1958 F.W.D.

These parts are not exclusive to Mack. The ignition parts are most likely Delco-Remy, and any good (old-school) parts house can more than likely still get them. Spark Plugs- Champion or Autolite, check with any distributor, can most likely still get them, they are not rare by any means of the definition. The wire set you would probably have to make up by hand from a spool and new boots and clips. Brake hardware is more than likely all obtainable from a Bendix source. You'll have to take the drums, shoes and brake cylinders off and take to an old-school parts house that sells Bendix and match up casting numbers.

Western R-Models? You have my attention..........

You just got Run't over by the F.W.D. !!!!!!!

Ernie I'm not too religious, not a church-goin man but your son and your family will be in my thoughts on August 1.

Good luck trying to find an L or B with anything bigger than a 750. They are out there, with the bigger motors for the needed push for the bigger pump, but they are rare.

I have always hated the cold/snow/ice. I always said I would take 100 degrees and humid any day of the week and twice on sunday over snow and ice. That being said, many of you know I have lost about 135 pounds. Now that I have lost all my weight, I tolerate the heat much better now. But this past winter I damn near DIED. I lost all my "insulation." I hated the cold before. I FUCKING hate the cold now!!!!! if the temp drops below 35 I am wearing the long johns, two pairs of socks, a wooly hat, etc....If it gets below 10. I pull out the quilted shirts and the Carhartts!!!!!!!

I'M TELLIN!!!!!!!!!!!!

Carl, the FWD has a 15" single-plate Lipe-Brown clutch. I had it rebuilt by a 900-year old guy in a reputable clutch shop in Baltimore. Can't remember the name of the place but I could find it if you needed it. He might know what you speak of.

SCREW THE WINFALL WIMMIN I WANT THAT WESTERN R-MODEL WRECKER!!!!!!!!! ME SOW HOWNY!!!! ME LUV YOU LONG TIME!!!!!!!!!

Just an FYI- you can usually get straight 40W in one gallon bottle cases (three per case) cheaper through oil distributors that sell retail from their warehouses. Also sometimes I get mine from Penn Detroit Diesel/Allison in Philly so if you have a DD/A shop near you check there too.

Yes. The gentleman who owns the rig (and was driving) that cause the accident is a close friend of mine. We spoke at length this past Tuesday. I am not 100% sure how much is out there or who knows what- but out of respect for his privacy I am not going to say much other than to say it was a terrible accident, no one was injured, the parties involved are all working towards an amicable outcome as far as compensation for repairs and that the gentleman is upset. I will also add that he is very conscientious about maintenance and pre-trip inspections. The truck in question was pre-tripped on Friday, and was driven approx. 120 miles one way to the muster with absolutely positively no hint of trouble whatsoever.

My Daddy always said "Son a REAL ladder truck has two steerin' wheels......"

Can't you read? It's a fairy tale- it never happened. A figment of Yarnall's imagination. But if it really did happen, it might have been a Pemfab/Hamerly heavy rescue ex-Reading Pa & ex-Wilkes Barre Pa. that was sitting at Micro Fire Apparatus in Allentown Pa. Wasn't in too bad of shape either, not as much rot as one would have thought. Had a freshly rebuilt 8V71 and HT740. Went to the Schuykill County Fire Museum for what is reported to be a steal. But that's if it actually happened and not a figment of Yarnall's imagination.

OK all you 2-strokers out there. Had a question posed to me the other day. Apparently with all these new fangled low-sulfer fuels out there, people have been adding oils to 2-stroke fuel. The person posing the question said that he heard everything from ATF, to 30W or 40W oil, to true 2-stroke oil (I would giggle my ass off....) to 10W-30....The purpose of course is to lubricate the parts in older engines that benefited from the lubricating qualities of older diesel. Has anyone heard of doing this, and if so, what do you use and how much?? Ben? Tim? Anyone else??? Also, on a side note- if Yarnall comes in here telling some fairy tale about how I supposedly said last saturday that I would buy this firetruck (that we were discussing) for $2000 just to get the freshly rebuilt 8V71N alone (nevermind the rest of the truck) he must have been delirious that day- it was awfully sunny and hot and he didn't have a hat on and he didn't look like he was properly hydrating himself. Just thought everyone should know.

The FWD Corporation- Hellertown Pa. Field Headquarters is 32x26. I have a 22,000btu window unit. If I know I am going to be out there for an extended period of time, I'll go out there an hour ahead of time and turn it on. It doesn't cool the place off to arctic-like conditions, but it certainly drops the temps down to a tolerable level.

Leo??? My Dad and I used to catch a ride with the DC that was quartered there every now and then when I was a very young lad.

NO. This was tried by by Seagrave at some point, and it failed miserably. Not only is the true steering needed for navigating streets, but it is also useful for when you need to position the rig on a fireground for most efficient use of the aerial. A good driver and a good tillerman will get that rig into places a short wheelbase engine company could only dream of. Better to have the true directional steering so that everyone is on the same page without confusion. I know of at least two rigs built by Seagrave with the reversed gearing and they were converted back to true directional in a rapid orderly military manner.

Backing is easy if you remember to hold the wheel at the bottom and turn it in the direction you want the trailer to go in.

Carl, that version is completely dead wrong. I spoke to the owner of the WLF today and got it straight from the horses mouth. Call me tomorrow.

I have to rotate the air in the tires on the FWD that day.

Paul, the tillerman turns the wheel OPPOSITE the tractor's steer axle. The whole idea is to keep the trailer as straight/inline with the tractor as possible and when possible (sometimes articulation is needed like around a VERY sharp corner.) I was taught to pick a point on the tractor's cab- maybe a center antenna or a marker light and to keep the center of the tiller cab (the steer column) as close to that center point as possible. If the tractor is making a right hand turn, YOU TURN LEFT. This keeps the entire vehicle straight. The other thing that you have to do is to count your turns by 1/4ths. Every good tiller company has the wheel marked in some fashion with an arrow pointed straight up for "centered." When you make a turn, its always a good idea to announce in your head or out loud as you turn the wheel..."One fourth. One half. Three fourths....." and so on.....That way when it's time to recover (straighten the trailer steer axle back out as you finish the turn around a corner) you can recover backwards the same number of turns that you originally made by announcing in reverse the 1/4 turns you made- or else you could cause the trailer to dog-leg or crab track and wipe out cars or trucks parked or waiting on either side of you.

Ya think????? LMAO!!!!

Later today I learned that it was indeed the fully restored 1963 Ward Lafrance owned by a close friend of mine. I have not spoken to him, going to let things cool off for a few days and maybe call him later this week. It has hydro-vac juice brakes. Many rumors that he lost the brakes and rear-ended another rig.

What the heel is this "baler" and "hayin" crap you fine folks are discussing? LOL

Carl, if the information I received is correct, it is the WLF Fireball owned by a NJ gentleman who is a regular at the PPP muster. Souces state the accident was not his fault, that he was rear-ended.