Lmackattack

the dash in my RS is a little worn out. Sun has beaten the padding to the point that it has cracked on the back side near the windshields.. What im wondering is if I can recover this dash with a new vinal pad pulled over it. or does the whole dash need to be removed? I have the windshields out so now is the time to fix it if its not to much of a Pain....

I have used por 15 engine paint on my 65 cadillac engine. and am currently using it on my Roof repair the stuff does the job and impressed with it. I sprayed the engine with a normal paint gun and brushed on for my roof repair project. they both go on easy.

good selection of chrome for off breed trucks plenty of Misc items that will fit a mack. like anything in house shoping is better than over the phone. Just picked up 1/2 fenders, 7'deck plate and hangers this week. Search "Grand rock exhaust" is where I like to buy stacks. they have a online catalog

Update.... over the last week I was able to Cut out all the rust spots on the cab,Put in new sheet metal patches, got the rear rain gutter on the cab wall. I test fitted the roof skin and it fit in the gutters pretty damm good. I did not have to bend or bang it in the gutter. It fit like a old hat. I was kinda impresse with myself. Today however was kinda a PITA. the 3M rubberized paint does not like to flow thry the 360 deg wand, instead it likes to shoot out the vent hole and all over my head. I spent most of today welding and grinding on the gutter to get it ready for the roof skin. then ran out of gringing discs, Needed some 3M panel bond but the local store was all out. I will be gluing the skin on and sealing the crap out of it once installed. I know rob is not a big fan of the glue method but we will see how it holds up. I leave tomorrow for the ALMS Race in Utah this weekend so I will have to finish it next week. Trent

what I think is funny is I cant find one person who will come out and say... "I voted for him"

I think the front axel location is the biggest issue. If you have a set forward 2001 truck the Cab and hood of a Superliner or RS700L should fit with basic mods of cab and hood mounts. if its a set back axel it will be very hard to get things to fit....

I leave Tuesday (6th) and will not return untill the the following Tuesday (13th). I should be home for a week or two aftr I get back...

Rob that made my day LOL.... I had to share this on my Facebook page. On another note im home this weekend. I think you were going to get that cab and then head over my way to pick up the steering parts??? Just let me know. Trent

we just had a cam in a 3406E go bad. $5250 to R and R. All cat brand parts

I cant wait to hear this story...Ill call you tomorrow!

Follow Terrys advice on rules. in the series you will have to follow strict rules unlike the local fairgrounds E9 with a 12 speed on camelback or air ride. 4.17 or higher(slower mph) rears. Try and win the lotto so you can afford to build the pump and get a pulling clutch. If your just in it for fun any 6 cyl 285-300-350 will work by turning the stock pump up all the way and keeping 20 psi in the rear tires. Have fun..

I have seen alot of guys use the torqe multiplier on the trunion U bolts to get them tight. run the truck for a few days and then check them again. I agree that the urathane lasts longer. I think you can get them for the trunion and pads that are between the main spring at each axel end. you should notice that the rears track better in hard turns and dont dog track going down the road. IMO Ride comfort is not noticed after new bushings and pads are installed...

Displacement is likely the issue. I rember the engine brake on the maxidynes. you had 3rd gear and that was pretty much it for your engine braking, if it could hold it back.... LOL. No replacement for displacent. I run my 3406 to 2000RPM on the engine brake and sometimes to 2100.Its a big diffrence in stoping power from 1800-2100. I never let it go past 2100 tho but do know other drivers that let them spin to 2200.. Trent

On the 3406E Cat / 18 speed trans I drive, Grossing 72K, I can decend most hills in 14th-15th gear(6th or 7th hole in hi range) and maintain about 40-45 MPH without out the need to use the brake pedal. if I do hit the pedal its just to get it one gear lower and then never touch it again. I know Macks engine brakes always seamed weak to me? Trent

put the card board in front of the rad so that it does not damage the fan blades. rev the engine to around 1400 and listen for the change in fan noise.fan should kick in around 180-200 deg or when ever it thinks its hot. Mine will come on when cold,shut off and then come back on around 180.. the noise should be vary noticable when the fan locks in. like driveing 55MPH with the windows up or down....

Interiors are hard to find. I had to get a used set and have it slightly repaired and upgraded. I even tried a vin from a last year production Rd model and had no luck? save what you have and have it copied, it may be the best way to have it done. Trent

ok will have to check the build sheet when I get back home. I thoght the 12 leafs were done after around the mid 70s? learn something new every day. Thanks for the help guys!! stay tuned

Thanks guys.. hmmm..it is a 3 leaf currently on the truck . and looks stock? will my build sheet show the front spring arangment? truck was built in 1977 so I think the 11 and 12 leafs were outdated by then?

RS786LST32474 3 leaf Front spring can anyone run my vin and tell me what front springs I have? or what they transfer to? Looking to have a shop make me new front parabolic springs for me, have to start with OEM numbers. Thanks Trent

looks like ryco rear suspension and off breed diffs. Over all it looks nice but with some odd options. Dash is plane jane even for a stock R model... Interior level is above stock but has tan panel incerts with the black paint. kinda odd?

Steve I was thinking the same thing at first. when Rob was telling me "wait theres more to find" I was thinking no way it could be bad besides the rear... well he was correct but I do think I cought it in time and its not as bad as it could have been if I waited 5 more years to do this job....To be honest the cab had little rust that could be seen from the out side. I only went after the rust bubbles as I wanted to make sure it did not progress below the gutter rails. Like you said...I figured that I could remove the old skin and add a new one and that was it. Then When I removed the skin, it was in better shape than all the other sheet metal under it???. The gutter was even in fair shape considering its age. The rear cab wall/corners and the front corners showed the worst of it. All these locations cant be sceen from inside or out side the cab with the roof skin on. The roof skin only had come apart at the 90 deg flange that sits in the rear rain gutter. everywhere els the skin was fine. I took Robs advice and bought some rust prevention paint and will be buying this rust fire stuff he speaks of and doing all the cab nook and crannies that I can find. even if I have to drill a hole to get the applacater wand into a tight spot. I think its worth it to coat the seams weather rust is there or not. I know that there is more rust somewhere and buying time is cheeper than just letting it progress. just my .02 Trent

IF YOU CALL AND I DONT ANSWER I WILL CALL YOU RIGHT BACK. IM AT WORK UNTILL 5PM TRENT

Rob is this the Rust free/rust fire your talking about? I cant seam to find "Rust Fire" doing a google search? http://www.theruststore.com/Boeshield-Rust-Free-Spray-P2C1.aspx I may order the 3M applacator gun, 360 deg applacator hose, 3M rubber under coat to help reduce any vibrations. then spray the rust free over it all to really seal it in. What do you think about that? Trent

look for the start solinoid on the fire wall. Should be just below the drivers side windshield. jump the 2 larger terminals with a wrench. if the engine cranks that solinoid is bad or the wireing to it is bad. :Note: dont stand in a puddle of water when doing this :End note:

" a little rust left hand cab corner" not going to fall for that one again!