Lmackattack

hmmm... I thought all 2 valve 300+ and 2 valve 350s had the air to air and air to water charge cooler?

is this ETZ673 the same as a ENDT676 285hp? they look the same from the out side? was the ETZ just a Ca emissions motor? Alwasy wondered what a ETZ was desegnated for. seamed kinda rare of a engine?

look for a galvanized steel cab. I think those were 1985+ years = less rust issues Look at sheet metal around rain gutter,window frames,door frames, under cab corners and door bottoms these are the most common rust locations. if its a common early-mid 80s mack it will likely have a 285-300 engine. 5-6 speed 4.17 rears on camelback. if this is what it has Check Trunion for cracks check double frames for spreading hood hindge aera for cracks in fiberglass king pins will have to have the front of truck raised off the ground to see how much slop there is

Project: Remove old door glass and replace with new glass... simple 1hr job,right? Here is how mine went. Day one... remove door panel. remove/ replace glass. See rust at bottom inside of door sand and coat door inside with epoxy cover door with dynamat remove vent window replace vent window replace door seals replace window wipers day 2.... touch up paint around window cant install door panel as paint is drying check floor boards for rust rust found remove gear lever x 2 remove floor boards snap of 2 foot valve bolts order foot valve sand and coat floor boards with rubber paint put dynamat on floor boards cant complet dynamat on floors order more dynamat to finish floors fix shifter cover boots remove heater box from fire wall remove fuse panel from fire wall remove old fire wall insulation (to be replace with dynamat) coat fire wall with rubber paint wait for rain to stop install vent window insall window panel day 2 ends with half the cab interior still on the deck plate

well if you want to go cheep ya can pull both heads,intake,exhaust,etc...all at once if you just plan to do the bottem end. that saves time and $$ Regarding internal parts... I have heard that the older mack brand stuff is now "made in china" and the PAI stuff is now about as good as the mack stuff. However in the last 8 or so years I have seen a few more failures with PAI pistons the last being 3 years ago and 2 failed PAI pistions in the same motor 100,000 miles... they may have improved but dont know. is that engine just tired or...?

belts tight? kink in hoses? if you turn the heater on does it blow hot? coolant level low? Head gasket issue? regarding the boost gauge... When I first installed mine it seamed to hold steady at 25psi now it holds steady untill about 20 and then starts to flutter? dont know why it does this.. I taped my gauge into the top of the intake runner. my guess was the pulse of the gauge is caused when the vlaves are opening/closing near the tapped in boost gauge line. air is moving/stoping as the valves open and shut? I just dont know why it was fine before?

Will have to see. I have the RS700 all torn apart waiting for parts. If its not ready I would have no way to get the sled pulling tractor up north. I will let you know if we plan to go. sound slike a good time.. Trent

you got lucky that the tractor stayed up. most frame trailers like to take the tractor with you when they go over. First job in Trucking I pulled a 24' frame end dump. leared the dos and donts real quick...knock on wood I never turned one over (yet) but came close a few times.

here is our 285 powered sled puller. only thing done was the pump was turned up and puff disconnected. 40,000lbs and wheels spinning. 2nd direct. these motors can do some impressive stuff with just stock parts.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ESgdON55V6E&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKvW12yLMWU

I think that is the one that I recall. never worked on on that suspension but It looks as I remember it. I recall it did have a few issues but never knew much about it to research it. I drove 3 trucks with this style and always liked how smooth they were (for a spring ride)when empty. they also had 4 dampers(one at each corner) to help control the tandems... If I recall only the 2 or 3 upper springs made contact with the lower main springs when the truck was loaded. hard to explain but I think one spring was arched a little diffrent? correct me if im wrong? Trent

the taperleaf I think had 3 or 4 springs and had a nicer ride than camelback. however IMO they were not as strong and seamed to be used more in On road tractors. Camelback is pretty bullet proof and parts are cheep. both did good in the off road but camelback could take overloads alot better. Nothing wrong with either and if its not going to be used for work the taperleaf will put less abuse on you and the truck. just my .02

not sure. looking at it I would say it was a canadian built truck with the big OTR tanks and spread tandems on air ride... ??? there are a few pics of it over at ATHS. I passed this truck on I80 about a week ago and then It showed up at the National ATHS show in CA over the weekend

bump the injection pump settings up 15-20% install a front mount if you have the room. if no room tweak the tip turbine boost inlet valve a little to allow more boosted air flow into the turbine. make sure the puff limiter is working correctly or disable it..you should feel a increase with this advice. Trent

chop cut and weld on to the current frame. I will put some inner frame rail channels across the welds and bolt them in between cross members on both sides of the weld. Im thinking I will stretch it to about 200" WB and this way if I want to add a sleeper down the road I will have some frame rail to do so.

have fun with that Larry. Think Ill let you test the waters with a old newway set up going under a B model. I have a neway tandem cut off that Im getting from a friend. As soon as he has time to cut it out of a junked tractor I will freshen it up and install it. For now I will just watch you and avoid any of your mistakes LOL!!!!! thanks trent

well got the driver side out tonight. came out easy as there was some rust in there with it. looked to be original glass as I saw a date safty stamp of what looked like 1977...LOL. it came out easy and a new rubber went in nice and snug. While I was in there I installed some Dynamat to help sound dead the truck. This weekend I plan to install dynamat in the other door,floor, rear cab wall and fire wall, Hopefull it will help quiet this truck down as its pretty noisy! im adding a 1/2 thick pad on the floor and fire wall so we will see if that helps Trent

I have never tried to remove the door glass from the channel that it rests in. how hard is it to get it dislodged from the rubber that holds it in?..fyi...im not talking about removing the DOOR panel.. thats the easy part!

Brad....your dads looks just as good. just not as much bling as this OTR truck has.

real clean R model that Art387 took from the road. also a few of a KW and FL all heading west on I80 last week.

good info guys, thanks....when I got the truck the roof had a few rust spots and I did some local repairs, now some more have showed up and I know its going to be a little ugly behind it. the only other places the truck has some issues is around the rear window, door bottoms and a few small spots behind the lower door molding. I would like to save the cab now and not have to replace it 10 years down the road... what do you figure a body shop would charge to do the roof work? this is if I had the cab gutted and ready to work on?

I have not seen a E9 in a RS700 yet but they did put V12 detroits in them (factory build) plenty of room to fit a E9. If they already put a front mount intercooler in front of the radiator for the 300... 1/4 your battel is done. alot of the RS models had the front engine mount tied in with the rad mount (all in one casting) leaving no room for a front mount intercooler between the rad and hood....hopefully they made room for one? Engine mounts may need to be changed/relocated back and a new hole may bee needed in the cab floor for the stick shift lever. If the truck has power steering it may need some provision to get the steering linkage to work? if its still set up for the older V8 you should be fine. would love to see some pics of the project!

My RS had a roof mounted AC unit. When I bought it it had a plate bolted to the roof in its place. I half assed patched that but now under the rain rails its starting to rust/bubble where the roof meets the cab sides. Is it better to replace the whole roof or can I just make a repair under the rain rail? If I make repairs I dont know if the rust will continue to spread? If I remove/replace the whole roof and let some por15 get down in the insides it may slow any rust issues down the sheet metal.. never done this before. Trent

if the truck has Power steering you will need to remove the pump as well. just 4 bolts if I recall and it slides back. you should not have to remove the return and feed lines to it. not a bad job about 1 hr to remove all the stuff and a little longer to get back on. thats if you have the room to access all the stuff.. Trent

I should mention this is kinda common with other makes as well.. we have had 2 3406E cats at work louse the seal in the cups and eat the injectors.

that is good news. What erks me is that I always hear people say the best truck for garbage hauling is Mack as they are built like Garbage. while I disagree I Kinda feeds fuel to that fire. The Mack Name needs help. Its lost out on the highways and lousing ground in the fields. Heck I cant find any flashy parts for a CH ,vision etc...mack at a chrome shop that are specific to mack. I just wish they would have promoted the name more rather than cutting it up with a big CAT