Lmackattack

I liked the old way. IIRC it was 10 on 8 off and no more than X amount of Hrs in a 6 or 7 day period before you needed a full days rest. Last thing we need is more BS and complacation

I will have to get a pic tomorrow of my dash. I have all my dash gauges back lit with green LED bulbs. Looks pretty slick at night.

Only one strap? Where is the DOT when you need him!

I know at work the air ride trailer has a regulator valve for the bags and I think it says not more than 40psi? But it all depends on the size of the air bag and what it needs to lift. I agree that 75 psi sounds kinda high.

dont you just love electricl problems!!!!

the concave rear wall was for the nose of a trailer. It gave a tighter Bumper to back of cab (BBC) and thus a longer trailer could be pulled. it was all about length laws back then. the dog house is what is used to cover the rear part of the engine if it protrudes into the cab. Chevy/ford vans have the center consol or "Dog house" that can be removed to access the rear of the engine for maintance. that little box on the floor under the seat was for the series/parallel switch. used for the 12volt run/24 volt starting electrical system the B613 should have a "standard" B model cab. for got to add that some B models also used the L model cab. more commonly found out west. Trent

I looked at the pics in your profile and if thats the crack in the rails....that dont look good. sorry to say. Looks like you broke both frame rails in the same spot. thats the worst of the worst. All thats really holding it is the 3rd inner channel. And yea when it lets go that side of the truck will likely sag pretty hard if your loaded. Personaly I would not drive that truck other than on site. and I have been known to be a risk taker....At a minimum you should replace the outter rail but at that rate you might as well replace both while in there. You can jerry rig it to get by for a little bit but it needs attention. The biggest issue I see is that both cracks are in the same spot. the 2 weak spots are in the same location and that 3rd channel is basicly doing all the work. I have seen a few cracked frames that held up just fine in a tractor but they had a inner channel that ran past the crack to the first crossmember on each side of the crack. When I have seen double frames crack it was either the inner or outer rail. not both. If you only had one rail crack you would get by with a good welder and a added "3rd" inner channel ran to the nearest crossmembers each side of the weld. just my .02 Trent

Good Idea to check there. some cabs will differ depending on the model here are a few common diffrences concave rear wall. Diffrent floor hight Dog house in cab firewall also the cowl aera on the passenger side may have some diffrences due to air cleaner mounting and ducting of the air.

it all depends on the type of 5th wheel you have. Do you know what model 5th wheel it is? My Fontain no slack does not have jaws. it simply has a bar that slides in behind and a wedgethat follows it to keep presser on the back of the pin. Others use Jaws that grab from each side. Most of the trucks I drove you could never see the king pin when hitched. If you did see the king pin it was thru a 1/4" gap in the jaws. I have also seen plates that had a "C" cut out of 1" steel that would swing around and grab the pin from the backside. Give us a pic of the wheel and we may shed a little more on what it is. Regarding the bolt that sticks out from the front...If its the style plate I think it is.... That should be your adjustment bolt. When unhooked that bolt is sticking out about 5" in front of the plate. then when you hook to a trailer you should see it pulled in and resting up against the plate. If you back into a trailer and can see that the bolt is not against the plate thats a sign that it did not fully latch. But again lets see the 5th wheel and we could note what it is and how it latches Trent

yep and every truck may be a little diffrent. Lucky for me all the dump trailers I pulled leaked a little hyd fluid and made that 5th wheel nice and slick. One thing on my Fontain "no slack" is the release handel has a "Stop" rod along its bottom part of the shaft. If pulled straight out it will hit the bottom backside of the hole that the rod comes thru and stop its outward movement. So you have to put some upward motion into the pull to release the pin.Its kinda a fail safe design. even if the jaws did not lock the trailer fully the release shaft will stop when the rod hits the stop plate and hold the jaw mostly closed so the trailer cant come off. I only found that out after trying to pull the "stop" rod thru 3/4" steel for about 10 mins LOL!!

Some old PB blaster will help get that lube into the places that thicker grease wont. Spray it on the under side to get the jaws,springs,bushings and other locking parts lubed. My wheel was dry when I got the truck and it needed some grease to move freely. Also look at the king pin plate to make sure the trailer is not the cause. seen a few old trailers that were well rusted around the plate. the king pin was pushed upward a little and it was trying to pull up on the 5th wheel/jaws.

I think watts mack has the heater ducts for sale.

Yea. push back on the trailer before you get out to try to pull the handel. if its still tight set the trailer brakes and push on the trailer then let the truck come to a rest with "slack" in the fith wheel. if the wheel is tight find someone to pull the pin while rocking back and forth. then put lost of grease in it for the next time

Drove a few 427s and I know what you mean with the no power down low,power at the top 200 RPM, then you have to shift and it falls on its face again. Truck will accel but you just cant feel any powerband. Never liked that engine.

That mack is known as a DMM. Its an all wheel drive model. lots of them with 3 sticks in the cab. I remember down in FL there was a fleet of dark Blue and white DMMs real clean looking cement trucks. they are a beast. look at the filler panels on the fenders

Just got off the phone with a friend. He knows the past and current owener of the superliner I just went to look at.Said its not the same owners of the RS But he remberes the RS700L from 25-30 years ago. He discribed it to the "T". Said he saw it many of times running up and down RT12 near Round lake IL. He Does not know where it went or the owner but said he will ask around as its kinda a small town around here. Trent

Just went over and looked. This was an early 80s superliner 1 has a simmalar paint job but it has the name Bonke on the door. its red with tan or white stripes. I think a local contruction friend asked me once if my RS was owned by that guy. I called him but no answer. he is older than me and may have some info on the guy? Trent

Rob had mentiond he saw this truck in a Mag but it had a smaller sleeper on it. I think He Stretched the truck for the larger sleeper. I will take a ride over to where I think he parkes his superliner??? its a few miles away. WIll check the name on the door. It hasent moved in 6 years. Its red but has a simmilar paint job...back in 20 mins~!!!!!

I live in Round lake IL..................

Mark, there was a guy up my way that had a RS700 like that. He sold it for a superliner. I think ROb knows about that truck?. this one looks simmilar to the one he knows about...Im sure he will see this thread and can comment........

THAT BLACK ONE IS MY STYLE!. I think the first red one could louse alot of the little crome bits and it would look nice. the interior is also a little overdone but again you can see that they made it into a show truck. If I hade one that flashy I would not want to get it dirty in the mud. EDIT!!!!! wait wait wait... Do I spy a pete frame under that black one?????

MY thoughts are that anything that upgrades the truck to ride and last longer is ok. Im not big into putting a old mack on a new pete frame but a old mack onto a new mack frame is ok. Air ride will not only help with the ride but it puts less stress on the truck. air bags take alot of shock out of everthing from axels,frame to the cab. I upgraded the interior of MY RS so that it has more comfort and style. Nothing wrong with the old cab but it was just plane,noisy and cold. I think it looks and feels personalized to my style.I also will be adding a air ride cab for both the comfort and reduced shock of the cab. It may not be Factory but if done right it can "look the part" Trent

yea the new electronic engines seam to start very easy in cold weather. So long as they still have good compression. The company 3406E has always started here in this cold chicago winter weather. I plug it in when I know I need to start it but some times we just need it moved and she always fires after no more than 5 sec of cranking. I fired up a superliner with E9 this morning and was suprised she took off running smooth after just 3-4 sec or cranking. the engine was rebuilt recently tho...

I have used WD40. Always had to remove the fileters tho. It works almost as good as either if you can get it to mist. Either in low doses works good. to much and it knocks way to hard. What I like to do with either on a hard starting engine is to spray it into the air system after the filter. Jump in the truck and crank the engine with the throttel stop out. as soon as the either lites push in the throttel stop and most times the engine will catch. This way you dont get a huge spray of either and fuel at the same time. I have found that if you flood the cold engine with fuel and either it wont want to lite. and if you over fuel and spray it..... when it does lite it takes off reving way to fast.

its possible that you have dirt or a clogged air line. it may take more time to fill the parking system or you have a slight leak? IIRC all the parking system does is push back on the springs to keep them released. There also may be a Anti Compounding valve? that may give you the same issue. I dont recall how that valve is plumbed but its used in alot of spring brake air systems