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Lmackattack
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Everything posted by Lmackattack
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Most block heaters were installed in the freeze plug on the drivers side. Early block heater plugs were just hanging down near the battery box. Later they moved them to the headlight panel. If the old heater went out they may have put a pad on it similar to a pan heater? -
Don't you love those 20 year projects.... Looking good and that's pretty quick
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Don't forget to hold it At full throttle when cranking with the injector line cracked open. This will help suck up the fuel faster.
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Superliner Smokes the Paccar!
Lmackattack replied to umodelnut's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Those old dogs move out! -
New OLD Mudflaps
Lmackattack replied to rsb502's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
There was a guy on eBay making some old logo flaps in white or black. I bought some 2 Yeats ago and they look great. Will have to search for the guy again. -
Ok let me try... Early r 600 models had a small cab (metal dash) and short hood, in 73' they went to the +3 cab giving more rear room. I think in the mid to late 70's when the 300 came out the hood was stretched about 2" to help make room for the inter cooler. The new cabs will bolt on to just about any frame but check the hood size and rear cab mount locations.
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It all depends on what your doing with the truck. My 285 in the dirt loaded I can drop the clutch and it will walk away easy my 550 cat will stall out unless I give it some throttle. Put both trucks on the Hi way and that cat runs down just about anything. As far as super liners. E9 for obvious power reasons but expensive to repair. for simple power and cheap a big cam cummins is a A lot of motor with good value. Cat 3406 make a lot oh high rpm power but also pricy to maintain. If you want big hp and not brake the bank it's cummins. If power and cool factor e9 or cat...
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Superliner Smokes the Paccar!
Lmackattack replied to umodelnut's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
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Superliner Smokes the Paccar!
Lmackattack replied to umodelnut's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
I like the one with the v8 R700 doing the wheel stand in 1st then a quick lift in 2nd -
Welcome to the site. Sounds like your dad had some nice trucks. Someone on here was just looking for a c model
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1974 RD685 Dump. Please help with frame and jake issues
Lmackattack replied to nedly05's topic in Engine and Transmission
Just my.02 I think you could sell that steel nose and find a early to mid 80s rd in better shape,more HP and and still be ahead. I don't know how heavy you run but a bad frame that goes un fixed can cost you more to fix it than just buying a good used truck. If that putter rail is cracked,frame spreading, you might be chasing issues after every season. The double rail trucks were well known for these issues. -
Need a sending unit for my gauges. Here is the oil temp gauge with its part number. Hope soneone can cross refrence it to the correct sending unit for it to read correct.
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Here is the united pacific part number
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Clunk every 3 seconds at 65 MPH...
Lmackattack replied to unclebilly's topic in Driveline and Suspension
Might want to have someone follow you in a car and have them pay attention to any sounds from the rear end and transmission. But a clunk every 5 seconds seams like a big interval for a broken tooth on a gear. I would suspect at 30 mph it would be more like every 2 seconds the broken tooth on a gear would come back around. -
Pm me your email and I can hopefully sed it that way. This stupid I pad won't save the PDF and my phone won't upload the file. I was able to email it to myself and hopefully I can just forward you the file from my email,via my phone...if that don't work I may have to draw it put a stamp on it and mail it to you lol!,,,
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Hmmm....ok i had tried to link it from my iPad...let me try again...
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Brad maybe we can trade? Call me if your interested...
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http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_id=9431 Can you view this?
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Ok found the diagram but it was sent to me as a message. I will have to download it on my home computer and reload it in a post. Will do that tomorrow when I get back in front of my computer. I'm on my I pad right now...anyways I was correct in saying the signal wires all went to a firewall junction block. The gauge ground and power wires come from a behind the dash soirce then just jump from one to the next. Rear diffs showed a ground wire from the diff to the frame. will have the exploded view for you soon!
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Let me look for a post on here. I think someone had sent me a wireing diagram last year from a super liner that had axel temp gauges.... If I recall the signal wires all went from the dash to a junction block on the cab firewall and then on to their specific component. the power came from a source behind the dash and just jumped to each gauge. will look when I get off work today.
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If your loaded, 1-2-3 are real quick and can be short shifted. wind out 4th to about 2000 then shift. it falls back to about 1250 and the boost comes up a little quicker and goes back to work for ya.
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The old maxidyne with 5 speeds I always ran them up to 1800 for easy shifts on the hiway or 2100 when racing my buddies. Once you learn the truck you should be able to shift smooth. I will admit that the lower the rpm the smoother the shift is. And the clutch is for starting only! Play the stop lights right and you will need it only half as much as you normaly would.
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The only thing that is hooked to a lite is the air press and oil press ...if it drops to far the light and buzzer go off. 2 things I feel I need to know about right away.
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Let me think.. Boost,pyro,air restriction,fuel,rear axel temp,forward axel temp,trans oil temp,engine oil temp,air press,oil press,volt,water temp,tach and speedo.
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Found it...united pacific.... http://www.uapac.com/trucks/interior-products/dash-accessories/gauge-accessories.html http://www.uapac.com/trucks/interior-products/dash-accessories/gauge-accessories/gauge-cover-without-visor-speed-tachometer.html You may want to call the chrome depot in Ohio and double check that these are the correct sizes. If I remember the Mack gauges we're the same as the older Pete/kw .....regardless a little silicone will help make them stick.
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