in really good condition. He had to get a 325/375 pump and mount for the engine in my B755 to get it to work. Are you thinking of doing the Garrison setup? I can get a few photos if your interested.

Holy Smokes there is a load of Wasp nest in that cab!!! That should make for some fun driving. That is the same trans and stick layout that I was saying. Cool truck with the extended hood and radiator.

Hi there, I got a 3 stick 1953 LTL. It was that way from factory and it was not the only one built. I have seen one or two others through the years as well. Each gear is 250-300 RPM splits. the set up was used out on the West Coast. The trans set up was a Duplex and a Brownie. The way I drive it is the 9 speeds in the Duplex and then the last two shift in the 3 speed Brownie. The brownie has the second overdrive. The stick layout is Brownie stick to the left, center is the 5 speed, right is the 2 speed Duplex split. The truck does 65MPH with 5.77 rears, that was the high speed option back then. Also something that you may not have seen is the supercharged Cummins in the LTL, The total combinations are 27 forwards and 6 reverse if someone wanted to do some gear jammin!!