Lmackattack

"EDIT" look on the drivers side of the engine on the intake runners for a sencer tapped into the casting, or look for a rubber hose that goes to a sencer. I belive he wants to trick the sencer to make the engine think its working less/harder? ie computer adds more fuel/less fuel etc...

Found it in my back yard last week. i had a purple 65 3 years ago but some vandals tourched it wile parked in a construction yard. will look real good trailerd behind my 65 B when ever i get done with it http://invite.filmloop.com/x?u0m8EMc8Ho4KN.../9Hcn9QCCUul2lH

THANKS FOR THE INFO guys. I have a solenoid from a R model dash that I will be using for under the dash on my B. The wierd thing is that my RS I dont hear that "click" when I turn the key. I will have to check to see if there is one there? I know the temp guage will not work if the jey is off but all the lights, acc, and pretty much the whole elec system works with the key off?? I should have the fuse panel tomorrow and start wireing in a few days

Im installing one of those painless wiring fuse blocks this weekend. I also have a silinoid i want to install that will turn the system on with the turn of the ign key. how does this all wire up so that the fuse panel is hot only after the silinoid is actavated. I assume that the ign has a hot lead after you turn it to "run". this hot lead should then be wired into the silinoid to turn on the fuse panel? does this sound correct? if so then where dose the hot lead to power the fuse panel wire up to? sorry if its confusing to explain

I blame this ULSD for all the fuel leaks that I have now. Injectors,delivery valves, lines etc... Im chasing all these issues about a month after the fuel came out But its good for the enviroment and that makes me feel like want to go hug trees

you have it labled correctly... you back off the nut on the left. turn it out a few flats then grab the rod and twist it untill the left nut makes contact with the bridge again. then hold the rod steady and tighten the nut on the right. the correct way would be to flow test the pump to see how far beyond spec it is but it will do the job and still be safe if you dont throw to much fuel at it. The RPM adjustment is under a plate at the bottom rear of the box. Be safe and remember to count the turns of the nut or rod as you may need to reset it? Not shure of the diffrence between american and robert bosch pumps?

undo the lock nuts on the rod (located the right side of the gov box when facing the side of the engine) and turn the rod a few flats(of the nut, ballpark 2-4 flats) then tighten them making shre the rod does not move. If I remember you want the rod to move towards the front of the truck to get more fuel. someone correct me if im wrong on the direction for more fuel.. now watch your boost and EGTs and make shure its not to much. also watch your wallet at the pump LOL :bmod1: Trent

Premo restoraton job. Larry I bet you had a smile ear to ear sitting in that truck

gotta love the maxdynes for that low end grunt.. and nice landng!!!! Those heavy mack rears wont take no for an answer!

Thats good news Dan Are you having the late 70s style interior with the plastic headliner made or the more current mid 80s and up with the vinal headliner? I would be intresed in both regardless. Any chance of a Bulldog embossed in the door panels???? just Wishfull thinkingLOL Trent

R is just the sieres . The Early "RD" models were basicly overbuilt R models mainly used in heavy offroad fields. Dont know exactly what the D stands for ? The early RDs Had steel butterfly hoods. at some point they offered one pice fiberglass hoods. Look on the pass side inner frame rail just foward of the front axel. Look for a VIN number stamped there ..."RD688SX" etc.....

its a TV show so they will build a flashy truck to suit the majority of the public to the "WOW factor" Regardless its a mack and its going to be shown with respect (hopefully!!!)

nice to see someone that takes pride in there equipment

I swapped out a cab on my B model project and the only diffrence I had was the removable floor pan had a diffrent hole cut in it for the gear levers. this was a "standard" B61 cab. Air ride would be neet but The butterfly hood would be a task to make it all work and not scratch the hell out of the paint. the radator would need stiffner braces that bolt to the frame rails, and a modified crossmember (rear cab brace) are just some of the issues I would see.

some people will unscrew the handel and put heater hose on the stick

The mack 5 and 6 speeds make long slow shifts if you dont use the clutch brake. If im heavy or on a Ramp I will short shift 1-2-3 (without help from the clutch brake)and then wind the hell out of 4th and stay there untill its flat ground. Most steep hills I pull I wont shift past 3rd. I can make it to the top of 3rd but trying for 4th is not going to get me there any faster and will just cause me to louse momentem. as far as the grinding. a little light pull on the stick is ok. You will feel a slight grind and as it slows it sould fall right in to gear. the old mack engines like to lug low 1100 -1200 rpm is where it makes its power. if it is not pulling out of that rage just stay there or downshift back to the next lower gear

Made a little headway last week working on the air system. I took a 24/24 can off a wrecked truck and it fits my B model with no interfearance issues. This chamber that i took off the wrecked truck is slightly smaller than the 24/24 that I bought from a truck parts store last year. I here people sometimes mention a "maxi can" So now I got a few question. 1) Are maxi chambers mfg for/by Mack? 2) Is a maxi any diffrent than a standard parking brake chamber? 3) do maxi have a smaller overall dia for fitment reasons Thanks Trent

correct me if im wrong but the exhaust header and intake runners on the 2 valve tip turbine have a diffrent bolt pattern than the E7s. If that is correct the headers and intake set up from a 2v will not bolt up to a 4v

My local mack dealer does not sell volvo and I hope they keep it that way. family owned and operated. how it should be. It seams more aperant every day that Volvo wants there name out front and let mack just sit in the background. If anyone in Macks upper management had a clue or passion for macks they would not force or allow this type of market strangel hold. Now tell them what you really think http://www.volvo.com/trucks/na/en-us/Appli.../Contact+Us.htm

Im intrested, you have a PM Trent

I see 4.17 rear cut offs on Ebay as cheep as $500 and up to $2000 most truck repair shops should have just the diff for $650 or so

I agree that a diffrent engine was drasticly needed. Im not happy that the MP sieres engines will share most of the parts from a company known to destroy Truck Mfgs (volvo). but The electronic E7 was gutless unlike the mechanical E7s. something had to change to servive. I will give the MP line a chance as I have heard good things about it. Regardless, to park new Volvos under a old Mack trucks Billboard is disrespectfull to the Founders,Employees,and Owners. !

Lund makes a visor for the B and R models. I belive there are 2 styles made for the R model? see if you can find a lund website with a catalog? .Or go to a car shop. I found a Lund catalog at a local car hop up shop that had a pic of the visors

Wile on topic whats the highest RPM for a E6 or E7 . Not talking factory specs, but what hotrodders or tractors pullers would let them spin to. Is the RPM limited to valve train restrictions or rotaitional mass of the crank and pistons? reason I ask is it sounds like the detroit diesel pulleing crowd winds there engines up pretty high.

Sorry to post such trash?