Lmackattack

THATS A GOOD LOOKING TRUCK!!! nice details! Trent

Just for a cost compairison Just bought 4 recaps for my truck yesterday, Bandag brand a tubeless 24.5 was $140 each with no core exchange $110 with a core

HERE ARE THE PREFIXES COPIED FROM OLDMACKSRUS.COM http://www.oldmacksrus.com/production_numbers.htm S = SIX WHEELER X = EXTREAM SERVICE TRENT B - school bus chassis C - flat face cowl for the addition of a delivery body E - built for export F - fire truck chassis L - light weight or weight reduced by using aluminum components P - platform chassis (single axle straight truck) R - right hand drive. This designation was started in 1964 but right hand drive available prior as option. S - six wheel chassis (tandem axle) T - tractor chassis X - severe or extreme service chassis Combine any of the basic letters to get a different chassis PC - flat face cowl platform chassis LST - light weight six wheel tractor chassis SX - six wheel extreme service chassis STE - six wheel tractor chassis for export RX - right hand drive extreme service chassis These are some odd versions BD - school bus - no idea what the D means. Little more than 100 built 1955-1956 EWX - don’t have a clue on the letters but the picture shows a mean looking B83 built in 1965 with 3 drive axles SX-C - six wheel extreme service chassis, may have been built in Canada SX-M - six wheel extreme service chassis, no idea what M stands for T-HS - tractor, don’t know about HS T-M - tractor, don’t know about M TPB - tractor piggy back Now the fire truck combinations! The good guys at the Mack Museum and Harvey Eckart had to do some “head scratchin” on these CF - fire truck with Chrysler Corp. drive train FA - aerial ladder fire truck FC - fire truck chassis without fire body. This designation started in 1965 FCD - fire truck chassis with diesel engine without fire body FD - fire truck with diesel engine. This designation started in 1964 FMD - don’t have a clue. Only built in 1963 FSW - six wheel (tandem axle) fire truck. This designation started in 1958 for fire trucks but had been used in trucks prior to the B model series. FT - fire truck tractor. This designation started in 1965 but fire truck tractors were also built before this date.

Rob I had a simmilar problem with lost emails with a few online companys I get parts from. I now just pick up the phone and talk to a person to make shure I get what i need ordered. Im shure your emails just went to the "junk email folder" I search my junk folder once a week and find a question from a member on BMT or a email from the ATHS four etc.. some times I forget to look and get questiond again later. Barry has always called me back the same day or next morning if I called late in the day. I wouldent take it personaly. Just my .02 Trent

Thats exactly what Im thinking of doing, I will make a steel plate to offset the spring brake chambers and move it away from the inner rims. use the off set slacks and hopefully it will not interfear with the frame when the axels move upwards. Its on walking beam so I dot think its going to move much bob tailing around town Packer Thats the same goofy set up I have seen. Im shure it works just fine but it looks like a pain in the ass to fabracate. Im going to try the off set plates first

most of the B models I have seen with spring park brakes had them mounted on the frame rails or some goffy way that im not to fimmilar with. I did notice tonight that one of my spyders (foward axel) is about 1" farther away from the brake drum than the others on the truck? I will have to test fit a spring brake on that axel. Trent

Not of topic my friend, thats what the message board is for!!! funny you bring that up because thats how I like to shift the 6 spd if I ever need the low hole on the street. (i.e hill)makes the progressive shift RPMs closer and gets the truck rolling to a faster pase to grab direct in the aux box. Just wondered if there was a reason other than "close over laping" ratios. Trent

Ok my notes are from 5 years ago and I cant clearly read them as they have oil stains from that day LOL. I was able to cross refrence these numbers at the parts store and get my filters. If it does not help I will open up the filter top caps and see what number is stamped on them Fuel filter #, AC TP 532 Oil Filter #, 236GB311A or FP263E good luck Trent Blasco

type 24

I went out to my local truck repair store and bought the diffrent diameter cloth/steel braded/rubber hoses used on the engine from the factory. I then got the diffrent sized 2 pice swivel connectos. The ones you have to thread one part onto the hose and incert the other part to seal the assembly. simpe to do but they are pricy I just bought 15 feet of each size hose and 6 connectors each size for a good start to the weekend project. P.S I will look for the part numbers for the END711 filters tonight Trent

Ok next question Spring brake chambers. I bought one last friday to test fit and the parking brake chamber interfears with the rim. I need to move the intire chamber assy in towards the frame rail about 1 " the spyders on my B look like they were designed to mount a service chamber ONLY. I test fitted service chambers and they fit fine and will not rub the rim/tire. I see that there are off set slack adj availible so I hope I can fabricate a steel plate that bolts to the spyders holes but has a 1" offset for the holes that the chamber studs will locate. anyone have this issue mounting spring brakes on the foward rear axel

Hi George do your drop in filters have any numbers stamped on them? I was able to crossrefrence those numbers at my local Napa parts store and get the correct replacements. I have the oil and fuel filter #s written down at home. can check if you would like. I have the END711 Trent

Thad quick answer is yes some call it bob tail inshurance. but of course depending on the state you live in there may be diffrent hurdels to jump. I used a commercial insurance company when I bought and drove my R model from K.C. MO to Chicago. It was a 4-5 day permit for an agreed amount of coverage. I found the company searching the internet and made some calls untill I found someone willing to insure a bob tail tractor for a few days. took a wile but I found one.

I think it is a good from a safty stand point. The way these 4 wheelers like to tailgate and never give you room to back up Its hard to see if someone has stopped behind you, flat bed or van trailer. A good truck driver would get out and look to be shure whats behind him but I have not seen many "Good" drivers lately.

The weather was great with a good mix of trucks, some old cars and PU trucks. Batt went dead in the camera but here are some of the trucks there

All that was in the box was a alt a warrenty card and a plastic bag to keep her dry I called the maker of the alt and they explained how it gets wired up just an FYI the part number for the Lecce Nevile I bought is 110-444 it is a special promotion item that is selling cheeper. thats what the tech guy said ?? Trent

dont know much about the 250s so cant help there as I have little experince with thermodynes. I was pretty suprised with the economy of the 300 maxidyne. The over the road MPG its damm good if you ask me. Most of the mack dump trucks I drive are in the city of chicago and they get around 5.6 MPG loaded or empty

thanks for the part number rick. I bought the alt from my mack dealer on sat installed the pully and all looks good so far. I am also going to use the gen mount bracket and use a pipe spacer to keep the alt from bouncing around. I will also need to get a set of shorter belts as the alt is trying to hang off the engine to far with the genarator belts. simple fixes but lots of running around. one other Question I see the positive post that goes to the batt cables ground post to the frame rails then there are 2 posts and Im not exactly shure what they do. what would I hook those posts to???

Hi Kevin I agree with rsmartyn. Those older diesels are great on fuel economy. be carefull as adding to much fuel will lower mpgs and may cause high EGTs. If you do mess with the fuel screw I would get an EGT guage to make shure you dont get to melting pistons. I have the 283 tip turbine and with a few twists of the fuel screw It makes the EGTs get pretty high at the end of 5th gear On a med pull I might have to let up some times..However here in the flats of the midwest It shure does pull good and can keep up with a 300 maxidyne at the same gross weight. Part of the problem with my 283 and the smaller maxidines is that the intercooling/charg cooling (if equipped) is not the most effective. The IC is just part of the issue but it does play an important part in temps. The 237 has no IC and that may render your adding extra fuel. just be carefull what ever you decide. My friends day cab R model 300 maxidyne with a 9 speed got around 6.1 mpg hauling mail from Chicago to NY and 6.5 MPG hauling an empty trailer from NY back to Chicago pretty good economy if you ask me.

I went to my mack dealer tonight and the parts guy found the same alt that I borrowed from the yard. Its a leece neville. They have a sale on them this month for $140. + tax. that sounds like a good deal to me?. I can make it bolt up easy to the gen bracket so I think I will be going back to buy it tomorrow morning. I can get a smaller pully if need be from a local rebuilder so we will see if it works right? for refrence the local electric repair shop wanted to charge 200 for a "new rebuilt" altanator. Trent

you will pick up a few mph up top but it will also make the low gear taller. most of the 9 speeds I have driven had between 4.64 - 5.02 rears. on 11r22.5 tires. all were great in the mud but I do remember having to realy use that low gear some times. I know 4.17s will work but it makes the truck more of a highway cruiser. from my experince I can easly tell the diffrence if the truck had 4.64 rears or 5,02s. cant give much input on the tire dia diffrences as I have not driven many dirt trucks with tall 24.5 tires

a 9 speed low low gear is 10.69 I think there is a "B" version with a lower ratio but most 9 speeds I have seen had the 10.69 ratio. with 4.17s and low pro 24.5 you will have a ok low gear but not as deep as a 2 stick 6 speed. I have a 9 speed waiting to be rebuilt and will be installing it in my mack with 4.17 rears. It should be fine for most applacations but it wont be the best in the deep mud. I chose the 9 speed for the OD gearing and the extra gears in between. I want to use all of my maxidynes power just my .02

thanks for the tip. I test fitted a altanator out of a junk R model tonight and it looks like it may work for me. I just hope they can get a part number off of it? It looks like I will be able to make a long bolt and get a pipe spacer like you said you made. I will have to see if the pully is the right size for the applacation. this alt has a 2 slot pully that looks identical to the old genarator. if all goes well It should work. this was 2 easy so far LOL.. knock on wood Trent

I have changed over to 12v system but need still to install a Altanator. I know Larry and Rick Harper talked about a difftent bracket or a fabricated pice to align the pullys. that seams easy to fabricate but what I would like to know is if I can use a altanator from a R model. tipical story at the dealer. they need a vin # ,part number, or a old altanator to compare. My B model Vin # wont work as it had a genarator. any tips? Thanks Trent

never driven one but my garbage man says besides the terrible ride the truck has been great. its just a local HD delevery truck in my opinion. Garbage, spotter intercity etc.. I would not want to drive one over the road for long trips. I dont wear my seat belt in a rig and I think I would have a broken neck from hitting the top of the cab in one of those LOL. they are fast and versitile but just not something I would want to own for a toy. I would however get one for company use for landscaping or a small busness thats where they would make money