Lmackattack

welcome to the site. many of us are train buffs (myself included) we would love to see that old DM and some old iron railway pics. Enjoy

the rear cab mounts are unbolted from inside the cab. look behind the rear seats for two 3/4"? bolts. the cab rests on rubber mounts simmilar to the front. The rear of the bam bolts to the frame crossmember or with a bracket that is welded to the crosmember. You may need a person below the truck to hold the nut wile you lousen the bolt. Trent

not shre if its an internal valve on your CH but my R model tanks have a valve screwed into the tank and looks to be removable.

I payed $50 for single set (with shipping) for a oldschool set found on ebay. then the next week bout another set for my B model If we can get more of these flaps at a good price I will take about 4 sets also. Could use some for the trailer I plan to buy. I would think the oldschool flaps would sell like hot cakes even on the new trucks. Lets show HQ how we want our macks "dressed" Trent

the dogs on the mirrors and mud flaps always face each other. I say we make this a law! I realy dont like the new style single color flaps with the dogs facing the same direction. Wonder whos great idea that was. The "Retro" white green and red flaps need to make a comeback! anyone remember the flaps that had the stars under the mack name? Trent

I heard the air start motors have 2 or 3 times the cranking HP than an electric motor. the down fall is that if it leaks down or you run out on a cold morning its a PITA to air up again (unless its near a large air supply.) In warm climates I could see there use more popular. up here in the cold winter months i know It would not work so well as sometimes it may take about 30 sec of intermitten cranking to get my old dog up if the circuit braker on my engine heater cord trips in the night.

great find and great story! have fun with it Trent

what barry said. Sometimes people will relocate them for ease of maintence. My gov was mounted to the compressor and was not easly reached. When I replaced my compressor I relocated it to the pass side fire wall

I have an air guage in my company truck and the guage reads the weight that is on the tractor tandems only. I gross about 65k with a 53' van trailer. The guage will read around 25-30. The gauge moves when the truck is shifting, stopping, starting etc...dont worry its normal. with no trailer I want to say the guage reads around 7k???

Well I shure hope they get hired back on in the next year if things pick up again. Its better to admit to the times then suprise the workers on a friday afternoon. its not good but you get my point. Last month a mack dealer in IA contacted my friend and offered to buy my friends R model that he had listed localy LOL. I guess they had a diehard R model owner looking for a solid reliable truck? Im noticing more and more "special" trucks on the road. it looks like westernstar has alot of the trucks used to pull railway maitence cars,looging, and oilfield trucks. I wonder why mack hasent stepped up to the plate for those markets. besides leading the garbage and mixer market it seams as mack has lost the intrest of the other specilty fields? trent

I dont know what caused mack to open up to useing offbreed components. In a way it was good idea as it was a way to get the people that liked to have offbreed drivetrain parts. What I think is sad is that mack started to release truck models that came standard with off breed parts. Even if the eaton ,fuller, etc parts were lighter or cheeper, I know for a fact that they just cant hold up in the offroad as good as the mack drivetrain. that right there makes them cost more when your replacing parts more often. to this day i still cant figure out why people want offbreed drivetrains in ther mack if the truck runs in the dirt 50% of its use? I think those off breed parts give us mack guys a bad name LOL

valid point about the new Macks replacing the old ones. The R still looks good but it is hard on you. Hell im only 27 years old but after a few long days driving the chicago streets in my RS I feel more like 72 LOL. After i saw a few "tricked out "Graintes they kinda grew on me. There are a few outfits here now that bought granite triaxel tractors for lowboy trucks. they have all the flashy stainless and chrome on them to compete with the KW and pete crowd. Hope these new granets can get some of the lost buisness back from the people who switched to kw's or pete's back about 10 years ago. I think the new cab designs with big HP coming next year will help mack maintain there name. Only time will tell i guess

Many macks came with the maxidynes came in diffrent HP ratings 237,285,300etc...5 speeds for the highway or 6 speed for the dirt. both were direct (1.-1. ratio) trainsmissions. A very common rear end ratio was 4.17 for the dirt and 3.87 for the highways my 6 speed direct with a 4.17 rear ratio gives me around 68MPH with 24.5 rubber. a higher rear ratio of 4.62 would lower my speed. I would say to around 58-60 mph with 4.62 If you are doing alot of off road moves the low gears are what you will need for soft ground. the 5 speed may have a to big of a first gear? if the eaton has lower ration it may be the better of your options. If I was you I would replace the engine with the 237, keep the 10 speed (if its an overdrive trans) and keep the rear ratio the same. less things to replace and it will give you good low gears and a good road speed. my 2nd option would be to replace the engine with the 237. itrade that 5 speed for a 6 speed mack and install the 4.25 rears. just my .02

Volvo

I have seen two near me. both were dark green and had the gold lettering. roll off trucks. Trent

I did the test where you lousen the line and listen for a change/no change in the engine note. when I lousened the lines to each cyl it would cut out that cyl. (normal) Im thinking the leak is where the injector meets the head? or something in that aera? the other thought is if the injector is faulty and I just cant tell from the note / vibration change when I crack the line?. I get the boost flutter as low as 3 psi all the way to 25 psi. the higher the boost psi the more the needle flutters. the vibration is not severe. it feels no diffrent from a tire that is not 100% balanced correctly. I did not get a chance to look at it tonight. maybee over this long weekend. thanks for all the tips! Trent

a wile back I replaced the turbo as I found the exhaust snail to be missing most of the inside center section. the new turbo puts out 25 psi and pulls like a dog should but a few weeks ago I noticed that the boost guage had a flutter in boost psi. Also noticed a little vibration. I cracked the fuel lines to see if it was traped air, no change. This week I noticed some fuel leaking around one of the injectors. it puddles in around the aera. im thinking its a bad injector but not shure. I have a few used injectors on a blown engine I can pull to replace with to see if thats the issue. besides taking the fuel feed and return lines / 2 bolts off the injector is there anything that needs to be removed before I pull it out. are there O rings to replace after the injector i sout. thanks trent

Hi Rob, thats who I called . I spoke with a Dave at aera diesel, he was the one who gave me the price of $312.68

Thanks Rob. I just called and got a price on a new one. Its a little steep $312.68

intresting. hope mack gets the big power soon. Even tho its a shared engine design with Volvo, its still better than nothing I guess hopefully it will help out with truck sales Trent

always like the scoops on R models. common on cab overs and garbage trucks but rare on conventionals I want one for my truck but I have the larger inlet on top of the air cleaner. Needs that extra air for the turbine fan. I have also seen a chrome metal one that is wide but not as tall. has a small mesh grill for the opening. Trent

regarding the rust around the window channels. thats the biggest issue for me. wiring and minor body damage is easy fix. My first B model had rust in the channels and when i removed the rubber windshield seal almost half the sheet metal came off with it. Im not a body may and cant affort to fix that kind of rust problems. the floors can be fixed with some simple thought and replacement sheets. ask Larry (Freightrain) as he replaced his floor a wile back and it turned out great. Mack offered Budd and dayton wheels. My 2nd B model I bought has budds all around. it can be swaped but you would need alot of parts. some people just swap in a complet rear clip diffs,axels,trunion brakes and all. its about the same price and same work involved. as for price i picked up my first B for 2K (overpriced) my 2nd B $500 (bargin) post some pics for a better idea. Trent

Looks like its Valentines day LOL Honestly barry I liked the blue and white skin better but thats just me. Regardless of my opinions im here for old mack talk and I like this site blue, red, yellow or pink Thanks again for keeping the site updated and going Trent

thats great new Rob glad its home. should make a intresting truck when your done. Hows the frame look. any repaired sections? my truck weighs in at 15,700 with the wet kit and half a tank of fuel. wonder what yours is with a cat and alum frame? post tose pics soon!!! Trent

If you are looking on a B model look behind the passenger side front wheel. the number should be on the frame rail just above the rear spring hanger. example B615LST32474 etc... use this number to find out what the truck was built with. the engine number should be near the timing cover aera seen from above the engine looking down(near the water pump) The rear end ratio numbers are stamped on the sloped part of the diff housings. R 5.73 etc... Transmission numbers I belive is on the drivers side of the box and will be stamped TRT, TRQ7220 etc....