Lmackattack

I have spread a few loads but I always unlock the gate before lifting. To many times Have I seen a stuck gates and even a few "rocket mans" from a box that was raised with the gate closed.

always liked the looks of them. Kinda like the DM version of Brocakway. Were these the same models used in the Die hard movies?

I see the problem. Yea you need to have a PTO that runs off the Engine revs so that when your in Gear and moving forward the more throttle you give the faster it lifts the box. right now your running the PTO off the transmission gear speed. so when you grab first gear the box is rasing too slow even at full throttel. With the PTO running off the enge RPM You would still use 1st (or 2nd gear) but a properly specd PTO will lift the box faster. PTO gearing will depend on the trans and what kind of pump speed that is needed. TO fast of a pump can blow lines and snap a PTO shaft,gear etc....

Picked up 4 oil temp gauges and have a few questions 1st I need to find sending units for them. My local dealer said the sending units are more than the gauges? (about $55 each) dont need $200 in sending units! anyways does anyone know who makes the mack gauges so I can call them up or does anyone know the ohm range for them? this is for engine,trans,FR tandem, RR tandem oil temps. single wire sendng unit 2nd where are the common locations to instill each sending unit? Trent

never seen that kind of hitch but if you can remove the towed trucks without the need of a machine that would be faster and you could drop it anywhere. that Oshkosh looks like the fleet of Cement trucks that Meyer ran in the 90s. I think they still have a few left. Strong runners and put their DMM macks on a level playing field. I always thought they would be a PITA to see out of with the big hood and sitting that high up? I can rember seeing them all day long near my house.

hard to say.... If im selling something I like to take the first person with cash as he is standing there willing to give me what I want. Some times buyers get cold feet and change their mind in a matter of 5 mins. On the other hand If I said come look at it tomorrow I would not set up any other meetings for other lookers untill after you came to look and made an offer. Trent

Not sure if I follow the question either? sorry... I understand what you want to do is spread a load but dont follow why its not working to your liking? I will take a guess and say that the PTO speed is to slow and the box does not raise as fast as you need it to spread the load?

HA HA... thats a great story... Bet you and the parts guy wont ever forget that one!

Randy the more ideas the better. as you know sometimes its a trio of attemps with diffrent ideas. I should note I cant take credit for the slide hammer trick as a old school Mack tech told me about it.

Im sure its just the TV hype. Cant have a show about work and every thing goes smooth without drama.... I work in auto racing and if you watched some of the event previews on TV you would swear that its all louse women walking around half naked, every body just won the lotto, money is no object, and you stay out all night with the crews. NOT!!!!! Not many girls come to races(unless with their boyfriend), I dont own a money tree, we try not to crash because cars are expenicive and Im in the hotel most night by 8PM...after a quick stop at taco bell..... You get my point LOL!!!

when I did the injectors in my 2 Valve I had 2 stuck injectors. If I recall I had to make a slide hammer tool to thread onto the injector. Also you may need to heat the area near the injector so it expands. When I did it I would get the truck up to temp and then started slide hammering. I even went as far as backing the hold down nuts off a little and then ran the truck at hi idel to let the Internal presser help push them free.I Like PB blaster for rusty or stuck boltes. The issue is that it needs to get down in the hole to lousen it. some times the holes are rusted to the point that you cant get the fluid down in there. They can be a PITA so go slow and work them out fyi.... When you put the new ones in use antiseize!!!

as you instructor noted you should listen to the engine. Under stand that when the truck is in motion the trans and rear ends are always spinning in sync with each other. So apon a shift change the revs will need to match each other when you shift to a diffrent gear. If you are up shifting the engine will need to drop a few hundreed RPM to catch the trans in the next higher gear. Down shifting your doing the same thing but have to rase engine RPMs. When learning its best to have a slight load on the truck/trailer so that it maintains its speed thru the gear change. This way you dont louse road speed and further complacate the shifting. also learn on flat roadway as hills will allow the truck to change speeds also. I learned to shift with no clutch and find using the clutch for shifting is harder. Upshifting RPMs should be no more than 1500RPM so that when you find the next lower gear, your RPMS wont exceed Max engine RPM. Lower the RPM the smoother the shift. try down shiftin at 1200RPM and see how that goes. the process......lift up on the throttel to put slack in the trans, lightly pull on the stick and it will come out of gear as soon as you have slack place stick to next lower gear, as you are moving the stick to the next lower gear you will need to raise about 300RPM to catch the lower gear. For starts, slowly raise the RPM to get a feel of the grind just before it falls into the lower gear. you may need to "float" the RPM untill you find the correct RPM for the gear. as you get better you will be able to stab the throttel quickly to get the fast raise of the RPMs and find the gear. with everthing start slow and understand what all is going on to make the shift. When you get a feel for things it starts to become smoothe For smooth up shifting and trying to impress the instructor I suggest you rev up to around 1600RPM and as you are about to lift off the throttle,slightly pull on the stick so it comes out of gear smoothly. move stick to the next higher gear, press on that gear lightly and feel the "grind". as you reduce pedal on the throttel the RPMs will drop, as they drop the stick will fall softly into the next gear. When ever you have light presser on the stick waiting to find the next gear you will feel a slight grind in the wrist, but thats ok, as long as you cant hear it.Go slow and get a feel for the gears and how the revs make the stick feel right before it goes in. after you understand what it feels like when the revs are to high or to low you can focus on timing the shifts so that there is no grind at all. you simply will be timing the gear changes with the sound of the engine and will start to get good at it. when learning I think that slight soft grinds (only felt in the wrist) is perfectly fine because you get a feel for what the trans is doing and what too hi or too low of a RPM feels like. however you never want to pull hard on the stick because when it does get close to the right RPM it will jam it into gear and can damage things. Mack transmissions are diffrent than others. I drive both and have a hard time jumping back and forth. been doing this for a while and I still make mistakes so dont feel bad. just that you are asking for helps shows you want to learn correctly and that says alot about you. Hope this helps and good luck! Trent

I carry all the tools I need except the ones I will need when I brake down....

I just put new carpet, dynamat, and a damper pad in my RS. you will laugh but I used a rubber backed doorway mat. just cut it to size and it looked stock. I traced it out of the old rubber mat so everthing lined up. Cost me about $60. I think it was a 5'x 5' mat. the RW im working on has carpet as well what I found odd was it had this 1/2 pad under it that was glued to the floor. think it was for vibration and sound control.

that will look real nice Larry. I like your idea of following the angel brace of the rear cab wall. it will keep the strength and look just like some of the early "walk in" style sleepers. How are you goining about hooking up the shower and toilet?????? still planning on the fridge and flat screen cabel TVs??????

Like I said over at the ATHS..... I will check the yard when I have day light. I dont get to the yard on weekdays untill after 6pm and by then its dark and I cant see in the containers.

A great looking Superliner! looks about a 195"-200" WB? lots of aluminum. is the cab on air ride?

I think the superliner has another 3" of hood than that of a RS/RL700s. I say this as I measured my RS700 hood when parked next to a Superliner. I recall the superliner was a few " longer and the hood also sits taller due to the cab sitting a few " higher than a RS/RL. I know that the Cummins did not look cramped in a Superliner. in fact it looks just like any other truck that had one under the hood.

Unless they changed in recent years.....yes the forward and rear diffs have the 2 bolts inside the covers. the covers are inspection covers so that you can see whats going on inside. I think I used a socket and extention but I cant recall. I know the mack mechanics had some special tools to make it easy to get at them or they took a wrench heated it up and bend it so that you can get a good bite on the bolts. the cover comes off easy with (4) 9/16 bolts it may leak a little oil but normaly it all drains into the bottom housing Good point on checking the housing. My RR diff had cracks at the rear 3 bolts. looked as if it blew out at some time and pulled the flange upwards when she let go. When you re seal them most just clean and add sealant. I think there was a housing gasket but not sure if they caused more bad than good?

drop drive shafts. pull axels. remove any air lines that are mounted to the diff housings remove torque rods/side torque rods. remove diff side covers to access the 2 bolts behind them. remove the rest of the diff bolts. the rear rear will pull straight up. the forward diff may be tricky. if you cant slide the 5th wheel all the way back or slide off. you may have to remove it. Not sure if your rears are springs or air but that will come into where the cross members are. If the crossmember is far forward you may be able to sneak it out by jacking up the rear axel to the stops and use the extra room to pull the forward diff out of the housing,forward and up thru the rails. first time will take about 5-7 hrs to get both out if everything goes smooth. I did it for my first time last year and the hardest part was getting to the forward rear inside bolts.

found the auto car site lastnight. I see they build YArd and refuse trucks. I thought all the ones I see out west were just old White GMC? and they last in the nice warm CA weather? Is vulva outselling mack again? last I saw they were falling behind? Only ask because I see more OTR vulvas than Vocational macks? see very few vulva vocational trucks here in Chicago. Mack owners around here went to paccar in the last 10 years.Mainly after the R-RD was noted that it was ending soon.just a few recently came back. What I thoght was odd was that many of the old 100% mack fleets always bought R models and wanted more.It would be intresting to see the sales numbers for the last 5-10 years of R-RD. I know a few fleets bought large orders of them to get in before they ended the model. over that same time frame Dealers seamed to push the CH hard but fewer CH showed up and older Rs kept working. Yea the Macks from Down under look alot better than what we get over here. Wonder how mack sales are over there. the superliner and trident look more like a mack then the vison and titans. Not trying to step on anyones trucks and put them down just my .02 on what IMO looks better.

Did Auto car go completly under or is it still a part of volvo? I know they had a website that said they built low entry garbage trucks (kinda like the Mack LE).. have never seen any on the road tho?