RowdyRebel

Don't know. All I know for sure at this point is that it's an electric choke and the stumble went from a mild hiccup to a major issue after it sat for 3 or 4 weeks, and that it's less of an issue once it's up to temp. Tried running a tank with the cheaper Berryman B12 fuel system cleaner...probably should've used the more expensive Seafoam...but a few tanks of fresh gas later, it's still doing it.

Got the new line on there, bled it, and it stops nice & straight with no pulling to either side...just like it's supposed to. Now I just have to work on the stumble. If the engine is cold and you put it in gear, it stalls. If you mash the throttle (whether it's warmed up or not) it really struggles between 1500 and 2000 RPM (which sucks, because 1600 is about where the torque converter starts turning the wheels if you're pointed up hill). Not sure if it's a carburetor/fuel ratio issue or if I need to replace the ignition wires or tinker with the timing some more. Probably wouldn't hurt to pick up a new set of wires...these are a little on the ragged side. Picked up a book to read up on all of the little nuances and adjustments on the Quadrajet, and I really need to get a wide band O2 sensor and an air/fuel ratio gauge to go with it...then I can see exactly where it needs to be tweaked and which direction to tweak it. If the guy who's numbers were on my door most of the year ever pays me what he owes me (or even part of it), I'll probably go ahead and get that. Until then, I'll just have to deal with what I've got...

Ok, so it wasn't the caliper that was bad... Got the driver's side done & let gravity bleed it for a few minutes until bubbles stopped coming out, then put a little suction to it to make sure it was good. Went to the passenger side and tried the same thing...nothing. Vacuum wouldn't even suck it out. Disconnected the line and no drip. Step on the brake pedal with the line disconnected and it's a hard pedal. WTF? If I pushed REAL hard on the pedal, I could make it go down, and fluid would come out the disconnected line...but when I'd let up, the pedal was hard again. Cracked the rubber flex line loose and it started leaking, so I pulled the flex line off and ordered a new one. I guess the flex line was bad. Enough brake pressure would squeeze fluid down to the caliper, but it would close off again and not allow the pressure to be released. That's why it was slow to apply, and slow to release. I'll pick up the line after work today and should have 'er back together pretty quick when I get home. Anyway, new calipers, rotors, and pads, cleaned & repacked the wheel bearings, new grease seal, and manual locking hubs. Kind of glad I had made the decision to change the hubs before I dug into it, because I already had them. Auto-locks come out in a million pieces, with springs and clips and a whole bunch of other stuff to try to stuff in there just right...and when something goes flying, it's a lot easier to say "F-it...don't need it anyway" than it is to spend 3 hours looking for the damn thing. New line goes on tonight and she'll be road-worthy again.

Damn rain...couldn't get a jump on today's project because it was pouring...now can't get to work 'til the boy decides it's nap time. Then I'll have about 3-4 hours to knock it out before he wakes up again. If I don't get it finished, I'll have tomorrow morning before the wife leaves for work and nap time tomorrow...but I've also got to finish the cover for the trailer and the draw bar for the little tractor tricycle the boy's going to find under the tree in 10 days... So much to do, so little time...

And the fun continues...or should I say the hits keep coming? So yesterday I drove the Suburban to work (wife needed the F250 to haul some stuff to town). Anyway, I get off work early enough I figured I could tinker a bit before heading home. Changing the weights in the distributor, one of the little black 5/32" E-clips went flying (never to be seen again). Boss man lets me borrow his car to run into town to get another one...Napa, Car Quest, Auto Zone, Orscheln, O'Reilly, Buchheit...best I could come up with was a 4mm (0.0312mm too big...which may as well have been 6" too big). So, I'm debating running it home with just 1 E-clip, but when I walked into the office I saw a tiny little paperclip that looked to be about the right thickness...so I snagged it. Cut the middle-sized bend out of it (which was about the size I needed) and wrapped it all of the way around in the E-clip's groove, leaving the 2 ends on opposite sides of the post. That seems to be doing the trick...3 HOURS wasted on a 20 second solution. Good news, though, while searching for the E-clip, I discovered the reason it pulls to the left when you first hit the brakes, and then pulls to the right when you let off...damn right side caliper is sticking. Slow to apply (pulls to the left) and slow to release (pulls to the right). SO slow to release, in fact, that the pads are gone and the backing plate is chewing up the rotor. Saw metal shavings on the inside of the rim while looking for the E-clip. So, got new calipers, rotors, and pads to put on. Still need to pick up the wheel seals and spindle nut socket for the Dana 44. Now would also be a damn good time to put some manual lock hubs on it, since the auto locks aren't locking...since it'll all be apart anyway. Also got (another) set of new spark plugs. Had to do some research...needed the 1990 gap (0.035) with the 1996-2000 reach, 1 heat range colder. NGK TR6 fit the bill. New motor came with TR55's, but the 0.060 gap was burning up ignition modules. Regapped them to 0.035 and problem solved. New plugs I just installed end of last month are for the 1990 heads (not the '96-'00 Vortec I have now) and the tip doesn't thread in near as far. SIGNIFICANT loss of power as a result! Dropping the 1 heat range ought to help eliminate what little pinging I'm still getting. With the lighter weights, I was able to up the initial timing about 3-4 degrees and hear less pinging pulling a hill. Hopefully the new plugs eliminate it altogether (as well as give me my power back!) Fun.

I was making a hard cover for the motorcycle trailer I build about 12 years ago. Already modified it to haul the dogs this past summer, but need to haul Christmas presents here in a few weeks. Anyway, I had the saw horses out, kneeling down and welding away when I started to not feel so cold anymore. That was accompanied by the rather pleasant smell of burning cotton. I stopped welding, flipped up the mask, looked down, and saw my jacket was pretty much fully engulfed. Oops. Smothered it with the gloves pretty quickly. No burns...had 2 layers of thermals, a sweatshirt, and coveralls on under the Carhart vest. Like I said, it was just a rather pleasnt feeling of not being cold anymore, which got my attention because it was cold as **** outside.

Just a friendly reminder that old, worn, frayed Carharts are NOT very fire-resistant.

This wasn't my first choice, but it's far from my last...driving feed trucks. Couple semis, couple straight trucks, a few dually flatbed pickups, and whatever else needs to be driven. Get into some interesting places, too...anywhere there are cows, chickens, pigs, horses, goats, or any other critters being fed, I just might get to go. I did get some bad news...the Mack RD (my favorite truck they have) is slated for replacement in January. Sucks, because that's the 1 truck I have no problems taking anywhere...46K camelbacks and a 20K steer, with a steerable pusher. E7-350 is a little under-powered (compared to my E7-460P) and the 8LL is definitely short a few gears from my 2180B. Rear gears have this thing tached out at 60-65 mph, so when I hit lo-lo, it just creeps along. They're going to remove the feed bed before they get rid of it...half tempted to see what they'd want for it. Move the pusher axle up in front of the drives and mount a 16' dump bed on there and go to work hauling for a road crew. Probably pick it up cheap, because the shifter leaks air (as discussed in the OP), the roof leaks (likely the roof vent or the cab light gaskets), and the hood squeeks (bushings gone that support the hood when closed). Other than that, though, it's a good running truck.

I parked my truck for a while. Friend who's numbers I was running under wasn't paying me, then decided not to renew insurance I was paying for, leaving me in a bit of a bind. Meanwhile, the bolt holes in the bell housing of my truck are wallered out and the input shaft seal has started leaking, so it won't pass inspection to lease on anywhere. Need to pull the trans, repair the threads in the bellhousing, replace the seal, fix whatever else is damaged, and put it all back together again. Then, get my own damn numbers to run under. Until then, I'm punching a time clock while my truck sits in the driveway waiting for me to get some money together to get it back on the road.

Is that difficult to change? Never pulled a shift knob apart before, and it isn't my truck...so I'd hate to screw it up.

Other day I was driving it, come up to a 4-way stop, and it wouldn't go into low range without pushing down hard and holding the range selector. After a while, it got to the point where it would shift to low range without physically holding the selector switch down, but air is leaking unless you're pushing down hard on the switch. Flip it to high range, and the air leak stops. Talking to another driver, it had done that before and quit, but he didn't know how or why...just curious what would cause it (because it's rather annoying and I'd like to fix it). They think I'm nuts, but it's my favorite truck of theirs to drive (other trucks are a pair of freightshaker T/T's and a KW straight truck...no reason the Mack WOULDN'T be my favorite!)

...and a truck with fender-mounted blinkers is less likely to drive down the road unknowingly signalling a lane change or turn, because you can SEE the blinky light on your fender clear as day. Then again, does it really matter if people can see a car's blinker if the person driving it never uses it? Sometimes I wonder if they quit teaching that in driver's ed...nobody uses theirs, and everybody ignores yours when you use it.

Actually, check any CDL manual and you'll see that is the CORRECT way to make a right-hand turn. Swinging wide BEFORE the turn opens the door for someone to squeeze between your trailer and the curb/ditch and get crunched as your trailer off-tracks. Instead, you're supposed to keep your lane into the turn, and swing wide with the tractor upon exit in order to keep that trailer hugging the inside edge of the road. If you must cross a center line while making your turn, you're supposed to do so on the road you are turning onto. Of course, it's best to wait until there ISN'T oncoming traffic to do so...

Miller tires on a Hobart welder? Isn't that like putting a Chevy motor in a Ford?🤡

I chuckle every time I see some chick post "#MeToo", and can't help but wonder why they'd be outraged while making such a request, and why those it is directed at find themselves in such hot water. I may not be ancient yet, but I AM old enough to know the # as a pound sign...(PoundMeToo).

Still strange walking into Lowe's and seeing Craftsman tool boxes being sold. Their Kobalt branded boxes are all on clearance...apparently Craftsman wanted exclusivity. If the wanted to sell Craftsman, they couldn't also sell their own Kobalt boxes. At least that's what the sales associate told me when I asked where the Kobalt boxes were. Need a large "shop" tool box and was shopping around comparing options and prices.

Actually, HER "elected officials" chose to hold onto the confidential letter she sent and not disclose any of the allegations contained in it to the committee in a timely manner. There was no mention of the allegations during the private meetings with Kavanaugh (which would have been the appropriate venue to bring them up, seeing as how the accuser wished to keep her name out of the news). The letter was then leaked by staff at the last minute...AFTER the end of the hearings...in a last ditch effort to delay the vote. Her lawyers, democrat operatives recommended by her senator, then proceeded to ignore their ethical obligation to their client by not making it clear that the committee was willing to go to her privately in her home to interview her. HER LAWYERS (democrat operatives) WANTED the public hearing. As for the whole Merrick Garland thing, you can thank Joe Biden for that precedent. In 1992, he was adamant that GHWB should not appoint a justice to the SCOTUS, should a vacancy occur, until after the election. It, too, was a presidential election year.

In my '86 Ranger, nearly the entire driver's side floor was gone. I'd hang my foot down through the hole and swing it back and forth going down the road...got more than a few "looks", including one from a cop. I was making a left, grabbed a gear and dropped my foot down. He stuck his head out his window watching as I went by. I have a whole new (used) cab to put on there in a few years when the boy is old enough to help me start working on it...

Since when was the Explorer NOT a RWD (or 4x4) with the engine facing the proper way?

I tried that, too...and it not only was dern near impossible to start, but the run-on would happen more often than not. Seemed like as soon as the engine would start turning over, it was creating enough vacuum to trigger the advance, but the engine wasn't turning fast enough yet and it'd stop the piston on the compression stroke. Pulling it from a ported source, it starts and runs a lot better. I'll probably run it a little tomorrow to try the part-throttle adjustment. Probably also back the vacuum off 1/2 turn and the initial off another degree. Already have the heaviest springs in the distributor...really only pings above 2000 RPM, which should be right in the meat of the torque and power curves. Have an appointment on Friday (wife will probably have to take it in...if that happens, it'll be the first time she drives it with the new intake) to have some windows tinted...need the barn doors on the back, along with the driver's side rear passenger's door main glass tinted as close to matching the other 3 windows as they can get...along with the top 6" of the windshield. Anyway, it's coming along. Would happen quicker if I didn't have to work...but gotta pay for all this somehow. Necessary evil, I guess.

If I screw 1 idle mix screw all of the way in, it dies before I get there. Right now, I'm at 6-1/2 turns out pulling 19" of vacuum. It was still inching upwards, but don't know how much more I want or can get considering they say most of these Quadrajets are 3-5 for the ballpark. Don't want to ditch vacuum advance altogether, because it really could barely get itself moving with it disconnected and plugged. Got to remember, this is a 7800# tank that will occasionally pull a couple 1000# horses in a 2500# trailer...has to get 10-12K# moving, not just a little 2000# car. The cam is fairly mild...idle to 5000 range. It's the mildest cam in Comp Cams "xtreme 4x4" line. I haven't yet touched the idle speed or idle stop...idles around 1000 free, and drops to 650-700 when I drop it into gear. Don't think I want much lower or it might start stalling out when engaged with the transmission. With the throttle springs I've got on there, there certainly isn't any issue with closing the throttle, as long as there is no obstruction.

First 2 tanks have been within .05 mpg of hitting 11...and that's with my heavy foot dialing in the timing (trying to eliminate the pinging, as well as loving the acceleration). Found the adjustment for the partial throttle...supposedly it'll take away the off-idle stumble. Backed the screw out a half turn, but instead of going home empty and then taking it to town on a test drive to pick up the kid, I had to go to town to grab a load for tomorrow and picked the kid up while I was there. Timing is ALMOST there...if I go WOT from a stop, it'll rattle a little, and pulling a long hill it's just thinking about it. I'm thinking another half turn off the vacuum advance and maybe dialing back the initial timing another degree should about do it. This thing still won't roast the tires on dry pavement, but it'll light 'em up on command if there's any gravel or debris on the pavement. Not bad for a 7800# tank. Cruises real nice...80 mph @ 2500 RPM at maybe 1/8-1/4 throttle...not much needed at all, and PLENTY of power in reserve. Used to be if there was any head wind, I couldn't break through the draft coming off a truck's nose to complete a pass...now, it doesn't even slow down. In other words, it drives like a vehicle with a 350 OUGHT to drive...'bout damn time is all I can say! As soon as I get this little off-idle hiccup to go away, it'll be good to go. Eventually, I'll get a wide band O2 sensor air/fuel ratio gauge to get the jetting and all that dialed in...but for now, I'm happy just being able to drive the thing without holding up traffic...and 3+ mpg better doesn't hurt, either.

1st fill-up after topping off the tank following the carburetor install and I'm liking the initial numbers...we picked up 3 mpg, so we're back over 10 and almost into the 11's. Best part is, I haven't even started fine-tuning the carburetor yet. There's a slight stumble off idle that needs adjusting, and also I think it's idling a hair rich. Finally got the idle adjusting tool to turn those screws, so I just have to hook up the vacuum gauge and get to tinkering with it. I backed off the vacuum advance 1 turn when I filled up, because there was some slight pinging when it would shift gears and the RPM's would drop...and filling up with 87 and diluting the octane boost I had added previously wouldn't make the situation any better on its own. That made the stumble a little worse, though, so I think I'll throw the heavier distributor springs in there and add that turn back to the vacuum advance...might even go a turn and a half to compensate for the decrease in mechanical advance. This is the exact reason why I made the swap...i can work with mechanical stuff I can tinker with and adjust. That TBI was too primitive to have any self-tuners available...had to pull the chip and send it off to be reflashed with another guess, and then hope it works when you get it back 2-3 weeks later. Who has time for that crap? Especially when the vehicle is a yard ornament until you get the chip back. Anyway, still shooting for 12-14 mpg's out of this thing...don't think that's being TOO unreasonable.

Ok...so I got a spring kit for the distributor and put the middle-weight springs in. Left the old weights and bushings, though, because it IS a brand new distributor. New springs felt about the same as the ones I pulled out...perhaps just a hair heavier if anything, which is what I wanted. Also pulled the vacuum advance canister off while I had it opened up to figure out WHY it wasn't adjusting. Turns out, they included THE WRONG SIZE allen key with the distributor!!! Damn thing needed a 2.5mm, NOT the 3/32" they sent in the box. Once I figured that out, I used my Harbor Freight pneumatic brake bleeder (which works GREAT, by the way, if you've got brake work to do) as a vacuum pump (it'll pull 20+" on the gauge) and set the vacuum advance about half way between everything (where it WAS) and nothing (which really makes it not want to get the truck moving...discovered that when I unplugged the vacuum advance to test if it would still ping). Mission accomplished! No more pinging...will have to wait until the octane boost has been diluted out after a tank or two before I do any more tuning on the ignition...hate to put in the time & effort to get it perfect only to fill up with 87 octane and have it start pinging again. Now that I know what size wrench it needs, I'll be able to tweak it as we go. What's frustrating me NOW, though, is this stupid driver's side window. It shattered on me last winter out by the horses...was hooking up to the horse trailer and talking to the farm hand, so the window was down. When I closed it, it exploded inside the door. Neighbor was getting ready to scrap an old square body pickup, so he gave me the door glass...which sort of worked. It filled the hole and kept the rain out, but every time I'd try to put it down it would fall out of the track...and as long as the interior door panel wasn't on there yet, I could reach in, reset the glass in the track, and help it up. So, ordered all of the window track pieces from LMC to try to fix that problem, and ATTEMPTED to order new window glass from the local glass shop (figured they could fix it when they put the new window in)...but their supplier didn't have any. So, I figured I'd tear into it and replace the track this morning...except everything seems to be working JUST FINE now. We've had that damn switch taped over for 6 months so that we wouldn't accidently lower the window and have it jump out of the track, and here it is working perfectly. Don't know how or why it suddenly decided to work right, either...so I'm reluctant to tear out the old track and replace it with the new when there doesn't seem to be anything wrong. Like they say, "if it ain't broke..." I did spray some lubricating oil into the metal guide on the bottom edge of the glass...probably should have wire-wheeled it before I put it in. Regulator seems to struggle a little putting it up and down, but it's getting better. Window doesn't QUITE go all of the way up (don't think it's the EXACT glass...but was close enough for what I needed back then, and the price was right)...about 99.99% of the way, with just a SLIGHT gap at the back edge. Don't know that replacing the window track would do much to solve that, though. Oh well...guess I'll put the door panel back in and we'll keep the new window track pieces in the truck so IF it jumps out again, I can fix it then.

So I've got a little pinging at partial throttle, and that's with the timing dialed back as far as I can and still have it run. A couple bottles of octane boost helped, but didn't solve the problem...a band-aid, so to speak, while I get 'er dialed in. I'm thinking heavier springs in the distributor to slow that advance curve down a tad, and perhaps dial back the vacuum advance as well by a couple degrees to allow me to turn the initial timing back up to where it ought to be. The good news is that with the octane boost in the tank, the run-on situation has been temporarily halted. Got the special tool on its way to adjust the idle mix and start tweaking on it. Almost 100 miles on this tank and the needle is still on "F" ...a good sign. Also put some really damn stiff throttle return springs (double spring set-up) on there to discourage and counteract my heavy foot. And one more thing...a damn coolant leak at the thermostat. I had one of those aluminum gaskets with the rubber inserts that are SUPPOSED to be reuseable...but they ain't. So, rather than paying another $18 for one of those hunks of junk, I paid $2 for the paper gasket. Got to drain the coolant...again...