Lmackattack

Maximum overdrive R models,F models, B models and many other trucks Mad max III had that b model made to run the rails Good fellas B model

I would also say that the 2V and 4V maxidynes were Macks most reliable,easy to maintain and would run with the best of them. Not a huge power house when compaired to the larger displacement engines. but the maxidynes after almost 40 years can still perform just as good as these new engines.

Thats not an option as I dont have the manual lock switch for the dividers. My truck has the divider system that should operater automaticly when wheel slip is detected. I have done the tap the brake thing in the dirt and that did not make a diffrence, only one wheel would contnue to spin. Thanks Trent

I think that my power divider is getting tired The wheels dont all lock in at the dump when its soft or slick. I have noticed that my truck cant get throug the mud as good as some of the newer R models I drive. I think she is just worn out from almost a million miles. The truck got stuck last week and only one wheel was spinning. a gentle push from the Cat got me moving again but I dont think I should have needed that push if the divider was working properly. Does mack sell a kit to rebuild the divider? whats is the aprox cost for the parts or rebuild kit if availible? This is on a standard 4.17 ratio tandem axel drive Thanks Trent

Well were all pretty bias to macks here for obvious reasons. but when people compared the old macks to other older truck brands it was well know that Macks had the drive train for off road and HD applacations. there diffs were bullit proof, transmissions were basicly overbuilt for the HP of the day. Mack had many diffrent engine offerings for all types of jobs. You will find plenty of older petes and KWs with mack rear ends under them so that says something right there. In its day (likely still today) Macks main buisness was the construction field. they built the B and R models so well that they would basicly rust away before they mechanicly fell apart. the camel back rear springs have been used for the offroad from the 50s? aera(correct me if im wrong)and are still being installed on new macks today. And as many will tell you a mack would wear out 5 drivers before they wore it out. You could get a R or B to haul just about anything. single, double and triple frames were availible and axels spring ratings for extream weights that needed to be moved on or off the roads. the strength of a truck is all in the specs, a over the road single frame B,R,Superliner would not be as well suited as a truck specd with double rails for on/off road use. same goes with gearing and axels, springs etc... I dont think that the Macks today will last as long as the B and R models did but thats just the change in the trucking industry that mack has needed to stay in pace with. Mack was kinda an oddball mfg becase for the most part Mack only built there trucks with all mack componets. This had a good and bad effect. some people liked this others wanted to pick and chouse engines transmissons rears etc... Todays macks you can pick and chouse most of your drive train parts. I dont know if its good or bad but If I bought a new mack I would stick with an all mack drivetrain. just my .02

Im with H.K on this one. 72-73 was the chang over yers from the flat wall (old style) to the new cab. I want to say 85 or around there they changed to galvanized steel to reduce rust issues. not shure if im correct but most old cabs I saw had a small handel to enter the cab ware the larger cabs had that long handel. anyone notice that or am I seeing things again. Trent

2000 is a good price if the cab has little or no rust. the frame is good and the drive line is not beat to hell. Check the oil press at idle. look at the brakes to see if there adjusted. oil leaks. lots of those littel things will tell you if the truck was cared for. post some pics to give us a better idea of the condition shes in Trent

welcome to the site. Those CFs were indeed tuff trucks. Chicago still has some in the small districts. My small town still has one with a manual trans. Im shure that your retired CF will make some small town happy with that reliable old dog.

not something I would want to hit head on!! nice truck

I worked at UPS for 4 years back when I was in High school. I was told that the reasons none of the trucks or package cars had mfg names was that they did not want to show favortism or advertise another mfg name. I worked on a dock next to the maintence bays and back when the CH macks had handels in place of the dog some of the drivers would remove the handel and place the dog back on. Some drivers even bought and put the OEM lettering back on the truck disregarding company policys. If you look at some of the CH macks they likely have a dog or handel in its place but no "mack" lettering across the grill. The F and MH models at the time also had no dogs. Some of the new packagecars I think are freightliners chassies? I havent looked close but I did see a few stickers with the FL name on it. not shure who builds the bodies. Trent

nice pics matt~ noticed the nice looking valuliner in the background as well Trent

THIS ONE BARRY?

I used an R model lower box and plan to incorparate a B model cover to it. Trent

"I could bleed out the air already in them." IS THIS ON A B OR R MODEL? REMOVE THE HOSE FROM THE VALVE ON THE SEAT. IF AIR IS ESCAPING THE HOSE YOU HAVE AIR TO THE VALVE, THE VALVE MAY BE BAD. JUST FOLLOW THE LINE TO WHERE IT CONNECTS TO THE AIR SYSTEM. I HAVE NEVER HAD AN ISSUE SO CANT SAY WHERE THAT LINE GOES TO. SOME TRUCKS RUN THAT LINE BACK TO UNDER THE DASH WHERE THERE ARE AUX PORTS FOR ALL THE MISC AIR CONTROLS

Thanks for the kind words folks. I dont think im shy about my Hourly rates. I charge $75 an Hr for the dump truck and $85 for the lowboy. sometimes its per load if I can cut a good deal and get rid of it quickly. I "rent" both the trailers from my old boss and longtime friend.(he was the first to hire me when I was 21) sometimes I throw him some green other times I just move a machine or some truck loads of clay for him. It works out good for both of us. Im only plated for 73,280 so I cant haul large machines legaly. I work a 9-5 job so right now its just weekends,travel days that I get off from my M-F job and vacations. I know what you are saying about the job market. I see some guys charge cut throat rates, then pay for a driver/fuel and at the end of the day then dont have any cash left to put into the truck. its a shame I think im on par because if I get contracted out thru a friend I charge him $70 hr and he gets a $5hr cut for finding me the work. I dont mind do in that as it pays fine and it still keeps the marked steady for the next guy. what are the rates like up in WI? Thanks again Trent

well I finnaly bought commercial plates, insurance, and started a small company recently. Hope she will like to learn new tricks. here are a few pics of the dog at work.

Dave I think most of the active members here have followed your saga for the past 1-2 years. I feel your pain hope that engine is salvageable. keep us posted Lets see I was busy all this week replacing stuff I replaced a front drive shaft, and this new one has a real nice vibration. It needs to come out and balanced again replaced the old torq rods but one bolt is broken off and stuck in the trunion crosssmember(under 5th wheel) broke an antenna off from a low tree limb. the good news is I bought commercial plates recently and there paid for along with the parts that I have replaced. hope to stay in the black now for the rest of the season. knock on wood! Trent

Terry, I thought "GK" was for gliders???

RD600K? is it possibly a glider kit??? that would explain the small 237 engine in a new frame.

Nice pics packer! Bulldog : it looks like a small cab before the change over to the larger cab in 72-73. also the hood is not tall like the later RS was. I think the tall RS hoods came out during the change over in 72-73 as well Trent

are you welding the bungs to the end of the tank or on the sides? I had a welder friend of mine install both bungs on the sides for a cleaner look and to hide them. we welded a stiffner plate to the sides where the bung went thru to reduce the flex from road vibrations. let us know how it turns out

the tip turbine set up would seam almost as simple of a project as moving everything for an frontmount IC. The turbo may need to be clocked diffrently but other than that pretty much would be all bolt on. If it converted the engine to a true 285. Would the HP rating max out the cooling capasity of the small rad.??? Not shure when the rad support braces were changed but another thing I notice is that the air ride cabs(that I have seen) do not use the "X brace" that bolted to the cab. I had helped work on a mid 80s R that was built with a solid mount cab. We were converting it to an ride cab and removed the X brace. We bought the later style rad braces but they did not fit as the front shock absober mount was installed diffrently. we ended up making our own brackets.

that engine looks like an rebuilt early maxidyne... 237??? judgeing by the crossover pipe from the turbo to the intake (no intercooler or turbine charge cooler) The problem I see installing an intercooler on that truck is how the radiator is installed, most of the R models I have see with the IC had the radiator moved back a few inchecs to accept the thickness of the IC. This will effect the space allowed for the fan/belts etc... I think the IC cores are about 3 1/2 thick. if you have a spacer plate on the fan that can be removed to place the fan closer to the engine thats a good sign it may work?.however you will need to get diffrent pullys that are offset to accept a tighter fit? also if the truck has A/C or shutters that takes up even more fitment room. might have to sacrifice something? Trent

one thing I would recomend, as you are scratch buildng the system, is to add a 2 line wet kit. this would allow you to pull lowboys if you ever need to move one. something good to have and easy to install with all new parts.

I dont remember the min amount of hyd fluid I needed for short dumps but I think I was told 40-45 gal min? I added about 5-7 gals more because I used the large 126 gal pass side tank and was worried about it sucking dry if I was dumping on an incline. Most of the trucks here in the city use the pass side tank for hyd fluid regardless of the size. The tractors set up from the factory for a dump tractor would have a amall 50 gal pass wet tank and a 100-120 fuel gallon tank on the drivers side. my opinion is anyone trying to save weight would just use the pass side tank for hyd and have only 1 fuel tank. my 2nd B had a rectangel wet tank mounted behind the cab. it was pretty small but I guess it did the job with short trailers? never did use that tank but it was small! I have also seen many trucks have 2 fuel tanks of the same size and then the wet tank behind one of them, any choce is fine but I would rather use the frame rail space for something more usefull. on my RS I was able to put a 24" long tool box on the drivers side rail. Was a much better idea than a wet tank located there. Trent