AZB755V8

Mike, I have the Garrison on my B755. It is a hydraulic slave cylinder in place of the air cylinder. It works great, uses your original steering box. Have to install the control valve, cylinder and pump, ether direct drive or belt on the V8. I even put a B67 steering wheel on for belly clearance. The kit was still available a few years ago when mine was done by Matt.

Yes, the RW Superliner II is a MH frame. The CL frame is the same as well and I believe the last use of that frame. I am doing a frame swap on my RW and using a 1994 CL700 frame. I got a real nice CL double frame with duel steering boxes, big axel with Mack airride. The CL frames have all the holes for mounting the axel forward shackles and springs as well as the cab mounts. The only difference is the CL frame is extended about 6 inches at the front. The front cross member/engine mount are not the same but frame mounting holes are in the CL frame for both crossmembers. In reality what I am doing is putting my Superliner II Hood, cab and front axel on a CL 700 frame and E9 drive train. I do like the look of that axel forward CL though.

That turbo should do the HP you are after. You drove the truck before the work? After all the engine work, does it pull A LOT better? What is the governed RPM's? There is a lot that can be adjusted in a pump besides more fuel. What is the torque rise setting? If the smoke is hazing at full RPM's and under load that is as much as you are going to get. Black smoke is excess and will get you in trouble with emissions. If you told Dale it was for road use maybe he took that into account. For fun or pulling engines there is no EPA to deal with. The Pyro is a question, in all the tuned up engines I have been around the Pyro will go above 1300 with just a little more fuel. If you are topping at 1100 under full load that pump is well matched to the power and anyone should be able to drive it without fear of hurting it. It is a balance of fuel and boost to get the power. The boost gauge should be plumped into the center intake manifold to reduce needle bounce. Do your double checks with a mechanical not electric gauge. A liquid filled one will reduce the needle bounce even more. We are all trying to help here but what is Dale saying about the lack of boost pressure if there are no leaks?

There are two issues that work together, Fuel and Boost. Dale has done work on several of my E9's and knows what it takes to get an E9 to run real good. It sounds like you have all the right stuff but... The pump is the first thing, how far did he tune it up on the fuel? It should be able to easily blow black smoke not just a haze under a good load especially if you are governed at 2100RPM's. Check the fuel galley pressure, it should be 20PSI or more on a turned up pump. I don't know what turbo it is but if it is a stock Mack or does not have the right turbine housing it could be an issue. Tuning sounds right at 19-20. Don't go over that for a working truck. I had a Holset T5 (86mm) on one engine and it would not spool until 1800RPM then look out it ran like a freight train and made over 55PSI. It was set for sled pulling not the road with a load. Governed at 3000RPM's is OK if only you are driving it and watch the Pyro!! Replaced the Holset with a BW S500 (91mm) and to big a Turbine housing and spooled at 1600RPM, down sized the housing and spools at 1200RPM's and is drivable with a load on now. My gage goes to 60 and it pegs easily. I also had torn connector couplings (leaks) and got over 30PSI with the Holset and it had a tore up Turbine wheel from chewing on pieces of a exhaust valve seat. Check Pump first Turbo second.

Don't know if you had a nut or something go through. I dropped a valve seat last summer and munched it up and pieces got hung-up in the turbo for few hundred miles. Had to run it 2000 miles home with a bad cylinder and a hurt turbo. What happens is just as you said seems to run fine but pyro and engine temp go up under load more than normal and you will get almost full boost. You have to look into the turbine side, way in, to see if the ends of the turbine are chewed up. Other than that it looks and fells free and normal. Intake side of turbo damage would not heat things up as does the exhaust side.

That Sleeper was scratch built at Denver Truck in PA and is perfect if i recall. Beautiful job on the whole truck. It is on a Western Star classic.

It is more than likely a 865/325hp. The gold color is Maxidyne pump settings. Go to the upper right corner of this page and Search 865 There are pages of information on these engines here at BMT. I have a few of them as hobby engines now and would not be working one regularly. It is the predecessor of the E9. There are few shops that know what they are these days and fewer that can work on them. Parts are hard to get and $$$. Keep it running and have fun IMHO.

You can rent a 6000lbs fork lift for a day just to be safe get 5 or 6 foot forks. I use a 4500lbs Hyster for all my engine lifting and everything else. It is just a little light to lift engine and trans together. In all the salvage yards they use big 10,000-20,000lbs or bigger forklifts for yanking engines and all lifting needs. An excavator does a real good job of lifting engines too or whole trucks for that matter, used one before lifted a whole truck on the flatbed and yanked the engine out of another. A backhoe is a little small for lifting truck engines.

That's a Real nice Quadbox shifting Diagram, good easy read placement!! I might get blinded looking into those high beam head light just below the Diagram for more than a second. Might even get distracted and blow a shift if I didn't know how to feel them gears in....

That is Rick Muys truck, He has had it a long time, he and his dad did all the work. It is a really nice B!! It no longer has the V8 but I think a good running 237, quad, big rears and spokes. The hood is only 8 inches shorter than a B-75 and this truck has been mistaken more than once as a B-75 with the big radiator. The orange and black B-61 they just finished is outstanding too.

The point I was making is that it is good for someone to get good money for a really nice Superliner and maybe break even. If you figure the cost of the truck originally, cost of maintaining it, caring for it, garaging it, etc, the dollar amount far exceeds $120K. If it was your truck would you sell it for $40-50K and eat the rest? No, you would try and sell it for what it was worth. I am into muscle cars too. Bought my first 69 Dodge 440 Six Pac car for $900 when I was in high school, it is long gone... Today it would be $70K in nice condition or maybe $25K in need of restoration. Restoration would cost about $50K so where does that put the value? Same thing for trucks, Running old iron is $5-10K and the prices go up from there. I totally agree old muscle cars are really not that fast anymore. A new little Turbo or Supercharged something can run circles around that old Dodge. You have the right to do what you want, play with what you want, be how you want, and be proud of it. Any truck show I go to these days there is a big range of trucks and conditions they are in, I like them all and it is good to see them still around and running even if some are not all that pretty. Then there's the trailer queens and they have their place too. Some have big buck in them, because guys like them that way. I don't think they are restoring them to make money, I know I am not. I have my truck because I like them, take care of if them, drive them, repair and restore them. If I was doing it for the money I would have stopped long ago. I would like to get something out of them when sold but really doubt it will come close to the actual money I have in them. Is that driving up prices or just trying to breaking even. I don't get all the stupid prices, 1%, wine drinking and blue collar innuendo's, you brought up. This is a truck Forum, what does that stuff have to do with guys that like trucks? We all have our walk in life but have a common interest in Old Trucks or we wouldn't be on this Forum. I worked in machine shops for years, I am blue collar, I drink wine, beer, whiskey, I still work everyday and have a ways to go on being a 1%er. Just wondering what your point was? From what you are saying, you what someone else to eat the cost of everything and you pick it up for nothing and call it, I do it because I like it.

Nice Superliner. I hope he gets the $$$ he wants. If prices start going up it can only help all of us that have Superliners and other old iron. Sounds a bit crazy but to do a top rate restoration on these things is a $100K plus proposition. I know this truck is billed as original and not redone but condition and up keep may warrant a big price. If prices got bigger I would fell a lot better on putting money into this stuff. Condition and desirability is everything and having someone willing to pay for it.

I got an LTL with that crossmember. Mine is in great shape except for the driveshaft tunnel. The previous owner had the aluminum front crossmember crack and dropped the engine, in turn the universal joint came up and tore up the tunnel in the crossmember before getting the truck stopped. Is that $1300 a finished machined crossmember?

Keep the truck in the driest place possible with air circulation. If you don't have moisture rust can't get any worst or begin to start. Damp storage is a death wish for anything metal, it will even damage good paint over the years. Add salt mist or damp fertilizer and a truck is scrap in a short time. Storage out here in Arizona is great for anything metal, cars, trucks, planes, etc. as long as it is not directly in the sun all the time. Another story is paint, rubber and interiors will turn to dust exposed to sun and 120 degree heat for years.

Most all aluminum polish will work fine. First you have to start with a DA and work your way down to about 600 grit before the polish and buffer will start to leave a shine. One of the most important things you have to find first...and a a lot of, ELBOW GREASE, shine doesn't come in a bottle or jug.. well maybe Moonshine.

The short of it NO. A 865/866 is good for maybe 425hp and that is pushing it. No intercooler but it could be plumbed in to get extra hp with bigger turbo but at the cost of reliability. No parts for those engines, an E9 would be a safer bet. I like both V8's and ,have both running in trucks, but parts and having someone around that know how to work on them is getting harder and harder to find along with parts. It would be really cool to do but not for a work truck. If you do your own work... Maybe

PM sent to you on Turbo's

I did not get back from a 360 mile scotter ride with 9 of my Social Club buddy's (DOBBER's) yesterday until after dark. Good ride, good drink, good food, Great Buds what could be better? The weather was perfect Sunny 60-80 degrees, cooler in the mountains, not like in Florida lately. I did look at the E9 piston and the Logo goes to the front of the engine.

I will look tomorrow as to where the piston logo is on the E9 I have that has a head off. It does matter which way the pistons are installed as some engines have offset wrist pins. Reading the manual it sure sounds like it is the case with an E9. Normally the Logo is on the TOP or furthest to the intake side of the bore and readable, not upside down. This would be for both sides of the engine.

I looked at that truck in South Bend but the hood was closed, thought it was a 400 Cummins. Looked like it was a working dog or resently retired at the show. So the Rad is big enought to get one of those monsters cool. 👍

Putting a KT in a LT would be a first as far as I know. That should actually fit but don't know if there is enough radiator to keep it cool. It that the black LT?

When you got 6 or 6 1/4 it is big. With a D cup what's the difference if it is acually a Double D. But how. Is counting anyway, anymore than a mouthful is a waste! Just some have bigger mouths than others. Big is as big does. 😜😜😜

Price is alway important to start with. If you count the work hours put in though it is way cheaper to get something better to begin with I have done it both ways. Doing your own work you get what you want and it is alway done your way. The older I get the worth of time just keeps going up. People around here think it is crazy to have a few old truck to begin with, and I still do all work except paint. I lived in OH and PA for most of my life and know what you mean about the condition of these old trucks. I sort of forgot that being out in AZ now. Most all west of Colorado trucks don't have rust problems and you see more aluminum frames and not all twisted up. I got the long double frame out of Denver for the Super for $900, cost $600 to get it to Phoenix, nice,straight, never rusted, with 20k and Mack airride, two days later it would have been cut up. Next summer the shorter frame from my Super II will be out of the truck, 235WB if you want it it yours for free. Will have Henderson airride with it, no rears, rust free and straight. Thanks for the reply.

Wow!!! That is a pile of work on that Superdog. I have seen some of your work and it is outstanding, "the force is strong in you". I have scraped trucks in better shape than it. What is the reason to bring this one back from the grave with an aluminum frame to boot? Are you going to use the frame as a working triaxel dump? Just hate to see all that work and bust a frame. I am sure it will be incredible when completed but why? Dan Thomas had the brother to it, maybe still does, E9, same color and aluminum frame for sale, real nice shape, it was at ATHS 2016. I have done some of the same things and if ask nicely have a good reason for everything. Started with bare rails on one restoration. I am reframing my Super II single frame with a longer double steel frame this winter as well. Just asking nicely.

100% correct. Antique's are considered anything over 25 years old. But as Mcrafty1 said the truck is still in Commercial use. There are more than a few 30 plus year old trucks still working and do not qualify for reduced tag and insurance cost. The truck must be retired from service. The fine in AZ is real high if you get pulled over, it is like DUI you can't afford it here... I do not know of any state that would put a weight tag on an Antique plate and there are a lot of restriction as well to begin with. All of my "Antique's" do not have Antique plates. Here there is no advantage but only disadvantages going Antique. Here to haul/tow the declared GVW weight has to be on the registration. Insurance is the main cost savings but carries restrictions, "no commercial use" in any way and some companies will not let you tow a RV camper on these policies. Only your own property and you can not have a business use for the vehicle at all. No money can be gained in anyway from use of the truck. The point is IF you are in an accident and found doing something considered commercial, racing, pulling, selling stuff and use the truck to haul it, etc. You are screwed and Antique insurance is void as well as the plates. The truck has to be registered in you'r name or Antique Museum's. I was told taking trucks to ATHS and other shows, if there was a paid admission fee to look at them it was questionable. Someone was profiting from their use or being there.