Lmackattack

I use to buy my 1/14 scale tamiya cabs from shapeways. Not sure if you can still buy from them?

Dan sent me a signed copy a few months back. It really was a great read about the movie and how it barely made it to the theaters.

I remember seeing a truck with wheelchare access and then years later, seeing a article about it. I thought it was bisom but could be wrong

Yes very early 80s had 2 valve 300 hp The 4v came out around 1983-84 if I recall

I might be. Dan Bruno asked me that same question.

I'm trying to recall my trip to walcott IA back in 2006? Did bisom truck lines have a cruiseliner or superliner set up so a disabled driver could enter and exit the cab. I know mike Harbison would know Thank you

I used a service truck crane. To remove and replace the heads as 1 assembly. Made life very easy Yes, I wire brushed all stud holes in the head. Pressure washed them and blow dry. All the stud holes in block were wire brushed and blown out after I cleaned the deck surface. All studs were wire brushed. Lowered heads on with 4 studs used as guides until the dowl pins located them. Then I put all studs in hand tight and backed off 1/2 turn. All studs were same hight. Bolted down so far so 👍

I decided to make a walk around video of the truck. Just a little bit of what i've done to it over the years. I'm gonna start making more videos of other truck related stuff I have. Subscribe to the new channel, if you'd like to see more. https://youtu.be/WLYYPPEpJNA?si=Sa-nvGi5nnHn4A1v

Yep I just pulled my 2v heads off about a month ago. Replaced the head gaskets and cleaned up the mating surfaces. Total cost was less than $100 in parts. Great help from people here.

https://youtu.be/WLYYPPEpJNA?si=aNrdX5jOmOGj8e_U

A CF686 denotes a 285 maxidyne. my truck is a RS786 with the same engine. A 300+ would be a CF612 Also a 285 hp usually had a 5 or 6 speed transmission as it was a high torque rise. where the 300+ needed minimum of 8 gears due to its shorter powerband

Not yet. Been busy. I will report back soon

My memory is fuzzy but I know the axle tubes from b models to R models are definitely different. For example a r model differential will not drop in a b model era housing. The spiders may swap over. Another thing to consider if your truck currently has camelback is just swaping in R model axles. It might be the same labor but you could get some 4:17 ratio and have a great highway speed now. Just a thought

Oh man.... and can you repair it in the truck or does the pump need to be pulled out?

Yes sir.

On my B model i tried puting a 24/24 chamber on but its very tight to the rim. I'd assume you would have the same issue. To get 30/30 chambers you Probably need spiders and S cams off a R model to get the cans away from the rims. Possibly re clock them so the cans don't hit the frame rail. That being said I have never tried to swap b and R spyders so not sure it will inter change?

Runs smoother than before. At idle it's much quieter. Knock on wood

My injection pump has a leak at one of the barrels where it threads in. I recall someone saying you can remove the line, unthread the barrel and a oring is in there? Is it that simple? This is on my 1977 285 maxidyne

Should the pushrods be spinning back and forth. Just curious

Heres a video I took on the test run. https://youtu.be/sSRhREtpZlA?si=SnhVHakZtzeeufg1

Got mine on ebay 2 months ago. About $70 for a set pertaining to my year truck

Ok. Got them re adjusted. I checked each set of rockers before adjusting them. I found Holes 1, 5 and 3 were spot on as expected. Holes 6,2 and 4 were loose. After re setting them all to .016 and .024 I fired it off and no ticking sounds like the other day. I have The incorrect exhaust clamp on the downpipe, so you might hear some exhaust leak in the video.But the ticking is definitely gone from the other day. Test drove. Builds 24psi boost, Pyro was 950 with foot on brake holding rpm at 1600 in direct for about 20 seconds. Engine is definitely quieter and smoother all around. Even at idle it's smoother. Thanks again for everybody's help. https://youtu.be/1OGatrOBdl8?si=9Nyouam3FCGJUN8V

I'll get a new vid next week 😎

this was last week after I put the heads back on https://youtu.be/ZXFH3xLgHtM?si=zPMPUuQFagmrnnvT

I am as well. However as I was adjusting them I never moved one adjuster more than about a 1/4 turn from their original position. I also spun it over with my ratchet 3 or 4 times before I started it just to make sure It was not interfering with the pistons