Lmackattack

the time and cost to fix that you would be better off to get a good used cab that was heading to scrap.

for ease of power upgrades... stock 285 or a 2v 300 with a tip turbine added. both will fit with front pully swaps . 237s will also work but the added cooling of a charge cooler will do a little better. We pull with a 72 R model and have a 285/6 speed. does pretty good with just a wide open pump. Search "Last Call Mack" on you tube

Rob I think Thats correct with the introduction of the 300HP maxidyne. the hoods also were a few inches longer to help fit the front mount intercooler

intresting...I thought only the 300+ had water and air charge??? I just picked up a air and water box for my 285. just to have as a spare.

Correct me if im wrong... all the 285 tip turbines were only charge air intercooled all 300+ tip turbines were charge air and water intercooled I seam to only see the combo air/water intercooled set up on just the 300+ engines? anyone the EK truck looks to e a 285 as it lacks the water lines and water intercooler on the box. trent

Sorry "mate" LOL I I was noting the Starboard side of the engine...you know the side the Turbo hangs from if its a 6 speed you only can get 6 progressive up shifts. the 6 speed is just a basic 5 speed but it gives you that one extra low low gear. You can start in 1st low "L" and shift all the way up into 5th then split it into direct "D". doesent matter where you make the split from L into D but you only have 6 forward speeds. on the older 2 stick 6 speeds I Often I started out with Low, up shift 1-2-3 then split into 3rd Direct then continued the upshift 4th-5th (total of 6 speeds) reason for this is many times when you use low 1st you had to stay in that gear untill you reached hard level ground. if not when you tried to make the split you were just going to slow and the truck stopped before you can grab the next higher gear. there was also 12 speed that was real nice. most times you drive it like it was a 6 speed but you could split each gear giving you a total of 12 speeds. the top gears were over drive and the bottom were very slow. it was the perfect trans for macks that ran the on/off roads. you have a good rear mount PTO! it runs off the front box so it turns off engine RPM so long as the clutch is engaged. the side mount pto ran off the transmission gearing and you had to put the aux in nutral and main in 1st or 2nd to properly operate it at a safe speed.

if the injectors heads can be seen from the passenger side its a 2V If you can only see where the fuel lines enter at the side of the heads its a 4V are you sure its a 10 speed? Many of those were just 6 speeds. But as said it could be a 7-8 or 12 speed as well. You use low "L" just in 1st and then split it into direct "D" then shift 2-3-4-5 giving you 6 total forward gears and 5 reverse gears. IIRC there were the standard 6 and 8 bolt pto mounts on the 6 speed case. many also had the option for Macks rear mount PTO that ran off the lower contershaft via a splined coupling.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/cto/2859402415.html

COOL PROJECT TRUCK BUT NOT A FAN OF THE SMALL CAB...

The 2090s I have driven were just fine for on/off road flat land dumping and such but if it was used on site in the muck or hauling 90K in the soft clay I always thought it needed a lower gear. Thats why I liked the low low that the 6 and 12 speeds had and more reverse gears!. To me if the truck is to be used off road at all you need that extream low gear for the times that they sink in the clay. Also there were 2 versions of the 2090 if I recall right... I think there was one built with a lower 1st gear intended for more off road use...Would have to check My 9 speed book manual to be 100% sure oin that....

I may be wrong but I thought the main springs on the 38K-44K were thicker than the 34K main springs? this may be an issue when trying to bolt the caps back on?

If I recal a 9 speed with 4.17 will be too fast in the mud. I think the 9 speed has a much taller gearing as it was intended to be used with slower rear ends. The idea was to have a fast drive line speed and reduce stress on the gears. this was good and bad..good because it was not as harsh on the gears but bad because the over drive gearing of the transmisson caused more roatinal mass and thus you need more HP to keep it going in the top gears. most of the trucks I drove with the 9 speed that were built for the mud had 5.02 or slower. the 12 speed will do everthing you will ever want. 4.17 was a common gearing with the 12 because it was very slow in both forward and reverse and you still had a good top overdrive gear to get home.

looks like 2 valve head enjectors used from about the early 70s to early 80s

alot of superliners had the reyco. not a fan but they were lighter than camelbacks. 3.73 are too fast for a dump truck I was going to change to 3.87 with my 6 speed direct to get a faster top end but just stuck with the stock 4.17s and will await a 12 speed for both a faster top gear and slower low/reverse.....

took mine around the block at lunch time today. 57 deg in the middle of Chicago winter????

On my B model the aux stick was hard to move but the main was louse. It ended up that there was so much crud built up around where the shifter moved that it was always hard to move. took alot of lube and movement to get it louse again. I did this all with the floor boards out of the cab. It was a PITA but it was better after a few hours of moving them. all the macks I drove were a little stiff in the cold and once warm they were back to normal. Also if the shift rails are not getting splashed lube it will just compound the issues. the oil needs to get thin and warm to properly lube them. if water got in the trans it will just make a mucky mess of the rails and dirt will stick to them. Only other thing could be that the shift rail is bent? or the shaft that the gears slide on are bent or was overheated. all of wich needs a tear down to inspect.. trent

I think the steering wheel is on the wrong side??? LOL!!!! Nice rig there. Looks like it can do what it was built for! Whats the cap on the roof top? is that for added head room and storage? The R cabs are small for todays standards and I have never seen a roof like that before!?

a true American. you dont hear storys like this anymore....

yea... was wondering the other day where he was at???

the old trucks are of the K.I.S.S rule and developing countires see this. Its sad to see them leave but its better to see them Sell to a usefull owner than to rust away to nothing or get scrapped...I think that Red R700 was on ebay last week?

This is what I do... Reply to topic... Chouse file...( searchl your computer for file ) Attach this file.... Then repete if I want to add more pics

looks like an full gauge package and interior package.My RS700L is a 206" WB and I can get a 2' tool box between the back of the 126 gal tanks and fenders. yours looks right about what mine is sitting at. by the way....What exactly was the freedom Edition? I thought they were like the magnums with the big E9s???. seen many but never asked...

If your trying to do it on the cheap..have some brackets removed from a old junk r model. They should fit the b model axels and mount the cans away from the drums/rims. Or fab up brackets that will hold the cans outward . You will need offset slack adjusters or longer s cams.

Looking good!!!!. Any interior shots?.. specs?...looks like a 200-206" wb ?

THATS GREAT NEWS ! GLAD YOU GUYS WORKED OUT A DEAL....