Lmackattack

Verry cool Barry

the B cabs are always a rust issue. my first B model had "for sale" signs for a floor boards.. you know the ones made from steel a little thinker than pop cans LOL. the rest of the cab "looked" ok but when i started to remove the window rubbers all hell broke louse. I would try to save the cab if its reasonable, but if its not look for one in better shape. If you live out west near CA I know a guy that has a great cab. You can only save so much before its unrepairable. Larry i was just looking at your floor pics on the old BMT site last week I will have to see if they are still there!!! I was looking for the door hinge placement.LOL Trent

good find there and the price is not to bad for a Magnum. figures it ended up as a dump truck most old macks do. I found my RS700L only a year after it was used in demolition, Luckly it was not beat up. Trent

correct me if im wrong ...to add piston coolers to the END673 you could "simply" tap into the oil gally??? I heard that from someone that added a turbo to there non turbo 673 trent

No prob glad I could help. that truck would look great with new wood flooring. if you get more pics I will be happy to post them Trent

http://www.milbestlight.com/swf/game/game1.swf

if its not a bother to you it may help ???? I might stop over at the mack dealer tomorrow and check out there B I will let you know if I get over there. Thanks for the offer Trent

I finnialy got back working on the B model tonight and I am having a fitment issue with the doors. It seams as if the top lines up the bottom wont and vice versa. If I center it then it interfears with the cowl aera between the door and cab. When I move it back the door wont shut as the inside of the door rubbs the cab wall (striker plate wall) one thing i was thinking is the hindges are installed incorrect? is there a specific way to install hindges?? right now the upper hindges have the "notch" removed to help guide the door on to the hindge any help is thankfull trent

not shure??? did the trucks have air ride? maybee the air bags were down???

I was on I-294 yesterday and I saw a gold/oarnge/champane color Mack R700 or RS700L. it did not have the tall hood so it may be a pre 1972 RS model?? I think it was pulling a flat bed with a tarped load? i was to busy staring at the tractor. nice big sleeper on the back. lots of tastfull chrome from its era, polished wheels and tanks. On the side of the sleeper it was painted "Caddilac Mack" anyone ever see this Rig??

im shure you could swap the injectors and pump etc... but the pistons bore stroke may be diffrent? not shure. that U model looks real good for $2500 .Not much room for the dog in the passenger foot well... LOL

with tires or without?? I could weigh my old style b model camelback at the yard if our scale still works?? it has the 5 spoke style less rims and tires. I have heard air ride is less weight, not shure if its true???

Here is your truck pic. good find !!!!

sounds like a project on your hands..LOL if the 237 has a oldstyle luberfinder setup you could simply remove the oil lines and filter assy from the block and get the spin on filter adapter that bolts to the pass side of the engine. then you could use the easy 2 spin on filters fram what I have heard with people installing 237s in b models is that the 237s pully on the water pump extend farther out than the thrmodynes engines, you may only need to replace the pullys ??? as far as the rear engine mounts its a loss to what would work. hopefully a diffrent bell housing will solve the trans/engine connection. I cant remember if the rear mounts are on the bell housing or trans??? so cant give a suggestion there let us know what works. I have some R model frame mounts on a scrap truck in the yard. If you need then i will pull them off for you no charge but shipping trent

try again

welcome to the board John. Im no veteran as im only 26 but I do have a long family history of owning macks. and you are correct tip turbines do sound cool pulling a load. as a kid I thought they were twin turbos... LOL Lots of R models are becomeing fairly cheep to buy so just keep your eyes open on ebay and truckpaper.com. thats where I found my current truck. A tandem axel would be best in my opinion, that way you can basicly pull what ever you want. A short WB is great for the city but I always liked the med stretched frame as it will ride a little better and have room for tool boxes and other goodies. just dont be in a hurry I made that mistake with my first truck and later found all sorts of major problems. take your time and ask lots of questions here is a pic of my mack with your favioret 285 Tip Turbine. trent

Sounds like the frame and hood are from diffrent trucks?? If its a R700 you will have a longer hood than the standard R600 models. If the frame says what you say then i would stick with that serial number as what the truck is. You can contact the mack museum and see if they have the build sheet. send a small donation and you will get lots of info an what the truck was equiped with from the factory. I would guess they just added a long hood at some time for personal prefrence ??? look to see if the cab mounts have been moved that would be a clear giviway as the 700 model cab sits about a foot further back. look at the gear shifters to see where the hole in the floor is for them to come thru. My RS700 has the hole near the firewall where the R600s will have the hole closer in the middle of the floor. if you find a patch or the hole is in the middle this might give you another clue that this truck started out as a R685 with a standard hood.? Someone could give you more info about your +/- ground issues. I belive you simply reverse the wires on the dash guages, and swith the wires on the batt???but dont quoit me...... look at the pumpkins. most mack rears you pull the diffs upward. other mfg like to place them side ways. the mack side covers may or may not have mack script on them...depending on the year of the truck. the ID plate on a Mack rear will be on the top.passenger side on the slanted plate. it should read something CRD92/93 and below that it will have a ratio..i.e 4.17 hope this helps

congrats on the new dog you found... you will have lots of fun restoring it Email me the pic and I will try to post it for you Lmackattack@hotmail.com Trent

Mike I just got word that you will not be going???whats the deal!!!! you must be a real good spotter if they wont let you have sundays off!!! i will post some pics of the event tomorrow for ya

thanks again for the help Dave and Nigel I will just replace the stock breather with a new one as I found a check valve in it thats exactly what I want Dave. my first gig driving a dump truck had this set up. I cant remember if you had to push the clutch in to engauge the PTO but I remember not having to be in gear to raise the dump body . It was great when delivering stone or dirt at someones resident where thay always ask to have it spread out to help them shovel less. The side mount was always fine when you just droped the load and thats that but your right 1st and 2nd was way to low to get the pto speed and 3rd is to hard onthe truck/clutch when spreading. when you say the shaft runs thru the trans. is this easly installed or does the trans need to be removed. I will ask my local PTO supply shop about this style setup. Regards trent

Some day when I have some time driving to a race I will have to stop over and get some pics off those old dogs. whats the story with them??? are they all trade ins LOL...

I will check for that Dave. My truck currently has a 2 stick 6 speed, its not the factory installed trans, the build sheet says it came with a single stick 5 spd. I spoke with the 2nd owner of this truck recently and he said he had the 6 speed installed. hopefully the 6spd will have the gear as it was common in dump trucks???

ok I will look into the married units. I am welding threaded bungs to the pass side fuel tank this weekend. I will wait to order new lines after I chouse the Pto/pump set up. I like the filter idea as it will keep any dirt out of the tank. I was going to add a 3rd tank for hyd use but the limited space between the rear wheels and current duel 120 gal tanks is making me think about using that space for tool boxes or something more usefull. what about a breather? will the stock fuel tank breather be to small?? thanks for the advice Trent

Ha Ha.

what replaced the b model then??? Trent