RowdyRebel

On that dump, I was more concerned about the edge of the "road" crumbling and the truck turning over, not the trailer. The trailer was actually pretty level. We were SUPPOSED to be dumping into this pit, which would contain the lime kiln dust so they could put it where they wanted it. Whoever built the road, though, put a bend in it right before the pit. Company driver who dumped ahead of me got his truck stuck when he ran his tractor off the edge....then after they pulled him back up onto the road, he gave up and dumped short of the pit and made a HUGE mess....probably lost 1/3 or more of his load. I'm just good enough to get it where it needs to go

I've got too many OTHER projects that are a little higher priority right now. I figger if the weather is ever bad enough that I think I might need 'em, there's plenty of places to stow 'em for the day. Probably get something built next summer, though.

That was my thought exactly... All in a day's work as far as I am concerned. My boss is college buddies with one of the show's producers and he was trying for some free ad time I think. We haul some placard loads, and dumping a 40 footer can be thrilling at times, but not enough WOW for TV. ....all in a day's work

I just bought some 11R24.5 chains....4 brand new still in the bag, 4 used.... Guy is a company driver now...used to own a truck and had it leased to the pumpkin patch...they were taking up space in his garage and he wanted to get rid of 'em. $100 was all he wanted for 'em. Now they're taking up space in MY garage

What is the steer axle rating? Is it a single or tandem drive? What is/are the drive axle(s) weight rating? How many axles will the trailer have? What sort of weight are the trailer axles rated for? What is the spacing between the axle groups? Basically, your GVWR will be determined by the axle weight ratings and the bridge law. If your axles are rated below the "legal" limits under the bridge law for the number of axles and their spacing, the axle ratings are what they will go by. If the axle ratings are higher than what the bridge law will allow, then it goes by the bridge law. If the truck has air brakes, you'll have to pass a driving test in it (or any other air-brake equipped vehicle) before you can drive it legally. If you have to take the driving test in it, you may as well get your CDL. One more thing, if you are pulling a trailer plated for more than 10K, you need a class A license. If you are using that trailer for commercial purposes, the license should be a CDL. Even if you are driving your pickup pulling a gooseneck in a hotshot type operation, you still are supposed to have a class A CDL.

My '92 Ranger is plated as a B-truck. The F250 has FF memorial plates on it. Only trailer I have right now is plated TA (under 3000), so behind the Ranger I'm still under 8000 (B-truck). ...and trucks USED to have to be inspected annually, but I've never heard of any need for a USDOT number unless it was being used in a commercial operation. Remember when all pickup truck plates expired in June?

That sounds like something I'd do.... ...which is why I keep it simple. Thanksgiving around here involves 2 of these: ...and one of these: They don't seem to be TOO much more difficult than a frozen pizza, so I ought to be able to manage a decent meal out of it....

If you are going to pull a trailer, my understanding of it is that the tractor needs to be registered for the combination's gross weight. If you only pull light loads, you can get by with a lighter registered GVWR...but if you sneak in a heavier load and are caught, you're in trouble. If you don't ever plan on pulling a trailer, registering it for the trucks weight should be fine.....just don't get caught with a trailer. Again, that's just my understanding of things, so that could be wrong...

So far its holding up....

...just make sure yer mudflaps ain't too short and yer license plate light works.

I've got the Hobart Handler 140. I was needing a welder, and actually WANTED the 220V model, but nobody had it in stock....so I got the one I have now. It's only 110V, and when welding heavier gauge metal, I pop the 15 amp circuit breakers in the garage....really need 20 amp breakers to do the thicker stuff. I COULD spend the money to buy shielding gas, reverse the polarity of the leads, and use solid wire....but everything I've had to weld up to this point I've been able to get by with the flux-core wire. I've also got oxy-acetylene here at the house, but I mostly just use that for cutting & brazing.

Those who don't do any more than they get paid for won't get paid for any more than they do. -Grandpa Jones

That would be my concern, too....blow the wrong tire, and you'll be lucky if airlines are the only thing it tears up.....with my luck, I'd be waiting for a tow after it shreds the tanks.

If they had a cab enclosing the seat on the loader, it would be WAY too tall to go down the road....and even worse for making your way through the woods. I never measured the loaders we had on the trucks when I was hauling logs, but they came awful close to the bridges....I'd guess they were somewhere around 13'. ...so in other words, the arctic carharts & thermal underwear are your friend

Damn. Sorry to hear that.

Mila Kunis Says She and Natalie Portman Sober for Love Scene + =

He better NOT be laying on the couch!!!

Everything on it is 6 volt. Why would I use 12?

I got an old 8N Ford that has been sitting since my grandpa died. It was his old tractor, but last time I had time to mess with it, it wouldn't start. I cleaned the carb, drained the tank & put fresh gas in it....still didn't start because it wasn't getting any spark. Replaced damn near every ignition component...battery, points, plugs, coil, wires, distributor cap & rotor, etc....still no spark. One of these days, I'll tear into it again to see where I'm losing the juice... It'll come in handy when I tear down the house next door and build my shop...it's got a front end loader and a rear blade.

I wouldn't want a truck that would go that fast in 17th gear at that low of an RPM...with my tall 24.5's on there and the Mack transmission, it would have a rear axle ratio somewhere around 1.74....and that gearing would be absolutely worthless on a Mack

Take a tape measure with you. Once you are hooked up, measure the height from the top of the trailer to the ground. If it is more than 13'6", you'll have to dodge the scales....easy enough to do if you don't mind running a few extra miles. The extra miles will be cheaper than the fine...just make sure you watch the signs for low bridges. BTW, when ya coming to C'dale? I'm only 30-40 miles South of there...depending on whereabouts in town you'll be going.

The carrier I'm leased to has low-pro 22.5's....my truck rides on tall 24.5's. That means I've got 2" extra ride height just in the tires & rims...and that's not figuring on suspension, frame rail height, or the 5th wheel. When I drop a trailer, they have to crank on 'em to lower it down to their level before they can hook to it. I can USUALLY back under it easy enough when they drop 'em, though...either by dumping my airbags to lower my 5th wheel, or because the 5th wheel will lift the dolly legs up off the ground (as long as the edge of the 5th wheel gets under the front of the trailer). Sounds like the 5th wheel was raised up to allow for clearance when the tongue is extended...otherwise, you'd risk getting hung up at every corner with a hump in the road.

You can buy 5th wheels that hold the trailer at varying heights above the frame....and that will affect the overall height just as much as anything else between the 5th wheel plate and the ground. Tire size, suspension, frame rail height, etc...for example, an 11R24.5 tire will add an inch over an 11R22.5 tire. Suppose you have a 38K spring ride on one and a 46K spring ride on another truck...the 46K will probably have more leafs or thicker leafs, which makes for a taller spring pack, which may increase the ride height. Keep in mind, you are only talking about a difference of 4".....not likely to have any noticeable affect on a 48' trailer. If my math is correct, a 4" elevation change over 48' is a 0.7% slope...and in all likelihood, it'll be less because the trailer will probably be perfectly level somewhere between the two extremes. If that minor difference is going to bother you....