Lmackattack

Yep. I understand now that you guys explained it clear for me. I was mistakenly adjusting 2 holes every 120* of rotation. When I saw the 1-6 2-5 3-4 I thought I was to adjust both holes together. But I think i understand now. Adjust tdc cyl1 (compression stroke) rotate 120deg and only adjust cyl 5 rotate 120deg and only adjust cyl 3 rotate 120deg and only adjust cyl 6 rotate 120deg and only adjust cyl 2 rotate 120deg and only adjust cyl 4

Yep. Glad I asked I knew I missed something. I could hear the ticking

Yes the damper is as seen in the photo.

Ok that helps explain it better. I only did 1 full rotation as i was adjusting. I put 1 on tdc in the compression stroke. Adjusted 1-6,rotated 120* then did 5-3, rotated 120* to do 3-4. Guess I have to redo it again. Thanks for the help

Can someone confirm if I adjusted the valves right. I think I may have miss understood the process. And I have never done a valve adjustment before. I rotated the engine till the pointer was on the TDC mark of the damper with #1 on the compression stroke. I adjusted cylinders#1 And #6 at the same time. Then rotated normal engine rotation direction 120* to the next tic mark on the damper labeled cyl 5-2 and adjusted them both Then rotated another 120* to adjust cyl 3-4 and adjusted them both. I rotated the engine 3 or 4 full rotations by hand to make sure no valve interference then started the truck and it runs fine but definitely seams to have more rocker ticking noise. Where did I go wrong🙃

Not sure. It looks very similar to mine but not sure if the cummins have different fan mounting bolt spacing.

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I'd assume you could put a mechanical fan clutch on the 290. My 77' maxidyne had a fan mounted directly to the pully. I was able to put a fan clutch on with no other modifications. It greatly reduces noise and gives you about 10hp back to drive the wheels

I was nervous, I'm not going to lie! Hopefully button it up after a valve adjustment and new valve cover gaskets

https://youtu.be/ZXFH3xLgHtM?si=ZVOMdnOkcFqnAi1L

Weather finally let up from the heat wave we have been dealing with. 67 degrees all morning so I jumped on getting the heads back on. Barely broke a sweat working outside until 2pm. You can see the carbon build up on the 2 studs that was not allowing the heads to come off. I spend 2 hrs removing the stuck nuts from about 30 studs then wire brushed all the studs and threaded holes. Ran a tap thru them to clean them out and was able to put the studs in with just my fingers. Scrubbed all the old gasket material off the mating surfaces, Pressure washed the heads put New head gaskets on with new fire rings. Was able to set both heads on as an assembly just how i had removed them with absolutely no trouble. One thing I noticed with this job is when I had removed the head studs/nuts all but a few came out with just a hand held 1' long 1/2" ratchet. They took no where near the effort of 175ft lbs to remove them. Today I used a 3' long torque wrench and it was pretty obvious the old gaskets were not held down as tightly. I suspect the old gasket was just soft with age or someone did not torque them properly. My book says to check them again after 1 hour of under load time.

I didn't get a chance to get pics today. But the heas gaskets with fire rings are on the way. Hope to button it up over the weekend.

Thank you. That's what I figured. My book made no mention of that they were all stamped the same

300+ made 1050ftlbs where the endt676 maxidyne makes 1080ftlbs. Both are tipturbine engines

I think the concept of the 315 (300+) was a great option for those who did not like the maxidyne with only 5 speeds. I the maxidyne made slightly more overall torque than the 315 but the 315s had more hp and their max torque more in the mid rpm range. The few 315s I drove seamed to pull better in the hills. And yes I was always surprised when a new diesel just needed a little reprogram to get +50hp. It goes against everything we learned on mechanicals.

I think that is correct. What's odd is the 285 tipturbine is a maxidyne where the 315(300+) was still considered a thermodyne. These 2 valves were pretty bullet proof and easy to work on

I'll get a better picture of it tomorrow. I got done with work around 4. And spent the next hour, pulling the heads off before i had to head home. I didn't feel anything but I also don't have a lot of experience with engine internals.

No clue. I could not feel it with my fingernail. I'll get a better Pic of it.

Yes sir. ITS A 283HP ENDT676

No way I could pull this assembly up by hand !!! I had a service crane with 4 chains to keep it level.

Hope not. Liners were very smooth so she probably needs new rings and a cross hatch. At that point might as well inframe it. I'm not sure if it's ever been rebuilt. Pistons looked very clean for it's age. No carbon build up on them or heads. What is the 542c stamp on the piston telling us.?

Thanks for the help everyone I was able to double nut the one stuck stud and wound it out. It was really gummed up. Had to wind the stud up and down with penetrant oil to get it pulled ot out all the others cam out with my fingers. With all the studs removed the Heads came off like butter as an assembly. I had all the studs removed but still sitting in their holes as I was trying to keep them in order as I'm doing this job outside and have limited work space. But That's another story. Yes i saw the tips, I sat the heads on a few boards as to not crush the injector tips. I'm just slapping a new head gasket on and going. Hopefully it's not a cracked liner and I'll be back up and running after I get the replacement head gaskets end of this week.

I can't with the factory nuts as it has a deep shoulder below the hex and very little thread is exposed when tight I can probably double nut it if I force the head back down to expose more threads and then grind down a nut and thread it on first. I'm going to tinker with it some more tomorrow after the rain clears. I just wanted to make sure I'm not missing something as it's been 10 years since I last pulled a head on a 2v

Just saw this. That's too bad he was one of the original members. A wealth of info. Rip sir

I'm trying to pull both heads off to do head gaskets. And one of the studs I think is carbon seized in the head. The heads came up off the block about 1/2" but to get that it needed lots of prying on the front head. The rear head is moving freely. it's just the front head and a middle stud that won't wiggle at all. I'm about to weld a nut to the stud just to see if I can remove the stud itself. Am I missing something here or is it likely what I'm thinking with a carbon build up siezed stud? Any tricks to try before I weld the nut to the stud? I did pull all hoses,the tip turbine bracket with 3 head studs under it. All studs are free or nuts came off the studs. It's just one stud that lookes like a tight fit and when I pry the head will not move up around it.