AZB755V8

This is my Super with 425's. The other photo in Wheelbase is with Aussie fender flares.

Oops, I misread that 20psi after 6 hours. Rob, thanks for pointing out, air leaks at some of the less obvious locations. I will have to check some of those on my truck, it sure would help to get some of my leaks stopped too.

I would say that a 4psi drop an hour is Great! I have only been in one truck 25-30 year old truck that could come close to that rate of air lose. The two old truck I have will lose easy 30psi an hour just sitting there. I thing the allowable rate for air lose and not really have to worry about it is 2psi a minute in the State Driver Hand Book for AZ. I tightened up the air fitting to the horns and my rate slowed by over 5psi and hour. That is a tight air system you got there.

I'd say that blade is a duel purpose implement outside of raking. Transporting like that any car that goes by is an instant Convertible and any bikers will not be using his head anymore!! Not even a Wide Load banner or flags on the end of the blade, hopefully tranporting out in the middle of no where.

Out this side of the country there are longer wheelbase older trucks. All 3 of these day cabs are 235" give or take an inch or two. Up to a 60" bunk can be put on them with no 5th wheel clearance issues. Also if the truck has a setback front axle the same wheelbase will be about 20-24" longer behind the cab than these.

I've got them both... Both are fine and do the job well. I prefer the inline but it is only because it is the newer one. The inline is the one most truck pullers are looking for. I have seen more of them on Pulling Pickup truck V8's than E9's lately. As far as value the inline is more expensive to get, because of the demand from the P/U guys, but both cost about the same to rebuild. Both can be turned up. There is no real difference in any truck E9 400-500hp except for pump, turbo, intake and oil pan( front or rear sump). A E9 is a E9.... they did not change much. A real difference is the pump timing from year to year. Started with about 17 degrees, 1979 and dropped to 11 about 1990 with the inline pump. It was an EPA thing.

These days have you seen more than 2 or 3 officers at scales or port of entry? They are not going to chase down a questionable truck running the scales. Ever notice how many trucks just roll by and not stop? It is more than a few a minute. Point: Isn't an RV a truck? The thing is COMMERCIAL USE, a Truck is a term used for hauling normally for hire and has a driver that is paid for driving. That was the point in my last post, registration and license matched and PRIVATE... on side of truck, it is an RV. If you stop it just gives a reason to get frustrated and waste everyones time. In states out this way there are roadside cameras and scales going up and building coming down. The Chicken Coupes are becoming a thing of the past. When I went to the ATHS show in Oregon this year there was a paper in the registration pack to show if pulled over stating the same NOT FOR COMMERCIAL USE. Most officers know about the small number of us that what to preserve transportation history and are a little crazy... they don't get into situations they are going to lose or have to let you go...

I haven't when that far in sighting the Federal Rule number on the truck. But did pull into the scales/ port of entry in New Mexico and was told to park it and go into the office because of no DOT#. Went in and showed my Commercial License and the matching truck registration in my name. Also stated it was a private rig and not for hire. The officer said next time have PRIVATE NOT FOR HIRE on the side of the truck. I said you mean like that truck parked right outside the window with PRIVATE NOT FOR HIRE onside in 2 1/2 inch letters. He said YES and have a nice day. I haven't stopped at one scale or port of entry since....

Had the same problem with my E9 pump. Never have had the pedal close to WOT with it turned up like it is. The pedal was great since I got the truck. After time the throttle became very touchy and finally on my way back from Canada it would not come to idle without pulling up on the pedal, a real bitch to shift, not good in the end few miles. My son got his foot under the pedal to help with each shift after we got off the interstate and to the warehouse, about 2 miles. The bellcrank clamp on the pump was real tight but it moved on the throttle shaft when moved by hand. At rebuild the bellcrank was not pushed on enough to engage the serrated teeth on both shaft and bellcrank and in the bolt relief groove and just off the end of the shaft. New bolt pushed in on the shaft another 3/16 inch, new return springs since I cut the originals thinking I needed more tension, all is good. Make sure you have the serrations in both shaft and bellcrank to lock together. Both are needed.

It is a inline pump engine that started in late 92. Can tell from the low intake tube. I can say be careful with a fresh rebuild... If all that work was done why sell it? I bought my Superliner with a low miles rebuilt engine. The rebuild was done in 2005 and it sat for years. It recently dropped a valve seat at 15,000 miles, 3000 after I bought it. In fairness it is turned up a lot, was a sled puller for a time but I was babying it since I got it to feel it out. It does have Reman heads and all Mack parts, big buck rebuild. Get the work order that went with the rebuild., if it is fresh there is a warranty that should transfer. If like me the time ran out years ago not miles. Mack Reman parts are not what they used to be. There is a member or two here that has paid for Genuine Reman and had major issues. Right Superdog? If you get it put some loaded miles on it to make sure all is OK. I had some issues to work out with mine and still have few to go. It was a play truck but I actually haul with it now. By the way what are you looking at, lets see some photos.

If we are going back that far... I used to cut grass and plowed snow for the neighbors around me, 1/4 acre at the most each, I was 9-13. I had two 1958 Wheelhorse Jr tractors my dad got me at a garage sale. One was for cutting and plowing snow the other was for parts but I got it running real good... Both original Clinton 4hp engines got replaces with Army surplus 7hp Kohler engines. The "parts" one I switched the pulleys around and man it was like a go kart. Had to put dual rear AG tires and 110lbs of tire weights, on it to keep from tipping over going around corners. Fill the oversized fronts with washer fluid not to freeze, to keep them on the ground and steer at speed. Dad would have taken it away if he knew it did a honest 25mph, like he did with my go kart. Those old Tecumseh's and Kohler's really run when the governor was disconnected!! The cops couldn't give me a hard time when I saw them any more like the go kart. Just put it in first gear and I was on my way to cut some grass.... miles from my house...

I like that video!! Even if it is for the E9's cousin in Europe. I took my 18 year old son on a trip to Vancouver Canada in July, to pick up two E9 MH's and a spare E9 as a matter of fact. One good MH and a few spare parts will come out of everything. He is a go fast kid, has a twin turbo Beemer, speeding tickets and others... Going though the mountains it was funny, and woke him up hearing the engine sing. Dad, Dad it isn't normal to be passing everything going up the mountain is it and where is the locomotive?? I said so now you can understand I don't listen much to the radio in the Superliner the song it plays is just fine. Yah the old truck does break, needs care, drinks fuel a little, smokes more than most today, sort of like the old man that it is. I would not get rid of it for anything... well maybe a load of Benjamin's. There is nothing like a wound up E9 with strait pipes, pulling a good grade with a load. I got a good standing offer on the trip for the old dog when it is time to let it go.

That is a nice job. Only there are no grass clippings... it looks too good! OSHA would have a problem with it these days having no guards. I made a lot of money working on that stuff over the years. Then I started to mess with Mack's.

That is EZ... They shine when you step on the pedal and really comes to life. Pro: Owning one. Con: Wishing you owned one and asking why you should have one. Pro, Pro: Owning more than one, knowing how to work on it and having parts. Con,Con: Finding one that is toasted and needs a lot of work, cant work on it yourself...$$$ to fix no one really around to work on them anymore and no parts.

I got actually three tanks, one for a spare, from, www.truck parts inventory.com for $125 each. They have the photo and size of the tanks, there are 118 Mack tanks as of this morning. Call them to ask if the ones you are interested in are one or two compartment and how many ports. The ones I got polished up real nice and one had a small dent from a rock underneath that could not be seen until polished. I did have to plug a port or two. Had them in 4 days UPS. It might work for you.

Think we had a topic on air tanks before. Welding on air tanks is a bad idea. Just as I would not weld up brake drums, Brakes and air is nothing to mess with. This is one part I would find good used ones or if new was available opt for them even at the cost. Bought nice used aluminum 2 tank set for $250, each tank was $625-675 new each. I think if a DOT stop found welded up air tanks they would have it towed on the spot, with special instruction, as the tow air runs though the system too. I have welded fuel tanks but they hold no pressure with no problems.

Sometimes it is just good to go with what is there. The turbo shop should be able to get more out of your unit with a rebuild and wheel change. A good running 237 is a tough engine to beat and many, millions of, miles have been put on them. Had a friend that has a real good 237, Triplex combo in a B, the truck just plane hauled... Trans would be questionable if running with that torque fully loaded for a long time. I get in race mode even with these old truck, always can get more out of them but at a cost....

Yep, 15psi is on the low side and the turbo is showing signs is age as Larry states. Leaks are alway possible, check the stamped steel intake seams. A sudden drop in 2psi could be weather, leak or the turbine giving up. It is easy enough to pull the exhaust and look into the turbine to see if more damage has happened. A good used E7 turbo should not be more than a few hundred bucks. Newer Tech and had more boost to start with, a day at the most for the swap.

Just a thought on this.... What were the weather conditions, Temp, Hg pressure and humidity had a effect on how an engine runs. I think you drag race, same setup and one weeks runs to the next can be off quite a bit. Maybe the old girl was having a bad day, There is a lot of low pressure in your area now with the storms. Back years ago I could fell the difference in the power of my old MOPAR with the change in weather. Some nights it was a dog others nothing could touch it. Only thing was everyones car was doing the same thing... we all had fasters times. When EGT goes up, turbo efficiency goes down. I would bet that you take it on another run in cooler dryer weather your temps will be down and boost will be up. 1000 degrees should not hurt the turbine, I start backing off at 1100. It does seem that at that high temp, boost levels out. A newer turbo off a mechanical E7 would be a good upgrade, another 10-15 psi in boost would be a big kick in the rear. Only keep track of engine temp.

Mig welding is the way to go. Get some round bar stock, 8620 would be a good steel to use, and turn it down on a lathe to fit tight in the holes, cut it an 1/8 inch longer than the rail thickness. Weld around it and grind down to flush with frame. Smaller than 3/8 inch holes just fill in with weld from both sided.

If you can turn the cable from inside the truck there is the problem. You should not be able to turn the cable any more than maybe a quarter turn before it binds up. If it is tuning freely the cable tip going into the square drive in the trans is not engaged to the tip of the cable. If you just replaced the inner cable it maybe to short to the length of the outer, a 1/4-1/2 inch is all it has to be short and not work. I converted mine to a electronic setup along with the Tach drive and have not had cable problems sense.

I had it done to a fiberglass KW sleeper top. One of the old Aerodyne's for my Superliner, to get the Aussie look. The guy that did the soda blast knew his stuff. Yes he did Vett's and anything else. He could use gravel down to walnut shells and had it all. The soda does work but depending on the quality and condition of the fiberglass the result will vary. Unlike 41chevy the fiberglass in my sleeper was very poor quality and had a lot of cracks from age. The soda will open them up and take off very thin gel coat which most truck fiberglass has. The option of using chemicals is really bad as it will get into the porous layer and never come out. You will never have a good paint job with the possible blistering later on. Only way to prep is mechanical sanding or soda blast, sand blasting is to abrasive for fiberglass.

There are some good body fillers products out there that work great. Be prepared to pay for it, last gallon I got was $85. I must be getting old, I remember when a good gallon was $20... There is nothing like good clean rails, a lot of guys comment on my trucks and ask if the rails are new, no they are not just a lot of work and some body filler. Weld up the big pits and holes, I hate unused holes... Start with a clean decent pair helps too. I have reframed one and doing a second to have original uncut or sliced frames but that is extreme. Filler is like Dave's Redhot... I put that shit on everything, just in moderation and good taste. 1st The start of restoration a Texas one owner B75, 2nd Worked on original B rails from California, 3rd Finished B-755

Only thing I found was rod bearings are still available. I believe they are the same as the E9. All else.... well good luck. I rebuilt my 866 is 1996 and parts were becoming scarce then. There was only one part number left for standard main bearing out of 3. Plus they were $255 for just the main set at Mack. Just one ring set was close to $100 back then or $800 for a complete set!! Have not heard of head gaskets even for a long time... don't pull the heads or if, be really carful to reuses the gaskets with sealer. If you find parts let us know I would be interested. The days of running the old V8's is done, no parts. I have one as a hobby engine in my B, it is the one I rebuilt years ago, but most guys don't even know what it is. Wish it was not so but the E9 is not far behind, very few know much about them anymore, less know how to work on them and parts are getting harder to get too.

Taking a closer look at that engine, those are E9 heads. Same bore but bigger stroke. Still wonder why it got shelved??