Lmackattack

Brad.. I spent all summer working on the RS cab. I painted the unseen interior parts with a rubber undercoat paint. then put dynamat throughout the whole cab. The cab floor I added dynamat, sound matt, and carpet on top of that. Under the removable floor I put a 2" foam,foil,insulation square. this square is used in gen boxes to keep the engine sounds inside. Fire wall has dynamat,soundmat, and removable Carpet sections that have insulation added. Rear wall has dynamat with 2" insulation between the interior rear wall and steel cab wall. I stuffed 5" of insulation in the cab corners. Roof was the hardest part as there is little room to stuff insulation. The under hood firewall will get some removable 1" foam. I can see it had this from the factory but was long gone before I bought the truck. I also will be adding 1" foam on the under sound of the hood and hood sides. I tested the hood foam and it made a huge diffrence when the hood was closed. Right now the biggest issue is the steering shaft hole in the fire wall and gear levers. those are the w 2 holes that let in the most sound. with the cab doors closed, windows up, engine fan off, its pretty quiet. If it was a newer electronic engine under the hood it would be just as quiet as a new pete or KW. I was on the phone with a friend and he did not know I was in a truck.... Trent

I must be lucky because most of the time at my Mack Dealer..... Northern Il Mack.... I can call and order R model parts and they likely will know the part number and can tell me if its in stock with out having to call me back.... Dan... what law just passed (dident pass) with the railroads?

thats great to hear. hope it keeps moving forward........ off topic ..Mack3P.... last year I recall you had to move if you wanted to keep the job? is that still an issue or are you secure for now?

when ever this happend I had a the air/water separater was clogged or the filter was old. Mine did this every 40 sec and after I replaced it (5 years ago) it acts normal. I really only notice it only kicking off after the gov kicks out.

RW they could have had ,285,300,315 HP 6 cyl macks as well as the line of V8 macks, off breed engines detroit, cat, and cummins I6 and V8-V12 models. Just about all transmissions offered mack and offbreed. common was mack 6cyl with mack transmissions but their were alot of offbreed drivetrain found in them due to the larger hoods.

thats is good news..

I have seen this on a few diffrent trucks. At work we have a 1996 IH that has a crossmember that was cut out with a torch so that the U joints dont rub... this was a factory fix!!!... Only thing I could think of besides replacing the crossmember is to add "stops" on the axel tube/frame so that it cant move that far up. some R models with camelbacks had these "stops". My RS700L has them

R models had some diffrent interior trim levels. in the late 60s-the 1972 years it was green steel and tan... pretty common and basic. With the intro of the R+3 cabs came more options but most common was the tan. Western R Macks I think had the most availible. I have seen Western R macks with Black,Gray,Brown,Red,Tan,and Blue. some of the interiors were very nice with embossed dogs in the seats and door panels. and diamond pleated cab walls. In the late 80s thru the 90s it was pretty plane again with charcoal being the most common. I dont know all the options but yes there was more than tan and gray

thats pretty cool dan... did you play the lotto today?

sounds like the same issue my company IH has with a stainless visor. you have to find the vibration and adjust that aera to get it to stop. I took a nerf ball and stuffed it in a few places and went for a 75mph drive on a windy day to fing the issue... hope this helps Trent

I was in canada about 10 years ago I saw one of these as a cement truck. also saw a R or RB? with twin steer as a concrete truck. Was up there 2 weeks ago and saw very few macks compaired to the last time I was up there....

If this is the raised part of the rear cab floor, where the Passenger seat rear legs bolts to, it should be straight and flat from side wall to side wall. is it bent upwards where the 2 large bolts are in the rear cab floor? those bolts are for the rear cab mount. If it is a non air ride cab it is possible that bad roads caused the cab to dent upwards. I have seen a few R models that had this issue. they were always on/off road construction tractors and had rubber pad rear cab mounts. One was so bad that it had to be welded. its not a common issue but have seen it a few times.Look under the cab and see if there is rust or if the cab mounts are pushed up into the cab floor.

Update. I removed a door panel from the passenger side of a mid 90s R model and put my 1977 panel in the door. the good news is that a new door will accept a panel that has the old style (round)latch without any modifacation. It also looks stock and no large gaps in the latch aera.I was able to bolt in my old panel and all the bolt holes lined up. Only thing I could not test was the latching of the door. Painted it tonight and will bolt it on tomorrow if I have time after work. Trent

I have doors with the round cut outs for the latch. I need a new drivers door but all I can find is the doors with the "D" shaped hole for the newer style latch. The mounting holes all look to be located in the same place just the cut out for the latch looks diffren? Can you bolt a newer door on a older cab modify the hole and will it operate correctly?

at the Iowa 80 truck show a few months back I saw a new pete with air ride front axel. I was suprised to see it had 1 and 1/2 leafs...a single leaf ran from forward and rear shackles and the 1/2 leaf started from the front and ended just behind the axel. this is where 2 small air bags were bolted to the axel/frame. driver could control air press from the cab. said it rode like a old classic car does. no shock at all. I wonder if thats a on road only set up? If it could be used off road I would like to find a set up like that. not just for the comfort but it puts less abuse on the truck. let us know how your set up is when your done

im not that old but I remember the parts books. what I really liked was pumping my gas/diesel and then going in after I was done filling up. now its..... going in to pay, going back out to pump....going in to get your recipt and snacks...back out to you car..... and they dident have cameras back them to catch people driving off because it rarely happend...

1972 R685 with a 1979 285HP tip turbine Specs 2 stick 6 speed (direct) 4.17 rears new flat black paint and rustoleum red has lost only twice to Mr Stark. was taken off the road in 2005 started pulling in 2008-09

next one is Pecotonica IL, Winnabago Co fair this tuesday night. Its up in North central IL. Near Rockford

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkyrSouBScg

old last call has took 2nd place 2 times this year. here are a few vids http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Exyhst1zGLw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2gMvZE4nCgI

are these lines for oil,water,fuel of a engine? if so you can buy fittings in the diffrent sizes and make your own. I think the hose is styroflex? (sp?)they are not crimped on they slip into the hose and the outter part screws down to hold it tight. the end fitting is basicly 2 parts. with one having a swivel end that tightens down on the hose as you put the fitting together. Is this what your looking for?

10-4 !

Well 2 months later and I am making good progress. Roof went on a few weeks ago. had to riv nut all the holes to accept the horns/lights/visor etc... after I got that done I had to drill/locate the upper exhaust Brackets that bolt to the rain rail (RS-RL macks have this with exhausts that bolt to the cab) then I had to re-make the 4 inner brackets that bolt to the inside of the cab corners. almost all the inner cab nuts that hold the stacks on were stripped out or rusted. then I found that I had to drill the inner walls to access the nuts that hold the cab handels. pretty much all the hidden nuts that you cant get to were stripped or had broke the tack welds that keep them from spinning. I have sanded the whole cab and need repaired all the dents. paint should go on by this weekend. I hope.... Race season has gotten in the way of things and it always seams I just dont have the time to get things done.

the 675/676 will fit if you put the B model engine water pump, pullys etc... on the 675/676. will need to relocate R cab mounts with the B. clutcc linkage is also diffrent.... Those are the things I can think of off the top of my head. I see alot Of R frames with B cabs on them. you can see where people had to make adjustments

looks like a nice project there. dash looks great. I use the ash tray for change thats it would have been better if it was a cup holder. that and I dont smoke. Is the vinal tucked under the back side of the dash. It looks like it just stops where it meets the defroster holes near the windshield. If that is the case Im wondering if I can just full the current trears inthe stock dash and then have someone recover the dash with new vinal glued over the old vinal. what do ya think???? Trent