AZB755V8

That load should be a walk in the park even for a 2V E6. EGT's shouldn't even hit 900. To much fuel and not enough timing and air. You being a Tech know that black smoke is to much fuel and a lot more for the show and high EGT's. Injectors are matched to the supply of the pump and should be flowed to match the new setting on the pump. Turn it down, have a pump shop do it and reduce the EGT instead of countering with a bigger turbo. You will see a jump in power by properly setting a pump 10% over and 200-300 RPM's over on the governor and be good with that. A bigger turbo was a big issue, low end torque and boost is not there so drivability with a trailer with shifting suffer, been there done that myself. Looks like that tractor has some mod's. Same principals work on truck engines. Certainly not going to get a full days work out of that tractor set-up for sled pulling. Noticed the added step on the fuel tank looks solid mounted and low. Hate to see if it hooks on something and fuel goes everywhere from tearing a weld. That R Model and International look Great by the way.

Changing pump setting, turbo, timing is a black art with Mack's. Most everyone says to leave everything stock. I certainly agree but if you are the owner/driver and understand that Mack put a lot of time and money into developing the engine you have changing it may cause catastrophic damage. That said I can not leave well enough alone to get more power out of most things and have messed with some of this stuff. Got amazing power and done damage to, pistons, liners, turbos, valves, heads, etc. If you are low on cash do not do anything, 30psi boost is actually good for a 2V E6. By changing a stock turbo with a stock turbo what is to gain? To get more boost and have some tunability an after market turbo is needed. A Borg-Warner S400 turbo is a good start. Around 68-72mm and the smallest split exhaust housing. Maybe $1000. You will get 45-50psi boost, probable blow head gaskets, scorch pistons, overheat, have bearing failure, etc. if your foot is in it to long but will pull like crazy. Reliability goes in the toilet if you push it to far.

I got both left and right MH windshields around a year ago from Vangard Mack in Phoenix. They got a crate of 2 left and 2 right left. They had to order 3 sets from Mack when I got mine. More than likely they still have them. Think it was around $200 for a pair. Just get one from them and not have to buy more only issue maybe the shipping.

At that price, quick sale and condition its got a long boat ride coming. It's a shame nice 6x6 truck.

I got a drivers side with a dent in it (take a look a photo) about the same spot, $300 plus the ride. Can do a no dent driver or passenger for $400 each plus shipping. PM if interested

I'm not into do-dads or Whitney mail order ether. I do like chrome just not those big bumpers. I could do some nice things in stitching for interiors though. I don't do seats but can supply the stitched material to match the interior. I am working on two companies to drum up work not related to interior kits. If one of them comes though I am going to take the plunge.

Don't think it would be that hard if I had templates. Was it the same cab as an R model?

Want color is your dash? I have a grey that will match it better than anything from the factory. There are some good spray on dye colors to freshen up any dash. I have to see but the material I use maybe can be glued to an existing dash with a little heating & stretching.

I really like the E9 for many reasons but unfortunately it is not an engine for everyone. I got more than a few of them still. There is no support from Mack anymore, Tech's at Vangard Mack here in AZ have never seen one let alone been trained to work on one. Vary few places can work on them so if you are getting one plan on working on it yourself or being by a place that can. Check that out before buying one. If you are using the truck for a primary money maker it may not be your first choice. If for a secondary or hobby unit it is a great choice. Nothing like a E9-500 for power, sound, durability, as long as you take care of it. They are all mechanical so no ECM or wiring issues. They do drop valve seats. Had a BAD ReMan head from Mack that dropped a seat in less than 15000 miles. Truck was down for 2 weeks for parts to fixed after driving 2000 miles home on 7 cylinders. Smoking like crazy but never down on power.

Talked to Barry before posting this thread. We can work out something. He said that I would do good at the East Coast shows with guys seeing a kit in person. So that means I got to take the Superliner on tour when shows start to happen again. Should have the bunk on it by then, good place to put the interior kits to transport & sell. Those are the $950 fender flairs I got from Australia. Nice but shipping cost was outrageous.

Yes I know that but I am talking about the USA and $1500 for a set. Most things can be gotten from somewhere if you want to pay the price then add shipping. Then have a problem and try and return it, LOL. Add that together and it is really pricey and far more than I am talking by at least twice the $$$$. Besides the AUS drive on the other side of the road, don't know if that would make a big difference. It would in kick panels and carpet. I got Superliner front fender flares from AUS years ago. Paid $350 for the parts and $600 for shipping because of dimensional weight, actual weight was 12 pounds. If that is any indication shipping to the USA would be over $1000 for an interior kit now. Shipper will hits you up for the difference once it is delivered to you! Really just asking if there was an interest if I started making kits to justify the expense of the equipment. I'm looking for customers, Ya Know

Can make it ether way, long or short! It will not be the preformed plastic insert. The backer is plastic instead of cardboard. Just have to screw or Ultra High Bond 3M double side tape it in. Using the plastic backer works great for two reasons, it does not distort with moisture and tape sticks to it real good. It is also more expensive than cardboard.

I talked to the Daycab company recently and they Only do Peterbilt, Kenworth and Western Star. Anywhere between $1500-2500. No Mack... I am a Mack guy and don't really have interest in what they do so all is good. I am just trying to figure out how popular producing interiors for 20 year old plus truck will be. Machinery cost $$ and have work to pay for it is nice to know before hand.

Just starting up and the R model I have patterns for. Other interiors I would have to see a few photos and get an old interior to work from. First is the R model.

Anyone interested in New R Model interiors? I have Black and Tan material on order now. Possibly, Blue, Red and Gray. Starting prototype panels now to see how it will stitch out. These interiors will be as close to original as possible but with new materials. Vinyl is possible as used in the OEM stuff but mono-tone not the "like something was smeared all over it look". The new Faux leather look material is really nice, durable and a real upgrade. Both Eastern and Western styles will be produced. Western "bulldog" on door will be embroidered not heat sealed. Just putting it out here to see if there is an real interest to make and stock interior kits. I have checked everywhere and no one is making kits for R Models, I need one for my RW. Pricing for door panels, headliner, lower cab back, windshield pillars and above door panels will be about $1500. Western slightly higher due to diamond tuck stitching. Carpet and kick panels will be available a little later. Kits should be available about 2 months after I decide to pull the trigger and buy the piece of needed CNC equipment to stitch out the panels. This is a big investment to produce a top quality product and actually do small production runs. What you guys say or commit to here will determine if this will happen. All that said is there any interest in having made in the USA by American's classic Mack R Model interiors?

Found out and it has to do with the year truck was made. 55QS23 Curved handle was used up to 1979 55QS29309A Straight handle was used after 1979 Makes sense that the A designation is usually a revision for Mack Both worked with the padded interior door panels with no rubbing. Extra clearance with the 55QS29309A Found these online, New for $21 each with pins and Free shipping. By the way there are two different window crank handles.

What is the correct interior door handle for a 1989 RW Superliner? I got one of both, one on each door. These are the numbers on the back of the parts: 55QS23 Curved Handle 55QS23309A Straight Handle

Both doors are the same glass. A good glass shop is your best bet. If you have the old piece even cracked they can use it for a template. Had to have that done for an L cab. If you need tinted windshield glass I have a set OEM in the box, let me know.

No one said Mack stuff was cheap. Most of it is built well but rust and corrosion protection was not a high priority until they started to galvanize R model metal cabs, fiberglass for the MH. All else was left to the elements. You want to play with the big dogs, buck-up. PAI has stuff but not everything. You can stay on the porch and whine like a school girl otherwise, or search for parts. I am constantly looking. LOL There are a few here that have parts but this is not the place for everything you may need. Some really good advise here as well. You ain't messing with a Yugo here. Good used parts are fine to, just have to find them which is half the fun of keeping these trucks road worthy if your's is a hobby truck. Work truck, got to have the parts now to keep them working and pay the price.

I have had good luck with MH parts at Mack. Even got new windshields and gasket for reasonable price. Yes the prices are list but I have a relationship with a counter guy or two and get 15-20% off. Have to look but the lower box maybe MH specific. The tops are the same as most R models, with several finish options. Unless yours are really bad weld a 3/16" plat in the bottom and let it go, buy new tops, that is what everyone sees anyway.

This is how the frame splice turned out for my RW. It was done about 15 years ago and going strong. Outside of frame front weld just ahead or rear fuel tank mount see crossmember just behind. Total double frame splice is 4 feet. Rear of splice ends at rear edge of back crossmember and welded Mid splice with frame bolts. There are a total of 12 bolts per side, 4 in each crossmember front and rear, 4 bolts mid-span per rail. Front crossmember behind fuel tank. This is where the splice would be on a MH about 4 foot in length. Happy Splicing

Sure, cut the old rails behind the cab after the fish belly about 3-4 feet past. Cut the new rails to slip over the old, splice should be about 3-4 feet. New rail should go right against the widening fishbelly. Top of new frame will be about 5/16 higher than before. Have enough room to bolt a crossmember at each end of the splice. Weld the end of each frame together. Have photos of this if you need, was done to my 88 Superliner. Old rails 9.5 new rear 10.5 high and can hardly tell it was spliced. Plus the wheel base was extended to 245"

PM me. I can do a panel for you to review and start production.

Up until a few years ago a lot of the R model parts were available from Mack. When I started accumulating parts for my B it was at the 25 year old mark and parts were getting harder to get. Same for my 89 Superliner, got stuff from Mack until a few years ago, about 25 years after production for that model stopped. One big thing is in 2000 Volvo took over and most of the Pre-2000 Mack factory parts have been depleted by now & by design not coincidence. Most of the B model stuff is gone too. What is left is expensive or cheap Chinese knockoffs. A lot of the guys that were interested and made the parts are retired and the diminished demand makes for low profit so why do it to feed the family? Lancaster Upholstery did make interior kits for B & L cabs but can not get the tan material anymore. I was thinking of making R model interiors by actually stitching them instead of heat setting the vinyl. Why? because I have the machine to do it that way and have the knowledge to do it. Lastly I don't need to feed the family as I am retired and would do it as long as it was fun. Even doing it this way in the USA a full R Model kit in any color would be around $1800- $2000. After paying for material and labor to make it happen and me to get $200-250 per kit. They would not be original but what I could do with the equipment I have, it would be better than factory... but who would buy these kits? Could get it done in China for far less but not by me. The stuff can be made but by who and for how much? The people you talk about in this country are gone as well as the materials and manufacturing skills, sorry to say.

It's called Volmack. No need to keep older Macks around with their mentality. Volvo is not supporting something they had no involvement in. Better get the parts you can now, when there gone their gone for sure. R models are great trucks!