AZB755V8

I was going to ask about your tooling. Looks like you have a tool for everything to do fabrication. Nice, Great job!

In my RW there are just the 4 bolts holding the cradle onto the crossmember and no "clamp". Or is the clamp the one that holds the insulator? As said before photo's would help a lot to get it right. I will get a photo of what I am talking about today. Disregard, You have a one piece front mount/crossmember not a two piece as in the illustration further back in this thread. I have only seem them in light weight B & L models. Hope you figure it out.

The front crossmember and mount is very similar to an RW that I have made of steel. Look at it there are spacers between the crossmember and engine mount cradle, at least on mine there are. If all you are wanting is to move the cradle and place the rubber isolator rearward, all else lines up and in place, add 1 inch spacers and longer bolts it there are spacers make them longer. We are all looking at why it is wrong and not solving the problem, it could be the spacers were taken out when it was worked on before.

Well, I did know of two LT's as of 4 years ago that were mostly complete and parked for years in Prescott, AZ. They may still be there. The place was called MDI Rock, 928-776-2999. They sell landscaping material. The guy that owned them was old and had a young wife, say 40 years younger. Try calling them and see if the LT's are still there or where they went. Also Don Robinson had a mine in Jerome, AZ and gave tours of all his stuff. He passed several years ago but his kids have the property now. Maybe they have a few L cabs literally laying around in all the old mining equipment and they may part with. Look up Gold King Mine and Ghost Town. There is a video on the website of Don running his 1952 International KB-12 with a 300 iron lung Cummings, Great sounding!

It maybe a long shot but what if you got and sent Lancaster the cardboard or bendable chipboard is what is really needed? Sounds like that is the only issue is getting a new source for the chipboard without buying large quantities if it. They have the template for sure and have been doing interior kits for years. Maybe they still can get it but not in the small quantities that they sell kits in these days. Maybe worth a call back to them to know. Doing a quick Google search shows the issue, there are a few companies that still make the stuff in natural or gray color, none with the tan craft paper on one side like original Mack used. The material is sold in bulk or by the pallet not just a couple of sheets at a time. It would have to be painted to get the proper color now. WOW, times have changed maybe try colored picture framing mat board if you can still use your old panels as templates, glue fabric beading on where it was sewn originally. Hope it will flex enough to make the bends without cracking. Or maybe use your older panels and glue Naugahyde on. Looks like what the B cab kit from Watt's is like. Glad I got both B & L interiors when still available. Sold the older L interior back about 5 years ago it was 10 years old from Lancaster, still in good shape but not new.

I did the same thing 25 years ago with my first B to pull my Cat track loader. Who has a track loader these days, 4n1 bucket, pin on rear hoe, no ROPS? But the point is in the beginning it has cool. It was hot in the cab in the summer and cold in the winter, and all I said before. If you are the only one driving it, it could work, these days forget about an employee driving it, don't forget most B's don't have power steering, A/C, stereo, air ride seat or suspension or automatic trans. You maybe accused of employee abuse if you make one drive it. Mack's do have the COOL factor but at the end of the day after working all day the modern stuff will be more appealing and you maybe able to throw the keys to someone to drive it without a hassle. Like them a lot but how drives a 1960's Chevy or Ford pick-up these days, except to car shows?

I would have to say that since the trans was out the issue is the trans mounts. I do not have an R or RL but in the B's the trans mounts do have an offset. If they are not put on the proper side of the trans there is probably about a 2 inch change in moving the engine and trans. Check to see if the driveshaft slip connector is "fully in" and not in the proper mid position. This will confirm if the mounts are on the wrong side of the trans and have the engine/trans moved back or forward.

If you are worried about your wife and what she is going to say, stay away. My wife was never ridden in any of my Mack's or went to any type of truck show. She thinks it is cool and does talk positive about the trucks but that is it, because I like it. Same with guns, hotrods, bar and cigar buddies, got them to. She does like to ride the Harley from time to time. So don't expect to much from any woman relating to any big truck. I think Mack's are Great and most of the Guy's are older that can relate to them because they drove them for a living. The Guy's that I show them to 55 and under, not in the hobby, all say "heard of a two stick Mack but never seem one". Then I show them the 3 stick LTL. Do it for yourself and enjoy the hobby. It is still an old truck that is hot, hard to drive, hard ridding, rued, crud and getting harder to get parts for. Getting back to the wife, she is going to say "I told you so", so if that is what you are afraid of think twice. Do it for you and don't worry, they are cool old trucks.

As it goes all W-71's were day cabs. There were several that were converted to integral sleepers at or near the Mack factory. All W-71's do have a rib in the roof line if they are sleeper cabs, that is the splice line from the day cab conversion. Dr Bill's day cab W-71 had a small sleeper box added and is now at Keystone. Still one of the best looking cab overs made and happens to be a Mack. Same chassis as an LT.

Dale Francis Engineering in Painsville, Ohio. He has a lot of E9 parts from when they emptied Hagerstown of V8 stuff. I got my kit from him years ago and he has most anything you need for an E9. He just had a drawing for a military E9 for charity.

Got to get these engine warned up and run for 50 miles or so to get all that crud burnt out of the manifolds plus does the whole truck some good to be run. It is difficult to find a pump shop that can run the old V pumps or the guys that know who to set them. stock or otherwise. I am a polish guy, no Jet hot coating except the exhaust manifolds. The turbo tube is chromed. Had to go though several of every part to polished. Corrosion is a huge issue when trying to polish parts. Those foldover aluminum hose gathers are real Mack OEM the way they came from the factory. I did not do DOT new copper for the cost and for safety. I wanted to drive this truck so it is stainless supply hose and plastic DOT air lines covered with the original canvas/tar material. No one ever noticed the plastic in how well it was done. I do have that same SAE cloth covered hoses for oil & power streering lines also. It is pricey but what it take to be historically accurate. If you really look the injector lines are not on top of each other and now beside each other. I make a new complete set when the engine was rebuilt, they were just not available. The engine was silver and I painted it the old Thermodyne color to match the 864 Thermodyne. An 866, 375hp is actually the biggest Thermodyne Mack engine.

No relocation required, fit just like it would have from the factory. Yes they have a good sound, similar to an E9 but not as weasy. The turbo doesn't whine as muck like on the E9. The 866 is about 16-18psi with stock turbo and my E9 will peg the gage at 60psi with a BW S500, just a little difference. Yes, the B-61 will move with 3.70's. You will not get it in double-over before 65mph@1400rpm's. This old V8's do not like to be lugged down. I don't have the slobber that I have seen with other Mack V-8's, some were pretty bad. I did have the pump and injectors gone over every few years though.

New one's are on Ebay. Think I paid $20 with shipping, Bosch part not china junk. Ether old or new style Bosch will work.

No big dog house like the B-615. Really not that cramped with the longer hood. Have to take off the removable upper fender to service it but not bad. Same dimensions as the 864 it replaced. I did not have a spare E9 when the B-755 was restored but had I, it would be in there now. Without an intercooler like the real early EM 1005's, 360 hp. The Quad box would have had to go if that happened but the 866 is just fine to putt around with plus not many left to even see or hear running. It really moves with the double over Quad and 4.17 rears on big rubber.

They do sound good and idle smooth, had mine running a few times this week pulling in and out of the building. The building interior finally got painted after 6 years of thinking about it, boy what a difference from bare block walls. That engine should start with just a tap on the starter if all is right even when it gets cold. Just let it warm up before taking off with it. More than a few of them through rods when rev'd with a load cool. Had a few parts engines due to broke cranks and holes in blocks. Brother took them to scrap when prices were up years ago, so no parts really left. Rob, I had to use the Luberfinder set-up when the 866 was installed in my B-755. The engine would not fit with the newer spin on's hitting the steering column.

New, AlumiTank 800-652-6630

A little Borg Warner AirWerks S300 or S400 would give you way more than 30 psi. for less than $1000 new. Even if you go with the same size intake turbine as you got now. I've been using them for a while with real good results. I can peg the 60 psi Boost Gage easily. Only can't keep it there for to long. Coolant temp and Pyro heat up on a few long pulls out in AZ & California. Just have to ease out of it a little to cool down then lay into it again. No downshifting required. As mentioned before, there has to be a little matching with turbo, pump and injectors to make it all work.

Learn something new today. When did Mack first start piston cooling, what year? Did this happen with the spin on oil filters?

It will take all of these parts plus someone that knows how to size the parts and do the work. Once you past 300hp piston cooling is a must to have it live. The 237 is not piston cooler equipped. Better to get a 300+ or a 350 and save a lot of time and money in the end.

Those look like REAL HIGH buck options right there. Probably take a lot of rubbing and buffing to keep them in tip-top shape. But you get what you pay for.

Na, Just equipped with the optional augmented head lights.Have to look at the options list before ordering. Wounder where the road lamps are hidden?

1000Bulbs.com is a good source for shop lighting, good prices and Great service. I have relight several shops with LED's is different forms, tube, bulb, High Bay, Exterior. They use fare less energy and do not generate the heat old bulbs do and really bright. The stuff is made in china as most is and I have had issues with the exterior light fixtures in the AZ heat. After two years I called and they replaced 6 of 7 of them for free, no hassle at all. They do stand behind what they sell.

Can't help as there are 4 pieces to the dashboard or do you need them all? The R, DM, use the same dash with little modifications if any. If the RW dash is not available it maybe for these other model Macks. The RW dash was available about a year ago when I purchased the 2 main pieces and was going to make the other 2 to mount the gages and switches. The old original dash was metal and naugahyde covered the new one is plastic and textured. There are probably superseded part numbers that the parts guy did not look up for the parts you need.

It's amazing how quick all those drafts go away when you plug up the holes. Same thing when I built my barn that top section is the worst to get up there and sealed. If a good dinner is all it took to get a little work out them you got off cheap. When you going to start working on stuff and not on the building or is this side just for storage?