Lmackattack

I have been on the road for 10 days now... last Sat was the ALMS 12 hours of sebring and now im in Atlanta picking up parts for a IRL race in St Pete. Wont get back home until a few days before easter weekend. I like racing but also like my weekends at home!!....

for a maxidyne the 12 speed was one of the best trans options to have. you can drive like a 5 speed if on the flats or split 3-4-5 in the hills. still had all your reverse gears. and plenty of low hole gears. and it was OD in top gear.. im still looking to add one to my 77 Mack

the 12 speeds were basicly a 6 speed that you could split each gear in 1/2. It would have a low low gear that was on the dash switch. a very good trans for a maxidyne spec engine. you also had 5 gears in reverse. with a maxidyne/loaded I would shift 1-2-3 then split 4th and 5th empty 1-2-3-4-5. V8 fuel economy is poor considering todays standards. 5 mpg is about the avg it will get. parts prices can be compaired to CAT prices..(= big $$$$)the v8 fuel pump alone is almost the same cost of a E6 engine overhaul! Some parts are getting harder to locate as they are old engines now and volvo dont care for the old dogs.

If you come across a 36" sleeper that you dont want please let me know. Its what my truck had but was removed before I bought it. I have a few contacts to make next time I head west.

nice find My RS has a 206" WB and is a little short for a 36" sleeper. that frame gives you plenty of options.. looks like a good project truck!

I have straights on My RS700L, 285 maxidyne its got tall stacks and is not loud at all in the cab. has a nice note when it goes by but not to the point that it would attract the police. as long as the stack is a little over the top of the cab you will be able to live with it. Not my truck but this is what it will basicly sounds like with straight stacks.

I liked that one Rob!!!!

All the exhaust needs is flex pipe to allow the cab to move up and down a few inches. on the work truck (97 IH with eagle sleeper) the dual stacks are mounted between the cab and sleeper. the pipes go under the cab to a tee pipe that is bolted to a bracket. there is a flex pipe to each stack off of this Tee pipe. truck has 400k and we had to replace the flex pipes once due to rust. cab air ride is mounted at the back of the sleeper so the flex pipes sees half of the cab movemnt that is seen at the cab air bags. Pete and KW also mount stacks to the cab. they did a simmilar set up with the flex pipes that run from the Tee pipe to the bottom of the stacks. the cab air bags should only need about 20-40 psi to lift a cab. I dont have a solid number but they only fill to a PSI that levels the cab. if its over filling it will be rock solid. all the air ride cabs I have seen you could feel the cab move if walking in the sleeper or getting in and out of the truck? regarding exhaust temps... on my RS with twin straight stacks, no heat gaurds. I cant touch the stack or external mufflers after its been running down the road. If you have 1000 deg at the turbo I would think 200-300 deg (minimu)is what the stack is at?

the bags should have give in them. I would be suprised if they did not.I would Check the leveling valve first. some times they fail or get out of wack and the rear of the cab will sag and ride on the bump stops. its a simple adjustment to get the cab to sit level. you simple adjust the arm so that the cab sits level and then tighten it back down. Just like you would on the air ride rear axels.. I have to adjust my leveling valve about every 2 years as the bags get older and have more give to them.

cool find. I forget where I saw the pics but a few years ago someone posted some info about a guy that put a mack 237 or 300 in a bulldozer. cant recall if it was a cat or what but seamed like a cool idea

insurance companies that insure a company with leased trucks dont want the older trucks hauing their freight. not sure if its in fear of brake downs or damage caused from an older truck. regardless its BS... you buy what you want to drive it. Sometimes I wish we could go back to the late 1940s and start all over again!

Looks like 2500 RPM will meet the max speed your looking for but I dont like to run my engines at full RPM down the road unless I have to. I know they were built to do it but they are a little older now and the less stress the better IMHO. Regardless it will work for you .Lots of quads still around but in who knows what condition. I still have one for a spare but its been out doors for 8 years now. Im not sure of the bell housing size. Did you check on the clutch arangement. some of the macks had a push others had a pull style linkage..

I have a double overdrive quad in my B model and If I recall its geared to run a max road speed of about 62-64MPH at a max engine rpm of 2100RPM. this is with a 5.73 rear end ratio. Will this new engine you have be able to run a Higher RPM. if not your max speed will never be higher than this. What you need to find out is what the lowest gear ratio was and see if the quad or 10 speed will match it for starting abilitys. If you want a trans with a little better parts avalibility the Mack T200 series has transmissions may intrest you. they have a .60 overdrive and come in a selection of diffrent forward speeds. the were good transmissions and most defects are known. such as the clutch pack issues for the range select.

About 15 years one of my friends dads bought a new electric lawnmower. after the first year it had about 10 diffrent colors of extention cords spliced into it. Wonder why it never really cought on? LOL!!!

If im not mistaken all the old mack twin stick boxes are married. at least all the popular boxes were. the mack trans would be fine but I think its a little over sized for the applacation you have?. also not sure if you would need all those gears that the quadbox has? ' what transmission is in the truck now? reason I ask is if it currently has a real slow first you may consider finding a diffrent axel assy with a faster road speed. If your looking for road speed and cant find a diffrent diff ratio I would think a rear axel swap might be a little simpler job to do.

single stick 1st gear will be left and down, 2nd middle and up,3rd middle down. etc.... the stick will have a splitter valve on it.....Direct "D", low "L", reverse "R", neutral "N" drive it like a standard 5 speed when empty, with the splitter in D. with a heavy load on start in 2/"L",accelarate through the gear to near max RPM, pull stick out of gear,quickly move splitter into "D" as you are moveing the stick down into 1st, accelarate through 1st"D",2nd "D",3rd "D" etc..... the up shift from 2"L" to 1"D" is a quick shift so practice!

I dont own a newer mack and most Macks I have driven were built no later than 87'. a few friend have late 90s-early 2000s CH macks that have never had a major issue. I have noticed that the electronic mack engines tend to last longer but alot of them built after 2004 have electrical and emission issues. This is not just with Mack. Cat,Cummins and others have just as many small issues. I think the newer mack rears and gearboxes as almost as tuff as the R models but to compair most new trucks (mack included) to old B and R models I would still think that the old heavy stuff is stronger then todays light weight stuff However For on road you will be just fine with what they have to offer. and the ride diffrence between old and new is night and day. just my .02 Trent

could it be a marine E9? the valve covers and exhaust tubes kinda look like a E9?

done

I did the front diff input and the rear diff input seals last summer longest part of the job was getting the drive shaft off the yoke. If you have one of the newer style yokes where the caps just unbolt and come off them the drive shaft will basicly fall out. It should take no longer than an hour if all goes as planned and the drive shaft comes out easy. I recall the torq settings being tight but not to tight and this is all noted on mack diffs by the way. not sure what the off breed process is. oh and have fun working around the 5th wheel !!!! Trent

pull the U joint out to get the drive shaft off the yoke. Undue the large bolt that holds the yoke to the splines of the diffs input shaft.undue the bolts that hold the seal/cover on the housing. when the cover is off you can remove and replace the seal. if the input shaft is worn where the seal rides a speedy sleave can be used. Trent

let me know about the 1/87 macks Ryan. Very intrested in B and R model tandem tractors I like your dash9s. Im kinda lucky to live near Chicago as I see alot of RR all over the US come thru here. I get to see the UP every time im down at the club. The UP mainline into the old C&NW Chicago yard is 20 feet from our front door. a freight train every 20-30 mins and a commuter every hour to1/2 hour. I model mostly ICRR and CNW in the late 1940s-50s steam diesel transistion era. Trent

WOW. $280 just in fuel to get there and back for nothing more than a wasted weekend. I hope someone got their ass chewed out. any pics of the truck as it sat?? I looked at the pics and besides the stickers on the dash and a tear in the drivers seat It looked brand new in the ad??

only seen one G model in person and thought it looked very new considering its age. It does share some lines of the KWs of that day. Know of a guy that had a used one in CA but think he sold it a few years ago? He shared with me the same storys Goug brings up. Im sure the ones that know the whole truth are no longer with us? Al I also think the G looked a little better than the F but they proved them selves in the end..