AZB755V8

Guess that is None, but why post None in the Trucks for Sale section if there is None. Would it be right to just not post if there is None? Come to think of it never heard of a None truck, interesting??

There would have to be a doghouse modification to a B-615 to get the clearance around the turbo. It was a tight fit to put a 866 Thermodyne in my B755. No mods but tight. What did both of you do for the oil filters? The 865/866 standard twin spin on filters did not fit because of steering box location. I used the full flow remote Luberfinder and plumping off the retired 864. For power steering the only thing that worked for me was the hydraulic control valve on the drag link and slave on the tie rod setup because of no room for anything else. Don't know if that setup is still available. Need photos or they don't exist. 🙃

Just for reference the firing order is numbered like a Ford V8. 1-4 on one side 5-8 on the other. What truck is it in an R or F would be my guess.

Aftermarket R Model doors work and are the only new doors you will find unless there are a few forgotten in a warehouse somewhere. Even after market R doors are getting harder to get. They are just primed with no rust preventative measures. So the better you prep them before paint the longer they will last. As for fit it also depends on who is hanging them on your truck. A work truck will take less time that having a perfect fit on a restoration project. When restoring my B-Model I did get new doors from Mack (25 years ago). There were bare metal and had dolly and hammer work to door seal and edges to fit properly. Recently put a set of R doors on a truck, they are fine and do work. Will probably out last the rest of the cab. I got a few sets at that time. If you are looking I still got a set of new in the box aftermarket R doors, $400 a door plus the ride.

That is a real low millage engine. Like a 1000 miles a year low. There are plenty of E-9 engine manuals on Ebay. I have seen a few 865/866 manuals over time. Get an E-9 manual as it is the big brother to an 865. The E-9 has the same valve adjustment procedure with the addition of the cross-bridge you would not use anyway, 865's don't have them all else is the same. 865 (2valve),E-9 (4valve)

That load should be a walk in the park even for a 2V E6. EGT's shouldn't even hit 900. To much fuel and not enough timing and air. You being a Tech know that black smoke is to much fuel and a lot more for the show and high EGT's. Injectors are matched to the supply of the pump and should be flowed to match the new setting on the pump. Turn it down, have a pump shop do it and reduce the EGT instead of countering with a bigger turbo. You will see a jump in power by properly setting a pump 10% over and 200-300 RPM's over on the governor and be good with that. A bigger turbo was a big issue, low end torque and boost is not there so drivability with a trailer with shifting suffer, been there done that myself. Looks like that tractor has some mod's. Same principals work on truck engines. Certainly not going to get a full days work out of that tractor set-up for sled pulling. Noticed the added step on the fuel tank looks solid mounted and low. Hate to see if it hooks on something and fuel goes everywhere from tearing a weld. That R Model and International look Great by the way.

Changing pump setting, turbo, timing is a black art with Mack's. Most everyone says to leave everything stock. I certainly agree but if you are the owner/driver and understand that Mack put a lot of time and money into developing the engine you have changing it may cause catastrophic damage. That said I can not leave well enough alone to get more power out of most things and have messed with some of this stuff. Got amazing power and done damage to, pistons, liners, turbos, valves, heads, etc. If you are low on cash do not do anything, 30psi boost is actually good for a 2V E6. By changing a stock turbo with a stock turbo what is to gain? To get more boost and have some tunability an after market turbo is needed. A Borg-Warner S400 turbo is a good start. Around 68-72mm and the smallest split exhaust housing. Maybe $1000. You will get 45-50psi boost, probable blow head gaskets, scorch pistons, overheat, have bearing failure, etc. if your foot is in it to long but will pull like crazy. Reliability goes in the toilet if you push it to far.

I got both left and right MH windshields around a year ago from Vangard Mack in Phoenix. They got a crate of 2 left and 2 right left. They had to order 3 sets from Mack when I got mine. More than likely they still have them. Think it was around $200 for a pair. Just get one from them and not have to buy more only issue maybe the shipping.

At that price, quick sale and condition its got a long boat ride coming. It's a shame nice 6x6 truck.

I got a drivers side with a dent in it (take a look a photo) about the same spot, $300 plus the ride. Can do a no dent driver or passenger for $400 each plus shipping. PM if interested

I'm not into do-dads or Whitney mail order ether. I do like chrome just not those big bumpers. I could do some nice things in stitching for interiors though. I don't do seats but can supply the stitched material to match the interior. I am working on two companies to drum up work not related to interior kits. If one of them comes though I am going to take the plunge.

Don't think it would be that hard if I had templates. Was it the same cab as an R model?

Want color is your dash? I have a grey that will match it better than anything from the factory. There are some good spray on dye colors to freshen up any dash. I have to see but the material I use maybe can be glued to an existing dash with a little heating & stretching.

I really like the E9 for many reasons but unfortunately it is not an engine for everyone. I got more than a few of them still. There is no support from Mack anymore, Tech's at Vangard Mack here in AZ have never seen one let alone been trained to work on one. Vary few places can work on them so if you are getting one plan on working on it yourself or being by a place that can. Check that out before buying one. If you are using the truck for a primary money maker it may not be your first choice. If for a secondary or hobby unit it is a great choice. Nothing like a E9-500 for power, sound, durability, as long as you take care of it. They are all mechanical so no ECM or wiring issues. They do drop valve seats. Had a BAD ReMan head from Mack that dropped a seat in less than 15000 miles. Truck was down for 2 weeks for parts to fixed after driving 2000 miles home on 7 cylinders. Smoking like crazy but never down on power.

Talked to Barry before posting this thread. We can work out something. He said that I would do good at the East Coast shows with guys seeing a kit in person. So that means I got to take the Superliner on tour when shows start to happen again. Should have the bunk on it by then, good place to put the interior kits to transport & sell. Those are the $950 fender flairs I got from Australia. Nice but shipping cost was outrageous.

Yes I know that but I am talking about the USA and $1500 for a set. Most things can be gotten from somewhere if you want to pay the price then add shipping. Then have a problem and try and return it, LOL. Add that together and it is really pricey and far more than I am talking by at least twice the $$$$. Besides the AUS drive on the other side of the road, don't know if that would make a big difference. It would in kick panels and carpet. I got Superliner front fender flares from AUS years ago. Paid $350 for the parts and $600 for shipping because of dimensional weight, actual weight was 12 pounds. If that is any indication shipping to the USA would be over $1000 for an interior kit now. Shipper will hits you up for the difference once it is delivered to you! Really just asking if there was an interest if I started making kits to justify the expense of the equipment. I'm looking for customers, Ya Know

Can make it ether way, long or short! It will not be the preformed plastic insert. The backer is plastic instead of cardboard. Just have to screw or Ultra High Bond 3M double side tape it in. Using the plastic backer works great for two reasons, it does not distort with moisture and tape sticks to it real good. It is also more expensive than cardboard.

I talked to the Daycab company recently and they Only do Peterbilt, Kenworth and Western Star. Anywhere between $1500-2500. No Mack... I am a Mack guy and don't really have interest in what they do so all is good. I am just trying to figure out how popular producing interiors for 20 year old plus truck will be. Machinery cost $$ and have work to pay for it is nice to know before hand.

Just starting up and the R model I have patterns for. Other interiors I would have to see a few photos and get an old interior to work from. First is the R model.

Anyone interested in New R Model interiors? I have Black and Tan material on order now. Possibly, Blue, Red and Gray. Starting prototype panels now to see how it will stitch out. These interiors will be as close to original as possible but with new materials. Vinyl is possible as used in the OEM stuff but mono-tone not the "like something was smeared all over it look". The new Faux leather look material is really nice, durable and a real upgrade. Both Eastern and Western styles will be produced. Western "bulldog" on door will be embroidered not heat sealed. Just putting it out here to see if there is an real interest to make and stock interior kits. I have checked everywhere and no one is making kits for R Models, I need one for my RW. Pricing for door panels, headliner, lower cab back, windshield pillars and above door panels will be about $1500. Western slightly higher due to diamond tuck stitching. Carpet and kick panels will be available a little later. Kits should be available about 2 months after I decide to pull the trigger and buy the piece of needed CNC equipment to stitch out the panels. This is a big investment to produce a top quality product and actually do small production runs. What you guys say or commit to here will determine if this will happen. All that said is there any interest in having made in the USA by American's classic Mack R Model interiors?

Found out and it has to do with the year truck was made. 55QS23 Curved handle was used up to 1979 55QS29309A Straight handle was used after 1979 Makes sense that the A designation is usually a revision for Mack Both worked with the padded interior door panels with no rubbing. Extra clearance with the 55QS29309A Found these online, New for $21 each with pins and Free shipping. By the way there are two different window crank handles.

What is the correct interior door handle for a 1989 RW Superliner? I got one of both, one on each door. These are the numbers on the back of the parts: 55QS23 Curved Handle 55QS23309A Straight Handle

Both doors are the same glass. A good glass shop is your best bet. If you have the old piece even cracked they can use it for a template. Had to have that done for an L cab. If you need tinted windshield glass I have a set OEM in the box, let me know.

No one said Mack stuff was cheap. Most of it is built well but rust and corrosion protection was not a high priority until they started to galvanize R model metal cabs, fiberglass for the MH. All else was left to the elements. You want to play with the big dogs, buck-up. PAI has stuff but not everything. You can stay on the porch and whine like a school girl otherwise, or search for parts. I am constantly looking. LOL There are a few here that have parts but this is not the place for everything you may need. Some really good advise here as well. You ain't messing with a Yugo here. Good used parts are fine to, just have to find them which is half the fun of keeping these trucks road worthy if your's is a hobby truck. Work truck, got to have the parts now to keep them working and pay the price.

I have had good luck with MH parts at Mack. Even got new windshields and gasket for reasonable price. Yes the prices are list but I have a relationship with a counter guy or two and get 15-20% off. Have to look but the lower box maybe MH specific. The tops are the same as most R models, with several finish options. Unless yours are really bad weld a 3/16" plat in the bottom and let it go, buy new tops, that is what everyone sees anyway.