Lmackattack

I work for a company that sells Racecars/Auto Racing parts in 3 diffrent series...ALMS,Formula Ford 2000 and IMSA lites. We also have a 2 car race team that competes in the IRL. Been working here for 10 years so far driving that parts truck and rebuilding Suspension

On my RS I have a donaldson 2 outlet filter housing that takes 2 filters. It has 1 short / 1 tall filter elements that are seaparated by a metal plate. each element feeds a diffrent tube. What I want to know is why did they have 2 filter elements and is there a way to just to use a sungle filter element? I went searching for numbers and I found a sticker on the upper filter but I cant find a part number on my lower filter. I went to napa and carquest this week and cant find any part numbers that cross refrence... anyone have a part number for a single filter that fits this style housing? VIN RS786LST32474 Thanks Trent

sounds like a bad govener if it leting it build over 120 psi. regarding the leakdown. it also may be leaking thru the signal line to/from the govener????

Im glad I dont have to go into big citys often with the race hauler. but when I do Its not fun. I took the back roads thry upstate NY a few months ago and In the small towns needed all lanes at the intersections to make turns. Buildings on all 4 corners just 4' back from the street. My Trailer is 53' with the axels solid mouted at the rear I cant hop large curbs with the side farings near the wheels. then the gen box sticks out and have to watch both mirrors on a hard turn to make sure the box dont take out a pole. when we do the downtown events many times I go in at night just to avoid trying to get in the central part of the city with heavy traffic. the small towns are just as bad. Knock on wood I have never gotten stuck under a bridge or on a dead end street (yet) and I know what you mean with directions. How hard is it to figure out where you are from any major freeway or major intersection?????

glad its fixed!

What I did a few years back was ordered the center bullet light from mack and then bought the other 4 lights from a chrome shop. the style and bulb type were all the same, If you want LED you can buy LED "bulbs" that fit the socket. you can get the bright LED bulbs from $5-$14 each. Check out this site for bulbs http://www.truxaccessories.com/main/LED_Bulb.html

that engine and trans was a common OTR set up. Kanzlers valuliner with that steering box on it that we need to get off. has the same specs except it has 3.87 rears. If I recall The truck could hit 75MPH on the hiway.

what?..... Have not seen that done......yet..... I think a CH hood is wider than a R? I know the cab feels a little wider. I think the CH is set back axel, R model hoods are forward axel. you may be able to use a RB hood? anything can be done if you have the time and skill

Never ran tube tires.... I always ran what the mfg said was the max. unless it was a show truck, then I ran as low as 80 in the steer and 50 psi just for ride comfort to and from local shows...

Could also back the slacks all the way off so the shoes dont contact the drums

on older trucks it was possible. I think the problem with new trucks is the tractor protection valve??? If I recall you could hook air to the red hose. push the valve in and air could be put into the emergency tank to charge? With new trucks if its not the Tractor Protection Valve its the check valves thru the system that dont allow this. They obviously only let air flow one way. It shuts if air tries to flow back to the tank. Rob on the RS macks I put a air tool fitting on the wet tank. I can charge it with shop air if I want to move the truck without waiting for it to charge. a monkey wrench and a air tool fitting is all that is needed (besides the air!) Works great.

All I know is this same question seams to come up once every 3 weeks. A bad vibration can be so many things that many times its not just one problem... I had a bad U joint that took grease and did not leak out. Dident know untill I replaced it. then I had a bad drive tire. Belts were shot and was way out of balance. Worn cab rubbers may have magnified the issue so I replaced them at the same time..All examples shook the truck just the same. started at 35mph and went away around 50. if you stayed in the power it was less. worse when coasting... Its just one of those gremlins that you will have to chase.

2nd place that night search user "Lmackattack" on youtube for all the pulls we have made with this truck. 2010 pulls http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkyrSouBScg http://www.youtube.com/user/Lmackattack#p/u/10/Exyhst1zGLw 2009 pulls http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8DHbjfdsZiM&NR=1 http://www.youtube.com/user/Lmackattack#p/a/u/0/zKvW12yLMWU

for those that like smoke. this was our first pull of the 2010 season... 2nd gear start..

IIRC my buzzer was under the dash near the steering colum. also had a low oil press switch hooked to the oil line near the LH panel that connector ran to a buzzer as well....

seams to be a common problem with macks of this era. Tires, driveshaft,U joint,Cab rubbers,Motormounts, shocks, springs are all possible things, Start with the easy stuff first.... Its never one issue. My truck had the same problem. it was bad shocks and tires

TRTXL1070 was the model number... It should be a OD transmission I checked and if its a .78OD that will give me about 77MPH at 2100 or 65mph at 1700. A little tall geared for a 285 but if I will have more low gears and a go home gear

yea I only drove the 100% air shift versions. drove one behind a 350 and one behind a 300. I like that you can drive it like a 5 speed. or split if you need. . with the 300 I would start in direct/1,2,3,4,5 then split to hi and go home in OD. I know the grind that you talk about. hard to get use to and know it hard not to..... Im thinking about bidding on it for my RS700L. off the top of your head...What top speed will I have with 4.17s? and LP24.5s. Im stuck at 62MPH/2100RPM right now. Speed limit in IL just went to 65MPH.

tires are unsprung weight. think of them like a basket ball. problem is we have 8 of them out back all bouncing. try this to see if it helps. First reduce the air press in all 8 down to about 20 psi then go bobtail around. if the bounce went away. it could be a tire balance issue. have them all ballanced. Most people dont balance drive tires but it can make a diffrence. I know it does on a car so it has to on a truck. other issue is that the springs really dont move much and they pivot at one point on the suspention. If you dont have shocks to help control tire bounce you will feel it. If the vibration is bad with a load on the truck it can be bad motor mounts, or drive train issues. I have even heard a bad power divider can cause bad vibrations ?

He is just pulling your chain, aka.... making a joke.

thanks for this info I may bid on this if the price is right... can you simply add a air shift for the aux box? and remove the stick? does it take the mack pto that runs off the lower counter shaft? also is this one of the only mack 2 stick transmissions that has the main stick on the out side?

thats what I was thinking... anything to look out for with the older model 12 speeds?

how do you shift the 2 stick 12 speed? Do you just use the main and split like the single stick 12? then use the aux for low and reverse?

saw a listing for a 12 speed , pics show it has 2 sticks and a air shift cover at the rear. all the 12 speeds I drove had a single stick with air splitter for Direct,Hi,Reverse on the stick and low low on the dash switch. ever seen this before

thanks for the link dan... the point was when he said "go left on Dundee Rd" I did not have to ask 3 times "WHAT WAY!" I dont talk on the phone when driving but do have a nextel..... beep,beep