AZB755V8

I like your V8 emblem wonder where you got the idea? Best place to get the small dogs is on ash trays believe it or not. Most all are in really good condition as well.

I don't know about check valves in filters but from personal experience. To start the only way to loos the prime is for fuel to drain out of the fuel galley in the injector pump. The only way that happens is that air is getting in to the galley. Stop the leak to maintain the prime. There are a few ways this happens and a few more than that if the first few don't Geter-Dunn. I work on older engines so some of this may not apply to the newer stuff. Goes without saying, Check and tighten all fuel line connections. First, to check if equipped the manual hand primer. The o-rings in them leak after time. Just replace it, real Bosch replacements are under $35. Second, the charge, lift or little pump the primer is attached to, what ever you want to call it will leak internally. There are 2 little plastic disc check valves in it that wear and leak fuel back to the fuel tank. The disc can be removed and sanded flat again with 600 grit wet sandpaper. Finish be rubbing them on a matchbox cover to polish them with a little rubbing compound. Third, The fuel return valve on the side of the injection pump is not sealing when the engine is shut down. This is were the fuel return line from the pump is attached. There are several different styles ranging from $15-$250 to replace. There maybe several other lines connected to it from the fuel injectors drains. It is not repairable and would need replaced. Last if fuel lines are old they can have micro cracks in them and leak air in when not under pressure. Replace the supply and return fuel lines. These are the EZ fixes I have done. If one of them don't work then onto a second round of fixes...

No... No They offered way More>> Maybe a few ratings for the E7. Adding Renault had E9's, 360, 400, 440, 450, 500, 520, 530, 560, 610, 625, 750, 900, 1000 horsepower and I think 850 and a few more. So it was all Renaults: What day or week is it and we can make any horse power engine to match.... Why, because we can or could at the time. Think it was more of a European thing or way of thinking more anything else. Then add the E6 and other non-Mack engines like: Cummins, Detroit, Caterpillar, there is every horsepower you could think of.

Well I thought I had one good spare set of manifolds/turbo mount. I was getting the part number off the spare casting for Vlad and.... HO...CRACK... Did not notice them them before sandblasting & Ceramic Coating. Not one but two that go all the way though to the inside surfaces. Crappy Cracks... well have to start looking for a spare now along with Vlad. This was the liquid to air intercooler on the Superliner. It was connected to the air to air intercooler on one side and to the engine on the other. It worked good for about 45 seconds then the water was almost boiling using a 20 gallon tank. 2 water inlets and outlets 1.25" Diameter. Flowed 60 gallons a minute. Intercooler tank that was in the chain locker behind the cab. It is a 20 Gallon tank with the pumps inside. The set-up is off the truck now. Just no need for it on a road truck with just 45 seconds of usefulness before boiling the water. Truck pulling or Drag racing it would be Great. A lesson learned. The tank engine will have four liquid to air intercoolers and a 100 gallon fuel tank converted to by the water reservoir.

The boost will be there. The Turbo technology since these engines were built has come light years ahead. The Garrett turbos on the E9's normally had boost in the low 20psi and narrow RPM range. Todays turbos will make 65-70psi and a broad RPM range. The Single Turbo on the Superliner made 60psi and spooled up at 1800-3500rpm's then just starts to fall off up to 4000rpm with the old Holeset. Now with a new Borg Warner SE500-91 it is 65-70psi, gauge needle bounces a lot. 1200-4000rpm range. Think I now need liquid filled pressure gauge? Look close on the hood to see the Superman E9-1200. That is NO Joke and the power is to the ground. The flywheel HP is 1500 from the Mack engineers specs/recipe that it was built to. Pump was done at Antrim Diesel years ago. This is with air to air into a water to air intercooler. To the right that is a 91mm Holset T5 that is long gone, number 8 cylinder dropped and ate a valve seat in Cleveland, went though the turbo, and kept on rolling into Phoenix 2000 mile later on 7 cylinders still passing just about anything on the road. Of course there was a "little" extra smoke form the stacks. Heard about it a few times on the CB, I just said give me five mile and you will never known I was there. The boost that I will be OK with is 120psi for the Tank engine project. The engine will spin at least 1000rpm over the 2500/2600rpm military governor so stock turbos may not get it done before running out of air. The truck this is going in is a MH Ultraliner for a few reasons. The engine will be moved back about 2 feet to where the frame narrows. Engine will still be under the cab. The reason is the turbos will hang down on the outside of the frame rails and not interfere with the front tires or steering. I will have to angle out the turbos to get the clearance with some custom wedges between heads and manifolds. No frame alterations except making it a single axel from the Canadian spread tandem it is now.

The 3 pumps are ready to go to the pump shop this week along with 3 sets of injectors to get cleaned and pop-off pressures set. One stock set is getting military nozzles, one set already had them. They were in the tank turbo mockup engine and the V-Pump was turned up to Max. The third set is for competition only and duel feed units capable of 2500hp plus. These should be fine but just want the spray patters checked. They will be used in this Quad Turbo engine along with the 14mm pump. The damaged P-pump valve holders will be replaces with Bosch parts. Aftermarket ones are about $30 each but I am not thrilled on them. I do have the Socket to remove them as well but it is off to the pump shop anyway for recalibration. Vlad, If you look on the pallet the four head manifolds are laying there. Those are the only Exhaust manifolds I got with this engine the other pieces were gone. I have one complete spare set of E9 manifolds that I am saving for the other trucks that I have. Manifolds are hard to come by in good shape. Take a photo of your turbo mounting section. From your full engine photo the turbo is off to the right side a lot. Knowing that it is opposite a Mack application it may be the same part or easy to modify, it would mount on the bellhousing in the same location. It was a rare rainy day here, a prefect day to go to the shop and get a little more mocked up. Cool tank manifolds, the right side is a three piece unit. The reason is exhaust cylinder pulsation. What that means is the small turbos are split or divided housing units The way they work best is to have an even left/right exhaust pulse for the corresponding cylinders. Mack engineering did their homework, true Factory Hot Dog Stuff. The left side is a two piece unit that is split as well just not the same as the right. Not the single log manifold, as seen on the pallet, that is on all E9's in truck use. Heat shielding that I will be reusing are stainless honeycomb military spec. Right side manifold, have some work to get the large turbo to fit with the parts I have. It has to be moved back a few inches and up a few as well. The electric engine brakes is going by-by, to much exhaust restriction. Right side three piece manifold. Got the Large turbo almost in the right location for now. It is a open entry T6 mount. Actually these turbos are very close in size the the single turbo used on the E9-500.

I found a NEW inline E9 pump and the topic strayed to Hot Dogging Macks and such. So this topic is about getting the most out of what you got, not just keeping the old dog barely alive. To start I Love BIG Power, it comes at a price but with these Old Macks is so EZ to Have. Not for everyday working truck modifications but for hobby trucks and occasional outings to take the old mechanical dog on a "Run". This topic will not be for all but will be useful information all the same. I finally got some space and time to pull out the Tank Quad Turbo set-up that I got some time ago. In preparation for this I was looking for inline E9 injector pumps. To start the NEW E9 Pump was damaged in shipment. Fed-Ex Said that claim was to be files by the shipper. Pump came from Italy so not hoping for a lot. It has to go to the pump shop for repairs so.... Lets get it Turned-up. Thinking 20% on fuel and 20% on the governor. This will be a Hot road engine maybe going in a MH Ultraliner that is out beside the shop, only has 118,000 original Km on the ticker. Along with that I got a pump or two that I got over the years to put on the calibration machine just to see where things are at. (2) 12mm, 13mm & 14mm shown. Power start with the pump and you got to know where things are at to begin with. Now the Tank Engine set-up. Mocking this up today on more than likely the engine that will be rebuilt to handle the power output that this set-up will deliver with a 14mm pump and a little "Secret" stuff. No shifting required with this set-up, as manual trans do not shift well over 2500RPM's. Trans is the bullet proof cable shifted, no electronics, Allison HT750CR Automatic. There were only a very few E9's with Automatics orders only by the US Military and I believe they were HT740 Allison's. Lets talk, Hot Rod Stuff, From the other post 300bar injector pop-off is higher than Mack spec but it works better for fuel atomization it is 50bar higher than Mack spec. About every 25bar the engine timing needs advances 1 degree, 2 degrees for 50bar.

I am going to start another topic: Hot Dogs, Can't Run Stay on the Porch. I stayed off this forum for some time from the shake-up but want liven up things a little with some like minded Mackholics. Lets talk Hot Dogs!!

If I was planning on putting a HOT E9 in a hobby truck there would be no need to get all kinds of parts, just work with mostly what I have. If all parts are reusable: Standard pistons, sleeves. Check diameters and roundness to specifications. Sleeves do crack, check to see if there is any rust scares in the sleeves. Hone the sleeves use new rings. All new bearings, gaskets and seals. "Small Head" bolts these are the better ones. Head bolts do snap on these engines. Do a valve job, check guides. Original valve springs should be fine, have them checked for seat pressure at install height. Maybe shim to increase seat pressure 20-25lbs. Valve seats come loose on E9's with added heat and not driving them properly. Never take your foot off the peddle completely after pulling a long incline. Keep some heat going on the downgrade. Turn pump up 20% on fuel and 20% on RPM's, that is 255cc on fuel, stock is 212cc for 500hp. Governor from stock 1900 to 2300RPM's. Use the stock injectors and nozzles set to 300Bar. This is good for 625 plus horse power and will run down any other truck on the road. Adding a new Borg Warner SE480, large exhaust wheel Turbo, around 1.18 A/R exhaust housing and that is it. You have to get a clutch capable of holding 3000ft/lbs of torque giving your left leg a workout. Most inline pumps ether 6 or 8cyl are 10-12mm barrels. 13mm and above sizes are not stock, in most cases, There is a 13mm, PE8P130A pump that is used on the Big Iveco Eurostar in Europe but is a base mount not a flange mount pump as on a Mack. One thing that I need to state DO NOT WORK ON ANY INJECTION PUMP, TAKE IT TO A REPUTABLE PUMP SHOP. You can not do the work without a calibration bench and machine. They will recalibrate the fuel delivery, the governor and pop off pressure for the injectors. There are very few shops that will modify a pump with larger barrels, cam, delivery valves, etc. Never use anything but factory Bosch parts for the pump. RPM's are not your friend the lower the better. I can say that a T2180 will not shift if you are over 2500RPM's, it will stay in gear until the input speed comes down.

It used to be TOP SECRET stuff. Sort of like keeping the HOT ROD tricks and secrets to gaining horse power in a small block Chevrolet from others. It doesn't matter now to many guys. When there was someone to compete against it mattered. It does matter to the Tractor and Truck sled pulling crowd and much is still secret for huge diesel power. Mack E9's have almost gone out of existence even at those events. The NEW pump that I just received is calibrated at 500hp & 1900RPM high speed limit but recalibrated is good for 900hp and any RPM up and over 6000 limits. Any mechanical pump has a range of fuel delivery and governor speed that can be set at a reputable injection pump shop. I am only talking for Mack E9's and if someone want to chime in please do. There are a some here that know more than I do, I hope to learn something as well. The E9 will produce a lot of power if it is taken care of. The length of time it can be producing large amounts of power is dependent on a even larger amount of variables, Temperatures and Pressures are critical, coolant, charge air, intercooling, oil, EGT and on. This engine was developed and spec'd by a Mack engineer, Steve Trevitz, that was instrumental in the E9 development at Mack Hagerstown. He was the factory E9 Hot Rod Guy. It will make 1500hp and close to 4000ft/lbs of torque @ 4000RPM. So that is double factory maximum governor limits and triple the fuel settings. There is more that is done but this is enough for now. Like sizing turbo, nozzles, fuel lines, charge pump volume and pressure, etc that have to work together. It starts with the injection pump. It is mainly the size of the plungers and barrels that inject the fuel into the engine. I have 11, 12, 13 and 14mm diameter pumps these are 12 & 14mm pumps. There are even larger pumps available but for competition use only. Just to say stock unmodified pumps are good for: 11mm (V-Pump) good to 650hp 12mm (P-Pump) good to 900hp 13mm (P-Pump) good to 1500hp this is the one on the engine above. 14mm (P-Pump) good to 2200-2500hp this is only a race or off road item and is modified. Alone with that nozzles need to be sized correctly and the all important Turbo. All of these pumps can make more power but have to be modified and that is the SECRET STUFF in the injection pump shop....

The difference in steering pumps is the truck not the difference in the engine. The difference is the steering box oil requirements. The old F, R, U and others had lower oil supply need to operate and the reservoir was attached to the pump. I have a single a double steering box truck with E9's for power. The double steering box pump and separate reservoir is considerably larger than the single steering box unit.

I would think they are interchangeable little 856cu/in to big E9. they have the same auxiliary drive housing. I have both but never took time to compare the two.

If you still have the 864 it is a double disc clutch. The tranny has to be for a double disc clutch as used on 864/865/866 as the input shaft is longer than a standard Triplex or Quad box. Hope you still have the double disc tranny. If not you will have to go with a newer longer input tranny used behind the newer engines V8 & 6's with that double disc pusher clutch setup. The old single disc will not hold 600ft/lbs of torque.

Only real difference between a 865 & 866 is the injection pump settings and the stamping on the oil pan rail. No difference in the air compressor that I know of think it is a Bendex 500 Trueflow. I may have one laying around. You got the power steering pump? There were several different ones for the V8's. The hardest thing to find is the drive gears for the compressor and pump.

See you got a B755 LS. The one I got has a 866 375hp and a Quad in it. What are you hunting for?

I would recommend a Borg Warner Airwerks Turbo. A SX300 or maybe a small SX400 would defiantly add a kick in the rear to the old dog. I do not mess with E6's but it is simply matching what you got with 25 year newer technology. You need to measure the intake diameter and exhaust diameter of the turbo. The other thing is the A/R number on the exhaust turbine housing. If these three things are known a turbo can be selected that will run circles around the stock one. Adding a turbo blanket helps also. Boost should be in the range of 50psi plus. Maybe turn the fuel up 10% and it will run like never before.

Been a while since my last visit but got something to tell. I have been looking for inline pumps for my E9's for years. Found a few, missed out on a few more. But today I got the Holy Grail of Mack Inline pumps. A new never on an engine PES8P Bosch E9-500 pump from Italy. A Smoking Deal to boot! Actually it is for a Renault 500AE Magnum which is the Mack E9's Europe name when Renault ran the company. Renault was responsible for putting the E9 in French military tanks and transporters rated between 750-900hp. This is probably one of the last new never on an engine pumps in existence. Just had to share something seldom seen or known to still be available. Wild goose chases do turn out well some times, didn't what to tell and junks myself before it was in my greasy hands. By the way there are rebuilt Bosch PE8P 13mm inline pumps available from the same place just not face mounted but a mounting place could be fabricated without to much trouble for Big Horse Power. Got a real nice BW S400 Turbo and new military nozzles to go with it too. How does a conservative 800hp sound?

Sorry a little rusty at uploading photos but this is it.

http://donwilbur.com/uploads/3/4/5/1/34514782/edited/1948-mack-ramp.jpg?1575419857 Found this by chance, no relation. Listed only as a 1948 Mack but is surly not. Looks like a complete B-73, L Cab and maybe a diamond in the rough. Has heavy cone axle rear. Make Offer.... www.donwilbur.com is where it is listed Located in Oregon

Sorry, the turbo's are long gone. All of the B and LT parts I had recently sold as well. Down to just complete trucks now.

No, Not at this time. Covid has all but shut down my business.

Sounds like a lot of talk but maybe that is all you are wanting. If pulling a head is to expensive and so on a Mack is not going to be an inexpensive toy. Stick with a small block Chevy maybe in a 70's car so parts are cheap and the vehicle is EZ to work on. I commented earlier in this post to help but did not think that it would be tuning into a snivel feast. So replace a piston & liner or two and get the old dog running instead of taking 2 weeks to talk about what you don't want to do. No one said a Mack was cheap so buck-up or shut-up. We are here for advise but you have to do something with it or it is a big waste of time for everyone.

From experience a mouse nest is not needed to have the condition you are describing. As said a valve or two is open at anytime in an engine just sitting. Water and moisture are usually the root cause of a stuck engine, be it gas or diesel. It takes a small amount to do damage to a cylinder liner, piston and rings over years of sitting. How the water/moisture gets into the cylinder is more a concern that what it has done to the cylinder. Most of the time it is though an open intake or exhaust valve. Removing the manifolds would tell that story. Other things that can happen are a leak in the head gasket or a crack in the piston sleeve for these wet sleeve engines. A cracked head is possible as well. I have had all of these issues over the years. An E9 ran great when it was pulled, I did not drain the block and stored it for several years in a temp controlled building. Pulled it down for rebuild recently and one cylinder had about a tablespoon of coolant in it. Liner was rust stained, small pits and under inspection had a 1 1/2" crack in it just above where the piston sat for years. It is hard to get a scope bent around to see the cylinder walls when putting it down the injector hole epecially if the rust is high in the cylinder. My bet is this condition, even if you get it unstuck there maybe ring, sleeve and piston corrosion damage. For oil filters it is not uncommon to have several oil filters on a truck. The large one with 1" lines is a full flow filter right from the oil pump. The smaller one is normally a bypass filter for other engine functions.

Sure, there are several ways to do it. Depends how good the fit is between the male and female parts. If there are groves worn into the female parts putty or cement is best. I think the actual seal rings from Mack are NLA. If you want to take the time get a piston ring catalog from Total Seal or some other ring manufacture, measure the female diameter and width of groove on the male and order rings to match, not the same as Mack parts but will work. Let us know what part numbers you come up with. If that is more than you want to do and have deep grooves in the parts get some boiler putty or wood stove seal cement. Got to leave it sit over night then run it up over 600 degrees for a while on the pyro the next day to cure, should be fine until next time.

The Gold one I have is flat on the bottom to sit flat on a surface. I can cut it to match the one already on the Superliner though.