Lmackattack

I think you can safely turn a single frame tractor into a 6 wheel dump if you dont cut the frame and stretch it. I have seen alot of cracked single frames on 6 wheel dumps. put a weld in the rails and it will happen even quicker. Now with that said your the owner/driver and can limit what the truck will do. 6 wheelers tend to get the crap beat out of them. work a day on site and you will likly be over loaded all day long. Expect some operators to over load you all day...dirt falling off the sides! thats very hard on a single frame so dont expect it to last as long as a double frame spring ride can. I drove some R model dumps on a golf corse sites with 44k camelback rears that after years of abuse felt like Cadillac built the rear suspension. these trucks would do front wheel stands going up the grades to the dump aera, 1st gear only to the top, easy on the throttle, dont stop.and hopegully the guy in front of you makes it to the top safely. we had some jobs that you had to back up the hills and the drive tires would start to slip! you hear that moan from the gear box that makes you wonder if your feet are safe on the floor boards LOL...not good. If you have air ride will the air bags hold up to these kind of over loads? will it have the traction and articulation for the jobs? hopefully you wont see that severe of abuse but it happens. I took my 77' RS700L and put it into lowboy and dump truck use. It was set up for over the road and weighed in at 15,500 from the factory, now its at 16,000 with the wet kit, kinda light for a R model tractor as many eastern R models were around the 17,100 mark when set up for on/off road dump use. regardless it does the jobs good with the camelback but dont think it would be great for a 6 wheel dump. the single frame is not that thick, Drive shafts are sized for on road use and has 24.5 tires. Its your truck and you know its limitations. Only you know what you will need to get the jobs done.

sounds good to me...what did she say?

on the US models they have a door tag on the drivers door and stamped vin number on the RH frame rails.

Check the return spring and throttle lever first.. if thats ok then it sounds like the pump or gov is getting worn out. time for a check up! some have claimed they may run away if it gets worn out real bad...

you likely can fit a straight 4" stacks between the cab and camper body and put a muffler under the truck. looks like the hardest part will be getting a 90 deg bend at the cab corner. that engine is not to loud with straight stacks so a mini muffler should do the trick. just make sure the exit its well above the cab or your truck will be black on the top sides.

nice looking camper. The RS and RL R models are some of the finest they ever built. IMO all that truck needs is a diffrent color but thats just me.... Hope you have fun with it,

4 BOLTS UP TOP, 2 BOLTS ON THE BOTTOM, AND I THINK THERE ARE 2 BOLTS EACH SIDE NEAR THE HOOD LATCH. I DONT THINK THE HEAD LIGHT PANELS NEED TO COME OFF TO REMOVE IT....

I keep my tractor tandems at about 1/4 turn from tight and my trailer tandems at 1/2 turn from tight. the empty dump trailer always likes to lock up on a fast stop. Some trucks I drove you could set all axels the same and not worry. every truck is diffrent

Everyone has their own opinions on correct brake adjustments..but this is what I do. Build up air press to 120 psi.turn off truck, chock tires,release brakes, adjust the tractor tandems slacks so that they force the shoe to contact the drums. now back of 1/4 turn. trailer.... adjust the trailer tandem slacks so that they force the shoe to contact the drums. now back of 1/4-1/2 turn. if any wheel tends to lock up during normal braking. back that one off another 1/4 turn. to check if they are properly adjusted have someone measer the push rod travel when the brake is applied.(parking brake released/full air press in tanks) it should not travel more than 2" on a 20-20 or 30-30 chamber.

If I recall its on the driver side of the box? I think the back up alarm and light work off the same switch.. I dont have either on my trucks but have hooked up one years ago on a 6 speed. Its all done from the outside of the gear box....

check filters and lines for issues first. sounds like it has lost fuel somehow because if it had the same fuel flow as before but at a low 15psi your EGTs would likly be over 1000+. 23-26psi is normal boost. I get a solid 5mpg with the pump cranked up boosting 25psi. it will spike to 28 sometimes when the weather is right. is the android valve working correctly? some times it can restrict fuel if its not operating as it should.

great vid thanks for sharing. I model trains in Ho scale and love old macks... what a great combo to see from back in the day...

Someone send this to Mack HQ or the local news paper!! bravo!

I consider my self good at driving and better than most backing up. But the best guy I have seen backing up was this old guy named Don. he was in his late 50s and always a live wire. to much caffine? drugs? I dont know. He was one of the drivers that helped me get my licence and while teaching me the correct way to drive 99% of the time, once a week he had to show me some new "trick". He drove a 87 mack with a air shift 7 speed. would always back up in 4th and could get that 22' end dump trailer in any spot in his first try. (2nd try if he saw a hot chick walking across the street) Seen him do front wheel stands at a stop light. drive thru any soft muddy wet ground and make it look like he was on dry pavement. dump a load in spots you would think he should have gone over... talk his way out of a ticket. have 10k more of a load in his trailer but walk you from every stop light... you name it he could out do you. Not a guy anyone would really want in your truck but he was good at what he did and a pro at backing. And even with all the abuse he put the trucks thru he never tore stuff up like the others did..always wondered how he did it LOL!!!!.

Good job 53' trailers back easy but the blind spots can be a PITA. and yes a backing a long tractor with a short trailer is no fun ....even when your good LOL!!!

2 car batts will start it right up if it not to cold out and the engine does not need more than a 1-2 min of cranking to get it going. most of these old diesel will fire right up if the fuel system is still primed. most late 70s macks I have been around were 12V start so you can just use 2 standard batts. however it could be a 24V start system but you will just have to check. look at the volt meter sometimes it gives it away if its 12 or 24V system. post some more pics and welcome to the club....

let me know because Kanzler intrested in them....I just put them in their shop to store them today.... These would be good for spare tires or for a truck that does not see alot of miles. they came off the race hauler at work. I think its a full matched set that only saw highway miles. Call me tomorrow if you want more info....

been using PB for about 10 years alot faster than wd40 IMHO. also helps clean things better LOL!!!

not sure if anyone is looking for a set of used bridgestone M725 drive tires. none have been recaped. all came off the same OTR truck with .030-.040" tread left (11/32). make offer or OBO Trent

Rob I have (2) 4 valve head covers but not sure if they fit a engine brake? I thought there was a spacer under the valve covers for the engine brakes?. one cover has been polished via a REM machine. not chrome but better than a dull funish

try Tighten and then lousen a few times then hit it dead on with a hammer. see if it comes out....

not bad looking but does need a lower filler panel or better yet a tool box that blends into the sleeper sides

Dont know of any data on line. all the books have a few versions of the electrical systems with the diffrent options listed. If you truck was like mine you will have a few splices and such in alot of wires... I find that you should just replace all the exterior junction blocks and clean your grounds first and then follow the wires. I had to make new looms for my hood and rear tail lights on my 1977 RS. Trent

I have been on the road for 10 days now... last Sat was the ALMS 12 hours of sebring and now im in Atlanta picking up parts for a IRL race in St Pete. Wont get back home until a few days before easter weekend. I like racing but also like my weekends at home!!....

for a maxidyne the 12 speed was one of the best trans options to have. you can drive like a 5 speed if on the flats or split 3-4-5 in the hills. still had all your reverse gears. and plenty of low hole gears. and it was OD in top gear.. im still looking to add one to my 77 Mack