AZB755V8

Been looking for a set like that, are there more available? I'll swap for a NOS pair of the brushed finish dogs I got. I don't know the actual use for shiny ones but I want them for on a set of mirrors but if not available the brushed one will do.

Boy Oh Boy, Todays youth are so inpatient! Maybe Old men I don't know your age, for sure an incredible undertaking. Think Matt has been working on this for 4 years?? Oh crap it is looking like 7 years maybe actual time start to finish, wow time flies. Took me 1995-2013 to get mine done, that is only 18 years, You can't rush Perfection, Matt is doing Fine 👍 I want to see it completed before... you know I die as well... but it will be the best NEW, OLD, B Model in the country if not the World!!!! Love Macungie, Don't think I will make it this year with Biden... I mean fuel prices... It would be over $5,000 round trip in the Superliner with trailer and other two on deck. All in about $7,500 for the trip, LOL.

Think is going to take a LOT MORE than a couple of dollars just to get it running again. That old girl has been rode hard. Price reflects what you get Bones with hardly any meat left hanging on. Does have a wounded E9 with P7100 inline pump that is probably the most valuable thing there as a core engine. Hope it stays away from any boat ride!!

Sorry for your Father's passing. There are many ways to deal with the situation bestowed on you and family. Every antique owner of any type, cars, trucks, furniture, etc. knows the value of their possessions. More so what they have in them for time and money then add the sentimental value that is priceless. What it looks like you have in the B-73 is truly exceptional and just needs the right owner. There are many guys that will not even get passed talking about "how much it is worth" really have no idea or never see the rig in person. It is frustrating to hear $25-30k is the price range but everyone has an opinion. matt73lt, that has valued your truck is restoring a B-73 and documenting his project, take a look at his thread. When finished the truck will be beyond perfect in every way. Matt would laugh if someone offer him $30k for his finished truck, IMO. Most all people do not know the time, effort and passion that it takes to restore an old Mack truck. I certainly have not do it for the return on investment but preserving a little transportation history. I think your father viewed things the same. Looks like he went to a great lengths to make his baby a standout. That is not cheap. All you need is one new owner to agree and pay for it. The value number your Dad stated is not padded with sentimental $$. If you go to sell it start with that and can always come down, never up. I think its would be worth every penny, IMO. The reason I know is my truck looks much the same way and there is a lot more in it than actual $80k. That was just for all the Best parts I could find over 10 years before restoration began. My boys with have the same situation as you when I die. Think I would roll over in the grave if all they got was $25-30k. Good luck, don't agree with all that is said here, all comments are just opinions. My restored B-755

Well this has been over a 3 year, started Sept 2018, quest to get some Really Nice Emblems Made. Gone though several places that said they could do them and all failed badly. I was at the end of the line with trying, thinking I wasted a lot of time and $$$ to get a few Emblems. I had been contacting my last vendor for over a year and a half and finally gave up. Then to find a present in FedEx a day before this Christmas 2021. From what I know the Dog is a one year only Emblem with no part number. It was used on the 1993 CL Elite Limited trucks on the valve covers for the E7-400 and E9-500 engines. There is two round .250 dia. x .125 high inch tabs on the back that can be drilled and taped 8-32 for mounting. They will look Great on anything even belt buckles. The V8 is the iconic Mack Emblem that is still highly desirable and big $$$ if you can even find one or two in good shape. This Emblem has the correct mounting studs. What do you think of the end result? They are heavy not diecast or pot metal. There is an Original Emblem in each photo for comparison. I am very particular with what I would put on my trucks and these are a close to Original as you will Ever find and New. I am not OK with the gold as it is a coating over the Chrome and had a sample from over 2 years ago. It was on my desk in the sunlight and faded to Chrome. I will see if I can just get some in bare Brass or Bronze plated instead of the Gold. I can not guaranty the finishes other than Chrome, it is triple plated and nice. These will be ready to go in 4-6 weeks. Price for now is $100 each with free shipping on 2 or more Emblems. A Very far price considering all that has went into getting these Really Nice Emblems to the finish line.

I was on the lookout for Replacement steering wheels a while back, like 10 years ago. I did get a new Black one from Charmers back then, it was the smaller diameter wheel so I had a little more room for the Belly in a B cab. I don't know if this wheel will have the correct spline but it certainly is worth a call to ask. I have posted this website before, prices and availability seem OK. Looks like they have both large and small diameter. https://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/stwhform35an.html $142.00 each

No. Only Brass

Where are you located? I got a real nice early 70's Pete bubble top 36" aluminum sleeper. It is perfect condition in primer, no dents or corrosion, had it for 25 years. I was going to use it for my B but changed my mind. It would look really good and match the round cab top of your B. I sort of promised it to someone but he has not picked it up in a year. If your interested I will check if he still wants it. You pick up $750 Phoenix, AZ

https://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/index.html In cab Hardware Section $6.00 each

South Bend Clutch did my double disc pusher clutch years ago. They put heavier springs in it and ceramic friction material instead of organic as original. A huge difference all around and a really good job, no more slipping clutch even at peak power. I had my flywheel resurfaced locally. Have them rebuild your pressure plate and disc with better materials than original 1955 stuff. South Bend Clutch 709 W. Jefferson Blvd. Mishawaka, IN 46545 574-256-5065 www.southbendclutch.com

You may have heard this before. eBay has new Econodyne emblems regularly. More pricy than I remember but last ones sold in September around $60 each, there were 2 listings. I got 2 Econodyne's there a few years back for $25 each. Couldn't believe the deal even then but NOS emblems. Just looked to see Watt's Mack right here has Econodyne emblem in stock for $130 each Maxidyne emblems, good luck at any price. Last sold here for $100 each in 2015.

I'm just sort of curiously ignorant to this point of view but on the same topic. How could Mack use Super, Cruise, Ultra and Value to begin with. These words have been used millions of time before. Then add liner to make a new word. There is no issue with creating a new word and not subject to Copyrights. No one has claim to any word or portion of. How about dyne as in Thermodyne, Maxidyne, Econodyne? On the same train of thought, would there be an issue with dyne? Then add Therm, Maxi, Econo? Amtrak started the Superliner in 1979 even though Mack used Superliner first in 1977. A copyright is a collection of rights that automatically vest to someone who creates an original work of authorship like a literary work, song, movie or software. These rights include the right to reproduce the work, to prepare derivative works, to distribute copies, and to perform and display the work publicly. Not arguing but meant to inform

This was posted here in "Trucks Wanted" in January 2020 "I have a nice Ultraliner with E9 500 12spd Mack 11/24.5 on aluminum buds. 1990 Rob 403-678-7882 Ab Canada." Give Rob a call and go from there. He may have it or know of where another is at.

What are you looking for besides a V8 MH?? Complete, running, needs work, restored? For parts or to drive for fun or work? Single or tandem axel? What you looking to spend? Most of the MH's in Canada had V8's. Got two from there a few years ago with under 150k Kilometers on the clocks, needing work but both complete. Sure there are still some left. Back in Ohio and PA there was a bunch with V8's too. This way narrows it down to help you.

Think this is what you are looking for on the V-pumps used before 1991. Actual AMBAC tags on the pumps. The pump number should start with 8VBB1100 for the V-pumps.

Nice and Clean! Is it the same Osborne form Wyoming? If so how is it getting in and out of Aussie land these COVID days? The cab looks a little strange by the cowling. Is there a different cab on the Superliner? Almost Certain it is a V8 with heavy rears.

It would be Great if the cut-off you are getting had 10.5 rails, it would save a lot of work. There are different types of Newway airride, does the set-up you are getting match the one for 1985? Think the right one is a long underslung type and have it on a 1985 MH I am working on. Someone else may know better on this point. As for value, it is your truck, do what you want and not worry about what someone else wants when you sell it. It only worth what someone is willing to pay for it anyway. As long as you do things right it will always be worth a good amount. I will say there is a Huge improvement in airide suspension over camelback. Epecially if you are bobtailing more than not. It is not original now so don't worry about it. It will be a Mack Magnum with Mack rears and newway airide. I got newer Neway airspring on the superliner now and reframing/restoring it soon. It will have 1994 Mack airspring (Neway copy) with Rockwell rears and going to 270" with a 72 inch sleeper. I found a CL713 double frame in Great shape, years ago, only rust was under 5th wheel mounts. It was going to be cut up and scraped, said I would give $900 with the Mack suspension still on it! It is the same frame as an RW just has about a 8 inch extension on front of rails that will be cut off. All drilled same as the RW as well.

I would say that Smalls1184 will not reply as he has not been on the forum for a year and a half. My Superliner is spliced and a Great job. It was spliced to 245" with Rockwell Lockers on Neway airride for sled pulling. The cut-off was left long to add to the wheelbase. The slice is about 4 feet long and goes as far forward as where the stock frame bellies. The stock rails were RW613 9 inch profile 1/4 thick and what was added is like 10 1/2 profile 5/16 thick. Cut-off rails were slid over the old rails, cross members at each end of the splice, though bolted and ends welded inside and out in 4 places. You really have to look to see the splice to the rear. The front is in back of the fuel tanks so you can not see it. This way you don't have to drilling for everything except the 16 bolts that go though the crossmembers. Keeping everything in tact. The angle iron rails for the horns is mounted between the two crossmembers. It worked out well. Yes there are 6 Nathan Air Chimes and sound Great! The end result.

A little off topic but... Here in AZ No historical Plates on anything over 10,000 lbs (Total weight) so no truck trailer combinations. Have to use a standard Commercial Plate over 10,000 lbs. There is a one time Permanent trailer plate for under "declarered" 10,000 lbs. My trailer is 9640 lbs empty. I put 10K on the trailer and 70K on the Mack, $1540.00 per year registration for weight. The show trucks don't pull trailers so just put 12K lbs on for weight and like $40 per year registration. That said, the point is (hauling race car) is a no, no here without DOT Numbers. Best to have PLAIN truck and trailer, NO STICKERS or anything. Tucson is the worst in AZ. I have seen it a few times down by the race tracks. Enclosed Race trailers (with contingence stickers) and open trailers with races cars (some with contingences stickers some without) pulled over by AZ State Troopers (They are Pricks). Reason you are making money with the use of the truck and trailer. You win one round for say $20 plus maybe contingence money, have to have a commercial plate and DOT Numbers for commercial use. So yes races do get busted for the stupid stuff just to have a little fun. Sort of like having a patrol car outside the local bar but race track instead. Totally off topic: Got pulled over in Tucson of all places. Trooper: You know why I pulled you over, Me: I have no clue to why you pulled me over. The Reason and Last thing on my mine: No mud flaps on a 1 Ton dully. I did have a Race engine in the bed and getting off the next exit to the dyno shop. Think they just hate Races there. I said it did not come with mud flaps so why do I have to put them on to come though Tucson? Not even jacked up from stock height but Trooper said I was. Trooper said: Well seeing you are from up North in Scottsdale, I can just impound it or you got 24 hours to get them on and show proof or get an out of service registration notice until they are on. Had them on the next day.

Second that. I used a 4 row CL radiator in my Superliner, Bolts right in. If you recore there is 2,3,4 and think 5 row cores. If cooling is a problem go with a larger row core. Easy to do with bolt on tanks.

The tank saddle brackets do not need moved at lease with the Mack round tanks. The steps would be in the wrong place to use a round right tank on the left side. A shorter Left tank is needed. Mack produces short aluminum and steel B-Model tanks for both sides. Maybe a steel right side tank could be used, fuel cap would be reversed though. In this installation a reverse frame bracket was fab'ed up to match the right side. The tank is a 55 gallon left hand Mack tank that matches the right tank. Stacks are straight pipe 5".

A good reliable engine, diesel or gas, is a Great thing. The manufactures spend a lot of time and money to make it so. Then add in the Gov Reg's for fuel economy and emissions, etc. It is a true balancing act and computers have done a lot for that. If more power was needed the manufactures would move in that direction. Running Right has a different meaning to Guys that what more but it is a fine line to get it right just ask anyone that Races. In all cased durability goes down and more maintenance is needed to keep it all running. For cars 650-850hp is not uncommon these days with computer controls. Who needs that power... well no one really but there is a market for it so it is available. There is a Tesla 1000hp and insane torque electric Class 8 truck in the works, is it really needed?

Yes, the stuff I have is for play and show. To have modified stuff to make a living is rough these days. Speed limit is still 65 MPH on the interstates. Tickets are traceable though out the states and expensive to. It is fun though pulling a grade with a load as if on the level. Passing everything going up the mountains. Are you talking about an E7 or E9 with your project? An 80mm is on the big side with a 1.45 A/R housing for an E7. Bottom end torque will be poor due to keeping it spooling it up and EGT will be high. Depends on turbine size though. The lower compression will help with more boost for sure. I cut my heads around the valves to get that with better air flow not the pistons

Just a note, cracking the throttle on this E-9's does more harm that good. Any diesel will blow black when the puff limiter is disconnected. True test is rolling on the fuel under load. The idea is to have minimal smoke and increase in power. I can sure put on a show (rolling coal) and attract usually the wrong attention. Remember there are big fines for emissions violations in most states. That said you have ways to go to get the set-up right. Yes the turbo is to small for the amount of fuel, if pump is turned up all the way, nozzles are to small, timing is very critical, governor needs work, fuel return valve needs changed, etc. along with other things. BIG Note: With more power more heat, valve seats fall out and destroy the head, piston, liner, turbo, expensive fix! How do I know! About $6000 in parts and down 6 weeks if I did not have the parts and do the work in my shop. Still was a 20 hour fix. Mack Dealer did not have a Tech that EVER worked on an E9. Not doing it right for some FUN.. but I learned real quick.. Have fun but know that changing one thing means changing a lot of things to get it to work properly and with a lot of left foot moderation (REAL Important) to not break other expensive things. Have a spare engine, clutch, driveshafts, etc. for parts...👍

Agreed with that and second it too. There is always trade offs with modifying anything Durability and reliability go down as horsepower and performance go up. Everyday truck I would not mess with but a hobby or occasional run truck why not? Can't do to much anymore with emissions and all anyway. Heaven forbid some black smoke comes out of the stacks on a old truck these days. Just get a bigger factory engineered engine and all is solved, just sayin...