Lmackattack

Hello Scott I just found the pics of your RS700,Sharp looking paint job. It will look real good after you fresh it up with some new paint and chrome. You will be happy after you get it up and running. My truck looked in compareable condition to yours when I got her home. took me many of nights working on it to get it looking good but I get many people that tell me how it was the nicest mack back in the day, Even got a few offers to buy her, and busness cards incase I ever want to sell her. I was just over at the yard where those 2 RS700s with the V8s under the hood. they had 2 stick 6 speeds. Tony,the owner said they were great lowboy trucks,fastest trucks here in chicago back in the day, but the engines were tempermental, he opend the door on both trucks and the engine repair info was written on the door jams. rod bearings at 150,xxx, main barings at etc.... he has a few VERY low milage C model macks in the garage...on jack stands!!!! and a few R models on jack stands... less than 100k on those also...he has not bought another truck sence 87 because the r models were bullit proof if you took care of them. Thanks for the pics Trent

DROOL!!!!! thats the one thing my truck is missing..... a V8 he has done a great job keeping his aluminum shiny.

good move Barry! what other names did he use???

to far for me but I would love to do a truck pull again!!!! get some pics

im in the same boat but going the other way LOL I just added oil to my END711 and after about 5 gallons and the dip stic says I have a little to much????. I filled the lube finder with about a gallon but have not cranked over the engine to "prime" the system. so hopefully I get it back down to the correct level

I only lost $150 from him. hope knowone gets scamed 1k+

to each his own Dale... but I like this format as your options are great.. the old board limited your options and there was no search function. As far as people posting topics or replys you are wrong about less peopl using this board..infact more people are posting and replying. The old board you were lucky to get 2-3 a day..now we are getting 5-8 per day. Besides just because we have only thing I dont like is that you are limited to posting pics. on a side note. I think Barry has done a great job setting up a place for us to talk about Mack stuff. We use this board for all sorts of truck stuff and Im glad he made this availible to us Thanks Barry!!

welcome to the board Mike. Good luck with finding your truck....so many to chouse from Trent

some of the old timers here will know the ins and outs of the older V8s from what I have heard was that the older V8s sometimes had problems...if yours made it to 1994 I would say you have a good one!!! I have a friend with (2) sister 1977 RS700Ls and both engines needed rod bearings around 150k. He said they were almost as fast loaded as empty...LOL but the engine was its strong and weak point. In my opinion the RS700Ls is the cadillac of the R models.. post some pics I would love to see yours Trent

hello neil welcome to the site Call the mack museum and give them your vin number. in return you will get a build sheet and some othe info on the truck. I sent a small donation for there time and was rewarded with a 2 1/2 think manual on mack engines and transmissions ,cab body etc.... good luck

I always wondered the same thing...why truck MFG let the wire ends live in the exposed weather conditions. even the R models have the main cab junction block on the fire wall ON THE OUTSIDE!!!!??? However I am suprized how long they last! My B model had lots of spliced wires but the ends were fine. the only problem I found on the ends were when I tried to remove them from the studs..and the studs were correded or just would spinn in the jct block. They make a junction block with a rubber grommet and a cover with a rubber seal. I saw one on the internet for hot rodders and want to get a few for both the R and B model

I will soon be adding all new lines,valves,chambers...everything whats the best way to chouse the needed parts? I was thinking that I could use my R model as a template and just copy that air set up to keep both my trucks the same setup??? I have looked at the bendix web site and that gives me a good clue. how have others done it?? Thanks Trent

I have heard of some people getting hurt or killed fighting with people that are driveing off and not paying for gas!!! its sad that this is possible. If I hear one more tree hugger complain about why we cant build a refinery im going to need a new bumper !!!! J/K

Lowest found in Chicago aera Diesel....2.75 reg unleaded......2.75 Highest Diesel....3.69 reg unleaded.......3.69

sounds like a plan dave. thats how I got all the fuel out of the tanks when I removed them. Worked pretty good then. I will have a friend help me get her going. The hardest part is trying to do everything on your own. I filled her up with all the fluids tonight and mounted the fuel tank brackets. i pick up the 12v starter friday and might get her cranked over this weekend?? That is if i can PAY FOR FUEL!!!! LOL

good to hear Andy get some pics for us when she gets home! I live in a town home and cant keep my 2 trucks in the driveway. luckly my part time job is only 3 miles from me and I keep both rigs there for "free"in exchange for a a few day/nights work each month

the puff limiter, as recently explained, to me simply delays the fuel flow to the injectors to allow the turbo spool up. with it removed when you mash the peadal it opens the rack 100% dumping excess fuel that does not get fully used as the turbo is not spooling.. To pass emissions I would hook up the puff limiter and see if that helps. if thats still not enough, set the engine kill cable to where the truck will run but cant flow 100% fuel.... last time I took a truck to an emission test(2 years ago?) we did this just incase it would not pass LOL... you can still get 2100RPM with no load.. after you pass re adjust the engine stop and you will be ok....that if they dont check the linkages just a FYI a mack mech told me the driving the truck with no puff limiter can cause the fuel to wash the oil off the cyl walls causing extra wear and it also will mix into the oil. smoke is cool..... but dont F up the engine over it Good luck Trent

larry do you still have the drag pics from the old board? I think thats where I saw them last??? Trent

i have seen many B,swith air ride seats not shure what model they were? However I would think the steering wheel would hit your legs if it raised to high going over a harsh bump??you may need straps to keep the seat from extending to far??I know my legs could hit the wheel bouncing in the stock seat.

the fuel tank will go on very soon and I want to start the engine as its been a long time sence its been ran. is it better for me to use a temp gallon jug filled with fuel held above the fuel filter to let gravity help prime the system? all the lines filter and pump are pretty dry or have old diesel in them and I am figuring trying to suck it up from the fuel tank will be hard on the starter if. there is a little hand primer pump on the feed line but it seams stuck as it likely was never used??? do I need to crack the injector lines also?? I figure i will to get all the air out?? any help will be great Trent

try now????? I suck at the internet LOL I just tried at home and it is working. its just a silly vid of my truck belching black smoke here is a pic

Hello Dale not shure if I will need a diagram I soon will be making new harnesses for the B model. looks like it is just time consuming. did the diagram help you or did it basicly tell you what you already know? Trent

video I figured I would have a little fun on sunday. I was cleaning up the dash a little and adding some switches for the light bar and back up lights. I was pulling some cut air lines and wires and got a "great" idea...I unhoked the air line to puff limiter from the dash valve and re routed it thru a unused air switch located on the dash. now I can do a smoke show and pass emissions at the flick of a switch video here video yes.... im a little nuts Trent

I finnaly scraped off the grease off a spare gear box i have I figured it was a 7220 but under the dirt was 7210. what is the 10 stand for

I just removed one from a wrecked R model last month the top of the cab was bent up badly and it came out with no tools. I simply just pulled if free from the rubber weather strip. I cant remember if it had a lock strip in the middle. if it does it will be a pice of cake to remove/install. trent