Lmackattack

The owner...a guy named mack, who ownes a Volvo.....im Speachless.... 1.5 is impressive tho.....

look who stopped by for a photo with my truck. they were so nice even in 20 degree weather....

Here is what I would like under my tree... I dont need them all, any 2 of them would be fine..thank you..

my opinion is that any time you let a engine idel more than 5 mins you should bump the idel up to aroud 800 RPM. It raises oil press and will burn a little cleaner.

the clamp that holds the turbo snale to the center section? or the outlet of the turbo to the crossover pipe to the box? that would explain your high EGT and the tip turbine not working or sounding as it should... glad you found the issue!.

I saw that on the TV last week... man I feel for you. you are lucky you had fuel. I was shut down last monday on I65 for the same reasons. Brand new UPS truck with a set of doubles went over and blocked the NB lanes. luckly it was only about 1 hours wait. regarding the pay that is kinda poor....$25 a load is good if you can keep moving and make the loads. If your waiting longer than it takes to get loaded and takes longer to wait in line for the dump it becomes a sad rate at the end of the day. Figure each load takes 30 min round trip thats 20 loads in 10 hours. $25 x 20 loads is only $500. put $150 back in the tank and you only made $350 in 10 hours or $35 an hour...

I had heard about this truck when I was buying parts from my local PAI store. they closed the doors a few years back but the parts guys were telling me that the company was building a old B model. Guess it was you???? very nice job. looks like a great truck.

thanks, sal's truck is sweet id like to do my exhaust like his, did he make new brackets or is there a kit to bolt up tp the factory brackets, thanks dont know if it helps But I just made some new Exhaust mounts for My RS700. the factory cab mount brackets were made for 9" mufflers. just a simple band but they were a problem all the time, crooked and sagging etc... What I did was used the factory inner cab stiffner plates but made my own out side brackets. Once they were bolted to the cab I used a Pete style clamp to hold the straight stack closer to the cab bracket.. I could have made them about 2" closer but I think they look fine. I can still fit a muffler on if I want but that was not the look I wanted. the top mount is factory it uses the rain rail to hold a steel bracket/clamp a quick fab and I also used the same pete style clamp up top. the hard part was adding the bottom under cab bracket. I used a angle iron welded to the inder side that has holes for a saddle clamp to hold the bottom of the elbow. the lower clamps support all the weight and the rain rail bracket just holds the pipe straight and level.

just a fyi you can remove the black pipe to/from the air filter/tip turbine and see the wheel. Check to see if it spinns without removing the turbine. Its a sealed unit and has self contained oil. Start the truck up and watch the wheel. it mostlikely will not spin at idel RPM but if you bring the revs up to around 1500 and get 1-2PSI of boost it should start to move on its own. If you can rev the engine and the wheel does not spin thats a problem. Im still wondering where that gasket goes to. If it has a rats nest in it the air will not be able to get out after it passes they the charge cooler. I say check the flow and movement of the turbine and then start looking for any blockage or restriction to the charge cooling system. also I know you said you have good boost but I did not see what it was exactly. if its less than 18-20 psi it may be overfueling with low boost and thats another way EGTs can get high. I had a bad turbo with mine and was only getting 14 psi max. I was hitting 1200* by the time I made it to 5th gear and had to feather the throttle and watch the gauges with a load on.

depends how long the shaft will be from trans yoke to the diff. you may need a center support bearing if its to long. the center support will mount to a crossmember closer to the transmission Driveshafts can be made easy and fairly cheep depending on if you reuse the old yokes and if you need a center support bearing. first find the length and you can go from there. you may be able to find a shaft out of a long WB truck and have it shortened?

yea 1300* is to high. the tip turbine is held on with a lage V clamp and the bleed tube hose clamp. remove those 2 clamps to get the turbine off, and see if that turbine wheel spins freely.

You want a little out side air to enter in the cold winter months because your body heat lets of moisture. When you have the windows rolled up the out side air will help take up that moisture and reduce the windows from fogging up. just like defrosting the windshield... you want out side air to take the fog off the inside of the glass. If your red dot unit is hooked up properly it will automaticly operate the cowl vent. max ac the vent is closed. you should be able to adjust the door to limit how much it opens to let out side air in.

the sound you hear from tip turbines is coming out of the cooler fins. That gasket is catching the air and sound and routing it to a diffrent aera where you cant hear it as good. If we had a pic of where its routing the air we may have a clue why they re routed it. if it was routed to a componet that needs cooling its likely that the air you hear leaking out is from your torn gasket. This is because it can escape thru the tear faster than where it was intended to be routed thry. again a pic of it would help us better... just as a learning experince take a better look at how the air flows. you will see that just a little boost is bleed off (1" pipe fom the box to the turbine) and used to power the turbine, then IIRC that air that powers the turbine is let out into the engine compartment. the turbine then pulls air from the filter thru the top air filter tube, thry the turbine and pushed across the charge cooler fins, it exhausts out into the engine compartment. 95% of the boost from the turbo runs into the top charge cooler, thry it, than out the bottom and into the intake manafold. Its a weird setup but simple to see how it works in an exploded view. you may also want to look at the Check Valve (located on the 1" pipe)(unless it was not needed for your applacation?)between the box and turbine. it should have a rubber "flap" in it that only allows air to flow into the trubine. if air tries to back flow into the engine it should shut.this prevents unfiltered air to enter the engine when the turbine is at idle. this valave will have a metal tab helps controls how much of the boosted air can flow into the turbine. if its missing or bent so that it lets to much air in you can over speed the turbine and louse boost, its a simple check.hope this helps.. Trent

Yea I have never seen that one before. The gasket I thought you needed was the one that goes under the box cover between the charge cooler and box top. the "gasket" you show (as mentioned) looks like it just routes the air that passed thry the cooler to a diffrent aera. Also noted that this air is not boost. its just air that the turbine pushed thru the cooler to cool the boosted air. Where does this gasket route air to? trans cooler,oil cooler??? your truck should make between 23-25PSi of boost under load. less than 23 you have a leak or tired turbo / engine etc...., if you hitting 25+ you got a strong runner. mine pushes 27-30 PSI on cold days and can keep up with a 300-350 mack

Donaldson makes the black plastic ram tubes with the louvered sides. I know there was a company that made the shorty/fat mouth ram tube that was stainless or chrome. I think Rob had one on a R700 truck he bought. I think it was called a turbo ram or turbo 9000 ram???? Rob may be able to tell you who made it... Trent

yep sounds about right... mine is set up for about 62MPH at 2300. 5.73 rears with a double over quad box.... fastest I have been with it was 25MPH tho...yard miles only

your old B model, if not worked, will run cold all the time in the winter months. make sure the shutters close when cold and open when hot. need to work them to get to 180, My R model mack will not go over 160 when started and left to idle in 20-30 deg weather. but as soon as I start working it she comes up to 180 and holds.

I thought all mack rears had the Power divider on the forward rear only? if you want to rebuild the power divider you dont have to pull the diff out. But if the diff has to much play in it than you might as well pull it out. Vibrations are a PITA to locate. Drive shaft,tires, power divider, cab mounts, shocks, even the throttle return spring can cause engine serge and cause vibrations. I have also heard that the camelback rears seam to cause a issue with the axels bouncing and fighting each other.

What motor? sounds like the water level is low or the thurmostat is missing/stuck open.Check water level in rad, if topped off pull thurmostat and replace with a new one that is correct for the engines operating temp.

I just bought 2 chrome round grover air horns for my R model mack, from my mack dealer, IIRC it was around $110 for both with stantions and roof gaskets

yea I heard they were NLA from mack. did you try PAI? . They make alot of mack knock off parts? I may have a used spare at the yard will have to get back to you on this over the weekend

Rob Search R.G. smith and equipment out of Des planes IL. They finished off alot of the Chicago Mack tractors. My dads truck went thru there and alot of Kanzlers R models made a stop before it went to its first owner. R.G. Smith did stuff like adding the 5th wheel, fenders, stainless parts, and other options that people ordered for factory delivery from Mack. My dads truck had steel 1/2 fenders and the old Mack I drove at Kanzler had them as well. I do know that alot are localy made by fabracators that repair dump trucks/ Dons welding in Wauconda IL made some full alum fenders for Kanzlers Pete. I know they can get Pricy tho!!

is that a old sanding box infront of the drives on the R model? Havent seen one of those in years. thanks for sharing

that looks to be an Rossi Construction R700. Out of Northlake IL?(western Chicago burbs) they have a yard near North and wolf Rd near the UP intermodal yard. I think they had 3 of them for lowboy trucks they also have a B model water truck that still sees use. at least it was still being used 2 years ago

very nice resto. kinda off tipic but Its nice to see that there are a few people that can see thru Pete and KW. Last couple of truck shows I went to was 95% paccar. its like going into a pete dealer instead of a show. I like all trucks but you have to have a mix of them to keep it intrested.