Lmackattack

Thats the one I was thinking of... Thanks for finding it, I was thuming thru my WOT tonight but could not find it. Trent

the story that I think was in WOT? had a write up on what motors and gearboxes were in the truck thry the years of ownership. Also a few storys of running the truck out on the road with some risky runs etc... If you dont get a reply from the current owner look over at the ATHS you might find someone that remembers that mag issue. II just looked at the covers of My WOT issues and could not find it. It might have just been a write up on the internet that im thinking of??

-20 here this morning . I had to put my jacket on

i think wheels of time did a story on that truck a few years ago?

Intresting set up there theakerstwo. so that B model had an air to air,and the tip turbine with water core on that. thats alot of cooling there!! If my motor in the RS700 was slid back a few inches i could get the air to air in front of the rad but it would be to much of a PITA to move the rad back and engine back just for the Intercooler set up. what I notice with my tip turbine is that when im lugging around 1200 RPM in 3rd or 4th gear up an on ramp. the EGT temps climb to around 1000 Deg but as soon as the turbo starts to come alive around 1300-1400 the turbine winds up and brings the temps down to 850-900. I like the 1-2 up shift from a dead stop. First gear is to short to get the turbine going but 2nd does the trick. It sounds like twin turbos between the shits as you can hear both the turbo and turbine fan working together.

Thanks thad ! I couldent find that pic in my searches

Brandon you are correct the coldest air that passes across the core to cool the boosted air is that of the outside air temp. In the days of short WB trucks every inch counted. I assume Mack used the side mount charger as it was a compact engine design and the need for a front mount was not needed for the HP rating at the time. When the 300 maxidyne came out I believe is when the air ro air front mount was used. There was also a design on the 300+ engines that used a water core on top of the air charger core. this was a tipturbine but the core was taller to house the water core on top. The water came from the engines cooling system. because the engine water is cooler than the boost temps it helped reduce the intake temps along with the tip turbine air flow. water also carrys away heat better. I dont know how much better it worked but it worked and lots of people liked the 285 and 300+ motors.... If the water had its own tank to remove the heat it would have been a more complex but better design IMO. The air bleed pipe has a one way valve it allows air to flow to the turbine but it closes if unfiltered air trys to reverse back flow thry the turbine and into the engine this valve can also be adjusted to flow more or less air by "bending" the valve door stop. allowing more boost will spin the turbine faster as it has more volume to push it. the disadvantage to this is that it also will bleed off more boost its a catch 22 so to speak. an easy way to spot a 285 or 300+ is to look for the air cleaner. If it has 2 intake tubes that go under the hood or has a hood scoop on the passenger side near the turbo it might be a tip turbine. canadian macks alsi used twin tube on some air cleaners to draw in warm air so it could be either.? Its a neat design for what it does Trent

ill try to explain. the outside filterd air enters the turbo, then it is forced fed into the boost pipe that runs over to the side mounted charge cooler. there is a "bleed pipe" that comes off this boost pipe and sends some of the boosted air into the tip turbine. the rest of the air in the boost pipe goes through the cooler fins and into the engine to be used in combustion. the air that entered the "bleed pipe" enters the turbine, speeds it up under boost, and is ehausted to the outside air. As the other side of the turbine spins it draws in cool filtered air in and routes it over the charge cooler fins to cool the boosted air on the other side of the core. this air is also exhausted to the out side after it has passed through the core. the only air that enters the engine comes from the turbo and makes it past the "bleed pipe". I think it was the first charged cooled diesel engine but someonce can correct me if im wrong. They were compact and did not take up any more room infront of the engine. I think after length laws relaxed and bigger engines evolved the larger front mount air to air became the standard. Also to remove all that piping to perform a simple repair is a real PITA. Hope this helps?

At first I look I thought it was a early 70s RS700L but after Looking at the hood it does look like a R700. the fenders drop down past where the batt boxes should be. The RS700 fenders stop and a splash guard is used. it looks like they did alot of little mods to the truck.It has a diffrent bumper, batt boxes removed cab/sleeper work. that fuel tank is a little small for a road truck and not sure if its a mack tank, even has the tall air cleaner tube. Nice old R tho! Trent

very cool Find there. never seen a R model with an "integrel" speeper added to it. looks pretty classy to me

thats a tuff question there. Im a 100% mack man so It would be an easy pick for me but the choices you have are about even. The oskosh are tuff trucks. Meyer meterial uses both mack and oskosh and I have to say they both do the jobs just as well. I think you would like macks automatic powerdivider in the mud but the 8LL might give you better overall reduction? the mack looks better in my opinion and if you already have had good luck with Mack you knight as well stick with them. The DM and DMM model familys are one of the toughest trucks mack has built so you know what your getting into. I know that the transfercase is expencive to repair but both trucks have them. The maxidyne is better for low rpm tq so thats a bonus. Regardless i dont think you can go wrong with either truck Trent

I think I may still have the tank off my 2nd truck that was air start. next time im in the yard I will have to see if its still there? Its yours if you pay for the freight. This was off a 1965 B61 Trent

no

if you have the pic saved on your PC simply reply to this message and you will see a little box below that says "attachments" . in the far right of this box you will see a space that says browse.click that and search your computer for the pic. click on your pic and then hit the green upload button. now you have the pic added to your post. then hit "add reply" when your ready to post yur text an pic Hope this helps Trent

I does look like a bracket but the thickness suggest a hook. look at the front bumper chains. try that with one of todays trucks...

another reason why I stick with a Mechanical!!! Sounds like tipical troubles with water getting into places it should not. I can see how water getting into the plug would cause issues but a good connector should keep the water on the outside of the pins and away from the ECM internals. It may be worn wires that are letting water in? Hope you get the problem fixed.

Thad I found this http://www.allmetalssupply.com/5_bar.htm The one in your pic is considered an 4 bar diamond plate". Looks like it has more slats to better hold wet rain and ice . This alows you to fall on your butt faster and not know what or why it happend. With the standard diamond plate you would look at the wet plate,then lightly step on the wet plate, dance around and then fall down knowing you were going to do so anyways!

Shes Looking good rob!

those emblems are scarce I Just hope Barry will be around to run the "R Model store" when all these old R models are gone and the resto parts for them are in demand

I cant find the car in that picture?

wheres Larry at? I think he stays at the Holliday Inns all the time? Trent

I blew up a battery last summer. heard lots about it never had it happen to me. Got a whole new respect for them now. I was always carefull around them and always put the cables on before the power was pluged in. still didet matter. the charger was an old one, powerd by a Briggs 5 horse and it somehow let a small spark out as the cables went on. I think the coil or magneto on the engine was the culpret? blew up right below my hand. I had gloves on and sunglasses so no harm done. but I did get a sore finger out of it. every time I hook up a batt now I look away and close my eyes

AIR PUMP IS THE ISSUE

hey hey hey, NO ONE SAID ANTHING ABOUT WHO HAS THE MOST KIDS