Lmackattack

If you want mack rears and you currently have eaton then a complete axle swap is going to be cheaper in the long run. only thing to check at that point is if the axle tubes are the same size to accept any parts that clamp down on them to hold it to the suspension. My opinion is to stay with eaton. far easier to get parts for these days. 20 years ago id dissagree with my current statement.

🤡Get your popcorn ready and lets all have a laugh.🤡 NEWS FLASH.... it will be a re badged Volvo but this time "Mack" (if you can still call them a truck company) will even share the same cab with volvo. the stupidity of truck Mfg these days is impressive.

Sold my B75 yesterday to a nice young Gentleman from Easter KY. It was a cool old truck sitting up higher on a 78' R model Frame. but it had frame issues and I just didnt have the time to giver her what she needed. The kid already has a good western star frame with air ride rears and I think he might swap the B75 body and engine over into his good frame. This Truck has a 285 Tipturbine with a 5 speed and 3.87 rears. R model Steering and steering column that made it a breeze to turn. If had not been running since late october but we got it fired up pushing it with a cat excavator and he drove it up on the trailer. first time I had started it in winter temps and it was not too dificult all considering I was pushing with an excavator and had no speed with it. It was refreshing to see a young man with intrest in the old Iron. even brought his grand dad with him for the 20hr round trip. sad to see it go but hope this young man can do more with it than I can. Great guy if you know him heres some photos I took yesterday

OK thank you. I have a friend who was asking me if I had one and Wanted to confirm. Thank you

can anyone tell me what this bellhousing bolts up to. internet say its a E6 but want to confirm Date stamp is 1972 part number 634gc5194 thank you

If I remember right on the factory installed dual breather RW I Drove it had a reinforcment bracket on the passenger side similar to how the drivers side is.

I know they suffered from the ho low range syncronizer. they often grinded between range changes. Not macks best transmission but when they were working right they were not all that bad for a road truck. as far as value. they are not a popular option by people looking to swap in a diffrent transmission.

I bought the truck with The tip turbine already installed. But still kinda cool to see how they fabbed it up

Larry My Blue B model has a driver side Air filter added to supply outside air to the tip turbine. Its also a B75 long hood so 4 more Inches to work with under the hood and near the cowl. just an idea

Got the brakes to work today. Pulled the valve off and found dirt dobbers got in there. It was packed in the valve and the lines as suspected. I got it cleaned up and sprayed it down with tool oil. The lines came off easy and it looks like the valve was brand new. No oil or grime in any of the ports. While under it I pulled the drain valve on the tanks off and was pleasantly surprised to see a few cap fulls of clean oil drip out. Hopefully that helped protect them from rusting. I put some tool oil in the red line and hooked it back up. Pushed in the trailer brake valve and they released. I also put some new led tail lights on the rear so people can see me better. The wires in there.....brand new! No butt splice repairs anywhere! I really think the trailer was completely rebuilt and then used just a few times before it was parked.

didnt some of the early v8s use the quad box transmissions? I think the B81s had that set up

This trailer has all new plastic line from nose to the valves at the rear. then new rubber from the valves to the chambers. it has all been replaced. the kink pin plate has 2 holes to reach up into to loosen the pipe that the glad hands thread onto. I will have to repair them as I think their forklift hit them moving it around the yard Even the wireing is all brand new. I replaced the old style bulb tail lights with LEDs today.. no butt connectors or any repairs found. all incased in new plastic conduit.

If its the same engine I just posted about in a 2005 granite im currently in. I feel your pain. Probably the slowest truck I have ever driven besides my 65' Mack B model.

Friend sent me a Marketplace link to it last week. We went and looked at it last tuesday and I made a deal for $2300. Title says its mfg by TN&C. I have never herd of them but looks well built. Its basicly rust free and a solid deck. Bulkhead is removable. looks like it was sandblasted and painted recently. 4 new parking/service cans, new shoes, hoses and valves. but the brakes wont release. I think its just dirt dobbers? Will need to troubleshoot that but im sure its easy. It will need some new tires but thats about it. Pulled it home today.

After driving all sorts of old trucks. I can safely say that a truck with air ride tends to hold up much better than a truck on spring or beams. my thought is that if you have air ride with diff and power divider locks you will be able to do the same job 99% of the time and the truck/driver will not be abused as much. I use to swear by Camelback and auto power dividers until I drove a few trucks on air with manual power divider and diff locks. the air ride trucks did much better with the locking rears. it was a eye opener for sure.

🇺🇸😅🇺🇲😅🇺🇲😅🇺🇲😅🇺🇲😅🇺🇲😅🇺🇲 https://www.instagram.com/reel/DEdE2D8vMov/?igsh=M3N4YTEycW9rdHNx

Twin Y ........ also known as, Why did I buy this and Why didnt anyone tell me not to buy it. hope you find the parts I hear they are not a popular item that is in stock

nice build. I love building this kit. Probably built 8 of these over the years. I still have most, others were gifts to people I worked for. 8 years ago I bought 6 of these kits and they are still all new in box in my bacement. I bought them in case they dont release them for a while like it use to be years ago. seams they are much easier to find these day tho. As far as the real truck I drove a few Mack 6 wheelers with a plow. what a beast they were. dont hit any curbs because you will remove them. The plow trucks today are more forgiving.

first check if one of the 3 bolts is loose. there is a gasket and or sealent used to seal it to the Engine. Dont forget to make sure the metal tube that directs oil to the compressor is there. But the bigger question is why is the crank case under that much pressure? check your breather tube to make sure its venting.

https://acrobat.adobe.com/id/urn:aaid:sc:VA6C2:8514a9b0-d0b5-4f41-b644-5b8fb227c70e If i'm understanding you correctly. You ran a seven wire cable from the firewall junction block to the rear end of the truck frame. My R model. only needs 4 wires to the rear of the truck

I might be mistaken but I thought the frames from a RW700 were the same as a CL700? I have not owned either so someone other than me please confirm

Thank you for looking this up.

I listed the vin tag in the first post. I have not looked for a hp tag on the engine. All I know is these were originally to be sold to ABC building supply but the deal fell thru and they got a good deal on a batch of these after the frames were shortened for use as a tractor.. I'd suspect it was built as a cheap low hp fleet spec truck design to Hau maxl 50k gross.

I recall that thread now but I was not driving this truck back then so I was not following it closely I got to the end reading it. seams like a wealth of info to improve these engine......and have to ask, what did Mack Technician do to be banned? Did he ever return here under a new name? Thank you